In This Issue:
Diamond Plate Mud Flaps
Clunk When Starting Out
Differential seal replacement difficulty question
Fw: Fram filters
Re: rough idle
Help- Need Radiator
Shake, Rattle, and Roll
I was wondering if anyone knew of anywhere to get larger sized Diamond Plate
I have a 1990 F250 xlt lariat and i want to put some kickass diamond plate
mud flaps on it.. the ones i have on it now are too small..
if anyone has any they would like to sel or can cut me some, or can
recommend where i could get some then please contact me at
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From: flderoos mmm.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 09:59:50 -0500
Subject: Clunk When Starting Out
I recently inherited a 1993 F-150 long bed, automatic with the 302. The truck
had been a farm truck, so it was used for hauling heavy loads, like grain
wagons, and probably driven in 4WD more than many trucks. I've been able to fix
all of the problems except for two of them. The first one is a clunk whenever I
start out. It sounds as if the frame is shifting a bit. I've looked at the
u-joints (didn't take the drive line out) and they seem to be tight. The noise
is also a more dull clunk than I'm use to with bad u-joints. I've also looked
at the frame and can not see any place that it is moving. I know that there was
a service bulletin on loose frame rivets.
The only unusual observation I've made is that the large arm that goes from the
frame to the front axel on the drivers side does not seem to have as much of the
rubber doughnut showing as compared to a 1992 F-150 or as compared to the
passenger side. The number of threads showing on the end of the bolt (after the
nut) is the same on both sides and the same as on the 1992 F-150. I've tried
prying with a large bar and can not move anything, but I can put no where near
the force that starting and stopping does on the frame. I've also noticed that
after a long trip at highway speeds, the clunk is gone for several stop-start
cycles. I can also make it go away for a short time by either coasting to a
stop or using the parking brake rather than the normal foot brake. Has anyone
seen this or does anyone have any ideas???
The second problem is probably simpler. I have a noticeable roughness to the
engine when idling. It isn't continual, but comes and goes. I've replaced the
spark plugs, the plug wires, the cap, the rotor, the air filter and the fuel
filter with no change. It did seem that it might have run a little smoother for
a while after first changing the fuel filter. My guesses are that I either have
a leaking EGR valve so that exhaust is sometimes making it run lean at idle or
that the injectors are dirty. Perhaps when I changed the fuel filter and
rapidly released the fuel pressure, any dirt was temporarily blown back from the
injectors. Then after running it a while, it went back to running rough some
times. I've run several bottles of injector cleaner through it with no change.
Since I'm getting around 12 mpg in town and 15 mpg on the highway with 3.55
differentials, it seems to be running relatively well. Any suggestions???
Thanks for any help,
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 08:37:02 -0700
From: Steve Deis <steve avdec.com>
Subject: Shop manuals...
Other than Helm, two sources for shop manuals are...
Irv Bishko Auto Literature 800-544-3312
Faxon Auto Literature 800-458-2734
Both were recommended to me by Helm in April when I was trying to locate
a factory book for my '88 F-150.
Comparing Haynes/Chilton to the Ford manual is like night to day, and
the cost of the Ford set is both cheap compared to the value of the
truck and is a quick payoff if you use it once or twice. I'd keep
looking until you find one...they're out there.
Based on the oil seepage pattern, I believe I need to replace the oil seal
that goes around the drive/pinion shaft on the rear differential. From the
manual it looks like I could do the replacement without having to
disassemble the entire differential. Does anyone know if this is true, or
must I disassemble the entire thing to get the seal out and the new one in?
I think I finally got this right. Mailed it to the wrong address last time.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron & Madeline Trampe <telh frontiernet.net>
To: <listar ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 9:39 PM
Subject: Fram filters
> I'm sorry, I forgot to change the subject on this when I originally sent
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron & Madeline Trampe <telh frontiernet.net>
> To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 9:37 PM
> Subject: Re: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #201
> > <<<<<<<I agree that the Fram was a bad move, but I also think you're
> > in the
> > right direction when considering the PCV. I've seen high crankcase
> > on many Ch ^y's due to clogged PCV systems. (Bowtie PCV's are poorly
> > constructed, however, especially around the throttle body). Usually a
> > such as a poorly sealed valve cover won't lose as much oil as you
> > unless there is also high pressure involved, such as loss of crankcase
> > ventilation.
> > Terence Underwood
> > terenceu1 prodigy.net
> > '95 Bronco EB/351W/E4OD/BW1356/8>>>>>>>
> > I use Fram filters because of the "friction end". It is very hard to
> > the filter on my '96 Ranger V6 and also on my '91 Cavalier. With Frams I
> > get a grip on the thing. On my '00 Cherokee I6 its no problem. The
> > easy to change and I can use whatever I want there.
> > Ron Trampe
> > telh frontiernet.net
Hi Tim. That sounds like the problem I chased down a few years ago on my
'85. On mine, I was convinced it was a vacuum leak, but couldn't find it...
until I pulled the carb and put a straight-edge across the bottom. The base
plates on those P.O.S. Holley's will warp, and the cure is flat file and lots
of patience.... it can be made flat again. Check for vacuum leaks when the
engine is warmed up (including the shift modulator), and if you don't find a
leak....pull the carb.
<< I have an 86 F150 with a 351 and 4bbl. It starts and idles good but once
the truck has warmed up it idles rough while in gear and sitting still. I
am not sure what I need to adjust to fix this. >>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 20:08:32 -0700
From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: Help- Need Radiator
> Would any of you gentlemen know of a good source to purchase a radiator for
> my 93 E150 5.8 Club Wagon?
If you can set the truck down for a couple of days, take yours out and take it to
any good, competent radiator shop. Look in the yellow pages. They can fix yours
for a lot less than a new one costs. If your tank seam is leaking, they have the
tools to take the tank off, (have them "rod" out the core at this time, too) replace
the O-ring gasket, and properly crimp the tank back on. If it's a cracked plastic
tank, they will probably have a replacement part for it, too. If it's just a blown
O-ring (it's fairly common) it shouldn't cost you much more than around $75.00 to
have all this done. Good as new, and good for another 200,000 miles or so.
By the way, be sure to use new anti-freeze and distilled water mixed 50/50 to fill
'er back up. The pink anti-freeze is said to be less abrasive to the pump's seals.
As your parts man.
Marv Miller mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".
From: Craig.Wallace emotors.com
Subject: Shake, Rattle, and Roll
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:09:16 -0500
I've been off the list for a while (about a year), but I'm back. Have a
question regarding my engine. I have a '94 F150 w/ a 300 I-6. Truck
runs/looks great. But just recently I've noticed when accelerating
(typically uphill....perhaps greater load?) the engine wants to shake. I
can't seem to reproduce it going downhill, but will happen on a flat. Do
you think this could be related to the O2 sensor? Again, only happens
during acceleration. Speed doesn't matter.
Great to be back!
'94 F150 300 I-6
Please post the procedure for recalibrating the PSOM. I just had
Mastercraft 265/75 R15s put on my truck and need to do this very thing.
'94 F150 300 I-6
End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #202
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