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Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 14:29:32 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2001 #16
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80-96-list Digest Sun, 21 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 016

In This Issue:
Re: tached
Re: Its getting warm...maybe
brake booster removal techniques?
Brake Proportioning valve
Hagerty Classic Car Insurance

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jcannon softhome.net
Subject: Re: tached
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 13:43:11 GMT



Talk to a local speedo shop and see what they will charge to set the
odometer where you want it, if you pull the unit out and hand it to them on
the bench.

Chris McKinnon writes:

>
> Try something like a die grinder or a dremel. A dremel will do about 30,000
> RPM, a die grinder might hit 60 grand.
>
> Chris
>
> >Actually with a drill you could probably go forward just fine, but the


Regards,
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX

------------------------------

From: jcannon softhome.net
Subject: Re: Its getting warm...maybe
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 13:54:49 GMT



Fred Moreno writes:

> Hey all,
>
>  Well, I tried to bleed out the air from the coolant system last night when
> I got home...That stuff is HOT! I loosened the hose clamps going to my
> propane regulator since they are the highest part in the system and WHOA
> NELLIE coolant squirting out with just the hose clamp loose. Okay so pump
> works really well and there was no air that I noticed - to busy yelling
> "shut it off!".

<snip>

Phred!
Yikes, man! I would never suggest anyone loosen the hose clamp with the
engine running! I always loosen the clamp with the engine hot (system under
pressure) but shut off. That pushes the air out easily.

Regards,
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 10:14:21 -0600
From: "Justin Schick" <jschick aafp.org>
Subject: brake booster removal techniques?


I rounded up a replacement booster (looks brand new!) for $45. I've got the master cylinder off of the front, the nuts off of the 4 studs coming through the firewall, and the rod disconnected from the brake pedal. I don't know if it's just rusted or what, but it's not coming out, even with the persuasion of an 8 pound sledge and a foot and a half of metal pipe. No, I haven't gone completely psycho on it but am about to... =)

There's a shiny metal bracket (besides the firewall) that the studs come though. Do I have to remove this (it looks like the studs should just slide through it)?

Any and all help greatly appreciated!
Justin 85 F-150 300 / 4 spd. / 4X4


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 19:47:07 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy <bobkennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Brake Proportioning valve


I am having a heck of a time getting my brakes repaired. I
replaced front calipers with new units. As I try to bleed
them the proportioning valve will shift and block the front
flow. I thought ar first the prop vale might be bad and got
another one. Same thing happens with that one as well. I'm
going to get someone who'll listen to me closely and have
them ease the brake pedal down to get the air out of the
front brakes, then bleed the entire system. Am I missing
something? Seems like this is harder than it should be.

Bob


--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org
2Big Broncos Organization
227 Bellevue Way NE #717
Bellevue, WA 98004
206-224-3000



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 10:25:24 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn <slammer deltanet.com>
Subject: Hagerty Classic Car Insurance


I just got a telephone call reply to my e-mail query about the rumor
that Hagerty's was purchased by Allstate...FALSE!!, NOT TRUE!!
They have no idea how that ugly rumor got started but it is definitely
not true.
Whew, now I can rest easy knowing that  :-)
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint


------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2001 #16
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