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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 80-96-list); Wed, 03 Jan 2001 15:27:24 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 15:27:24 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: 80-96-list digest users <listar Reply-to: 80-96-list Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2001 #2 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Tue, 02 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 002 In This Issue: Spindle nut removal on 4x4 Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4 Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4 Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4 Re: Sum question/swap stuff Re: SB42 Rollback (was CA 66-73 smog check alert! Re: Sum question/swap stuff Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? Re: Sum question/swap stuff Installing Sliding Rear Window Re: Sum question/swap stuff Re: Sum question/swap stuff Re: Sum question/swap stuff ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rex Bennett" <rexbennett Subject: Spindle nut removal on 4x4 Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 13:50:41 -0600 All, I am in the process of replacing the auto hubs on my 95 F150 with a set of Warn Premiums because one of them refuses to lock. The problem is when I removed the existing Auto hubs I found two different hubs, I guess one of them has been replaced at one time. One side has what I think of as the standard spindle nut setup with a nut, lock washer and a second nut. Each nut has four keyways in them and I have a tool to remove these nuts. The problem is the other side has what looks like a single round nut with holes all the way around it and a modified looking C clip bent on one end to lock it in place. I checked with the parts house I normally deal with and they don't have anything to remove it with. I think I have to replace this nut with the standard type to use the Warn hubs so I just need to get it off without damaging anything else. Does anyone know a good place to find this tool or a way to remove this nut without it? Thanks Rex ------------------------------ From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Subject: Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4 Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 13:38:25 -0700 If you can get the c-clip thing unbent, you might be able to take a long punch and stick it in one of the holes and hit the side of the punch with a hammer while holding one end in the nut and the other end in your hand or on a jack stand or something. If the torque isn't too high on this lock nut, it might come free. Are the "holes" actual holes, or slots? On the Dana 50 that I have, the nut is round but has 6 radial slots that my hub socket tool's pins engage. If you have slots, the precision of the diameter of the "hole" circle is not critical. If you can get the grease off of the nut to get a good look at it, you might want to look through all your parts guy's special tools. For me, their book said one thing but the tool that was specified couldn't have worked. Knowing what I was looking for, I was able to get the right one, which was pretty different. Another option would be to fabricate a tool. If you could find a piece of scrap pipe that was thick enough and the right diameter, you can drill some holes in the end of the pipe in the right pattern/spacing and secure some pins in the holes and use the tool to remove the wrench. You could use loctite if you don't have a torch. For pins, you could use those gun nails that are ultra-hard and grind the head and points off. You'll likely want to use hardened steel for the pins. A third option that comes to mind is to get two long punches that will fit into the holes. Then take some scrap steel and some vice grips and clamp the punches to the steel to make a squared off U with the tips of the punches in the holes. Then put a lever between the arms of the U and twist. Just an idea. Hope that helps. Chip > -----Original Message----- > From: Rex Bennett [mailto:rexbennett > Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 12:51 PM > To: 80-96-list > Subject: [80-96-list] Spindle nut removal on 4x4 > > > > All, > I am in the process of replacing the auto hubs on my 95 F150 > with a set of > Warn Premiums because one of them refuses to lock. The > problem is when I > removed the existing Auto hubs I found two different hubs, I > guess one of > them has been replaced at one time. One side has what I > think of as the > standard spindle nut setup with a nut, lock washer and a > second nut. Each > nut has four keyways in them and I have a tool to remove > these nuts. The > problem is the other side has what looks like a single round > nut with holes > all the way around it and a modified looking C clip bent on > one end to lock > it in place. I checked with the parts house I normally deal > with and they > don't have anything to remove it with. I think I have to > replace this nut > with the standard type to use the Warn hubs so I just need to > get it off > without damaging anything else. Does anyone know a good > place to find this > tool or a way to remove this nut without it? > > Thanks > Rex > > ------------------------------ From: Lwskywalk Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 15:39:33 EST Subject: Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? i didnt know that the 96 f150 had a 4.6 in it?!? 97's do ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 15:42:17 -0500 From: James Oxley <luxjo Subject: Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? Lwskywalk > > i didnt know that the 96 f150 had a 4.6 in it?!? 97's do I didn't think they had them till 97 too!! Got any pics? OX -- 78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44 boggers, 9" lift (27 mud), never 79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5 SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it). 79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 19.3 86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 ------------------------------ From: Lwskywalk Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 15:43:58 EST Subject: Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? got any pics of what? trucks ? luke ------------------------------ From: "Rex Bennett" <rexbennett Subject: Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 14:58:24 -0600 Opps.. your right it is a 97. Rex -----Original Message----- From: 80-96-list-bounce [mailto:80-96-list-bounce Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 2:40 PM To: 80-96-list Subject: [80-96-list] Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? i didnt know that the 96 f150 had a 4.6 in it?!? 97's do ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 16:01:26 -0500 From: James Oxley <luxjo Subject: Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? Lwskywalk > > got any pics of what? trucks ? > luke Pic of a 4.6 in a 96 ford F-series?? OX -- 78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44 boggers, 9" lift (27 mud), never 79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5 SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it). 79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 19.3 86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 ------------------------------ From: "CRAIG CATRON" <onionman Subject: Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4 Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 17:37:18 -0500 Had the same problem on my 250. after 3 hours of running around trying to find the right tool ....I used a pair of needle nose pliers and a screwdriver to get the half c clip off then after making a tool for the nut (by grinding up one i had jus bought} the nut was only on finger tight. the other side took 20 min. onion ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rex Bennett" <rexbennett To: <80-96-list Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 2:50 PM Subject: [80-96-list] Spindle nut removal on 4x4 > > All, > I am in the process of replacing the auto hubs on my 95 F150 with a set of > Warn Premiums because one of them refuses to lock. The problem is when I > removed the existing Auto hubs I found two different hubs, I guess one of > them has been replaced at one time. One side has what I think of as the > standard spindle nut setup with a nut, lock washer and a second nut. Each > nut has four keyways in them and I have a tool to remove these nuts. The > problem is the other side has what looks like a single round nut with holes > all the way around it and a modified looking C clip bent on one end to lock > it in place. I checked with the parts house I normally deal with and they > don't have anything to remove it with. I think I have to replace this nut > with the standard type to use the Warn hubs so I just need to get it off > without damaging anything else. Does anyone know a good place to find this > tool or a way to remove this nut without it? > > Thanks > Rex > > > ------------------------------ From: Lwskywalk Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 17:34:39 EST Subject: Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? oh brain fart.. no but i have a 94 with a 351w luke ------------------------------ From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Subject: Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4 Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 15:39:17 -0700 I discovered a handy technique for the C shaped snap rings with holes in them. I put needle nose pliers in the little holes and use a big screwdriver between the jaws of the pliers. It provides more control over what you're doing as well as being easier. Chip > -----Original Message----- > From: CRAIG CATRON [mailto:onionman > Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 3:37 PM > To: 80-96-list > Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Spindle nut removal on 4x4 > > > > Had the same problem on my 250. after 3 hours of running > around trying to > find the right tool ....I used a pair of needle nose pliers and a > screwdriver to get the half c clip off then after making a > tool for the nut > (by grinding up one i had jus bought} the nut was only on > finger tight. the > other side took 20 min. > onion > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rex Bennett" <rexbennett > To: <80-96-list > Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 2:50 PM > Subject: [80-96-list] Spindle nut removal on 4x4 > > > > > > All, > > I am in the process of replacing the auto hubs on my 95 > F150 with a set of > > Warn Premiums because one of them refuses to lock. The > problem is when I > > removed the existing Auto hubs I found two different hubs, > I guess one of > > them has been replaced at one time. One side has what I > think of as the > > standard spindle nut setup with a nut, lock washer and a > second nut. Each > > nut has four keyways in them and I have a tool to remove > these nuts. The > > problem is the other side has what looks like a single > round nut with > holes > > all the way around it and a modified looking C clip bent on > one end to > lock > > it in place. I checked with the parts house I normally > deal with and they > > don't have anything to remove it with. I think I have to > replace this nut > > with the standard type to use the Warn hubs so I just need > to get it off > > without damaging anything else. Does anyone know a good > place to find > this > > tool or a way to remove this nut without it? > > > > Thanks > > Rex > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 16:43:01 -0600 From: "EyEHATE-TTB'z" <dahorse Subject: Re: Sum question/swap stuff Hmmmmm...sounds like a bit of a trouble spot.,,,, will it start my Big big block ya thinks OX? I respect yr pinion...(cept with hub caps:-P) Norm James Oxley wrote: > > EyEHATE-TTB'z wrote: > > > > > 4) Starters. late model 460 gear reduction starters intrest me for this > > swap...... any problems or are they as relaible as I am hoping? > > > > Mine seems lame, but who knows what type of abuse it has seen. Also, > connector to solenoid is a "spade" connector, not bolted up. Gets > corroded and then it won't start until you climb under and jiggle it > around a little :-). > > OX > > -- > 78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44 > boggers, 9" lift (27 > mud), never > 79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5 > SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it). > 79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 > 19.3 > 86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 > 90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 > 95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 ------------------------------ From: "les williams" <lesw Subject: Re: SB42 Rollback (was CA 66-73 smog check alert! Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 10:04:43 +1100 Hi Chuck, As nice as it would be for me to front up the meeting, it's not possible. Would you be kind enough to share more details on exactly what is going on regards older more 'classic' cars ? Not so much the legal mumbo-jumbo, but how you actually live with it. If you feel it's too boring to the list in general, please post off list. As you point out as Ca goes, so does the rest of the USA. Well I got news for you. If it's 'swallowed' in the USA, we get it down here, simply based on the assumption, it must be 'good for you' cause the Ca/USA has it ... and I guess I'd be happier with that IF I could buy an Effie for the same price as you. regards Les, Still lost in the land of OZ. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Sanborn" <slammer To: <fordnatics Cc: <TFFN <80-96-list Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 2:38 AM Subject: [80-96-list] SB42 Rollback (was CA 66-73 smog check alert! > > I have just received more information on this from Jim Thomas of > the National Motorists Association, and it is no hoax! > The CA Inspection and Maintenance Review Committee (IMRC) > has proposed and passed their draft recommendations to > "include the 1966-1973 vehicles in the Smog Check program with > an exemption for classic cars and restrict the test to actual > emissions. Alternatively, eliminate the rolling exemption". AND > "to make all 1966-1973 vehicles eligible for the Vehicle Retirement > Program". > Remember, as California goes, so goes the nation (at least as far > as smog check is concerned). > Please notify any interested parties of this and if you can make the > Jan 18th meeting in Sacremento at the Dept of Consumer Affairs > Conference Room 400 R st, Ground floor, 10am - 4pm > > > Chuck > Chuck Sanborn > Torrance, CA > 1964 Falcon Sprint > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 20:13:57 -0500 From: James Oxley <luxjo Subject: Re: Sum question/swap stuff EyEHATE-TTB'z wrote: > > Hmmmmm...sounds like a bit of a trouble spot.,,,, will it start my Big > big block ya thinks OX? > I respect yr pinion...(cept with hub caps:-P) > Seems like it turns over real slow, even when it's warm out (maybe it's supposed to that way???). This 460 seems to take along time to start. haven't headr any others start, so I have no comparison. Could also be battery, connections, etc... since this truck had a plow and was from Pa., stuff might be corroded under there. OX ------------------------------ From: Spruce1495 Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:12:00 EST Subject: Re: What year extended cab to pursue?? Wayne, Information appreciated. Thanks, Bill in KY ------------------------------ From: "Jared Templin" <jtemplin21 Subject: Re: Sum question/swap stuff Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 19:39:49 -0800 >I have the great "pleasure" of owning a 91 Bronco..and have a few plans >in the works and would like to see if anyone can help me with a few >questions I am entertaining! Norm....while you are ditching the TTB do you want to just go ahead and ditch that 5 lug dynatrac D60 and send it to me.....I mean you want 8 lugs anyway right? >1) Cruise control on 91 I understand requires interface with sum of the >electronics in ECM? > if this is true...What year "carbed" non ECM equipped rig should I be >considering aquiring Cruise unit from...and can I retain the 91 steering >colume and the like? Not sure.....87 would be the same body style though and should be carbed so that may be your best bet???? >3) Who builds a nice high quality "shorty" header for the 460 EFI rigs.I >know manufactures that build em. what I wanna know is anyone have sum >and how do you like there fitment? I have been wondering this too, but haven't found a lot of choices for shorty headers so far. OX has the Thorley's, but they are a long tube as far as I know and he commented on the bad job of chroming they did....haven't heard if he has them installed yet. Borla, Gibson, JBA, and Banks all make the headers as well, but as far as I know they are all long tube setups....at least somewhat long tube. >4) Starters. late model 460 gear reduction starters intrest me for this >swap...... any problems or are they as relaible as I am hoping? The starter in my 95 F250 seems to work good if that is the same type you are commenting on....Course it only has to turn over a stock motor, and I don't abuse it.......Don't worry Norm if someone can break it you can ;-) Jared _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ From: "Al Powell" <powellae Subject: Installing Sliding Rear Window Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:33:59 -0700 Chuck asked: > From: chuck & kathy sanborn <slammer > Subject: Rear slider install instructions needed > > I just got a new slider for my 86 F150 and need VERY EXPLICIT > instructions on how to remove the old one and install the new > one. Tools needed, etc. Hey, here's one I can help with! Just did this on my 93 F-150. Chuck, it's EASY - no more than a 30 minute job, even the first time. Before starting, take a good look at your rear window gasket. If it's in rough shape, get a replacement...no reason not to get a good install because of that. Then: 1) With helper standing in bed of truck, press old window out of gasket from inside cab. (If the gasket is old and stiff, you might want to try treating the outside part of the gasket with silicone an hour or so before the work - might soften it.) Wearing eye protection for this removal procedure isn't a bad idea just in case the window shatters for some reason. This glass is tempered, so it will shatter, not crack. 2) Remove gasket from truck body; treat with silicone spray to renew it as much as possible. Install old gasket around new window. Hint: make sure the sliding window assembly is pointing inside the cab! (Sounds simple, but we all make mistakes.) 3) Lay a 1/8" or larger rope inside the channel all around the gasket. Leave a foot or more outside the channel on each end; this rope will be used to pull the gasket lip inside the truck when installing. Hint: note the position of the trailing end of the rope...DO NOT leave the trailing end on the outside - make sure the trailing end is inside the cab when you begin installation. (This prevents you from pulling all the trailing end through the gasket after the window is in place. Don't ask how I know this, please...) 4) Have your helper standing in the bed sit the gasket/window assembly in place across the bottom of the window opening. Center the window, then start pulling the rope around the opening; as you do this, pull the inner lip of the gasket into place inside the cab. Some grunting and strong fingers are required. The silicone you sprayed on earlier will reduce friction during this process. Work your way all around the window, and you're done! 5) Open beverage of choice for you and helper, then figure out what to do with old window. I'm going to call a local glass place and see if they want my old window free. If not, I have no idea what to do with it. Any (helpful) ideas? Anyone need a free solid rear window for a 93 F-150? -------------------------------------------------------------- Al Powell Fort Collins, CO '58 Fiat 1200 Spyder '83 Datsun 280 ZXT '90 Audi 200 '90 Ford F-150 powellae --------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 23:43:27 -0600 From: "EyEHATE-TTB'z" <dahorse Subject: Re: Sum question/swap stuff Heya Jared Nah I ahve to keep the Dana 60 5 lug floater rear... it matches my 5 lug front Dana 60 ;-) Ta think the length one will go to run those nice beadlok wheels eh?.LMAO Norm who btw has not broke squat since I started driving a Scout! wohooooooo (IH-Motorsports) "Fastest Scout in Wisconsin" Jared Templin wrote: > Norm....while you are ditching the TTB do you want to just go ahead and > ditch that 5 lug dynatrac D60 and send it to me.....I mean you want 8 lugs > anyway right? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 08:38:30 -0500 From: James Oxley <luxjo Subject: Re: Sum question/swap stuff EyEHATE-TTB'z wrote: > > Heya Jared > > Nah I ahve to keep the Dana 60 5 lug floater rear... it matches my 5 lug > front Dana 60 ;-) > Ta think the length one will go to run those nice beadlok wheels > eh?.LMAO > > Norm > who btw has not broke squat since I started driving a Scout! > wohooooooo (IH-Motorsports) "Fastest Scout in Wisconsin" > Liar, you told me you broke a front U-joint and axle, LOL!!!! OX -- 78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44 boggers, 9" lift (27 mud), never 79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5 SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it). 79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 19.3 86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 13:25:09 -0600 From: "EyEHATE-TTB'z" <dahorse To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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