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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 80-96-list); Wed, 21 Feb 2001 13:53:58 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 13:53:58 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: 80-96-list digest users <listar Reply-to: 80-96-list Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2001 #37 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1980-1996 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== Serious help maintaining your Ford truck! ---------------------------------------------------------- Check out the following items in our online store: -How to Build and Modify Ford Fuel-Injected 5.0 Liter V-8 Engines -How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Ford -Performance Modifying Ford Trucks -Ford Engine Overhaul Manual -Ford Windsor Small-Block Performance -Saddleman Seat Covers for 1992-1996 F150 - F450 Lariat <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/"> http://www.motorhaven.com/</a> ---------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Tue, 20 Feb 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 037 In This Issue: Re: AOD shift kits Installing Tach on 94 F-150 Re: What a mess - vacuum hose routing on '85 300 Re: Installing Tach on 94 F-150 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Vic Erwin <vic Subject: Re: AOD shift kits Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:27:52 -0800 (PST) Well, wasn't completely serious about the scratching gears part, it's mainly for tow. But wanted to show that a simple performance gain would be appreciated as well - gear head at heart. In addition to the B&M, Trans-Go, and Art Carr, there's also the Baumann kit. -Vic >>>>>>>>> the shift kit i got was the art carr shift kit and i love it throws second gear hard especially with a nicely tuned motor to supply power to it. with the shift kit alone i wasnt able to snatch second but with a little motor work i was barking second with partial to no throttle just cruising i love it but dont really like driving the race truck anymore too much to worry about on the road. not quite enough ------------------------------ From: Al Powell <powellae Subject: Installing Tach on 94 F-150 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 22:47:43 -0700 Bill asked: > I have a 94 F150, 300/six, 5 speed, 4x4. It's a LX model with no > options, but comes with five gauges (fuel, volts, oil and temp). > > I would like to add a vacuum gauge, ammeter, and tach, (all to sit > above the dash). I think I can figure out the ammeter, and the vacuum > gauge should be no problem, but I have *no*idea* how to hook up a tach to > a electronisized beast such as this one. Can anyone put it in simple > terms for me? Bill, this is an easy one. Most of the aftermarket tachs will work - they're set up for 4, 6 or 8 cylinders and have four leads: ignition, +12 volts, ground and a light dimmer. Just ask at the parts store to make sure you have one which works with a 6-cylinder. The directions included are generally clear and easy to follow - and it's a VERY easy job. I just added a tach to my 93 F-150 and the hardest part was running the wire from the ignition circuit connection (by the coil) into the cab. I decided to drill a hole through a plate above the gas pedal, then use silicone sealer to form a permanent gasket around the wire. Wiring is really easy - I put the ground next to the fusebox, and got the dimmer connection by pulling the fuse controlling the dimmer, shoving the wire into the socket, and holding it in by reinserting the fuse. Not elegant, but it works. I did the same for +12 volts. Some parts stores have small brass fittings which are designed to be inserted into the fuse socket with the fuse, and they leave a tab sticking out past the fuse head. Then one can attach a female spade-bit crimp-on connector to the wire, and press it onto the brass fitting. This would be preferable - I just haven't found the fittings yet. I mounted the tach on the plastic trim of the driver's side A-pillar. It's just above the dash and in easy line of sight. To cover the wires, I used a spiral wrap wiring loom material - and it fell neatly into a natural crease in the dash. It's just about invisible. I didn't want to make holes in the dash, and the line of sight is better where the tach is. I got one with a 2" face, which was big enough for my needs. One caution: this puts the tach directly in sunlight. inexpensive tachs sometimes work erratically when they get hot, but a good one won't. Save your receipt and warranty information so that if you experience tach problems in the summer, you can return the unit. I've BTDT and the second one worked OK. ************************************ Al Powell Fort Collins, CO powellae ************************************ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 00:13:58 -0800 Subject: Re: What a mess - vacuum hose routing on '85 300 I6 From: Joan and Walt Posluszny <redstone Justin, I'm looking at the Ford Books for the 1985 model year and see if this helps, if not give me specifics and I'll see if I can find what you need. Walt Vacuum lines under the hood go to : Heater Valve A/C Vacuum Canister Automatic Transmission (but you've got a stick) Speed Control Power Brake Booster MAP sensor Air Cleaner Thermostat Control Solenoids for the Air Thermactor system and the EGR Valve If Duraspark..... Distributor NOTE : EGR vacuum on 4.9 Liter. Carburetor->To EGR Solenoid->To EGR Valve > Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 11:45:29 -0600 > From: "Justin Schick" <jschick > Subject: What a mess - vacuum hose routing on '85 300 I6 > > > I only recently bought this truck, and am just getting into fixing the > problems I inherited. The nicest way I can put it is the previous owner loved > to turn wrenches, even if he didn't have a reason to. I've already reset the > distributor to get the timing right, and rebuilt the carb yesterday. I knew it > had no AC but when I actually looked, he's reomved that compressor along with > the air pump (but left the two valves under it). I removed them and plugged > the hole on the intake the big tube feeding them came from. > > I've got a Chiltons and compared its vacuum diagram to what's in my engine > bay. When I put the carb back on I easily rerouted the big vacuum hoses > feeding the PCV, brake booster and charcoal canister. Where I'm getting lost > is routing the smaller lines to what's left. Namely, the EGR valve and small > diaphram on the back right of the carb. I'm not for sure what should be run > from the block of 3 mounted underneath the carb, and the single port on the > carb next to the mixture screw. If anyone has any input to the matter it would > be greatly appreciated. > > Regards, > Justin Schick > 85 F-150 300 / 4 spd. / 4X4 > > ------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 07:35:13 -0600 From: "Justin Schick" <jschick Subject: Re: What a mess - vacuum hose routing on '85 300 Helps immensely, thank you very much! Question on the copied text below though. Would it matter where the line to the air cleaner originated from? I think it was originally off of the port at the base of the carb, next to the mixture screw. But am thinking I'd run it from the "vacuum tree" down below if I can. Thanks again, Justin <<<Air Cleaner Thermostat>>> ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson Subject: Re: Installing Tach on 94 F-150 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 11:51:51 -0800 Do you have a picture of yours? I have thought of adding one to my 94, but didn't think it would look good anywhere but in the dash panel. Garrett Nelson www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Al Powell To: '80-96-list Cc: 'bfw Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 9:47 PM Subject: [80-96-list] Installing Tach on 94 F-150 ---------------------------------------------------------- Support FTE - Check out our store: http://www.motorhaven.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------- Bill asked: > I have a 94 F150, 300/six, 5 speed, 4x4. It's a LX model with no > options, but comes with five gauges (fuel, volts, oil and temp). > > I would like to add a vacuum gauge, ammeter, and tach, (all to sit > above the dash). I think I can figure out the ammeter, and the vacuum > gauge should be no problem, but I have *no*idea* how to hook up a tach to > a electronisized beast such as this one. Can anyone put it in simple > terms for me? Bill, this is an easy one. Most of the aftermarket tachs will work - they're set up for 4, 6 or 8 cylinders and have four leads: ignition, +12 volts, ground and a light dimmer. Just ask at the parts store to make sure you have one which works with a 6-cylinder. The directions included are generally clear and easy to follow - and it's a VERY easy job. I just added a tach to my 93 F-150 and the hardest part was running the wire from the ignition circuit connection (by the coil) into the cab. I decided to drill a hole through a plate above the gas pedal, then use silicone sealer to form a permanent gasket around the wire. Wiring is really easy - I put the ground next to the fusebox, and got the dimmer connection by pulling the fuse controlling the dimmer, shoving the wire into the socket, and holding it in by reinserting the fuse. Not elegant, but it works. I did the same for +12 volts. Some parts stores have small brass fittings which are designed to be inserted into the fuse socket with the fuse, and they leave a tab sticking out past the fuse head. Then one can attach a female spade-bit crimp-on connector to the wire, and press it onto the brass fitting. This would be preferable - I just haven't found the fittings yet. I mounted the tach on the plastic trim of the driver's side A-pillar. It's just above the dash and in easy line of sight. To cover the wires, I used a spiral wrap wiring loom material - and it fell neatly into a natural crease in the dash. It's just about invisible. I didn't want to make holes in the dash, and the line of sight is better where the tach is. I got one with a 2" face, which was big enough for my needs. One caution: this puts the tach directly in sunlight. inexpensive tachs sometimes work erratically when they get hot, but a good one won't. Save your receipt and warranty information so that if you experience tach problems in the summer, you can return the unit. I've BTDT and the second one worked OK. ************************************ Al Powell Fort Collins, CO powellae ************************************ ------------------------------ End of 80-96-list Digest V2001 #37 ********************************** Serious help maintaining your Ford truck! ---------------------------------------------------------- Check out the following items in our online store: -How to Build and Modify Ford Fuel-Injected 5.0 Liter V-8 Engines -How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Ford -Performance Modifying Ford Trucks -Ford Engine Overhaul Manual -Ford Windsor Small-Block Performance -Saddleman Seat Covers for 1992-1996 F150 - F450 Lariat <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/"> http://www.motorhaven.com/</a> ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1980-1996 Truck Mailing List .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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