Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 80-96-list); Sat, 25 Nov 2000 21:51:52 -0500 (EST)
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 21:51:52 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #245
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80-96-list Digest Fri, 24 Nov 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 245

In This Issue:
Re: PCV valve specifications
Re: Alignment question
4x4 hub switching
Re: 4x4 hub switching
Re: Front end Alignment

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 09:34:31 -0800
From: chuck & kathy sanborn <slammer deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: PCV valve specifications

At 09:34 PM 11/22/00 -0600, you wrote:
>. I am willing to experiment with different ones until I find one that
>will keep up, but not mess up engine operation too much.

Hey Jim,
I am not absolutely positive about this but I was told that PCV valves are
pretty much engine specific, so that whatever
the book calls out, that's what ya gotta get.
Chuck




Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
86 F150 300 cu in six banger
FAX 1-310-822-6815


------------------------------

From: b-khanson juno.com
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 14:53:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Alignment question

>  From: "John F Brock" <brocker ix.netcom.com>
>  Subject: Alignment question

> ...they ran out of adjustment. Want to replace a bushing
> as a result.

This is the normal/usual service procedure.

> Also told me I need new ball joints on the left side...
> IS it normal to put ball joints on at 60K mi? I don't think so.

Based on my  6 1/2  years experience in the service department
of a large Ford dealership, I would say this is completely within
the realm of "normal".  Saw A LOT of ball joints replaced much
sooner than  60K.  You may want to shop for price, but I would
strongly suggest doing both the bushings and the ball joints.

Bruce Hanson
Apple Valley, MN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 17:44:28 -0500 (EST)
From: "tstaples wpi.edu" <tstaples WPI.EDU>
Subject: 4x4 hub switching

Hello all,

I have a question that I was wondering if any of you could answer.

I have a 1990 ford F250 4x4 truck that has the type of hubs that you need
to get out of the truck and turn the switch on the front wheels in order
to get in and out of 4x4 mode

I was wondering how badly it would hurt the truck if i were to just leave
it in 4x4 mode and only have to shift on the floor when iwanted to use it.
The winter is coming up and i probably wont want to have to get in and out
of my truck every time i need to get over a patch of ice or up a snow
bank..

I was just wondering if this would tear my trucks rear end and gear boxes
all to hell if i were to leave it locked..

please let me know

thanks
-Todd

( )
(                                 )
(          Todd Staples           )
( Worcester Polytechnic Institute )
(          EE/ECE Major           )
(    email: tstaples wpi.edu       )
(  work email: staples nexen.com   )
(     work tele: 978-929-3007     )
(                                 )
( )



On Fri, 24 Nov 2000, Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server wrote:

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> Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck  Mailing  List
>
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>
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> ==========================================================
>
> ------------------------------------
> 80-96-list Digest Thu, 23 Nov 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 244
>
> In This Issue:
> Re: Spindle design inconsistency?
> Alignment question
> Re: Alignment question
> aluminum welding
> Information on?
> Re: aluminum welding
> Re: Spindle design inconsistency?
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: Brazzadog aol.com
> Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 23:58:41 EST
> Subject: Re: Spindle design inconsistency?
>
> Maybe there's more of need for  8 lugs on the rear axle (where most of the
> load is) and they did the same on the front so one spare would work for all.
>
> Ben Williams
> '71 Wagoneer
> '78 F-250 4x4
> '88 Bronco
>
> > From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
> >  Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 08:52:48 -0700
> >
> >  Ok, I got the spindle off last night, but after thinking about it, its
> >  design seems rather inconsistent -- there are only 5 studs holding the
> >  spindle to the steering knuckle, yet there are 8 beefy lug bolts holding
> the
> >  wheel to the hub.
> >
> >  This doesn't seem to make sense from a strength standpoint.  Why have lugs
> >  that are twice the strength of the bolts holding on the spindle?  It's not
> >  like the lugs aren't sprung weight and the spindle bolts are, nor is it
> >  purely a matter of engine power, as I don't think the engine in my F-250 is
> >  more powerful than that in the F-150's with 5 lug nuts.
> >
> >  Any thoughts?
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: "John F Brock" <brocker ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Alignment question
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 09:21:48 -0500
>
> I have a '95 with about 60K miles. Went to a Firestone dealer for a wheel
> alignment. Was told they could only successfuly set toe in per factory spec.
> Caster and camber are close, but they ran out of adjustment. Want to replace
> a bushing as a result. I made sure they used th espec for a Lightning. Also
> told me I need new ball joints on the left side...not an emergency, but
> noticable wear. Estimate was just over $300 for the bushing and two ball
> joints. Didn't do it. Want a second opinion.
>
> Anyone know anything about a bushing that would affect alignment?
> IS it normal to put ball joints on at 60K mi? I don't think so.
>
> John
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: FLR150 aol.com
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 11:45:30 EST
> Subject: Re: Alignment question
>
>
> In a message dated 11/23/2000 9:27:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> brocker ix.netcom.com writes:
>
>
> >
>
> Yes, On the spindle, below the spring perch, there is what is called a
> Concentric Bushing. Ford put a nonadjustable bushing in there from the
> factory. But with wear, there needs to be an adjustable in there for an
> adjustment to be had. They sell those bushings in .5 degree increments. The
> one you probably need is the 1.5 degree. A 2 degree will be too big. I will
> send you a diagram of where it is, so you will know.
>
>
> Better to be a racer for a moment, than a spectator for a lifetime
> Later,
> Wayne Foy
> 94 Flareside SC
> NLOC #484
> 2000 #4 Top Truck
> 1999 #2 Top Truck
> Atlanta GA
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html
> ICQ#58060858
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 12:57:52 -0800
> From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
> Subject: aluminum welding
>
>  Has anyone tried "welding"aluminum with a propane torch and aluminum
> rods?
>  I have seen a few guys selling kits with different rods,instructions
> etc.at swap meets and I even saw a infomecial for a kit.
>  It appears to be more like soldering,brazing or sweating than true
> welding.
> but it seemed to be a stromg bond.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: "The Casey's" <freebird2 home.com>
> Subject: Information on?
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 20:14:40 -0600
>
>
> Anyone have any information on a air compressor by the name of Charger Air Pro 5hp 20 gallon made by Devibiss Air Power Company. Just recieved this one in a trade it's in great condition looking for a manual so I can keep it that way Thanks for the help.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 22:35:14 -0500
> From: Martin Horne <flatspin optonline.net>
> Subject: Re: aluminum welding
>
> Yeah, I tried them a few years ago and have a bunch of rods in the back of
> a closet for emergencies. The people demonstrating are pretty good - It
> isn't as easy as they make it look but with practice it works reasonably well.
>
> The alloy melts at a fairly low temp first go around, but once it cools it
> seems to take a lot more heat to melt it again. I have sucessfully "added
> metal" to objects that broke and then machined the new material back down,
> but bear in mind there are limitations. The end result is only as good as
> the original metal, so white metal castings don't work well. Best results
> are obtained from working on machined aluminum components.
>
> In all, it is certainly  a lot easier than learning to tig weld, and much
> less expensive to try. But for white metal, good old JB Weld is my preference.
>
>
>
> At 12:57 PM 11/23/00 -0800, you wrote:
> > Has anyone tried "welding"aluminum with a propane torch and aluminum
> >rods?
> > I have seen a few guys selling kits with different rods,instructions
> >etc.at swap meets and I even saw a infomecial for a kit.
> > It appears to be more like soldering,brazing or sweating than true
> >welding.
> >but it seemed to be a stromg bond.
> >=============================================================
> >To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> >Please remove this footer when replying.
> >
>
> Martin Horne
> '86 Bronco
> Long Island, NY
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: "Radoje Spasojevic" <rspasoje mindspring.com>
> Subject: Re: Spindle design inconsistency?
> Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 09:39:54 -0800
>
> It isn't the bolts that are holding the truck up.  There is a flange on the
> back of the spindle that fits into the opening on the knuckle, the bolts are
> pretty much there just to keep the spindle on the knuckle.
>
> Radoje Spasojevic
> "Nerves of Steel, Brains of Chipmunk"
> '90XLT-351W-AOD-BW1356-Dana44-Ford8.8(Lockright)-3.55
> '83Custom-300-Clark4spd-NP208-Dana44-Ford8.8"-3.08
> '76F-250 Crew Cab-390FE-NP435-NP205-Dana 60-Dana 60-4.10
> '87Eddie Bauer-No engine-No tranny-No t-case-No axles-No front clip
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org
> --Rubicon tested--
> **********************************
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Atkinson, Chip <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com' <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
> Date: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 7:59 AM
> Subject: [80-96-list] Spindle design inconsistency?
>
>
> >Ok, I got the spindle off last night, but after thinking about it, its
> >design seems rather inconsistent -- there are only 5 studs holding the
> >spindle to the steering knuckle, yet there are 8 beefy lug bolts holding
> the
> >wheel to the hub.
> >
> >This doesn't seem to make sense from a strength standpoint.  Why have lugs
> >that are twice the strength of the bolts holding on the spindle?  It's not
> >like the lugs aren't sprung weight and the spindle bolts are, nor is it
> >purely a matter of engine power, as I don't think the engine in my F-250 is
> >more powerful than that in the F-150's with 5 lug nuts.
> >
> >Any thoughts?
> >
> >Chip
> >=============================================================
> >To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> >Please remove this footer when replying.
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #244
> ***********************************
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------------------------------

From: PSales264 aol.com
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 19:52:42 EST
Subject: Re: 4x4 hub switching


I don't think it will tear things up. I've done it that way for years if the
roads get real dry for a while I unlock them. but when things get wintery
again in they go. As long as you are going along with all wheels moving and
at the same speed just a pull of the handle and 4X4 it is. This will cause a
small amount of wear and I'm sure will cost fuel mileage. But if you need it
in a heart beat and it's there so what. good luck
PHIL

90 F350,7.3, 5spd 4X4 dually



------------------------------

From: "John Thornton" <Wrenchman peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Front end Alignment
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 21:49:48 -0500


   I just recently had  my front end checked for alignment.  The mechanic told me they made two kinds of bushings.  One is the standard  that comes in degree increments.  The second is a fully adjustable with a bushing inside of a bushing so the caster and camber can both be adjusted.  NAPA sells them for about $35.  I checked Wrenchhead.com and they had them for about $22.  It's a MOOG part.  The no. on the box is K8666.  It cost me about an extra $30 on each side to have them setup but hopefully I will not be eating up the outside of my tires any more.                                                                                                              Pat       93F150sc 5.0   91 Aerovan  94 Probe  66 Mustang(5% restored ,10% rusted away) ....


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