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80-96-list Digest Mon, 27 Nov 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 247

In This Issue:
Re: aluminum welding
Re: 4x4 hub switching
Re: It's not physics, it's magic!
Re: It's not physics, it's magic!
Lights out
Re: Location of Knock Sensor
Re: It's not physics, it's magic!
Re: Lights out
Re: Location of Knock Sensor
Replacing oil pan gasket on 91 F150
Re: Replacing oil pan gasket on 91 F150
Re: Location of Knock Sensor
Re: It's not physics, it's magic!
Re: 4x4 hub switching
Re: It's not physics, it's magic!
ADMIN: FTE server downtime
Re: Lights out
Re: 4x4 hub switching
TTB parts...
Re: El Paso "Inventor"
ADMIN: Lists going down
ADMIN: Test of new list server

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Re: aluminum welding
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 09:47:33 -0700

I've tried something of this sort too, and it is indeed tricky.  Unlike
solder or brass, you can't go over the joint that you just made.  The
aluminum solder gets all grainy and the joint looks nastier and nastier the
more you try to make it look good.  Nevertheless, when you get it right, it
works pretty well.  I've also heard that it's possible to weld aluminum with
oxy-acetylene torches too, but have only read about it.

Chip

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Martin Horne [mailto:flatspin optonline.net]
> Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 8:35 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Re: aluminum welding
>
>
> Yeah, I tried them a few years ago and have a bunch of rods
> in the back of
> a closet for emergencies. The people demonstrating are pretty
> good - It
> isn't as easy as they make it look but with practice it works
> reasonably well.
>
> The alloy melts at a fairly low temp first go around, but
> once it cools it
> seems to take a lot more heat to melt it again. I have
> sucessfully "added
> metal" to objects that broke and then machined the new
> material back down,
> but bear in mind there are limitations. The end result is
> only as good as
> the original metal, so white metal castings don't work well.
> Best results
> are obtained from working on machined aluminum components.
>
> In all, it is certainly  a lot easier than learning to tig
> weld, and much
> less expensive to try. But for white metal, good old JB Weld
> is my preference.
>
>
>
> At 12:57 PM 11/23/00 -0800, you wrote:
> > Has anyone tried "welding"aluminum with a propane torch and aluminum
> >rods?
> > I have seen a few guys selling kits with different rods,instructions
> >etc.at swap meets and I even saw a infomecial for a kit.
> > It appears to be more like soldering,brazing or sweating than true
> >welding.
> >but it seemed to be a stromg bond.
> >=============================================================
> >To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> >Please remove this footer when replying.
> >
>
> Martin Horne
> '86 Bronco
> Long Island, NY
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>

------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno <fmoreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: Re: 4x4 hub switching
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 10:34:11 -0700

Jason wrote:

Auto hubs would be the last resort.  They suck... for lack of a
better way
of putting it. On the first snow storm of the year, I pulled into
the
driveway in 2wd when I came home.  When I went to leave the next
morning,
one wheel had froze to the ground and the other just spun.  I pulled
the
transfer case into 4 wheel and it still just sat there.  Stuck in my
own
driveway!!! It was pathetic.  I'm buying the Warn hub conversion as
soon as
I can get over the $160 price tag.  Unless someone wants to trade
some 3
bolt Dana 50/ 60 manual hubs for for my automatics.

Phred chips in:

YES I agree 100% with you, auto's suck (applies to transmissions also, but
that's another posting).
Had my '95 with autolocking hubs and with less than 30K miles on the truck
I was stuck at the bottom of a very steep arroyo. Transfer case was in
4-low, tried 4-high and still only the back tires spun on the rocky slopes.
Most embarrassing getting pulled out by a Dakota with a very expressive and
opinionated owner.
Apparently my OEM auto locking hubs wore down such that there was not
enough metal to create a long enough pushing action to engage the hubs.
Dealership wanted somewhere in the ballpark of $300 to replace.
I bought my WARN premium manual hubs for right around $95 for both sides. I
would certainly check around because $160 seems way to high. They were easy
to install once I figured out there was an "invisible" ring keeping
everything inside the hub.
Love the manuals hubs, there is no doubt when they are engaged, I had
doubts when the autos were still in. The very expressive and opinionated
Dakota owner still claims that getting out is so inconvenient, I just remind
him that I don't wear a skirt so what's the problem?

Phred
'95 F-150 4X4 199.8K miles!!!

------------------------------

From: kb9odg.mark juno.com
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 12:22:17 -0600
Subject: Re: It's not physics, it's magic!

Um, he probably got it from Ford.  My '87 is SEFI, it's speed density not
mass air though, but it's still SEFI.

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...

SNIP!!
> not going to even jump at that bait just yet. But where did he get a
> SEFI
> '87 F150?

> SNIP!!!

>  Phred
>  95 F150 4X4 gasoline or propane consumer 5.0L, 5-speed. Only 13-17
> mpg and
> still claim earth as home.
>
________________________________________________________________
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Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 13:29:25 -0500
Subject: Re: 4x4 hub switching
From: Chris Hinckley <chink28 juno.com>

I don't chirp in much but $160 is way too much.  I converted my 92 bronco
some years ago, but the last I looked you can get a pair of warn premiums
for under $100.

Cheers,
Chris Hinckley
00 - TD Excursion
95 - F150 Ext. Cab 4x4
92 - Bronco/ Stroked 393 - Mass Air Conversion w/GT40 - Lifted and Locked
73 - Bronco (project trail beast)

On Mon, 27 Nov 2000 10:34:11 -0700 Fred Moreno <fmoreno dualcurve.com>
writes:
> Jason wrote:
>
>         Auto hubs would be the last resort.  They suck... for lack
> of a
> better way
>         of putting it. On the first snow storm of the year, I pulled
> into
> the
>         driveway in 2wd when I came home.  When I went to leave the
> next
> morning,
>         one wheel had froze to the ground and the other just spun.
> I pulled
> the
>         transfer case into 4 wheel and it still just sat there.
> Stuck in my
> own
>         driveway!!! It was pathetic.  I'm buying the Warn hub
> conversion as
> soon as
>         I can get over the $160 price tag.  Unless someone wants to
> trade
> some 3
>         bolt Dana 50/ 60 manual hubs for for my automatics.
>
> Phred chips in:
>
>  YES I agree 100% with you, auto's suck (applies to transmissions
> also, but
> that's another posting).
>  Had my '95 with autolocking hubs and with less than 30K miles on
> the truck
> I was stuck at the bottom of a very steep arroyo. Transfer case was
> in
> 4-low, tried 4-high and still only the back tires spun on the rocky
> slopes.
>  Most embarrassing getting pulled out by a Dakota with a very
> expressive and
> opinionated owner.
>  Apparently my OEM auto locking hubs wore down such that there was
> not
> enough metal to create a long enough pushing action to engage the
> hubs.
> Dealership wanted somewhere in the ballpark of $300 to replace.
>  I bought my WARN premium manual hubs for right around $95 for both
> sides. I
> would certainly check around because $160 seems way to high. They
> were easy
> to install once I figured out there was an "invisible" ring keeping
> everything inside the hub.
>  Love the manuals hubs, there is no doubt when they are engaged, I
> had
> doubts when the autos were still in. The very expressive and
> opinionated
> Dakota owner still claims that getting out is so inconvenient, I
> just remind
> him that I don't wear a skirt so what's the problem?
>
> Phred
> '95 F-150 4X4 199.8K miles!!!
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>

------------------------------

From: rspasoje mindspring.com
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 13:45:35 -0500
Subject: Re: It's not physics, it's magic!

Unless you modified it from stock your '87 Bronco is NOT SEFI.  It is a multiport system, with one injector per cylinder, but the injectors are fired in banks, with all the injectors on one side firing at once.  If you look at the wiring harness for the injectors you will see they are daisy-chained together.  The only true SEFI (where each injector fires independantly) will be found on later mass-air trucks, or if you have installed an SVO mass-air conversion.

Rade
80-96-list ford-trucks.com wrote:
> Um, he probably got it from Ford.  My '87 is SEFI, it's speed density not
mass air though, but it's still SEFI.

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...

SNIP!!
> not going to even jump at that bait just yet. But where did he get a
> SEFI
> '87 F150?

> SNIP!!!

>  Phred
>  95 F150 4X4 gasoline or propane consumer 5.0L, 5-speed. Only 13-17
> mpg and
> still claim earth as home.
>
________________________________________________________________
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Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 11:56:05 -0700
From: Kris Heslop <kris_heslop mediaplan.com>
Subject: Lights out

Hello all, I have been on the digest for a year and a half, but have not
sent anything for about a year.

I have a bad situation with my headlights going out in a '92 E-350 Club
Wagon.  I thought I heard of this before but was not able to locate on
the FTE site through the archive search.

It appears to me to include both the headlights and parking lights.  The
dash lights stay on.  They stay off for a few seconds, sometimes
longer.  I can still "flash to pass" although when I return to normal,
the lights may or may not be on again.  Playing with the lamp switch
appears to help sometimes, but not always.

At first I thought it might be a short that was bump sensitive, but I
have since determined that the bumps do not cause it to go out or come
back.

Additional background:

Two days before this occurred, I had the water pump replaced.

A few weeks ago I noticed a humming/buzz from the headlamp switch one
day.  I turned off the lights (it was during the day) and then later
turned them on again, and the noise stopped and did not return.  I have
not heard the humming/buzz at all since that time.

I am not certain if it is still making other noises, since I have only
had this happen while on the road which makes it too noisy to hear, and
too difficult to lean over to listen while driving.  I think that it is
making some noises though.

I run 80 watt low beams and 100 watt high beams.  It occurs on either
setting, usually after being on a few minutes to hour.  Outside air
temperature was between 17-35 degrees f.  I attempted to check the
breaker/relay for the lights, but found no location listed when I went
to the owners manual at the gas station.  Previously thought I had seen
it listed in the book.

Previously I have run up to 12 hours straight at night, on many
occasions, with no problems, so I do not really think it is overloading,
although it could be a breaker failing.

If this is the switch how do I get it in and out?

Thanks for any help and ideas.

Kris H
Alpine UT
'92 E-350 351W  164k


------------------------------

From: "David Anderson (EUS)" <EUSDRAN am1.ericsson.se>
Subject: Re: Location of Knock Sensor
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 12:59:14 -0500

Thanks Rex,  I'll have a look there.

In case it's different, anyone else have a location on '90 and newer?

David

>I can't remember for sure but it seems like the knock sensor on the 87 I
had with the 4.9L was located on the side of the block, forward of the
distributor and coil.
Maybe someone else can be more specific.
Rex<




------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 14:44:02 EST
Subject: Re: It's not physics, it's magic!


I would have to agree with Rade on this one guys. I have looked at the
service manuals from Ford that I have available. The injectors are bank fired
up until the middle of the production run in 1994. when they switched full
time over to Massair.
Better to be a racer for a moment, than a spectator for a lifetime
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
NLOC #484
2000 #4 Top Truck
1999 #2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html
ICQ#58060858

In a message dated 11/27/2000 1:46:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rspasoje mindspring.com writes:


> Unless you modified it from stock your '87 Bronco is NOT SEFI.  It is a
> multiport system, with one injector per cylinder, but the injectors are
> fired in banks, with all the injectors on one side firing at once.  If you
> look at the wiring harness for the injectors you will see they are
> daisy-chained together.  The only true SEFI (where each injector fires
> independently) will be found on later massair trucks, or if you have
> installed an SVO massair conversion.
>







------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 14:47:02 EST
Subject: Re: Lights out


Kris,
I would try replacing the headlight switch. My truck was doing the same thing
you describe for about a week before the switch fried completely.
Also, I have a service manual for your 1992. Contact me off list if
interested.


Better to be a racer for a moment, than a spectator for a lifetime
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
NLOC #484
2000 #4 Top Truck
1999 #2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html
ICQ#58060858



------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 14:48:41 EST
Subject: Re: Location of Knock Sensor


In a message dated 11/27/2000 2:00:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
EUSDRAN am1.ericsson.se writes:


> In case it's different, anyone else have a location on '90 and newer?
>

Mine is located in the WORST possible place. On my 1994, its on the back side
of the block, behind the manifolds and emmisions components. PITA to get to
without pulling the upper intake, unless you have 6 fingers and are triple
jointed at the elbows.
Better to be a racer for a moment, than a spectator for a lifetime
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
NLOC #484
2000 #4 Top Truck
1999 #2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html
ICQ#58060858



------------------------------

From: dstauffa csc.com
Subject: Replacing oil pan gasket on 91 F150
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 12:16:06 -0800

Hello fellow listers,

I am a newbie to this list and need some helpful advice.  I own a 1991 F150
with the 5.8L EFI engine.  My oil pan gasket is bad and I'm loosing about a
quart of oil a week.  The major dripping is around the rearmost area next
to where the engine mates up with the transmission.   The dealer want
$500.00 to change the gasket.  I consider that outrageous.  I've replaced
the oil pan gaskets in my other cars, so feel capable of handling the job
on the F150.   In reading the Haynes manual, it mentions that I have to
unbolt the engine from the mounts and raise it a couple of inches.  That
does not concern me too much.  But the book also says to remove the EFI
plenum (sp).  This is something I most definitely do not want to do.

My question is this, can anyone offer some advice on how a shade tree
mechanical like myself can change the oil pan gasket without having to
disassemble "half" my engine to do so?

TIA,

Dave
1991 F150 5.8L EFI


------------------------------

From: MRStace84 aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 15:31:21 EST
Subject: Re: Replacing oil pan gasket on 91 F150

In a message dated 11/27/00 3:18:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dstauffa csc.com writes:

<< My question is this, can anyone offer some advice on how a shade tree
mechanical like myself can change the oil pan gasket without having to
disassemble "half" my engine to do so?
 >>


I had the experience of trying to change the oil pan gasket on an 87 5.0 2WD.
I had to remove the plenum, just unbolting the motor mounts would not allow
me to have enough clearence to remove the oil pan.  Removing the plenum isn't
as bad as it sounds, there should be just 6 bolts holding it on, the worst
one is the middle "inside" bolt that's actually a torques head screw, and
naturally there are some hoses that have to be disconnected. (sorry it's been
a while and I don't remember all the details).  Maybe someone else will have
some better advice.

Stacy Fisher
84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4

------------------------------

From: rexbennett eibiz.net
Subject: Re: Location of Knock Sensor
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 15:23:22 -0600

I think this is true for the V8's (my 95 5.0L has it in the same place) but
I think all of the 4.9L engines have the knock sensor on the side of the
block like my original post. This was about a 4.9L wasn't it?

OK I went and looked at a company truck we have here, 94 F150 with the 4.9L
and I was close the knock sensor is on the side of the block between the
distributor and the coil not in front of the coil, or at least I'm 98% sure
it's the knock sensor.

I don't remember if your original post says but why are you looking at the
knock sensor anyway?

-----Original Message-----
From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of FLR150 aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 1:49 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Location of Knock Sensor



In a message dated 11/27/2000 2:00:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
EUSDRAN am1.ericsson.se writes:


> In case it's different, anyone else have a location on '90 and newer?
>

Mine is located in the WORST possible place. On my 1994, its on the back
side
of the block, behind the manifolds and emmisions components. PITA to get to
without pulling the upper intake, unless you have 6 fingers and are triple
jointed at the elbows.
Better to be a racer for a moment, than a spectator for a lifetime
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
NLOC #484
2000 #4 Top Truck
1999 #2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html
ICQ#58060858


=============================================================
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Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 13:43:25 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: It's not physics, it's magic!



kb9odg.mark juno.com wrote:
>
> Um, he probably got it from Ford.  My '87 is SEFI, it's speed density not
> mass air though, but it's still SEFI.
>

Not sure on 6's, but all the 8's I've seen were not SEFI. Didn't think
they went to SEFI until 96/95 Cali (possibly a little earlier on 302's).
All bets off in Cali.

                           OX

> - Mark Reimers KB9ODG
> '87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...
>
> SNIP!!
> > not going to even jump at that bait just yet. But where did he get a
> > SEFI
> > '87 F150?
>
> > SNIP!!!
>
> >  Phred
> >  95 F150 4X4 gasoline or propane consumer 5.0L, 5-speed. Only 13-17
> > mpg and
> > still claim earth as home.
> >
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 13:38:21 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: 4x4 hub switching



Chris Hinckley wrote:
>
> I don't chirp in much but $160 is way too much.  I converted my 92 bronco
> some years ago, but the last I looked you can get a pair of warn premiums
> for under $100.
>

D50/60 locking hubs may be a lot more than D44 stuff??

                          OX


> Cheers,
> Chris Hinckley
> 00 - TD Excursion
> 95 - F150 Ext. Cab 4x4
> 92 - Bronco/ Stroked 393 - Mass Air Conversion w/GT40 - Lifted and Locked
> 73 - Bronco (project trail beast)
>
> On Mon, 27 Nov 2000 10:34:11 -0700 Fred Moreno <fmoreno dualcurve.com>
> writes:
> > Jason wrote:
> >
> >         Auto hubs would be the last resort.  They suck... for lack
> > of a
> > better way
> >         of putting it. On the first snow storm of the year, I pulled
> > into
> > the
> >         driveway in 2wd when I came home.  When I went to leave the
> > next
> > morning,
> >         one wheel had froze to the ground and the other just spun.
> > I pulled
> > the
> >         transfer case into 4 wheel and it still just sat there.
> > Stuck in my
> > own
> >         driveway!!! It was pathetic.  I'm buying the Warn hub
> > conversion as
> > soon as
> >         I can get over the $160 price tag.  Unless someone wants to
> > trade
> > some 3
> >         bolt Dana 50/ 60 manual hubs for for my automatics.
> >
> > Phred chips in:
> >
> >  YES I agree 100% with you, auto's suck (applies to transmissions
> > also, but
> > that's another posting).
> >  Had my '95 with autolocking hubs and with less than 30K miles on
> > the truck
> > I was stuck at the bottom of a very steep arroyo. Transfer case was
> > in
> > 4-low, tried 4-high and still only the back tires spun on the rocky
> > slopes.
> >  Most embarrassing getting pulled out by a Dakota with a very
> > expressive and
> > opinionated owner.
> >  Apparently my OEM auto locking hubs wore down such that there was
> > not
> > enough metal to create a long enough pushing action to engage the
> > hubs.
> > Dealership wanted somewhere in the ballpark of $300 to replace.
> >  I bought my WARN premium manual hubs for right around $95 for both
> > sides. I
> > would certainly check around because $160 seems way to high. They
> > were easy
> > to install once I figured out there was an "invisible" ring keeping
> > everything inside the hub.
> >  Love the manuals hubs, there is no doubt when they are engaged, I
> > had
> > doubts when the autos were still in. The very expressive and
> > opinionated
> > Dakota owner still claims that getting out is so inconvenient, I
> > just remind
> > him that I don't wear a skirt so what's the problem?
> >
> > Phred
> > '95 F-150 4X4 199.8K miles!!!
> > =============================================================
> > To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> > Please remove this footer when replying.
> >
> >
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: It's not physics, it's magic!
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 15:05:27 -0800



> Um, he probably got it from Ford.  My '87 is SEFI, it's speed density not
> mass air though, but it's still SEFI.

From the factory, the 87 truck engine is a batch fire system with speed
density.  It fires 1-3-5 and  2-4-6 separately.
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke
"As fast as necessary, as slow as possible"



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 18:09:21 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: FTE server downtime

Sometime in the next 48 hours, Ford Truck Enthusiasts will
complete it's move to its new server.

After the move, the message boards and mailing lists on
the old server will be disabled and DNS records will be
updated to point to the new server.

The new server will be immediately active.  However, DNS
records take time to propagate across the Internet.  Your
hosting company may take 8-72 hours before it points to
the new server.  Until your host's DNS gets the changes,
you will not be able to send email to our lists nor will
you be able to use the message boards.  You will, however,
continue to receive list mail correctly.

Your patience in this matter is appreciated.

Thanks,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts






------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 18:31:56 -0500
From: Theodore D Mills <n3kwq martnet.com>
Subject: Re: Lights out

It's probably the headlight switch.

The circuit breaker for the headlights is built into the switch.

The flash to pass feature feeds from a fuse usually, which explains why it
still works.



Ted

N3KWQ
Aston, Pa

84 Mustang GT (in pieces)
85 Ranger XL 2WD 2.8L
91 F-250 XLT Lariat SC 4X4x460
94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L

------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: 4x4 hub switching
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 19:51:41 -0800



> I don't chirp in much but $160 is way too much.  I converted my 92 bronco
> some years ago, but the last I looked you can get a pair of warn premiums
> for under $100.

It was around $100 for the 1 ton style hubs and $60 for the conversion kit.
There is a difference between the manual and auto locking hubs outer lock
nut that requires some things to be changed according to Warn and a couple
of the wrecking yards I tried to swap the autos for.   I only paid $50 for
the 1/2 ton style Warn premiums for my Bronco.

Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke
"As fast as necessary, as slow as possible"




------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 23:47:32 EST
Subject: TTB parts...

   I had a rock jump out in front of my truck this weekend whle I was
hunting, and I will be in need of some parts...  anyone know of a wrecked
80-96 F150 or Bronco around?  I did the old Dukes of Hazzard trick after
hitting this 3 ft rock in high grass at about 20mph...  cut it left, truck
falls, now going towards drainage ditch, cut it right to avoid ditch and end
up in ditch on right side of road...  Limped her home the 5 miles to the
cabin while my two brothers continued to laugh and checked for damage.
Injuries include:

RH Radius arm, Rim and 33x12.50 BFG, entire steering linkage now looks like a
straightened paper clip, pitman arm, busted steering box (only turns right
now) possible bent RH beam, and sprained fingers and wrist.

Overall, it was a good weekend...  :)

Joe in CT
Lost in Jersey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 17:59:27 +1100
From: les williams <lesw cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: El Paso "Inventor"


G'Day Nephew Phred,

I thoroughly enjoyed you post on the 'inventor', I guess that explains
in part, why the propane industry is in such dis-array. It could make a
good movie script, but no one will believe it!! ;-))
I printed out the post and and it was discussed at friday arvo's
'knitting circle', the incredible part to me was, one of the guy's
present is a specialist S/Steel welder/fabricator, & ex-pat Canadian but
not a motor mechanic, was involved in trying to manufacture, out of
stainless steel, a petrol heating devise some 15 years ago. The plans
were supposed to have come from some professor type person from Texas.
>From what he can recall the devise  used a series of S/Steel tubes &
plates to raise the petrol temperature to about 850-900f, off the
exhaust. Apparently he had considerable difficulty achieving this target
temperature consistantly. His memory of how exactly the very
dangerous petrol vapour now under pressure, was supposed to be
controlled by the carby is unclear, but when he reported back to the
professor how near he was to actually trying to make it run, was told to
stop all work on the project, immediatly. My mental picture of a carby
being used to control hot petrol vapour is one of total disaster.
Exciting stuff !!!


regards

[uncle]Les, lost in the land of Oz ....


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