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Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 23:38:52 -0500 (EST)
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Mon, 15 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 013

In This Issue:
Re: tached
Re: tached
Fuel Pessure Regulator
Thanks!
Re: tached
C4 not shifting right when cold
Re: C4 not shifting right when cold
Re: Fuel Pessure Regulator
Re: Fuel Pessure Regulator
Re: Fuel Pessure Regulator
Tyre sizes & Lift Kits revisited...
Clutch not engaging
Re: Tyre sizes & Lift Kits revisited...
radius arms and bushings
Re: Clutch not engaging
tyres and lift kits
'95 Just Turned 100K
HELP - WARN Preimum Manual Locking Hubs
Re: Fuel Pessure Regulator
To burp or not to burp...
Fw: For sale?
Roll Back of SB42 (Smog Check)
Its getting warm...maybe
Re: Its getting warm...maybe
Re: Tyre sizes & Lift Kits revisited...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: tached
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 18:59:31 -0500

> Now does anyone know how to make the (probably illegal)
> adjustment to the odometer so it's accurate?  That's not a
> big deal as I can always add 67,000 to what's indicated if I
> want to know the real mileage.

Well, if you are adding miles, you can run the cable forward
with an electric drill or similar tool until it reads the accurate
mileage.  Probably is illegal, but running it forward won't trigger
the "turned back" indicator (I have heard that some odometers
have a strip that peels off or other indicator if you run them
backwards.), and besides, who is going to even bother charging
it as criminal to "devalue" your truck with additional miles ?




------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Re: tached
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 17:33:29 -0700


Actually with a drill you could probably go forward just fine, but the
amount of time required would be enormous.  If your drill could turn the
speedometer at 120mph, which I bet is unlikely, you still have to run at
558.33 hrs, or 23 days of continuous running.

Chip


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Serian [mailto:serian mailandnews.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 5:00 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Re: tached
>
>
> > Now does anyone know how to make the (probably illegal)
> > adjustment to the odometer so it's accurate?  That's not a
> > big deal as I can always add 67,000 to what's indicated if I
> > want to know the real mileage.
>
> Well, if you are adding miles, you can run the cable forward
> with an electric drill or similar tool until it reads the accurate
> mileage.  Probably is illegal, but running it forward won't trigger
> the "turned back" indicator (I have heard that some odometers
> have a strip that peels off or other indicator if you run them
> backwards.), and besides, who is going to even bother charging
> it as criminal to "devalue" your truck with additional miles ?
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 19:36:23 -0500
From: flagship <Flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Fuel Pessure Regulator


Reading the archives, I found a recommended solution to a problem I'm
having.  After the engine warms up and is parked for 20-30 mins or more,
it takes excessive cranking to restart it.  Cold start is great and if
you start it up within a few minutes of shutdown it's okay.

Someone suggested the fuel pressure regulator has a diaghram that's
leaking allowing excess fuel into the cylinders.

Two questions.  Anybody else have the problem and did this fix it?
Where is the fuel pressure regulator located?  The part is less then
$100 so I'd change it if I thought it might fix the problem.  The dealer
had it six months ago and never fixed it.

The truck is a 94 F150 with the 302.

Thanks...




Serian wrote:
>
> > Now does anyone know how to make the (probably illegal)
> > adjustment to the odometer so it's accurate?  That's not a
> > big deal as I can always add 67,000 to what's indicated if I
> > want to know the real mileage.
>
> Well, if you are adding miles, you can run the cable forward
> with an electric drill or similar tool until it reads the accurate
> mileage.  Probably is illegal, but running it forward won't trigger
> the "turned back" indicator (I have heard that some odometers
> have a strip that peels off or other indicator if you run them
> backwards.), and besides, who is going to even bother charging
> it as criminal to "devalue" your truck with additional miles ?

------------------------------

From: "Jerry Godsey" <godzilla51 prodigy.net>
Subject: Thanks!
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:49:46 -0800


Thanks to all of you who helped out with my power window question.  This
afternoon I replaced both sides in about an hour.  The driver's side had
already been drilled out, so it was cake!  The passenger side took a little
longer, but not bad.  I think ti took my an hour to do both sides.
It is nice to be able to go to a drive thru again!
Blessings,
Jerry Godsey
www.geocities.com/view_from_pew
88 F-150
95 Aerostar
89 Escort GT
66 VW Beetle
Imperial, CA


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 17:03:02 -0800
From: Chris McKinnon <chrism cnx.net>
Subject: Re: tached


Try something like a die grinder or a dremel. A dremel will do about 30,000
RPM, a die grinder might hit 60 grand.

Chris

>Actually with a drill you could probably go forward just fine, but the
>amount of time required would be enormous.  If your drill could turn the
>speedometer at 120mph, which I bet is unlikely, you still have to run at
>558.33 hrs, or 23 days of continuous running.
>
>Chip
>


------------------------------

From: DTrowbridge webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 19:33:55 -0600 (CST)
Subject: C4 not shifting right when cold


i have posted this in numerous places, but noone seems to know what is
causing this.  when the truck is cold, it will not shift into 3rd gear
until after driving 3-5 miles.  then it shifts fine.  i always let the
truck warm up properly in the morning(at least 5 minutes and i live in
Texas), but it never fails not to do this.  i did have the tranny
overhauled this last early spring and ever since then, it has shifted on
the firm side.  a few weeks ago i added a secondary tranny cooler and
the problem got slightly worse, so it has to have something to do with
the temp of the tranny.  the trannys fluid level is ok(i've checked it
several times) and besides it shifting firmly(the dash normally
pops/creaks when it shifts) i have had no problems out of it.  is it
possible that the tranny shop did some valve work on it wthout telling
me and this in turn cause this problem?  or could a vacuum leak cause
this problem?

David
85 F-150  300 I6
C-4 3 speed auto 2.47 FDR


------------------------------

From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:48:16 EST
Subject: Re: C4 not shifting right when cold

Sounds like the modulator valve control is shot. Check all vacuum lines
running to trans. May have small cracks, etc. causing vac. leaks.

Bill in KY



------------------------------

From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 22:51:52 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Pessure Regulator


the regulator is on the driverside of the lower intake mounted on the fuel
rail behind the last injector it has a vaccumm line runnin to it should be
yellow.  the regulator i do believe is less than a hundred dollars or you can
go to mustangs unlimited and get a adjustable one for not much more

luke

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 23:04:57 -0500
From: flagship <Flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pessure Regulator


Thanks.

It sounds "relatively" easy to get to.  I'll look at it in daylight....




Lwskywalk aol.com wrote:
>
> the regulator is on the driverside of the lower intake mounted on the fuel
> rail behind the last injector it has a vaccumm line runnin to it should be
> yellow.  the regulator i do believe is less than a hundred dollars or you can
> go to mustangs unlimited and get a adjustable one for not much more
>
> luke

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:10:20 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy <bobkennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pessure Regulator


Looks are deceiving. The screws to remove it are on the bottom. You'll probably end
up pulling the drivers side fuel rail to get at it. It's still not a bad job. If
you have to pull the furl rail, the o-rings are in the rail end of the injector. Be
careful that you don't mis-align the injectors when you put it back together. It's
not that hard to split one of the o-rings.

Bob


flagship wrote:

> Thanks.
>
> It sounds "relatively" easy to get to.  I'll look at it in daylight....
>
> Lwskywalk aol.com wrote:
> >
> > the regulator is on the driverside of the lower intake mounted on the fuel
> > rail behind the last injector it has a vaccumm line runnin to it should be
> > yellow.  the regulator i do believe is less than a hundred dollars or you can
> > go to mustangs unlimited and get a adjustable one for not much more
> >
> > luke

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org
2Big Broncos Organization
227 Bellevue Way NE #717
Bellevue, WA 98004
206-224-3000



------------------------------

From: "Keith Bugeja" <kbugeja nortelnetworks.com>
Subject: Tyre sizes & Lift Kits revisited...
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 11:57:25 +0800

Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"

> G'day All,
>
> I realise this has been hashed out before, but I'd like to get your
> valuable opinions given my constraints.
> Tis hard to come by honest, reputable F series dealers in the land down
> under as most of em will usually try sell you what you don't need for some
> ridicolous price.
>
> I own a Long Wheel Base 1990 4x4 F150 XLT that is Right Hand Drive.  It
> has 4 shocks, and coil springs up front along with 31 x 10.5 Olympic
> Overlanders tyres on 15x8 wheels all round.
>
> I want to put either 33x12.5 or 35x12.5 BFG all terains on the truck
> depending on the following:
>
> Will I require a lift kit to put either of these tyres on ??
> Will either of these tyres reduce my sensational turning circle ??
>
> In a previous thread, someone recommended that a lift kit for such a truck
> should include at  a minimum:
> - Front coil springs
> - Radius arm drop brackets or degreed c-bushings
> - track bar drop bracket
> - blocks, add-a-leafs, or new rear spring packs
> - shocks
> - dropped pitman arm
>
> If I do require a lift kit for the fore mentioned tyre choices, would it
> need to contain all of the above ??
> I'm only after a few inches more ground clearance and wouldn't necessarily
> have to go for a lift kit if I didn't have to, so I'd
> appreciate your opinions and any experiences you've had doing such a
> conversion.
>
> Thanx & Regards
> Keith
>
BTW:  If anyones interested, I've got heaps of pix of my F150
journeying across the land of OZ.  Did over 30,000kms thru some harsh
territory.  Towed a 2 tonne trailer that held a boat, 3 dirtbikes & all our
other
toys.  Here's a few samples

>  <<1727.JPG>>  <<223.JPG>>  <<38.JPG>>
>



-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: image/jpeg
-- File: 1727.JPG


-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: image/jpeg
-- File: 223.JPG


-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: image/jpeg
-- File: 38.JPG



------------------------------

From: "Tim Clevenger" <tclevenger hotmail.com>
Subject: Clutch not engaging
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 22:16:49 -0800


Hi all,

I seem to be having problems with my clutch engaging properly.  It is most
notable when operating under very heavy load or when cold, but I suspect
that this is the key to other shifting problems I'm having.  Subject is an
85 F-250 460 T-19 4-speed.  When engaging from a stop, the clutch slips
badly under load (i.e. bed loaded).  The last time this happened, I noticed
that the pedal wasn't coming all the way up when released.  Is this a signal
that I need a new return spring or is there something else happening?  When
the clutch finally "smokes" (begins to smell), I push the pedal in, and then
it's extremely difficult to shift out of gear until it cools down a bit.
Any ideas?

Thanks.

Tim Clevenger
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 03:04:15 EST
Subject: Re: Tyre sizes & Lift Kits revisited...


In a message dated 1/16/01 12:05:05 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kbugeja nortelnetworks.com writes:


> Will I require a lift kit to put either of these tyres on ??

I have BFG 33x12.50 MT's and I needed a 3" body lift to clear them.
> Will either of these tyres reduce my sensational turning circle ??

>
> If I do require a lift kit for the fore mentioned tyre choices, would it
> need to contain all of the above ??
> I'm only after a few inches more ground clearance and wouldn't necessarily
> have to go for a lift kit if I didn't have to, so I'd
> appreciate your opinions and any experiences you've had doing such a
> conversion.
>  >>
   As I said above I have the body lift, and if you are handy with a welder
it makes it a lot easier.  I just wanted bigger tires and I had recently
redone the whole front Springs and shocks, and didn't need to replace them
again.  Biggest problem was fitment of the front bumper, it looks very out of
place 3" lower than the front valance.  I originally notched it and moved it
up, but after realizing there was no strength in the mounting(only 2 of the 4
bolts were holding it on) I cut off the ends of the frame and moved them up
3" and rewelded them and a piece of 3/8" plate so they would be in the stock
position, relative to the body.


Joe
Lost in Jersey
1992 F150 Nite 4x4 302/AOD K&N
Dynomax MAC BFG33x12.50MT locked

------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 03:07:37 EST
Subject: radius arms and bushings


   I had a recent mishap in the woods and bent a radius arm, a rim , axle,
and the beam on my front suspension...  I know there is some sort of trick to
getting the radius arm bushings off, can anyone lend me some insight on this?
THe arm itself is shot, but I will need to reuse the bracket that it
attaches to on the frame...

thanks,

Joe
Lost in Jersey
1992 F150 Nite 4x4 302/AOD K&N
Dynomax MAC BFG33x12.50MT locked

------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 03:11:08 EST
Subject: Re: Clutch not engaging


In a message dated 1/16/01 01:17:45 AM Eastern Standard Time,
tclevenger hotmail.com writes:

<< it's extremely difficult to shift out of gear until it cools down a bit.
Any ideas? >>
I remember something about the firewall cracking/Flexing and the clutches
Master not allowing the slave to engage/disengage properly...  I also
remember on one of my tow trucks the bellhousing actually cracked from the
pressure of the slave, not allowing any engagement.

Joe
Lost in Jersey
1992 F150 Nite 4x4 302/AOD K&N
Dynomax MAC BFG33x12.50MT locked

------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 03:17:19 EST
Subject: tyres and lift kits


n a message dated 1/16/01 12:05:05 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kbugeja nortelnetworks.com writes:


> Will I require a lift kit to put either of these tyres on ??

I have BFG 33x12.50 MT's and I needed a 3" body lift to clear them.
> Will either of these tyres reduce my sensational turning circle ??

>
> If I do require a lift kit for the fore mentioned tyre choices, would it
> need to contain all of the above ??
> I'm only after a few inches more ground clearance and wouldn't necessarily
> have to go for a lift kit if I didn't have to, so I'd
> appreciate your opinions and any experiences you've had doing such a
> conversion.
>  >>
   As I said above I have the body lift, and if you are handy with a welder
it makes it a lot easier.  I just wanted bigger tires and I had recently
redone the whole front Springs and shocks, and didn't need to replace them
again.  Biggest problem was fitment of the front bumper, it looks very out of
place 3" lower than the front valance.  I originally notched it and moved it
up, but after realizing there was no strength in the mounting(only 2 of the 4
bolts were holding it on) I cut off the ends of the frame and moved them up
3" and rewelded them and a piece of 3/8" plate so they would be in the stock
position, relative to the body.


Joe
Lost in Jersey
1992 F150 Nite 4x4 302/AOD K&N
Dynomax MAC BFG33x12.50MT locked

------------------------------

From: "Justen Noakes" <jrnoakes texas.net>
Subject: '95 Just Turned 100K
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 06:56:26 -0600


Fellow Fordsters,

I know that with today's engineering, the odometer turning 100,000 isn't
really that big of a deal, but I still think it is pretty cool and wanted to
share this event with everyone here.  On Sunday "Ol' Blackie" turned 100K.
My wife says I talk all the time about a new truck (don't we all), but that
I wouldn't know what to do without this one...she is probably right.  I have
been on the list for about 2-21/2 of those years and have really enjoyed all
the conversations and the information.  Ken you do a great job!

Now for the question.  I honor of this event, I wanted to spend this
Saturday working on her.  I am planning an oil change, new plugs, plug
wires, distributor and a nice warm bath.  Now that she has 100K, is there
anything I should go ahead and replace/look at?  I would rather work in
preventative mode that crisis mode, so any recommendations would be great.

Things that have gone astray in the past 5 1/2 years:  Left side radius arm
bushing, starter, and clutch (not too bad).  I have also replaced fuel
filter (what a pain in the *%), brakes, battery, oil, plugs,wires,etc..

Thanks guys..have a great day!

Justen Noakes
jrnoakes texas.net
'95 F150, 4.9L, Mazda 5spd, 2wd




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 11:46:36 -0500
From: "Williams, Michael A" <michael.a.williams lmco.com>
Subject: HELP - WARN Preimum Manual Locking Hubs


Folks:

Just completed two major tasks.  First, I sold the 88 F250 LB 4WD to a nice
gentlemen from New Mexico who runs an outfitter and guide service called
Lonesome Dove Ranch.  I replaced it with a 1996 F350 Crew Cab LB 4WD with
auto and a 460 (major gas chugger here).  I think I got a real good deal
here - ya right!

Second, I moved from Fort Worth, Texas to Bedford, New Hampshire.  Had the
F350 (and everything else) trucked to NH.  Upon arrival of the vehicles, we
were having a blizzard.  I found out that the autolocking Hubs are TU (no
real surprise here, huh?).

Much has been said about the conversion to WARN Premiums, I need to get this
done post haste as another blizzard is coming this weekend.  Problem is that
I cannot find these hubs locally.  I found an outfit called "Go WARN" on the
web that has them for my truck including a conversion kit.  Price is $260 -
OUCH!  I thought some listers had purchased them for $160 or so.

Questions:
1) Anyone got a reliable and cheaper source?
2) Anyone know where a good DIY description for this job can be had?
3) Assumming that I can't get the job done before the storm hits, any
good suggestions regarding how to get the autos working one last time?

Thanks in advance!

Mike Williams
1996 supper wa wa ding dong wheel spinner - kinda of embarrassing!

------------------------------

From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 13:10:08 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Pessure Regulator


the screws on a 94f150 302 are hex head screws that are on top of the
regulator i have 2 94's and both screws are on top front and back of the
regulator

luke

------------------------------

From: SASCHOCH aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 13:32:56 EST
Subject: To burp or not to burp...


Phred:
Did you check out "tuscola's" write-up in #12 on his bronco heater core clog?
-Steve

------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Fw: For sale?
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 10:32:40 -0800




I am thinking about selling my '96 F250 4WD.
It is a supercab longbed, Powerstroke, automatic, XLT, custom wheels, newer
tires (90% tread), Line X spray in bedliner, running boards, hitch, trailer
brake controller, diamond plate bed caps, PW, PDL, tilt, cruise, AC, p
lumbar, 90K miles all highway, very well taken care of, good fuel mileage
$21,900/ make offer... part trade?
 In Southern Oregon
Would make a very nice, comfortable tow rig
Email off list for more information  derrar internetcds.com
Thanks,
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke
'77 F150 4WD 429
"As fast as necessary, as slow as possible"




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 10:59:11 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn <slammer deltanet.com>
Subject: Roll Back of SB42 (Smog Check)


I just now received this e-mail from Senator Bowens office and I thought
I'd share it with you.  Especially those of you that think this may be a
hoax:
January 12, 2000

Dear Mr. Sanborn,

Senator Bowen has asked me to respond to your email dated January 1, 2001
asking about the IMRC meeting January 18th. This meeting will be discussing
moving the requirement to obtain a smog check from 1973 models back to 1966
model vehicles. The email you received seems to be building support to
defeat that proposal.
Though there is a good chance that matter will be discussed at the January
18 meeting (particularly if there are private citizens there to discuss it),
it is unlikely that a final decision will be made that evening. The IMRC
will probably need several more meetings to completely review the final
draft of their recommendations. When their recommendations are voted on by
the commission and approved, they will be forwarded to the legislature.

Write your representatives folks.  The only way to defeat this is by shear
numbers!
Chuck


------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno <fmoreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: Its getting warm...maybe
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 12:14:03 -0700

Hey all,

Well, I tried to bleed out the air from the coolant system last night when
I got home...That stuff is HOT! I loosened the hose clamps going to my
propane regulator since they are the highest part in the system and WHOA
NELLIE coolant squirting out with just the hose clamp loose. Okay so pump
works really well and there was no air that I noticed - to busy yelling
"shut it off!".
This morning was not as cold, horse through and the dogs water bowls were
only slightly iced over, and heater was working....mmm, okay. Still not the
convection oven it used to be.
I like the idea of using the shop vac.
Reversing the heater hoses did improve the heater's operation.

Hey Chuck,  how about cruising a pawn shop or flea market to find some old
8-track tapes and just leave them inside the vehicle in plain site in
conjuction with a remote CD player stashed away? Maybe the would-be-thief
would recognize the tapes (if he's old enough) and just walk away? As long
as the thief wasn't into antiques you'd be okay.
I never understood why people advertise their systems with huge stickers on
the vehicle. As much as I would like to do the same, it's just an invitation
to a thief.

Phred

------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Re: Its getting warm...maybe
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 13:38:52 -0700


I don't think the 8 tracks laying about would help.  I've found that the two
times that my vehicle was broken in to that whoever did it was totally
stupid.  The first time they tore out the speakers and destroyed them in the
process creating two refrigerator magnets, and the second time there was
nothing worth stealing so they took the jumper cables, a hot black market
item to be sure.

I'd just get a removable face plate or removable stereo. You could also go
my current route -- I just listen to myself mutter about the other drivers.
:-)

Chip

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fred Moreno [mailto:fmoreno dualcurve.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 12:14 PM
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: [80-96-list] Its getting warm...maybe
>
>
> Hey all,
>
>  Well, I tried to bleed out the air from the coolant system
> last night when
> I got home...That stuff is HOT! I loosened the hose clamps going to my
> propane regulator since they are the highest part in the
> system and WHOA
> NELLIE coolant squirting out with just the hose clamp loose.
> Okay so pump
> works really well and there was no air that I noticed - to
> busy yelling
> "shut it off!".
>  This morning was not as cold, horse through and the dogs
> water bowls were
> only slightly iced over, and heater was working....mmm, okay.
> Still not the
> convection oven it used to be.
>  I like the idea of using the shop vac.
>  Reversing the heater hoses did improve the heater's operation.
>
>  Hey Chuck,  how about cruising a pawn shop or flea market to
> find some old
> 8-track tapes and just leave them inside the vehicle in plain site in
> conjuction with a remote CD player stashed away? Maybe the
> would-be-thief
> would recognize the tapes (if he's old enough) and just walk
> away? As long
> as the thief wasn't into antiques you'd be okay.
>  I never understood why people advertise their systems with
> huge stickers on
> the vehicle. As much as I would like to do the same, it's
> just an invitation
> to a thief.
>
>  Phred
>

------------------------------

From: "bigred" <big_red_59 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tyre sizes & Lift Kits revisited...
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 21:39:54 -0600


33" tires I have seen on stock height trucks, but on big bumps they do rub a
little. 35"s would need a  lift. I have 32"s with a 3" body and plan on putting
on my 4" susp to clear 36"s. The turning radius shouldn't go down with 12.5"
wide tires I believe someone once said that was the widest without. If you go
with the susp lift buy a kit. Depending on the type of kit and how much you want
to spend depends on what you get as far as parts go be it drop down brackets or
extended arms etc... Just make sure to shop around and get what you really want
the first time and get the best price.

59 F-250 Camper Special 390, C-6, original dana 60 w/4.56
87 F-150 4x4 3" body, 4" susp. covered in dust, 5.0,C-6
94 Mustang 3.8 gas mileage machine
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Bugeja <kbugeja nortelnetworks.com>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 9:57 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Tyre sizes & Lift Kits revisited...


> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> > G'day All,
> >
> > I realise this has been hashed out before, but I'd like to get your
> > valuable opinions given my constraints.
> > Tis hard to come by honest, reputable F series dealers in the land down
> > under as most of em will usually try sell you what you don't need for some
> > ridicolous price.
> >
> > I own a Long Wheel Base 1990 4x4 F150 XLT that is Right Hand Drive.  It
> > has 4 shocks, and coil springs up front along with 31 x 10.5 Olympic
> > Overlanders tyres on 15x8 wheels all round.
> >
> > I want to put either 33x12.5 or 35x12.5 BFG all terains on the truck
> > depending on the following:
> >
> > Will I require a lift kit to put either of these tyres on ??
> > Will either of these tyres reduce my sensational turning circle ??
> >
> > In a previous thread, someone recommended that a lift kit for such a truck
> > should include at  a minimum:
> > - Front coil springs
> > - Radius arm drop brackets or degreed c-bushings
> > - track bar drop bracket
> > - blocks, add-a-leafs, or new rear spring packs
> > - shocks
> > - dropped pitman arm
> >
> > If I do require a lift kit for the fore mentioned tyre choices, would it
> > need to contain all of the above ??
> > I'm only after a few inches more ground clearance and wouldn't necessarily
> > have to go for a lift kit if I didn't have to, so I'd
> > appreciate your opinions and any experiences you've had doing such a
> > conversion.
> >
> > Thanx & Regards
> > Keith
> >
> BTW:  If anyones interested, I've got heaps of pix of my F150 ....

---

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