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Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 17:05:40 -0500 (EST)
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80-96-list Digest Wed, 03 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 003

In This Issue:
parts for sale
my apologies
Power window troubleshooting?
Subject: Re: Sum question/swap stuff
Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4
Re: Subject: Re: Sum question/swap stuff
Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4
Underdrive Good?
Carbed 460 into 86 F250
Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4
Which wheels will fit

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 18:17:58 EST
Subject: parts for sale


alright boys here is some parts that i no longer need and thought someone out
there might be able to use.

-2-upper and lower 5.0 truck intakes- 60$ each
-set of E7 heads off a 5.0-90$ takes them

-306 engine block(have pistons and rods but not assembled, the pistons are
9.5 to 1 compression trw)-300$ for block 300$ for pistons or 550$ for block,
pistons, rods
-set of 289 heads with 1.60 1.90 values-375$
-gt40 upper and lower intake(lower intake needs machine work has a hole in
the number 1 port, minor about the diameter of a bic pen)-250$
-70mm bbk edel throttle body for gt 40-180$(brand new)
-WILL TAKE 1000$ for whole motor unassembled

i think the prices are fair as to that is close to what i purchased them for
i paid 1400 for the 306 motor.

i also have a dark blue 94 f150 with 121,000 miles with a 351 brand new
everything hi perf motor, 3700 invested in motor.  i cant figure out the
problem with the truck cant keep it running and do not have the money to
figure it out will sell for 7000$ i think this is fair.  to my knowledge all
it needs is some custom computer work, for the computer is set to run a 302
not a 351.  here is the deal on parts of the motor and truck

-world senior heads brand new with 1.60 2.02 values
-edelbrock upper and lower intaker FI performer(brand new)
-stock throttle body
-stock brand new from chuck clancey ford 351 windsor short block
-new from oil pan to intake
-70mm mass air(new)
-cone k&n
-black magic electric fan(awesom)
-auburn posi diff with ford motorsport 4.10 gears in it
-lowered 2" in rear, stock in front
-custom dual exhaust comin off of hooker long tubes wirh 2 1/2" alum pipes
with single chamber flowmasters
-cd player- no stock speakers all aftermarket, pioneer and kenwood
-weld draglights with firestones on the front and bfg street drags on the
back used 4 times no burn outs just hazed
-motor was never raced(tires where used to race on the old 302 motor)
-class 3 trailer hitch
-needs minor paint work( which in this case means i was taking all the chrome
off to go monochrome)
-AODE/4R70W with art carr shift kit put u in you seat will bark second rebuilt
-blue on blue truck reg cab sliding rear window XLT lariat power locks and
windows A/C you know all the lariat stuff !
-bench seat

this is a long email and do apologize for it but this was my baby but im goin
back to school and must part with it

thanks '

luke welden

------------------------------

From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 18:33:57 EST
Subject: my apologies


the correct price for the truck is 8500 i was thinking of my 94 wh ext cab
when i quoted 7000 lot o miles

luke

------------------------------

From: "Jerry Godsey" <godzilla51 prodigy.net>
Subject: Power window troubleshooting?
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 16:26:15 -0800


Is there a foolproof way to tell if I have to replace my power window lifts?
Both of mine have stopped working in my 88 F-150 XLT.
I have seen gear replacement kits for sale.  Do the gears go bad on these
motors? Both sides run, they will lower the window, just not raise it back
up.  You can hear the motor running, but nothing happens.
Any help would be appreciated.
Blessings,
Jerry Godsey
www.geocities.com/view_from_pew
88 F-150
95 Aerostar
89 Escort GT
66 VW Beetle
Imperial, CA


------------------------------

From: "Jared Templin" <jtemplin21 hotmail.com>
Subject: Subject: Re: Sum question/swap stuff
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 20:46:40 -0800


So what did the dana 60 5 lug front come in stock?  I didn't know they made
those.  Yea those wheels are probably good and with the money in that rear
axle I wouldn't get rid of it either....lucky you didn't buy it the first
time.  Anyway do you have to modify the frame up front to accept leaf
springs if that is what you are doing?  I assume the lift is staying at
about 6 inches on the suspension?

Later,
Jared
BTW.....my wife actually thinks that scouts and early broncos are cool...and
wouldn't mind having either some day.  Your scout probably isn't stock
either I am assuming.

snip---------------
Heya Jared

Nah I ahve to keep the Dana 60 5 lug floater rear... it matches my 5 lug
front Dana 60 ;-)
Ta think the length one will go to run those nice beadlok wheels
eh?.LMAO

Norm
who btw has not broke squat since I started driving a Scout!
wohooooooo (IH-Motorsports) "Fastest Scout in Wisconsin"

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: "Rex Bennett" <rexbennett eibiz.net>
Subject: Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 23:09:10 -0600


Well the c clip looking thing wasn't a problem it came right out and you
right the holes are slots.  After two homemade tools failed the third one
worked like a charm, here is a picture of it.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=949390&a=10754863

Rex

-----Original Message-----
From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Atkinson, Chip
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 2:38 PM
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4



If you can get the c-clip thing unbent, you might be able to take a long
punch and stick it in one of the holes and hit the side of the punch with a
hammer while holding one end in the nut and the other end in your hand or on
a jack stand or something.  If the torque isn't too high on this lock nut,
it might come free.

Are the "holes" actual holes, or slots?  On the Dana 50 that I have, the nut
is round but has 6 radial slots that my hub socket tool's pins engage.  If
you have slots, the precision of the diameter of the "hole" circle is not
critical.

If you can get the grease off of the nut to get a good look at it, you might
want to look through all your parts guy's special tools.  For me, their book
said one thing but the tool that was specified couldn't have worked.
Knowing what I was looking for, I was able to get the right one, which was
pretty different.

Another option would be to fabricate a tool.  If you could find a piece of
scrap pipe that was thick enough and the right diameter, you can drill some
holes in the end of the pipe in the right pattern/spacing and secure some
pins in the holes and use the tool to remove the wrench.  You could use
loctite if you don't have a torch.  For pins, you could use those gun nails
that are ultra-hard and grind the head and points off.  You'll likely want
to use hardened steel for the pins.

A third option that comes to mind is to get two long punches that will fit
into the holes.  Then take some scrap steel and some vice grips and clamp
the punches to the steel to make a squared off U with the tips of the
punches in the holes.  Then put a lever between the arms of the U and twist.
Just an idea.

Hope that helps.

Chip
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rex Bennett [mailto:rexbennett eibiz.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 12:51 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Spindle nut removal on 4x4
>
>
>
> All,
> I am in the process of replacing the auto hubs on my 95 F150
> with a set of
> Warn Premiums because one of them refuses to lock.  The
> problem is when I
> removed the existing Auto hubs I found two different hubs, I
> guess one of
> them has been replaced at one time.  One side has what I
> think of as the
> standard spindle nut setup with a nut, lock washer and a
> second nut. Each
> nut has four keyways in them and I have a tool to remove
> these nuts.  The
> problem is the other side has what looks like a single round
> nut with holes
> all the way around it and a modified looking C clip bent on
> one end to lock
> it in place.  I checked with the parts house I normally deal
> with and they
> don't have anything to remove it with.  I think I have to
> replace this nut
> with the standard type to use the Warn hubs so I just need to
> get it off
> without damaging anything else.  Does anyone know a good
> place to find this
> tool or a way to remove this nut without it?
>
> Thanks
> Rex
>
>



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 07:04:13 -0600
From: "EyEHATE-TTB'z" <dahorse jvlnet.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Sum question/swap stuff


Heya Jared.

The front Dana 60 is a custom done unit, started life as a 1988 F-350
axle. I then swapped the steering knuckles for sum 1979 vintage Chevy
steeering knuckles and spindles, then utilizing a set of custom wheel
hubs and rotors from dyna trac....and sum custom caliper brakets, we now
have a 5 lug Dana 60...also while we were at it I upgraded to the
1.5inch 35 spline outer axle shafts as well. All this to run a set of
Champion beadlocks LOL

And I will be using front coils for the swap...and a 5 link.

As for the Scout... it is a 1976 Terra with a 1970 455 W-30
olds/TH400/Dana20 combo.
Runs a Meyers 8ft hydoturn,32in rubber and more rust that you can
possibly imagine! But is a blast to drive. plows snow like a truck
possed, and will mess with the 5.0 stang guys at a street light quite
handily!

Norm


Jared Templin wrote:
>
> So what did the dana 60 5 lug front come in stock?  I didn't know they made
> those.  Yea those wheels are probably good and with the money in that rear
> axle I wouldn't get rid of it either....lucky you didn't buy it the first
> time.  Anyway do you have to modify the frame up front to accept leaf
> springs if that is what you are doing?  I assume the lift is staying at
> about 6 inches on the suspension?
>
> Later,
> Jared

------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 08:40:15 -0700


Pretty slick.  I've seen tools like the one you used somewhere before... :-)

I can see why you had such trouble with home made tools.  Weird that the
slots are on the _inside_, right through the threads.  Kind of like a
self-tapping nut.  I'd really hate to cross those threads.

Chip

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rex Bennett [mailto:rexbennett eibiz.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 10:09 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4
>
>
>
> Well the c clip looking thing wasn't a problem it came right
> out and you
> right the holes are slots.  After two homemade tools failed
> the third one
> worked like a charm, here is a picture of it.
>  http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=949390&a=10754863
>
> Rex
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Atkinson, Chip
> Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 2:38 PM
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4
>
>
>
> If you can get the c-clip thing unbent, you might be able to
> take a long
> punch and stick it in one of the holes and hit the side of
> the punch with a
> hammer while holding one end in the nut and the other end in
> your hand or on
> a jack stand or something.  If the torque isn't too high on
> this lock nut,
> it might come free.
>
> Are the "holes" actual holes, or slots?  On the Dana 50 that
> I have, the nut
> is round but has 6 radial slots that my hub socket tool's
> pins engage.  If
> you have slots, the precision of the diameter of the "hole"
> circle is not
> critical.
>
> If you can get the grease off of the nut to get a good look
> at it, you might
> want to look through all your parts guy's special tools.  For
> me, their book
> said one thing but the tool that was specified couldn't have worked.
> Knowing what I was looking for, I was able to get the right
> one, which was
> pretty different.
>
> Another option would be to fabricate a tool.  If you could
> find a piece of
> scrap pipe that was thick enough and the right diameter, you
> can drill some
> holes in the end of the pipe in the right pattern/spacing and
> secure some
> pins in the holes and use the tool to remove the wrench.  You
> could use
> loctite if you don't have a torch.  For pins, you could use
> those gun nails
> that are ultra-hard and grind the head and points off.
> You'll likely want
> to use hardened steel for the pins.
>
> A third option that comes to mind is to get two long punches
> that will fit
> into the holes.  Then take some scrap steel and some vice
> grips and clamp
> the punches to the steel to make a squared off U with the tips of the
> punches in the holes.  Then put a lever between the arms of
> the U and twist.
> Just an idea.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Chip
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rex Bennett [mailto:rexbennett eibiz.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 12:51 PM
> > To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: [80-96-list] Spindle nut removal on 4x4
> >
> >
> >
> > All,
> > I am in the process of replacing the auto hubs on my 95 F150
> > with a set of
> > Warn Premiums because one of them refuses to lock.  The
> > problem is when I
> > removed the existing Auto hubs I found two different hubs, I
> > guess one of
> > them has been replaced at one time.  One side has what I
> > think of as the
> > standard spindle nut setup with a nut, lock washer and a
> > second nut. Each
> > nut has four keyways in them and I have a tool to remove
> > these nuts.  The
> > problem is the other side has what looks like a single round
> > nut with holes
> > all the way around it and a modified looking C clip bent on
> > one end to lock
> > it in place.  I checked with the parts house I normally deal
> > with and they
> > don't have anything to remove it with.  I think I have to
> > replace this nut
> > with the standard type to use the Warn hubs so I just need to
> > get it off
> > without damaging anything else.  Does anyone know a good
> > place to find this
> > tool or a way to remove this nut without it?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Rex
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Perkins, Jim (Spokane)" <Jim.Perkins getronics.com>
Subject: Underdrive Good?
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:20:26 -0500


Do any of you have experience using an aftermarket underdrive unit,
particularly with an electronic transmission?  I'd love to improve the
fun/towing capabilities of my truck [OK, mostly fun :-)] and an underdrive
seems like a very practical way to do it, although I wish they were cheaper.
The one I'm most interested in (from US Gear) would effectively give me a
4.44 rear end when I want it, but I get to keep my current 3.55s for highway
use.  I figure this would not only be a lot more fun to drive around town,
but would give me some much needed fill in gears for when I tow,
particularly that long gap between second and third.  All while keeping my
truck otherwise pretty stock and presumably not affecting my gas mileage
much.

Anybody ever done this that can give me the benefit of their experience?
I'm particularly interested in how the E4OD will react to the changed ratios
and whether it will do anything (like changing shift points) that might
limit the value of the underdrive unit.

Jim Perkins
'91 F150 351 E4OD 4X4
Spokane, WA



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:53:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Underdrive Good?
From: Chris Hinckley <chink28 juno.com>


I just ordered a Klune-V gear reduction crawl unit for my 92 bronco with
an e4od. I have no experience with it as of yet though.


Chris Hinckley
00 - TD Excursion
95 - F150 Ext. Cab 4x4
92 - Bronco Stroked - Mass Air Conversion w/GT40 - Lifted and Locked
73 - Bronco (project trail beast)

On Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:20:26 -0500 "Perkins, Jim (Spokane)"
<Jim.Perkins getronics.com> writes:
>
> Do any of you have experience using an aftermarket underdrive unit,
> particularly with an electronic transmission?  I'd love to improve
> the
> fun/towing capabilities of my truck [OK, mostly fun :-)] and an
> underdrive
> seems like a very practical way to do it, although I wish they were
> cheaper.
> The one I'm most interested in (from US Gear) would effectively give
> me a
> 4.44 rear end when I want it, but I get to keep my current 3.55s for
> highway
> use.  I figure this would not only be a lot more fun to drive around
> town,
> but would give me some much needed fill in gears for when I tow,
> particularly that long gap between second and third.  All while
> keeping my
> truck otherwise pretty stock and presumably not affecting my gas
> mileage
> much.
>
> Anybody ever done this that can give me the benefit of their
> experience?
> I'm particularly interested in how the E4OD will react to the
> changed ratios
> and whether it will do anything (like changing shift points) that
> might
> limit the value of the underdrive unit.
>
> Jim Perkins
> '91 F150 351 E4OD 4X4
> Spokane, WA
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 11:04:59 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp <Larry.Schmiedekamp angelo.edu>
Subject: Carbed 460 into 86 F250


My son-in-law has a late 70's model 460 that he wants to put in his 86 F250
which has a blown 351 FI. Is there a wiring digram or someone who can input
on how to wire this setup avoiding the computer.

Thanks in advance.

Larry


------------------------------

From: "Rex Bennett" <rexbennett eibiz.net>
Subject: Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:19:04 -0600


It was made almost like a thread die, I have never seen one like it.  From
looking at the instructions with the new hubs I think it was a Warn
replacement auto locking hub.

Rex

-----Original Message-----
From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Atkinson, Chip
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 9:40 AM
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4



Pretty slick.  I've seen tools like the one you used somewhere before... :-)

I can see why you had such trouble with home made tools.  Weird that the
slots are on the _inside_, right through the threads.  Kind of like a
self-tapping nut.  I'd really hate to cross those threads.

Chip



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 13:02:33 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn <slammer ....

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