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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:14:21 -0500 (EST)
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80-96-list Digest Sun, 28 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 020

In This Issue:
TRUCK SHIMMY
Pulling Problems
Re: TRUCK SHIMMY
Re: Pulling with an F-150
Re: Way too rich
Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronco
Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4
Carburetor Icing

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ONION" <ONIONMAN mediaone.net>
Subject: TRUCK SHIMMY
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 21:32:58 -0500


Can anyone tell me where to get a copy of SBN98158 It seems that  it might
contain info about my shimmy problem
Onion


------------------------------

From: "Al Powell" <powellae home.com>
Subject: Pulling Problems
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 21:14:33 -0700


You asked:

From: LGRanch aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 14:56:42 EST
Subject: Re: Pulling with an F-150

Ok I don't understand it.. I have a big Bronco with a 5.0L and AOD. The rear
end is 3.55LSD. I can pull a 3000 lb trailer in the flat lands with no
problem. But if I start working in Colorado,,, forget it. I can't get the
rig
to get out of its own way. I have problems in the Blue Ridge Mtns. Even
northern New Hampshire is a challenge. Why does everyone else no problems.
What is wrong with my rig?????????

My answer:

My guess is altitude.  I moved from TX (640 ft) to Fort Collins, CO (5100
ft.)  MUCH less power, and there's not a think you can do about it - it's
just the physics of thinner air.  My F-150 has a 351 V8, and I can tell a
big difference at this altitude and when I travel to Oklahoma or Washington
state.  I don't know about northern New Hampshire, but I'm sure the Blue
Ridge altitude is over 3000 ft.  My F-150 will pull a 4,000 pound trailer
through the Rockies at 50 mph over the steepest grades on the Interstates,
but I may have my foot on the floor for 5-10 miles at a time to keep that
speed.  Can't quite see the gas gauge drop, but close.  I know the 5-liter
is a good engine, but there's not much substitute for cubic inches when
pulling heavy trailers at altitude.

The rear axle is a middling ratio - you could change the ratio and pay a
penalty for it every mile you drive - or possibly come up with a two-speed
rear axle (?), but I think it would be very expensive.  My guess is that if
you want to pull a 3,000 plus pound trailer through mountains, you'll need
to either get more power or gear down and slow down.  Unless you pull the
trailer a lot, I think I'd just slow down and live with it.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Al Powell
Fort Collins, CO
'58 Fiat 1200 Spyder
'83 Datsun 280 ZXT
'90 Audi 200
'90 Ford F-150
powellae home.com
---------------------------------------------------------------


------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 23:58:41 EST
Subject: Re: TRUCK SHIMMY

I am going to try to get that for you. It may take me a day or 2, but I will
post it in its entirety upon receipt.


Better to be a racer for a moment, than a spectator for a lifetime
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
NLOC #484
2000 #4 Top Truck
1999 #2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html
ICQ#58060858



------------------------------

From: "Mike Miller" <mikemilr blackfoot.net>
Subject: Re: Pulling with an F-150
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 22:47:12 -0700



----- Original Message -----
From: <LGRanch aol.com>
> >
> Already have the shorty headers. The problem with the exhaust has always
been
> the cat converter. I'm based in NY and I have to have the cat. I guess I
> could kludge flowmaster units and build a dual system..........., but talk
> about cost. Are you sure this will "do it"???

I am not sure this would "do it" - but it might be worth while talking to a
shop about their guess as to how much dual exhaust, at least 2 1/4 per side
would help.

mike miller


------------------------------

From: SASCHOCH aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 12:07:18 EST
Subject: Re: Way too rich


Blake:

I think you found the culprit here.  Probably the fuel regulator diaphragm
has split, letting pressure go way high AND letting fuel into the vacuum line
further compounding the problem.
Let us know the results after replacing fuel pressure regulator.

-Steve

> Checking the fuel pressure with the engine off, I get 48 psi, and it
>  immediately bleeds off when the key is turned off or the pump quits
>  pumping. But with it running, I get a whopping 75-80 psi, much higher than
>  the recommended maximum of 40 psi. So, is my fuel regulator the culprit?
>  After running these fuel tests, so much fuel occumulated in the cylinders
>  that the engine would not turn over (hydrolocked). I presume I will have to
>  pull all the plugs and blow the fuel out before I can even start the truck.
>
>  I would appreciate any advice... thanks.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 11:32:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Pulling with an F-150
From: Joan and Walt Posluszny <redstone home.com>


Aaron,

Ford fervently recommends against this type of towing with a 150.  I know
because I have looked into it.  They recommend a 250 or better for long term
hauling.  The chassis is stronger, brakes are bigger, differential is
stronger, transmissions are heavier duty, etc.....  for longevity reasons.

Not that people haven't done it, it is not recommended....like not driving
on Firestone Wildness AT's overloaded with weight and 24 psi in your
tires....it's just a recommendation.

Walt
>
> From: "Aaron Gordon" <agordon vt.edu>
> Subject: Pulling with an F-150
> Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 00:33:54 -0500
>
>
> I have an F-150 with a 5 liter V-8, mazda 5-speed, 3.10 non - lsd rear axle,
> and a class III hitch. I am interested in towing a race car with it.
> Ultimately I would like to tow a 2000 lb car on a flat bed car carrier.
>
> What will I need to do to my truck to make it handle the load? I was hoping
> to keep it under 5 grand.
>
> Here is what I thought about so far. Let me know what you think:
>
> trailer brake control
> vortec supercharger
> 4.10 LSD rear axle
> Some kind of suspension kit (I don't know what to get)
>
> Thanks,
> Aaron
>


------------------------------

From: "John Watson" <johnw illawarramercury.com>
Subject: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronco
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:29:22 +1100


I am not having any luck removing the front wheel bearing nuts from my 81
4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel Bearing Spanner ' and cannot
source one from anywhere, I have had to try and tap it round with a
screwdriver and hammer with no success.  Does anyone have any ideas on how
to get the nuts off ???



Thanks

John

>


------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 16:28:31 -0700


I think there are three approaches that I've seen on this list.  1) Find the
tool; 2) Make the tool; 3) Cut the nut off with a chisel.  1 & 2 allow
reassembly of the original parts.

I found the tool at the local parts place.  I was rather surprised that they
had it but they had several varietys of such tools.  This was a Carquest
shop.
You may be able to make one with a piece of pipe, drill, and hardened pins
to fit the slots of the nut(s).

Do you have a Dana 44 axle?  I think these required 150 ft-lbs of torque,
which would put it beyond the realm of screwdriver/hammer tappage.

Chip

> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Watson [mailto:johnw illawarramercury.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 4:29 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4
> Bronco
>
>
>
> I am not having any luck removing the front wheel bearing
> nuts from my 81
> 4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel Bearing
> Spanner ' and cannot
> source one from anywhere, I have had to try and tap it round with a
> screwdriver and hammer with no success.  Does anyone have any
> ideas on how
> to get the nuts off ???
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> >
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Sam Means" <smeans inetport.com>
Subject: Carburetor Icing
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 21:10:23 -0600


Previous post:

{ My 1983 F100 (302, 2v) suffers from a bad case of carb
icing for the first 4-8 minutes of operation only when the
temperature is around freezing and the humidity is high. }

I assume the 1983 air inlet setup is quite similar to that on my previous
1984 5.7 L . In the air inlet horn resides a spring-loaded metal butterfly
valve which closes when cold. The closed valve forces inlet air to be drawn
through a round cardboard-like tube from a metal shroud attached to the
passenger side exhaust manifold. Since the exhaust manifold warms quickly,
warm air is drawn into the carburetor to  prevent icing and hasten
carburetor warm-up.If any of these components are either missing or
non-functional, icing may occur.

There is also a temperature sensing vacuum switch inside the air cleaner.
When the sensor  reaches a prescribed temperature as a result of the heated
air, the vacuum switch opens to apply vacuum to a vacuum motor attached to
the butterfly valve .The butterfly valve  is then opened allowing outside
ambient air to be used. In cold weather conditions, the valve modulates
slowly to maintain sufficiently warm air to prevent icing and also to help
prevent the choke thermostat from cooling to the point of closing the choke.

I found also that a vacuum leak in the power brake booster diaphragm could
mimic carburetor icing under cold damp conditions, even with the above
apparatus working properly. Once warm, the engine could tolerate the vacuum
leak fairly well  and the brakes continued to work satisfactorily
Sam Means



------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2001 #20
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