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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 11:55:21 -0500 (EST)
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80-96-list Digest Thu, 11 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 009

In This Issue:
So...I need to Burp my truck eh?
idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose
Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose
Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose
Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose
New member with 2 questions
Re: New member with 2 questions
erratic engine higher rpms
Re: So...I need to Burp my truck eh?
Cyl Heads
Re: Cyl Heads
Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose
Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose
Speedometer Calibration
Message Order

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 08:18:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Chuck Badger <chuckbadger yahoo.com>
Subject: So...I need to Burp my truck eh?


Yes,  There is a way to burp the air out of your
cooling system.  Easiest way is to find the highest
point in the system and loosen the connection
slightly.  Ideally you would also have some pressure
on the system at the time to help push the air out.  A
lot of newer vehicles have a bleed point on the
thermostat housing.  I would try reversing the heater
hoses first, and if that does not work then loosen a
connection to bleed the air.  Let us know what comes
out.  :)

Chuck

--- Fred Moreno <fmoreno dualcurve.com> wrote:
> Chuck, Bob and of course "Uncle Les",
>
>  Thanks for the replies to my "Heater Woes" listing.
> Yesterday work had me
> so busy I did not have time to reply and so my
> appreciation.
>  This morning I did not that the coolant reservoir
> was low, so I added more
> 50/50 solution. Hmm I did this several times last
> week, must still be
> getting the air out. I even took a 400 miles trip
> (most using propane) and
> the coolant still indicated full after this trip, so
> I thought/assumed it
> was full.
>
>  I will keep monitoring the level of coolant, is
> there a method of "burping"
> your coolant system? That out to generate some
> creative replies.....No I'm
> not pouring beer into the radiator, not unless I get
> one first.
>
>  I like the idea of reversing the coolant hoses
> going into the heater core.
> Will see about that option this week-end.
>
>  Thanks to all,
>
>  Phred
>  1995 F-150 4X4 propane or gasoline fed 5.0L with a
> 5-speed and 204K miles.
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 11:50:33 -0600
From: "Justin Schick" <jschick aafp.org>
Subject: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose


Greetings all. I'm slowly eliminating the problems with my recently acquired F-150. The biggest one that is escaping me has to do with the idle rpm not staying constant. Here's the scenario, as best as I can describe it:

Cold start the engine and there are no apparent problems. Drives perfect until it warms up, with the needle on the temp gauge just about to sweep over the N in normal. From there, the rpm will slowly increase to the point that it's now roaring at idle in neutral. Driveability however isn't really affected. I have noticed that if I pump the brakes repeatedly it affects the idle, usually making it speed up. Also noticed that if I mash on the brake pedal and keep it depressed, usually the idle will slowly start to come down to normal speed.

What I've done to diagnose:

The timing is right, and everything around the carb (set screws, vacuum lines, electrical connections) looks to be in place. I put a vacuum gauge on the port over by the idle mixture screw, and get next to nothing at idle. But when I rev the engine, vacuum appears. I'm thinking the problem has to be related to the brakes with all of the pedal craziness that causes changes to the problem. Could a vacuum leak cause the rpm inconsistencies? The booster or whatever it's called behind the master cylinder does look a little rusted out... What's the consensus? Thanks in advance...

Justin
85 F-150 300 / 4 spd. / 4X4





------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 10:56:35 -0700


The fact that your brakes affect idle points to a vacuum leak or something
weird with the booster.  To test it, park the truck with the engine running
and get out.  Push the brake pedal down with your hand and turn the engine
off while maintaining pressure on the brake pedal.  If you feel the pedal
starting to push back harder and harder as time goes by (a few seconds),
then you have a leak in the booster.   On an old car I once had, I used a
junk yard booster for many years after replacing the old one.  This was
quite economical considering the price of a new one or a rebuilt one.

Chip

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Justin Schick [mailto:jschick aafp.org]
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 10:51 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose
>
>
>
> Greetings all. I'm slowly eliminating the problems with my
> recently acquired F-150. The biggest one that is escaping me
> has to do with the idle rpm not staying constant. Here's the
> scenario, as best as I can describe it:
>
> Cold start the engine and there are no apparent problems.
> Drives perfect until it warms up, with the needle on the temp
> gauge just about to sweep over the N in normal. From there,
> the rpm will slowly increase to the point that it's now
> roaring at idle in neutral. Driveability however isn't really
> affected. I have noticed that if I pump the brakes repeatedly
> it affects the idle, usually making it speed up. Also noticed
> that if I mash on the brake pedal and keep it depressed,
> usually the idle will slowly start to come down to normal speed.
>
> What I've done to diagnose:
>
> The timing is right, and everything around the carb (set
> screws, vacuum lines, electrical connections) looks to be in
> place. I put a vacuum gauge on the port over by the idle
> mixture screw, and get next to nothing at idle. But when I
> rev the engine, vacuum appears. I'm thinking the problem has
> to be related to the brakes with all of the pedal craziness
> that causes changes to the problem. Could a vacuum leak cause
> the rpm inconsistencies? The booster or whatever it's called
> behind the master cylinder does look a little rusted out...
> What's the consensus? Thanks in advance...
>
> Justin
> 85 F-150 300 / 4 spd. / 4X4
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 10:32:33 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn <slammer deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose


At 11:50 AM 1/11/2001 -0600, you wrote:
>The biggest one that is escaping me has to do with the idle rpm not
>staying constant. Here's the scenario, as best as I can describe it:

You might also want to check the codes to see if it is computer related.



Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1986 F150 six banger


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 12:44:45 -0600
From: "Justin Schick" <jschick aafp.org>
Subject: Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose


<<<You might also want to check the codes to see if it is computer related.>>>

Does the Chilton's (mine's at home) have the test procedure in it, or does anyone have any URLs handy? I haven't owned this truck long enough to become aquainted with its computer, but have pulled the codes on my 92 SHO (EEC-IV) using a piece of scrap wire while watching the CE light blink.

Justin
85 F-150 300 / 4 spd. / 4X4, along with a couple other Fords in my stable... =)


------------------------------

From: "Aaron Gordon" <agordon vt.edu>
Subject: New member with 2 questions
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 17:06:03 -0500


Hi Everyone,
   My name is Aaron and I have a 1995 F-150  4x2 standard cab long bed.
I've got a 302 V-8 and a 5 speed manual. I enjoy working on and souping up
vehicles. I am in college right now so I don't have a lot of cash, but I
still find cheap hop ups for my truck.

I have two questions for everyone.

1) My rear is not a positraction rear. I would like to upgrade to a
posi-rear. Does anyone know what a good way to do this would be?

2) I would like to run headers back to a dual exhaust system. Does anyone
know of a decent system avaiable that is emissions legal on the east coast?

Thanks,

Aaron


------------------------------

From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 19:08:12 EST
Subject: Re: New member with 2 questions


rear end= i have a auburn pro limited slip in my truck with a 4.10 love it,
would like it alot better if i had a computer program with the speed limiter
taken out decide how fast you want to go down the interstate before you
decide on gears. i like the auburn alot and you can find them all over the
net just have to do some research

emission legal headers and exhaust system is easy  <A
HREF="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/nlocsvt/svt.html">We've Moved...</A>go here it
is power surge performance this is the man Sal. talk to him he has full
bassini exhaust systems

i have a truck nearly like yours dont make mistakes take your time on mods
and "hop ups" u will regret it if you dont. do research ask around

luke

2-94's



------------------------------

From: Lingus0169 aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 20:47:28 EST
Subject: erratic engine higher rpms


Hi all,
For those who have been around for while, I am back, i swapped in a 351w into
a 85 f150 4x4 which had a 300 I-6. It was quite a project till i was all done
with everything,including changing 2 rears in 1 week.
But here is my problem.  i set my timing to 10* BTC, (its a high performance
engine 400hp). it idles smooth and as you depress the gas pedal gradually, it
stays smooth and sounds great untill i get to about 3K rpm's, fomr there on
if i keep giving it more gas gradually, it runs like hell. it seems like its
missing and the timing is thrown off, but everything is set right right,
timing,point gap in the distributer, the only thing i can think of is the
fuel mixture, but would that make it that erratic? thankx for your help in
advance
nick
85 f150 4x4 np208/t-18 dana 44/60 400hp 351w
also 89 f250 leaf sprung IFS ext cab 351w auto

------------------------------

From: "D.P. Whipkey" <cmrbison msn.com>
Subject: Re: So...I need to Burp my truck eh?
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 19:02:36 -0800


The problem is that when the cap opens up and forces out fluid, it also
draws in air as it cools.  That's what those overflow tanks are for.  The
heat forces fluid into the tank instead of on the pavement.  Then when the
engine cools, the fluid is drawn back into the radiator.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Badger" <chuckbadger yahoo.com>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 8:18 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] So...I need to Burp my truck eh?


>
> Yes,  There is a way to burp the air out of your
> cooling system.  Easiest way is to find the highest
> point in the system and loosen the connection
> slightly.  Ideally you would also have some pressure
> on the system at the time to help push the air out.  A
> lot of newer vehicles have a bleed point on the
> thermostat housing.  I would try reversing the heater
> hoses first, and if that does not work then loosen a
> connection to bleed the air.  Let us know what comes
> out.  :)
>
> Chuck
>
> --- Fred Moreno <fmoreno dualcurve.com> wrote:
> > Chuck, Bob and of course "Uncle Les",
> >
> >  Thanks for the replies to my "Heater Woes" listing.
> > Yesterday work had me
> > so busy I did not have time to reply and so my
> > appreciation.
> >  This morning I did not that the coolant reservoir
> > was low, so I added more
> > 50/50 solution. Hmm I did this several times last
> > week, must still be
> > getting the air out. I even took a 400 miles trip
> > (most using propane) and
> > the coolant still indicated full after this trip, so
> > I thought/assumed it
> > was full.
> >
> >  I will keep monitoring the level of coolant, is
> > there a method of "burping"
> > your coolant system? That out to generate some
> > creative replies.....No I'm
> > not pouring beer into the radiator, not unless I get
> > one first.
> >
> >  I like the idea of reversing the coolant hoses
> > going into the heater core.
> > Will see about that option this week-end.
> >
> >  Thanks to all,
> >
> >  Phred
> >  1995 F-150 4X4 propane or gasoline fed 5.0L with a
> > 5-speed and 204K miles.
> >
>
>
>



------------------------------

From: SOBFROGG webtv.net (Scott Mummery)
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 21:06:23 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Cyl Heads


Does anyone know if  cyl heads from an 82 302 can be used on a 95 351?
Somehow I cracked one of heads in the truck and I have a spare set of
heads from my last Mustang project. Also,  I have not opened the engine
yet does the 95 351 use flat tappets or rollers?
Thanks
Scott
1995 F150 SC 4X4  5.8L


------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:19:53 EST
Subject: Re: Cyl Heads

Scott,
That head will fit, but it does not have the emissions ports for the
crossover tube on the back of the head, and the valves may or may not be the
same size, which is something you need to take into consideration.


Better to be a racer for a moment, than a spectator for a lifetime
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
NLOC #484
2000 #4 Top Truck
1999 #2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html
ICQ#58060858



------------------------------

From: "Terence Underwood" <terenceu1 prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 06:57:18 -0600


Justin,

Here's the URL for EEC-IV diagnosis (computer codes):

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbroncos/tech/trouble.htm

Terence Underwood
terenceu1 prodigy.net

'95 Bronco EB/351W/E4OD/BW1356/8.8 3.55 open/tow pack.
'94 Probe GT/K&N cone/Dunlop SP5000/Redline lubed

-----Original Message-----
From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Justin Schick
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 12:45 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose



<<<You might also want to check the codes to see if it is computer
related.>>>

Does the Chilton's (mine's at home) have the test procedure in it, or does
anyone have any URLs handy? I haven't owned this truck long enough to become
aquainted with its computer, but have pulled the codes on my 92 SHO (EEC-IV)
using a piece of scrap wire while watching the CE light blink.

Justin
85 F-150 300 / 4 spd. / 4X4, along with a couple other Fords in my stable...
=)



------------------------------

From: "Terence Underwood" <terenceu1 prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 06:58:54 -0600


Justin,

OOPS!  URL I sent for EEC-IV codes are for '88-'95 only.

Terence Underwood
terenceu1 prodigy.net

'95 Bronco EB/351W/E4OD/BW1356/8.8 3.55 open/tow pack.
'94 Probe GT/K&N cone/Dunlop SP5000/Redline lubed

-----Original Message-----
From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Justin Schick
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 12:45 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: idle rpm fluctuations - please help diagnose



<<<You might also want to check the codes to see if it is computer
related.>>>

Does the Chilton's (mine's at home) have the test procedure in it, or does
anyone have any URLs handy? I haven't owned this truck long enough to become
aquainted with its computer, but have pulled the codes on my 92 SHO (EEC-IV)
using a piece of scrap wire while watching the CE light blink.

Justin
85 F-150 300 / 4 spd. / 4X4, along with a couple other Fords in my stable...
=)



------------------------------

From: rexbennett eibiz.net
Subject: Speedometer Calibration
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 08:17:14 -0600


I need to calibrate the speedometer in my 95 F150 for a different size tire
so I searched back through the archive and found the procedure and have a
couple of questions.

First, I can't seem to find the enable wire.  The directions I found says
"Locate the dealer mode programming enable single-terminal connector.  The
connector is located at the bottom of the instrument panel below the center
of the glove box. On all vehicles, the dealer mode enable wire is Circuit
567(LB/Y)."
Does this mean behind the instrument panel at the same height as the center
of the glove box or is it actually behind the glove box?  I looked both
places but haven't found it.

Second, I can't find Revolutions per mile information for my tires on the
web so I looked at the same size tire by different manufactures and found
that they list the same diameter but all list different revolutions per
mile.  If I calculate it I come up with different results from what they
list.  I think they are taking into account that the tires apparently change
diameter at speed??  I guess I'll just take an average of what I can find
and use that.

Here is the entire procedure, anyone done this and is there anything to look
for?

Rex

--------------------------------
1. DETERMINE THE "CONVERSION CONSTANT":

Number of tire revolutions per mile times 108, divided by 8000. Working out
all the constants

This calculation can be double-checked a couple of ways. First, measure the
existing tire height and apply the formula -- the result should be the
constant already in the speedo module. Also, the new conversion constant
should equal the old conversion constant times the ratio of the old/new tire
sizes:

New constant = Old constant x (effective radius of the old tire)/(effective
radius of the new tire).

2. RESET THE CONVERSION CONSTANT:

Note: The module can only be reprogrammed six times.

a. Locate the dealer mode programming enable single-terminal connector.
The connector is located at the bottom of the instrument panel below the
center of the glove box. On all vehicles, the dealer mode enable wire is
Circuit 567(LB/Y).

b. Insert a jumper wire or alligator clip in service wire and clip other
end to vehicle ground with the key in the OFF position.

c. Turn key to RUN while holding down the trip odometer RESET button on the
speedometer.

d. Release RESET button. The Speedometer will prove out (sweep across dial
and back). The English/Metric and revision levels will be displayed.

The last number of the display id the dealer mode lockout count. This
count shows the number of allowable conversion constant changes remaining.
When the count is zero (0), no additional changes can be made to this
instrument cluster. If a revision is required a service instrument cluster
must be ordered.

e. Press and release the RESET button again and the conversion constant
(without the decimal point) will be displayed followed by the word CAL.

f. Press and release the odometer SELECT button as many times as necessary
to change the conversion constant to the correct value.

Note: Pressing and releasing the RESET button to lock in the new
conversion constant reduces the number of times the module can be
reprogrammed by one count. If you change your mind and want to go back to
the old conversion constant, turn the key OFF BEFORE you lock in the new
constant.

g. When the new correct value is displayed in the odometer window, press
and release the RESET button to lock in the new conversion constant.

h. Turn the key OFF, disconnect the ground wire, and then check to see that
the speedometer works correctly.



------------------------------

From: rexbennett eibiz.net
Subject: Message Order
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:51:51 -0600 ....


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