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80-96-list Digest Fri, 22 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 199

In This Issue:
Re: Repack front bearings on Bronco
Re: Repack front bearings on Bronco
erratic and rough idle
Re: Repack front bearings on Bronco
Haynes or Chilton
Re: Haynes or Chilton
Re: Haynes or Chilton
Re: erratic and rough idle
Re: body lift and suspension lifts.
powerless truck
Re: Bushing
Re: powerless truck
Re: body lift and suspension lifts.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 16:01:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joseph Osborn <josepho rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Repack front bearings on Bronco

Thanks for all of your replies. I used a double-cone
bearing packer tool on the bearings, and they were
nice and full. The grease was a marine/auto/farm type
of hi-temp synthetic that claimed to be the only
grease I'd ever need. I've been riding around for
almost a week now and it's been just fine. Sometimes
it's best to be a little paranoid, though.

Does anyone know of a source of restoration parts for
the late-'80's Ford trucks? A source other than Ford
itself? I'm looking for chrome and chromed plastic
parts mainly.

Thanks,
Joseph

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:33:48 -0400
From: Martin Horne <flatspin optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Repack front bearings on Bronco


Would that be Grille parts? If you sign up for the Whitney truck catalog they
have quite a selection of front and side trim, both flat black and "chromed".
Don't know the quality - never bought any. If you do get some let me know - I
will want them in due course.


At 04:01 PM 9/22/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Thanks for all of your replies. I used a double-cone
>bearing packer tool on the bearings, and they were
>nice and full. The grease was a marine/auto/farm type
>of hi-temp synthetic that claimed to be the only
>grease I'd ever need. I've been riding around for
>almost a week now and it's been just fine. Sometimes
>it's best to be a little paranoid, though.
>
>Does anyone know of a source of restoration parts for
>the late-'80's Ford trucks? A source other than Ford
>itself? I'm looking for chrome and chromed plastic
>parts mainly.
>
>Thanks,
>Joseph
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com/
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>



M.

<mailto:FlatSpin Optonline.Net>FlatSpin Optonline.Net


------------------------------

From: DTrowbridge webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:25:31 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: erratic and rough idle

ok guys, i think my carb is on its way out.  this is about my 85 F-150
300 I6.  a couple of days ago i started the truck and it sputtered and
died.  i turned the key again and it started right up, but it was
running real rough.  the truck will die when its cold unless i keep my
foot on the gas.  once it is warmed up it runs REAL rough and almost
dies but doesn't.  if i drive on the highway for about 20-30 minutes,
then pull off then it idles fine.  however it idles rough if i kill it
and restart it.

i looked at the carb to see if anything obvious was wrong and the only
thing i could see was the butterfly valve on top of the carb(don't know
its name, i'm an EFI guy) is not closing all the way at idle.  i can
manually close this valve and the truck starts to idle better, but its
still rougher than it was last week.

i have heard many bad things about the 1 bbl carbs goin bad all the time
and i'm wondering if mine is on the way out.  the carb has 166,000 miles
on it and has been rebuilt 10,000 miles ago, but i don't know if thats
the only time its been rebuilt.  HELP!!!!

David
85 F-150 300 I6  C4 3 speed auto


------------------------------

From: "Travis Moore" <webdoc arkansas.net>
Subject: Re: Repack front bearings on Bronco
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 23:15:39 -0500

Check out http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.millsupply.com they'll send you a catalog chock full of
trim parts for our old trucks.



------------------------------

From: "James" <Hiers_James colstate.edu>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:47:24 -0500
Subject: Haynes or Chilton

After a year of looking,  I have given up on trying to find an
"official" shop manual for my 1989 F150.  The two aftermarket manuals
that I can find are the Haynes and the Chilton.  The Haynes is about
$10 and the Chilton is twice that.  Can anyone tell me if the Chilton
is worth the extra money?

Thanks,
James Hiers




------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 10:01:06 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Haynes or Chilton

At 09:47 AM 9/23/00, you wrote:
>After a year of looking,  I have given up on trying to find an
>"official" shop manual for my 1989 F150.  The two aftermarket manuals
>that I can find are the Haynes and the Chilton.  The Haynes is about
>$10 and the Chilton is twice that.  Can anyone tell me if the Chilton
>is worth the extra money?
>
>Thanks,
>James Hiers
>

Official shop manuals can be found at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.helminc.com/
Worth the extra money and not full of inaccuracies like Haynes
and Chilton.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 07:11:51 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy <bobkennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Haynes or Chilton

Go here amd hurry. There is a set of Ford Factory Service Manuals on ebay.



http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=442074698


Bob


Ken Payne wrote:

> At 09:47 AM 9/23/00, you wrote:
> >After a year of looking,  I have given up on trying to find an
> >"official" shop manual for my 1989 F150.  The two aftermarket manuals
> >that I can find are the Haynes and the Chilton.  The Haynes is about
> >$10 and the Chilton is twice that.  Can anyone tell me if the Chilton
> >is worth the extra money?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >James Hiers
> >
>
> Official shop manuals can be found at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.helminc.com/
> Worth the extra money and not full of inaccuracies like Haynes
> and Chilton.
>
> Ken Payne
> Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 11:23:29 -0400
From: flagship <Flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: erratic and rough idle

It sounds like your choke pulloff (Choke vacuum diaphragm) is not
working. Many of them look like a small flying saucer attached on or
near the carb. The butterfly valve should not close all the way except
on initial startup and only for a second until the engine has a vacuum.
It then opens up a very small amount until the engine warms up. The
electric or manifold choke heater opens the choke until it's fully open
and it stays that way until the engine cools again.  The fast idle cam
should operate also when the choke is initially closed.    Your choke
pulloff may be operating but be out of adjustment.  If that's the case,
you merely adjust it by shortening or lengthening the connection by
bending the connecting soft wire rod.  If the pulloff needs to be
replaced, it's not expensive.  Did you do something to the engine
recently like wash it or mess around under the hood?  If so, you may
have disconnected a vacuum line.  All of this is easier to check then it
is to describe.  Hope this helps...

Emil
Savannah, Ga

David Trowbridge wrote:
>
> ok guys, i think my carb is on its way out.  this is about my 85 F-150
> 300 I6.  a couple of days ago i started the truck and it sputtered and
> died.  i turned the key again and it started right up, but it was
> running real rough.  the truck will die when its cold unless i keep my
> foot on the gas.  once it is warmed up it runs REAL rough and almost
> dies but doesn't.  if i drive on the highway for about 20-30 minutes,
> then pull off then it idles fine.  however it idles rough if i kill it
> and restart it.
>
> i looked at the carb to see if anything obvious was wrong and the only
> thing i could see was the butterfly valve on top of the carb(don't know
> its name, i'm an EFI guy) is not closing all the way at idle.  i can
> manually close this valve and the truck starts to idle better, but its
> still rougher than it was last week.
>
> i have heard many bad things about the 1 bbl carbs goin bad all the time
> and i'm wondering if mine is on the way out.  the carb has 166,000 miles
> on it and has been rebuilt 10,000 miles ago, but i don't know if thats
> the only time its been rebuilt.  HELP!!!!
>
> David
> 85 F-150 300 I6  C4 3 speed auto
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:23:21 EDT
Subject: Re: body lift and suspension lifts.

In a message dated 9/22/00 06:22:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, sclemons vt.edu
writes:

<< 2. body lifts, I have seen a body lift that raises the body 3 inches,
prices run from $89 bucks to
>$111 bucks. Has any one bought one of the body lift kits???? >>

92 F150 4x4 RC-LB, 302/AOD/3.55, 3" Pro Comp body lift, 33x12.50 Bfg MT's on
stock rims.  Some rubbage at full lock in the parking lots.  I didn't have to
torch any of the bolts or the cab mounts, and to solve the gap problem, I cut
and rewelded the rear brackets and cut off the frame horns in front and
rewelded them in a higher position.  I have no mileage problems on the
highway, getting about 16mpg, 1-2 miles less than stock but in the city I am
getting slightly better than 10mpg.  In my opinion this was my best option
for fitting these tires, considering the under $100 price and the fact that
it is driven 95% on road.  It took me 4 hours to install it, by myself, and
the help of two big bottle jacks, with air tools. It took me another 4 hours
to do the bumper mods.  I have about 20k on the truck with the body lift.

Joe
92 F150

------------------------------

From: kb9odg.mark juno.com
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 14:29:06 -0500
Subject: powerless truck

I'm in need of some aid.  The background: '87 F-150 with 300 six EFI and
4 speed.  The problem:  after changing the coil plug, the engine seems to
be under some sort of load that is not letting it idle(it kills it in
about 10 sec.), and only lets the engine get up to 3000rpm with the pedel
to the floor.  The symptoms:  the exhaust is super loud, it sounds like
it does when I really get into it(makes me thing it is under a load),
when compression braking, it pops and backfires for the entire rpm range,
it won't idle without staying on the gas, and it doesn't have enough
power to make it up a small incline.

I've been thinking that my catalytic converter is going bad, but I've
been told that the exhaust would be very quite if that were to happen.  I
thought maybe something up front was too tight, like the alt, power
steering pump, or something like that, but the way the engine starts up
fine, and then after 3 sec. the engine then decides to start dying.  I
was told it could be the high pressure fuel pump, but I can hear that
during it's cycle time before I start the engine.  I was told to start
the truck and listen to the high pressure pump to see if it is whining
more than usual, but the truck starts right away.

Is power steering fluid conductive at all?  I got a little bit of that
down in the coil's plug when I wsa pushing the truck around and turning
the steering wheel.  Could that be my problem?

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 5.0L and AOD, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35" tires
...
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...

"Don't let go of that youthfull soul.  Despite body and mind your youth
will never die."  - Creed
________________________________________________________________
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Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 06:50:05 +1000
From: les williams <lesw cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: Bushing


>  I am about to replace all the bushings in the truck. Does anybody
have
>  any suggestions to make this easier.
>  Thanks
>  Scott

Scott,

I'm really curious about you question. I assume you do want some advise,
but your not indicating your level of mechanical ability, or the level
of tools and equipment you may have access to. When you refer to 'all
the bushings in the truck', do you really mean 'all the bushings in the
truck' including the brass ones in the door hinges ?? just curious -
If your mechanical ability is reasonable then the job is relatively
straigtfoward, if you bearly know the difference between a pickle fork
and a left handed screwdriver, then cut your losses and book it in, and
pay for it to be done. This still not necessarily the  easiest option
since you should still want to know exactly what you are paying for.

regards

Les

------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 17:37:47 EDT
Subject: Re: powerless truck

It sounds like a weak spark or your ignition timing is off.... maybe
retarded.  But, what do you mean by "coil plug"?  Do you mean the electrical
connector at the ignition coil ......or something else?
Alex

<< after changing the coil plug, the engine seems to
be under some sort of load that is not letting it idle(it kills it in
about 10 sec.), and only lets the engine get up to 3000rpm with the pedel
to the floor.  The symptoms:  the exhaust is super loud, it sounds like
it does when I really get into it(makes me thing it is under a load),
when compression braking, it pops and backfires for the entire rpm range,
it won't idle without staying on the gas, and it doesn't have enough
power to make it up a small incline. >>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 02:07:46 -0400
From: Shawn Clemons <sclemons vt.edu>
Subject: Re: body lift and suspension lifts.

Did you swap in the AOD? What's the transmission code on the door? More
than likely you've got an E4OD. 0.68 overdrive is why you're still managing
16 mpg

>92 F150 4x4 RC-LB, 302/AOD/3.55,
-------------
Shawn Clemons
'90 Bronco XLT 5.0EFI M5OD 4.10LS 4" 35's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/users/sclemons/index.html ....

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