Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 80-96-list); Thu, 26 Oct 2000 06:20:11 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 06:20:11 -0400 (EDT)
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To: 80-96-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #225
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80-96-list Digest Tue, 24 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 225

In This Issue:
ADMIN: Major web site addition
Front hub disassembly help...
Ford hit with new lawsuit over ignition issue
Re: Ford hit with new lawsuit over ignition issue (s
Gas Tank removal
Re: Gas Tank removal
Re: Gas Tank removal (Addendum)
Re: Front hub disassembly help...
Re: Shocks

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 21:29:32 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Major web site addition

Ford Truck Enthusiasts slam dunks the competition with the
addition of over 400 photos of 2000, 2001 and 2002 Ford
trucks, vans and SUVs to the web site.

The new "Gallery" can be viewed either through the main
page "Picture Gallery" link or the link under the
"Recent Site Additions/News" on the main page:

<a href="http://www.ford-trucks.com">www.ford-trucks.com</a>

Enjoy!

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Front hub disassembly help...
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 08:56:17 -0600

Greetings,

The front brakes on my 1980 F-250 4x4 needed replacing and I also need
(want?) to get the rotors turned.  To get them off, I need to disassemble
the front hub and am finding that difficult.  I got the locking mechanism
out and am now trying to take the nuts that hold the bearings into the hub
and on the axle.  There is what appears to be a lock ring that is circular
with a single 1/4" x 1/8" notch on the edge.

I made a tool to unscrew the thing but the tool broke because the ring was
so tight.  This was rather surprising as I didn't think that a lock ring
with only a single notch would be on that tight.  Of course I was using a
piece of cast iron pipe, which isn't what one would call strong by any
stretch of the imagination, but I thought it would be good enough.

Anyway, the questions that I am requesting help with are whether or not the
threads on the right side of the vehicle are perhaps left handed?  Am I
trying to unscrew the wrong thing?  Is this perhaps a key way in a slot on
the axle and what I should be trying to unscrew is the thing behind it that
has the six notches in it instead?

The pictures in both the haynes and chilton's manuals are either
non-existant or not detailed enough to figure this one out and the hub is
packed with grease, making it hard to tell what's going on. (yeah, I could
(and should) spend some time cleaning the whole thing out anyway...)

Thanks again for your help, past, present, and future.

Chip

------------------------------

From: rexbennett eibiz.net
Subject: Ford hit with new lawsuit over ignition issue
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 10:22:00 -0500

Anyone seen this?  I know there have been a lot of problems with these
distributor mounted TFI modules, been there myself.


http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.just-auto.com/news_detail.asp?art=15774


------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Re: Ford hit with new lawsuit over ignition issue (s
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 09:30:52 -0600

Why Ford?  Why not Microsoft??? :-)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: rexbennett eibiz.net [mailto:rexbennett eibiz.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 9:22 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Ford hit with new lawsuit over ignition issue
>
>
> Anyone seen this?  I know there have been a lot of problems with these
> distributor mounted TFI modules, been there myself.
>
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.just-auto.com/news_detail.asp?art=15774
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>

------------------------------

From: "James" <Hiers_James colstate.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 11:33:11 -0500
Subject: Gas Tank removal

Hey Chip,

I for one would like any pointers, gotchas or advice on removing the
rear gas tank.

Thanks,
James Hiers

> An alternative is to lower the tank, remove the sending unit and connect it
> to the wires.  Move the float a bit and watch the gas gauge.  I can tell you
> how I lowered the tank on my truck if you are curious about that procedure.
>




------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Re: Gas Tank removal
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 10:21:17 -0600

Ok, here's what I did, but this is for the side tank, but it does definitely
apply.  These are arranged in more or less random order too. :-)

Use some non-absorbent type padding between the tank and the metal retention
straps.  I used 1/16" LDPE because I had some.

To get the tank down enough to get access to the sending unit, I used a
floor jack and two jack stands.  Jack the floor jack up until it supports
the weight of the tank.  Remove the straps that hold the tank in place and
put the jack stands up under the tank, but about 2"-3" below the tank.  Then
lower the tank gently with the floor jack.  You want to gradually lower the
tank keeping it pretty level so that it doesn't all slosh to one side and
spill gas everywhere.  Support the tank near one jack stand and lower the
stand 1-2".  Then lower the tank onto the stand.  Repeat with the jack on
the other jack stand until the tank is about 8" or so lower than the bed.
At this point you can reach the tank and take out the sending unit and test
it.  Oh, I forgot to mention that you must disconnect the filler hose.  The
advantage of doing it this way is that you have a controlled descent and you
can look for hoses, wires, and tubes that are getting pulled and disconnect
them before they get damaged.

For the side tank, I also put the 1/16" LDPE on top to pad it from the frame
too.  The plastic is somewhat stiff, so I replaced the stock tank strap
holding bolts with ones that were about 4" long that were fully threaded.
This allowed me to loosely connect the straps and "winch" them up with the
nuts.  That way I could force the plastic into the correct shape against the
tank which I didn't want to do using the floor jack and couldn't do with my
hands.

Another useful pointer on the "duh" level is to run it down until it's as
close to empty as you can get.  This is a little harder to do on a single
tank setup than with an auxilliary tank.

In retrospect, the things that saved me the most were the long bolts for the
straps and the careful lowering technique that I mentioned above.  Hope that
helps you get going.  Remember your eye protection and don't get your head
underneath things that'll drop. :-)

Chip



> -----Original Message-----
> From: James [mailto:Hiers_James colstate.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 10:33 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Gas Tank removal
>
>
> Hey Chip,
>
> I for one would like any pointers, gotchas or advice on removing the
> rear gas tank.
>
> Thanks,
> James Hiers
>
> > An alternative is to lower the tank, remove the sending
> unit and connect it
> > to the wires.  Move the float a bit and watch the gas
> gauge.  I can tell you
> > how I lowered the tank on my truck if you are curious about
> that procedure.
> >
>
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>

------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Re: Gas Tank removal (Addendum)
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 11:11:37 -0600

LDPE == Low Density Poly Ethylene

Sorry for leaving that out.

Chip

------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 16:55:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Front hub disassembly help...

go to your local tool house and buy a Dana 44 hub socket...  around $20.
That will properly remove and install the lock nuts.

Joe
Lost in Jersey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 04:14:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Kudulis <jimm excite.com>
Subject: Re: Shocks

Steer clear of the Edelbrock IAS Shocks.
The original equipment is better IMHO
JK
On Mon, 23 Oct 2000 12:56:43 -0400, 80-96-list ford-trucks.com wrote:

>  Hello.
>
>  I need a little advice if you could. The time has come and I need to
>  replace the shocks on my '86 Bronco Full Size. I have the standard two
>  shock rear and the quad setup in front.
>
>  I am looking for something that will be a little softer through the New
>  York Metro pot-holes, right now (with what look like monroe's) the whole
>  truck crashes over small lumps and I would like something a little
smoother
>  if possible.
>
>  I know it will never ride like a Caddy, but I rarely off-road with it so
>  don't see the need to suffer for 98% of my driving.
>
>  Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
>
>
>  Martin Horne
>  '86 Bronco
>  Long Island, NY
>  =============================================================
>  To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>  Please remove this footer when replying.
>





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------------------------------

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