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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 21:27:50 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #195
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80-96-list Digest Sun, 17 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 195

In This Issue:
Er... Uh... Digital Cameras???
F250 swaybars
Re: Er... Uh... Digital Cameras???
MSD Help
ADMIN: Off-topic postings
no A/C  ---> A/C - a reasonable option?
followup: clattering 300 at startup
Re: followup: clattering 300 at startup
Gas Tank Replacement

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" <dharmier pdq.net>
Subject: Er... Uh... Digital Cameras???
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:05:26 -0500

My computer is somewhat of a dinasour, and I'm not real technoligy
equipped.

I'm looking to get a digital camera. Naturally I don't want to spend much,
but was prepaired to buy a Sony Digital Mavica for approx. $500. Now I find
that model only does 640x480, and the better one is $700 (whew!)

Anyone got any input?

Ford Content: The Beast has finally gotten a torque convertor, and now will
soon see a diesel guru for a "tune up"

The '92 has been GREAT since getting the tranny fluid flushed and changed.

Dave H.
Houston
90 F-350 Crew L/B Diesel (The Beast)
91 F-150 SC L/B 5.8 (Dads)
92 F-150 SC S/B 5.0 (Sisters)

------------------------------

From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 20:05:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: F250 swaybars

If any of you have a set of swaybars you wanna part with for a
reasonable cost (preferably off a 92-96 F250 4x4),please contact me off
list. I want to swap the ones off my Bronco to a 98 F150,the F250 bars
will go back onto the Bronco. I'd like a majority of the hardware but
can fab almost anything I'll need that isn't included. I live in
Washington State.          Thanks!   Randy Goolsby


------------------------------

From: "Steve Dyer" <grallock ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Er... Uh... Digital Cameras???
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:25:27 -0500

I used my brother-in-law's Mavica FD-7 during a trip to New Zealand earlier
this year.   LOVE the fantastic 10X optical zoom and the ridiculously easy
transfer of images (instantly to any PC) through the 3.5" diskette media.
The 640x480 is not a problem if you're just going to e-mail pics back and
forth.  The only disadvantages I found with this camera were its large size
and the heavy compression of the image files that seemed to prevent final
images from being as nice as some other cameras with gentler compression.
This Sony was $750+ when bought new a few years ago and the prices have come
way down since.

Since then I've bought a Kodak DC240. ($367)  3X optical zoom, USB port
compatibility, smaller size and 1280x960 resolution, among a host of other
features.  Comes with NiMH batteries and charger, etc.  So far I really like
it and for under $400 it's a good value compared to similarly priced cameras
from other manufacturers, although like anything in the rapidly moving
consumer electronics field the longer you wait the better device you can buy
for the same amount of money - you've just got to decide when to jump in.

Steve Dyer



-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Harmier <dharmier pdq.net>


I'm looking to get a digital camera. Naturally I don't want to spend much,
but was prepaired to buy a Sony Digital Mavica for approx. $500. Now I find
that model only does 640x480, and the better one is $700 (whew!)

Anyone got any input?




------------------------------

From: slikness mindspring.com
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:05:40 -0400
Subject: MSD Help

Hey, Phred Moreno or anyone else that is knowledgeabe:

My son and I race in the Pure Stock 4 cylinder class at our local circle track.  We have a good friend that is racing a Ford Mustang and basically anything that says Ford on it or can be bought from Ford can be used on his car.  Ford Motorsports sells a CD ignition that is actually made by MSD and is equivalent to the MSD 6 AL.  Ford sells it for the V8s, but we were wondering if it can be used on the 4 cylinders.  The 6 AL can be jumpered to be used on 4,6, or 8 cylinder vehicles, but can the Ford version be altered the same way?

Thanks for your help,

Slik


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:48:12 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Off-topic postings

Gang, lets keep it on topic.  The web site has a place
for off-topic posts.

Thanks,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

From: "Mark Herzog" <ftmph uaf.edu>
Subject: no A/C  ---> A/C - a reasonable option?
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 11:03:21 -0800

I currently live in Alaska, and since we saw our first snowflakes yesterday,
I really shouldn't be thinking about this now, but....  I plan on being in
the southwest by springtime next year, and I am trying to decide what to do
with my 1987 F-150, which I have come to love, but unfortunately has no A/C.

How hard is it to retrofit A/C into a 1987 F-150 300 I6?  I've had the truck
long enough, that I would much rather install A/C (if it is reasonable) than
to sell the truck and then try to buy one down there.
I've searched the archives (even the heater, A/C archives!) and I could not
find any discussions.  One person did mention they had done it and was
having stalling problems (potentially unrelated), so I know it has been
done.  Any suggestions, or tips for links?  Are there kits available, or is
the recommended technique to go to the salvage yard?

Thanks for any help.

Mark




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 12:12:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Derek Whiteside <derekw rocketmail.com>
Subject: followup: clattering 300 at startup

Well, I seem to have solved my problem.

Shortly after posting about my problem to the list, I went out and
bought tune-up parts (plugs, cap/rotor, wires) and a non-cheapie
(Bosch, $5.00) oil filter.

I performed an oil change; same brand of oil, but with the new filter.
Voila! The problem has all but disappeared. I sometimes hear it for a
fraction of a second when starting, but it was lasting 10x longer with
the previous oil filter (a "casite" brand). I have also had this
problem with Fram oil filters. The Bosch filter cost about 2.00 more
than the Fram, but it's worth it not to have to hear that awful racket
and know what kind of wear is happening as a result.

My theory is that the anti-drainback valve on the cheap filters wasn't
sealing up well enough, allowing oil to drain down from the top of the
engine and back into the pan. This meant that for the first few seconds
of operation, the top end was operating without oil until it was pumped
back up in there. Is this a plausible explanation?

Anyhow, that's it... hope this helps someone else. There's something
really satisfying about tracking down (and squashing) this kind of
"gremlin"....

cheers,

Derek Whiteside
92 F150 Supercab XLT 4x2 4.9L 5 speed
Albany, OR

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "Terence Underwood" <terenceu1 prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: followup: clattering 300 at startup
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:10:13 -0500

You are probably right about the drainback valve.  Fram filters are the
worst made IMHO.  They have a silicone drainback valve, but believe it or
not, that valve actually seals against CARDBOARD!  Yes, the end caps of the
filter element are made of cardboard in fram filters instead of steel as in
just about any other filter (STP, NAPA, Purolator, Motorcraft (actually a
purolator), Wix, etc.)  Motorcrafts are very nice filters, and can be bought
relatively cheaply at most Wal-Mart stores.

Here's a great site from a guy that has cut apart and tested many brands:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html

By the way, guys, I'm new to the list.  I'm the proud owner of a '95 Bronco
w/a 351w for about 1 1/2 years.  Glad to join in with fellow Ford owners!

Terence Underwood
terenceu1 prodigy.net

'95 Bronco EB/351W/E4OD/3.55 open/tow pack./bone stock
'94 Probe GT/K&N cone/Dunlop SP5000/Redline lubed

----- Original Message -----
From: "Derek Whiteside" <derekw rocketmail.com>
To: "80-96 list" <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 2:12 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] followup: clattering 300 at startup


> Well, I seem to have solved my problem.
>
> Shortly after posting about my problem to the list, I went out and
> bought tune-up parts (plugs, cap/rotor, wires) and a non-cheapie
> (Bosch, $5.00) oil filter.
>
> I performed an oil change; same brand of oil, but with the new filter.
> Voila! The problem has all but disappeared. I sometimes hear it for a
> fraction of a second when starting, but it was lasting 10x longer with
> the previous oil filter (a "casite" brand). I have also had this
> problem with Fram oil filters. The Bosch filter cost about 2.00 more
> than the Fram, but it's worth it not to have to hear that awful racket
> and know what kind of wear is happening as a result.
>
> My theory is that the anti-drainback valve on the cheap filters wasn't
> sealing up well enough, allowing oil to drain down from the top of the
> engine and back into the pan. This meant that for the first few seconds
> of operation, the top end was operating without oil until it was pumped
> back up in there. Is this a plausible explanation?
>
> Anyhow, that's it... hope this helps someone else. There's something
> really satisfying about tracking down (and squashing) this kind of
> "gremlin"....
>
> cheers,
>
> Derek Whiteside
> 92 F150 Supercab XLT 4x2 4.9L 5 speed
> Albany, OR
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 22:23:35 EDT
Subject: Gas Tank Replacement

Guys

I gots a 1991 F-250 (short wheel base) and am replacing the 18 gallon rear
gas tank (the one behind the rear axle as the book says) and was wondering
what kind of stuff I should put between the straps and tank to prevent rust.
The stuff that was on there was almost like roofing tar paper.  Would
rubberized undercoating work?  Or should I go ahead and undercoat the whole
tank?


------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #195
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