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80-96-list Digest Mon, 25 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 201

In This Issue:
oil drain plug leak (460)
Help- Need Radiator
Re: Help- Need Radiator
Re: body lift and suspension lifts.
Re: body lift and suspension lifts.
Re: powerless truck
Re: oil drain plug leak (460)
Re: oil drain plug leak (460)
Frame repair advice anyone?
valvetrain chatter and losing oil
Re: valvetrain chatter and losing oil
Re: valvetrain chatter and losing oil
Re: valvetrain chatter and losing oil
Re: heater core r&r 87 F150
Manual or Automatic? (crossed)
92 F-250 Idles high

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: heater core r&r 87 F150
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 08:53:53 -0400
From: Almus Kenter <kenter head-cfa.harvard.edu>



Well... my heat is blowing steam.. I assume that means that
my heater core has given up the ghost.  Any words of wisdom
regarding removal and replacement?

Truck is 87 f150 Auto tranny, 302 engine. TIA

-almus
--

almus kenter
(617)495-7056
akenter cfa.harvard.edu
akenter nh.ultranet.com



------------------------------

From: Ledski aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:06:47 EDT
Subject: oil drain plug leak (460)

Simple question, I just changed the oil (Mobil 1) in my 94 F350 (460) last
week for the first time since I got it this summer and when I came back from
a trip this weekend, there was a dinner plate sized pool of oil under the oil
drain plug. The plug has a "plastic" ring as a washer. The question is how
tight should the plug be torqued? I tightened it a bit more, but am afraid
I'll crack that washer. Mobil 1 is too expensive to have leaking out like
that <grin>.
Tim

------------------------------

From: "Hammell, John" <JHammell us.imshealth.com>
Subject: Help- Need Radiator
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:30:38 -0400

Would any of you gentlemen know of a good source to purchase a radiator for
my 93 E150 5.8 Club Wagon? I've had a slow leak somewhere around the seam
below the cap, and now it's spraying out of there pretty good. Replaced
about a gallon the other day, and when I checked yesterday, it seemed to
hold it pretty good. That is, until I got up the road about mile, and the
transmission shifted real hard, and I got a check engine light come on. I
parked her, and after she cooled down, I added another gallon, drove her
home with no problems. Seems to leak a lot when she's warmed up.
I've had no problems with overheating so far. Also, I have never added
tranny fluid since I had her for about 20,000 miles, she's got about 108,000
on her now. Time for a fluid and filter change.
Thanks for any help!!!

John Hammell

67 F250 Camper Special (daily driver)
93 E150 Club Wagon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:20:51 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp <Larry.Schmiedekamp angelo.edu>
Subject: Re: Help- Need Radiator

John

Loosen the rad. cap this will keep you from loosing liquid. No pressure
build up to blow out. Then check with a radiator shop they should be able
to solder the leak unless its the plastic radiator then you might try the
new quick J B weld.

Larry


At 09:30 AM 9/25/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Would any of you gentlemen know of a good source to purchase a radiator for
>my 93 E150 5.8 Club Wagon? I've had a slow leak somewhere around the seam
>below the cap, and now it's spraying out of there pretty good. Replaced
>about a gallon the other day, and when I checked yesterday, it seemed to
>hold it pretty good. That is, until I got up the road about mile, and the
>transmission shifted real hard, and I got a check engine light come on. I
>parked her, and after she cooled down, I added another gallon, drove her
>home with no problems. Seems to leak a lot when she's warmed up.
>I've had no problems with overheating so far. Also, I have never added
>tranny fluid since I had her for about 20,000 miles, she's got about 108,000
>on her now. Time for a fluid and filter change.
>Thanks for any help!!!
>
>John Hammell
>
>67 F250 Camper Special (daily driver)
>93 E150 Club Wagon
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:35:45 EDT
Subject: Re: body lift and suspension lifts.

In a message dated 9/25/00 12:28:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time, sclemons vt.edu
writes:



<< I'm not saying you don't have one -- just wondering why you do. Is it

Canadian build? Early build '92? What's the tranny code, BTW?>>>
early is relative I guess... 10/91 and yes Canadian

<< Speaking of which, did you recalibrate the PSOM to the larger tire?>>
yes I did...  and if anyone on the list needs the procedure, contact me I
have it saved and will post it...

 I would get
>better mileage, but the hills here on the east coast require more
>downshifting than say, the midwest or so-cal.

<<Exactly why 16 seems so high. My mileage went up with bigger tires for
similar reasons, but the loss of gearing meant shifting out of OD much more
often to maintain highway speeds.>>

This is why I feel I would get better mileage on the flatter roads and higher
speed limits of the west, as compared the the slower speeds and hills of the
East coast.

The biggest reason I know it is the AOD is because Ford had to tell me,
because the had to rebuild the trans when the truck had just 32k on it, and
while it was in the shop they hit my truck with a utility body and had to
replace the door and rocker, and never replaced the GVWR or any other of the
door stickers.  Foward two years later, U-haul wouldn't rent me a car carrier
because the stickers were missing...  that's when I found out about the
trans, gearing, and the rest of the info that should have been on the door...

Later...

JOe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:51:31 -0400
From: Shawn <sclemons vt.edu>
Subject: Re: body lift and suspension lifts.

> early is relative I guess... 10/91 and yes Canadian

Aha.. That makes sense now. I guess Ford was a little late with the
swapping to E4OD for the Canadian trucks. Thanks for the info.



------------------------------

From: kb9odg.mark juno.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:51:20 -0500
Subject: Re: powerless truck

Well, thanks for everyone's help with my 'non'-running condition.  It
turned out to be the timing.  I pulled the coil plug out a little so I
could have enough acess to solder a new plug on it and in the process
turned the dist.  That little bolt was so loose, I'm supprised it didn't
change while driving.  Anyway, it's back on the road now and I'm in the
process of trying to find the cheapest high flow cat I can find.  I do
know that my cat is getting pluged, it smells.  Well, I'm off to class
now, I'm just so glad I didn't have to pay anything to fix it this time.

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 5.0L and AOD, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35" tires
...
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...

"Don't let go of that youthfull soul.  Despite body and mind your youth
will never die."  - Creed
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:06:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Derek Whiteside <derekw rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: oil drain plug leak (460)

I"m not sure of the spec on the oil plug; I probably torque mine to
about 20 ftlbs or so. Mine also has a plastic washer which became
cracked over the years (8 years, 95000 miles). With my last oil change,
I replaced the washer-- I found an "oil drain plug washer" in the
"Dorman" brand small parts at the auto parts store. You can get new
drain plugs, too...

cheers,

Derek Whiteside
Albany, OR
92 F150 XLT Supercab 4x2 300-5speed
--- Ledski aol.com wrote:
> Simple question, I just changed the oil (Mobil 1) in my 94 F350 (460)
> last
> week for the first time since I got it this summer and when I came
> back from
> a trip this weekend, there was a dinner plate sized pool of oil under
> the oil
> drain plug. The plug has a "plastic" ring as a washer. The question
> is how
> tight should the plug be torqued? I tightened it a bit more, but am
> afraid
> I'll crack that washer. Mobil 1 is too expensive to have leaking out
> like
> that <grin>.
> Tim
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


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------------------------------

From: "Steve" <sburch fast.net>
Subject: Re: oil drain plug leak (460)
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 16:23:03 -0400



> I"m not sure of the spec on the oil plug; I probably torque mine to
> about 20 ftlbs or so. Mine also has a plastic washer which became
> cracked over the years (8 years, 95000 miles). With my last oil change,
> I replaced the washer-- I found an "oil drain plug washer" in the
> "Dorman" brand small parts at the auto parts store. You can get new
> drain plugs, too...

Most auto parts stores have the brass washers too.  They seem to work better
and last longer than the plastic IMHO.

steve
80 F-150 4X4


------------------------------

From: "Steve" <sburch fast.net>
Subject: Frame repair advice anyone?
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:28:46 -0400


 Hi everyone.  Just found this site the other day and decided to join the mail list hoping to get some help for my truck.  The truck in question is a '80 F-150 4X4 shortbed.  I have a small part of the frame that had the undercoating come off a bit before I got it and I guess moisture got into it and the small section of the frame is rusted.  It seems solid but when tapping it you can tell that it isn't as thick as the rest of the frame is.  I was wondering what the best way to fix/reinforce it would be?  I have thought of welding a plate after cleaning the area and using some kind of rust stopper under the plate to keep out moisture or maybe like POR-15 epoxy?  I really don't know what my best route would be so any help/comments would be appreciated. I love my truck and don't want it to get too bad to drive it or make it unsafe.  Maybe I should just clean it up and paint it to stop any farther damage and just hope it's strong enough?  Thanks everyone!

steve
80 F-150 4X4 "Big Red"


------------------------------

From: "Phil" <imstobu stargate.net>
Subject: valvetrain chatter and losing oil
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:33:53 -0400


My 91 F150 with 300 6 cyl started acting up last night. It started off when I started it the valvetrain chattered for a sec till oil pressure was up, never did that before. I checked oil level, it was fine. drove it over to a friends and when I started it up to leave same thing for a sec or two then fine. about a mile from my house the valve train started to chatter, got it home and no oil on dipstick, but oil was blown out of the valve cover all over the engine. I do have a fram oil filter on it, I thought that the anti drain wasn't working and that was the noise on startup, the only other thing I can think of would be clogged pvc. I plan on changing to a different brand of oil filter and change pvc. What else should I look for? I don't have the time to look at it for a few days and hope it's something simple.

Phil Beattie
66 Ford F100
70 Ford F100
91 Ford F150 4x4




------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 22:42:00 EDT
Subject: Re: valvetrain chatter and losing oil

Phil,
I would check that valve cover gasket too.
Later,
Wayne Foy
NLOC #484
94 Flareside SC
#2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html
ICQ#58060858

------------------------------

From: "Rick Russell" <r.russell sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: valvetrain chatter and losing oil
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:51:31 -0600

as soon as I started reading your post and the symptoms I wondered if you
had put a Fram oil filter on ................
Rick Russell
Mechanic,  Caronport Service Centre
78 Bronco Ranger XLT 400 C6
78 Bronco Custom 400 C6
86 F250 4X4 sc 6.9L  banks turbo 4 spd
lots of others that don't matter here
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www3.sk.sympatico.ca/rrussell
-----Original Message-----
From: Phil <imstobu stargate.net>
To: 80-96-list <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, September 25, 2000 5:36 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] valvetrain chatter and losing oil


>
>My 91 F150 with 300 6 cyl started acting up last night. It started off when
I started it the valvetrain chattered for a sec till oil pressure was up,
never did that before. I checked oil level, it was fine. drove it over to a
friends and when I started it up to leave same thing for a sec or two then
fine. about a mile from my house the valve train started to chatter, got it
home and no oil on dipstick, but oil was blown out of the valve cover all
over the engine. I do have a fram oil filter on it, I thought that the anti
drain wasn't working and that was the noise on startup, the only other thing
I can think of would be clogged pvc. I plan on changing to a different brand
of oil filter and change pvc. What else should I look for? I don't have the
time to look at it for a few days and hope it's something simple.
>
>Phil Beattie
>66 Ford F100
>70 Ford F100
>91 Ford F150 4x4
>
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Terence Underwood" <terenceu1 prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: valvetrain chatter and losing oil
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 22:39:28 -0500

I agree that the Fram was a bad move, but I also think you're looking in the
right direction when considering the PCV.  I've seen high crankcase pressure
on many Ch ^y's due to clogged PCV systems.  (Bowtie PCV's are poorly
constructed, however, especially around the throttle body).  Usually a leak
such as a poorly sealed valve cover won't lose as much oil as you mention
unless there is also high pressure involved, such as loss of crankcase
ventilation.

Terence Underwood
terenceu1 prodigy.net

'95 Bronco EB/351W/E4OD/BW1356/8.8 3.55 open/tow pack.
'94 Probe GT/K&N cone/Dunlop SP5000/Redline lubed

----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil" <imstobu stargate.net>
To: "80-96-list" <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 6:33 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] valvetrain chatter and losing oil


>
> My 91 F150 with 300 6 cyl started acting up last night. It started off
when I started it the valvetrain chattered for a sec till oil pressure was
up, never did that before. I checked oil level, it was fine. drove it over
to a friends and when I started it up to leave same thing for a sec or two
then fine. about a mile from my house the valve train started to chatter,
got it home and no oil on dipstick, but oil was blown out of the valve cover
all over the engine. I do have a fram oil filter on it, I thought that the
anti drain wasn't working and that was the noise on startup, the only other
thing I can think of would be clogged pvc. I plan on changing to a different
brand of oil filter and change pvc. What else should I look for? I don't
have the time to look at it for a few days and hope it's something simple.
>
> Phil Beattie
> 66 Ford F100
> 70 Ford F100
> 91 Ford F150 4x4
>
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 21:38:29 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy <bobkennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: heater core r&r 87 F150

Piece of cake. Pull the glove box liner out. Look inside, see the
cover for the heater core. Remove bolts, remove cover, go back
under hood, remove heater hoses, then remove core. In and out, 30
minutes, tops.

Bob


Almus Kenter wrote:

> Well... my heat is blowing steam.. I assume that means that
> my heater core has given up the ghost.  Any words of wisdom
> regarding removal and replacement?
>
> Truck is 87 f150 Auto tranny, 302 engine. TIA
>
> -almus
> --
>
> almus kenter
> (617)495-7056
> akenter cfa.harvard.edu
> akenter nh.ultranet.com
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 06:48:53 -0500
From: Steve Randa <sranda ch-advertising.com>
Subject: Manual or Automatic? (crossed)

I just ordered the computer and mass air kit from FRPP. The only second
thought I have is whether I should have picked the manual instead of the
automatic computer since the application is a 351W with an AOD. Are the
manual boxes more aggressive? If I keep the automatic box I ordered, is
there something I'll be faced with later that would be a hassle and make
me wish I would have gone with the manual?

Steve Randa

------------------------------

From: "Stephen Hansen" <shansen ndak.net>
Subject: 92 F-250 Idles high
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 09:26:46 -0500


The truck started giving me some symptoms. Sometimes it wants to idle at 1100, it did 1500 one evening; normal is about 450. It's a 351 and had the idle control motor and throttle position sensor changed in June. It seems to want to do it late in the evening when the temperature is cooler (30's to 40's) but that hasn't been proven to be a real player yet.
Some have mentioned the mass air sensor; anyone clue me in on what it does? No check engine light yet.
This truck has been a great truck, the only problems I had was the O2 sensor 50,000; Clutch and front brakes 100,000; Both fuel pumps and idle control motor and throttle position sensor 115,000. Rear brakes and some rust 119,000. (see picture; bottom of page) http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/shansenw/Recent%20events.htm  Currently the truck is undergoing a "spruce up", new wheel well trim, Chrome rocker panels (to replace the chrome tape) repainting/painting of the visor, the piece between the bumper and grill, bug deflector and the body panel I just replaced. Pictures to be posted when all this is done (making good progress on the '50 too; see pictures at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/shansenw/My%20truck.htm ....


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