Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 80-96-list); Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:28:33 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:28:33 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2001 #21
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Mon, 29 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 021

In This Issue:
Re: Way too rich
Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc
Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc
Re: Pulling with an F-150
Re: both headlamps burn out at once!
Re: both headlamps burn out at once!
Re: Pulling with an F-150 & compensating for altitude
Pubs and Idel

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 22:28:54 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki <blake little-mountain.com>
Subject: Re: Way too rich


>Blake:
>
>I think you found the culprit here.  Probably the fuel regulator diaphragm
>has split, letting pressure go way high AND letting fuel into the vacuum line
>further compounding the problem.
>Let us know the results after replacing fuel pressure regulator.
>
>-Steve

Thank you Steve. I replaced the regulator tonight and held the old one up
and gasoline ran right through it and out the vacuum port. So I would say
it is bad!

Had to pull all the plugs and turn the engine over to blow the fuel out.
Then cleaned all the plugs with the propane torch and put them back in. It
was pretty hard to start since it was flooded so bad, but seems to be fine.
A miss now and then on one cylinder, but that is probably a plug still wet.
I will drive it to work tonight and if that does not clear up, I will pull
the plugs in the morning and find the the culprit.

Blake

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."



------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 23:14:43 -0500

> I am not having any luck removing the front wheel bearing nuts
> from my 81 4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel
> Bearing Spanner ' and cannot source one from anywhere, I have
>  had to try and tap it round with a screwdriver and hammer with
> no success.  Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the
> nuts off ???

Yes ... There is a special "socket" that you can buy at most
auto parts stores.  I bought mine at Advance Auto Parts back
when it was called Parts America.  Ask at the counter for
"The tool for removing wheel bearing nuts from 1/2 ton 4x4
front axles".  Most good knowledgeable parts counter people
will know what tool you are looking for.





------------------------------

From: rexbennett eibiz.net
Subject: Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:29:58 -0600


I'm not sure about an 81 but on the later model trucks this depends on what
type of hub the truck uses.  If it has the manual hubs or the auto hubs with
the five bolt cover then you should be able to pick up a tool at most any
parts house.  It will look like a piece of pipe with four square tabs on the
end of it.  On the later model trucks like my 95 if it has the auto hub with
the three bolt cover then it uses a special nut that I couldn't find a tool
for, even talked to the local Ford dealer and they didn't know what I was
talking about but then again they aren't usually helpful.  I had one of each
type auto hub on my 95 and ended up cutting this special nut off with a
chisel.  I was replacing the hubs with a set of Warn's and this nut had to
be replaced anyway because it will not work with manual hubs.

Hope this helps.

By the way if it has the one piece self locking nut that is normally used
with the manual hubs then you really don't have a choice but to get the
proper tool because it has a locking ring inside of it that has to be
depressed to release the nut.

Rex

-----Original Message-----
From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Serian
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 10:15 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Cc: johnw illawarramercury.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from
4x4 Bronco


> I am not having any luck removing the front wheel bearing nuts
> from my 81 4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel
> Bearing Spanner ' and cannot source one from anywhere, I have
>  had to try and tap it round with a screwdriver and hammer with
> no success.  Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the
> nuts off ???

Yes ... There is a special "socket" that you can buy at most
auto parts stores.  I bought mine at Advance Auto Parts back
when it was called Parts America.  Ask at the counter for
"The tool for removing wheel bearing nuts from 1/2 ton 4x4
front axles".  Most good knowledgeable parts counter people
will know what tool you are looking for.







------------------------------

From: "Perkins, Jim (Spokane)" <Jim.Perkins getronics.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling with an F-150
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 11:47:37 -0500


Walt,

I don't know if your message was intended as flame bait, but I just can't
let it go by.

Towing a 3000 pound trailer (2000 pound car on trailer) is well within the
limits of a properly set up F150.  My truck is factory rated to tow up to
7500 pounds and I used to regularly tow 5000+ with it here in the
mountainous terrain of eastern Washington and north Idaho.  The newer F150s
are factory rated for up to 8800 pounds of trailer when properly equipped.

I do agree that Aaron's particular truck is not well suited for towing with
that Mazda 5 speed and the tall rear end gears and almost certainly no
trailer tow package.  I would guess if he checks the factory recommendation
for his truck (which should be listed in his owner's manual) he will find
that it is 2000 pounds or thereabouts.  As you say, he can tow more than
recommended by Ford, but it's not a great idea.  But that's a long way from
saying you can't safely tow a 3000 pound trailer with an F150.

Aaron - the weak spot you haven't addressed in your list of changes is the
transmission.  The problem you've got is that I understand that tranny is
weak to start with and you don't have any way to cool it since it's a stick.
If you're planning to do a lot of towing you'd almost certainly be happier
in the long run to simply trade your truck in for one that is better
equipped for towing.  You don't say what year your truck is, but given the
equipment list I'm guessing somewhere between '87 and '96.  In that range of
years I'd recommend a 351 (Much better low end grunt than your 302) and an
automatic which came factory equipped with a trailer tow package.  You can
also decide at that time whether you want to go from an F150 to an F250 as
recommended by Walt.  There are certainly good arguments on both sides of
that decision.  That setup should easily handle the kind of loads you're
talking about as long as you maintain it properly.  Around here at least,
you could very easily move from your truck to one like that for way less
than an additional $5K.  On the other hand, if you're only talking about
short trips with that trailer, then I might be tempted to simply change the
rear end (pretty cheap since you don't have 4X4) and make sure I have a good
weight distributing hitch, quality trailer, and properly working trailer
brakes.  With that, about your only risk is losing that transmission,
assuming you know how to drive with a trailer on.

Just my 2 cents.

Jim Perkins
'91 F-150 4X4 SC 351 E4OD 3.55LS
Spokane, WA


-----Original Message-----
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 11:32:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Pulling with an F-150
From: Joan and Walt Posluszny <redstone home.com>


Aaron,

Ford fervently recommends against this type of towing with a 150.  I know
because I have looked into it.  They recommend a 250 or better for long term
hauling.  The chassis is stronger, brakes are bigger, differential is
stronger, transmissions are heavier duty, etc.....  for longevity reasons.

Not that people haven't done it, it is not recommended....like not driving
on Firestone Wildness AT's overloaded with weight and 24 psi in your
tires....it's just a recommendation.

Walt
>
> From: "Aaron Gordon" <agordon vt.edu>
> Subject: Pulling with an F-150
> Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 00:33:54 -0500
>
>
> I have an F-150 with a 5 liter V-8, mazda 5-speed, 3.10 non - lsd rear
axle,
> and a class III hitch. I am interested in towing a race car with it.
> Ultimately I would like to tow a 2000 lb car on a flat bed car carrier.
>
> What will I need to do to my truck to make it handle the load? I was
hoping
> to keep it under 5 grand.
>
> Here is what I thought about so far. Let me know what you think:
>
> trailer brake control
> vortec supercharger
> 4.10 LSD rear axle
> Some kind of suspension kit (I don't know what to get)
>
> Thanks,
> Aaron
>



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 09:16:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Wagner <bfw hh.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: both headlamps burn out at once!



Hi, this is a curious one, last night, I had both headlamps burn out at
around the same time.

My truck is a 1994 F150 4x4, and I replaced the battery on Saturday.
Basically, the old battery wasn't holding a charge in cold weather, and my
digital voltmeter was reading 14.85 volts when idling.  I figured that the
battery (which has been notorious in good weather and bad for not starting
after you leave the interior light on for even an hour, or the radio for
even 20 minutes) was the culprit.  The new battery was pre-charged when I
bought it.  I dropped it in and it's been working much better than the old
one.

For the last couple of weeks, the headlights have been taking turns going
off and on, but usually a thump to the headlight itself would fix the
bad connection and it would come on again.  I figured it was just a dirty
connection.

Last night (Monday), the left one was out.  Thumping didn't help, so I
pulled the bulb:  the low beam was burnt out.  Five minutes later, the
right one went too:  same problem.  I carry a spare, so I tried to put it
in, only to discover that I had brought a 9004 and I needed a 9007 before
it would fit.  Nice try, Bill.

Anyway, my brother was now late for the airport, so I drove all the way to
the airport and back using the highbeams (cheezing off, I am sure,
everyone in sight).  The high beams are both fine.

Is this just a coincidence, or do I have a deeper problem?  Should I check
the voltage at startup, looking for power surges?  As best I can remember,
both burnouts happened when I started the truck up.


Bill Wagner




------------------------------

From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 14:22:24 EST
Subject: Re: both headlamps burn out at once!

i would say that it was just coincidence seeing how both high beams are
working i bet it was just time for the lows to go since that is used the
most.

Luke Welden



------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno <fmoreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling with an F-150 & compensating for altitude
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 12:16:36 -0700

Greetings Fellow Ford Fans,

For What It's Worth, one way to compensate for altitude is to install a
turbo charger or supercharger. That will more than make up for the less
dense air you are encountering.
The down side of that option is that not everyone has an extra $2K laying
around just for that purpose.
On the bright side it's a lot cheaper than buying a new truck.
Just keep your foot out of it when you don't need it...yeah right!
 If I played the lottery, I would lean towards the turbo charger option
myself.

Phred
1995 F-150 4X4, propane or gasoline fed 5.0L with 5-speed and +206,000
miles.

------------------------------

From: ADCSRWS aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 18:24:15 EST
Subject: Pubs and Idel

I have two requests.
1) Does Helm Inc. Publications Division have a Web sit?
2) Can the cold idle RPM be reduced on an 86 F-150 EFI 5L engine?
Some back ground on #2:
When the truck was new the cold idle was about 1500 RPM. Now it's at 1900 RPM.
Not good. I would like to see about 1200 RPM.
Thanks in advance for any help with these problems.
Dick
Kent, WA.



------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2001 #21
**********************************

Serious help maintaining your Ford truck!
----------------------------------------------------------
Check out the following items in our online store:
-How to Build and Modify Ford Fuel-Injected 5.0 Liter V-8 Engines
-How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Ford
-Performance Modifying Ford Trucks
-Ford Engine Overhaul Manual
-Ford Windsor Small-Block Performance
-Saddleman Seat Covers for 1992-1996 F150 - F450 Lariat

<a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">
....


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