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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #194
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80-96-list Digest Sat, 16 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 194

In This Issue:
Re: Repair of roof
Re: Repair of roof
Re: Repair of roof
Re: Repair of roof
Re: Repair of roof
heater core hoses
Re: Painting roof
Re: '88 Bronco 351W questions
Injectors
Emissions light
Re: Emissions light
Rust prevention...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Metalcaster4jc aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 20:21:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Repair of roof

The dry ice might work, as long as you keep a piece on it all the time.  A
material's thermal expansion property is a constant.  The steel will expand
and contract as the temperature changes, expanding when hot, contracting when
cool.  My metallurgical guess is that it will return back to the dented
condition

Andrew Abrams
Metalcaster4jc
Marcellus Metalcasters, Inc.
Marcellus, MI 49067
Gray, Ductile and White Iron sand castings.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 20:35:16 -0400
From: flagship <Flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Repair of roof

I think it's an inexpensive experiment.  I believe this procedure is one
they use for so-called "paintless" ding or dent removal that you see at
some auto body places.  What have you got to lose?

Emil
Savannah, Ga

Metalcaster4jc aol.com wrote:
>
> The dry ice might work, as long as you keep a piece on it all the time.  A
> material's thermal expansion property is a constant.  The steel will expand
> and contract as the temperature changes, expanding when hot, contracting when
> cool.  My metallurgical guess is that it will return back to the dented
> condition
>
> Andrew Abrams
> Metalcaster4jc
> Marcellus Metalcasters, Inc.
> Marcellus, MI 49067
> Gray, Ductile and White Iron sand castings.
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: Metalcaster4jc aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 20:44:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Repair of roof

I'd also like know the results.  My metallurgical education really didn't
cover truck roofs, my earlier theory might be all wrong.

You might be able to get the roof cool enough with a CO2 fire extinguisher,
or a high pressure gas cylinder of CO2, like what is used for fountain drinks.

Andrew Abrams
Metalcaster4jc
Marcellus Metalcasters, Inc.
Marcellus, MI 49067
Gray, Ductile and White Iron sand castings.

------------------------------

From: "Obert, Scott AT3" <ObertS constellation.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Repair of roof
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 18:01:25 -0700

I've heard of Dry Ice being used before to remove dents, they also used a
torch to heat the metal up.  Sorry don't know any more details than that.

-----Original Message-----
From: flagship [mailto:Flagship worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 5:35 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Repair of roof


I think it's an inexpensive experiment.  I believe this procedure is one
they use for so-called "paintless" ding or dent removal that you see at
some auto body places.  What have you got to lose?

Emil
Savannah, Ga

Metalcaster4jc aol.com wrote:
>
> The dry ice might work, as long as you keep a piece on it all the time.  A
> material's thermal expansion property is a constant.  The steel will
expand
> and contract as the temperature changes, expanding when hot, contracting
when
> cool.  My metallurgical guess is that it will return back to the dented
> condition
>
> Andrew Abrams
> Metalcaster4jc
> Marcellus Metalcasters, Inc.
> Marcellus, MI 49067
> Gray, Ductile and White Iron sand castings.
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 18:14:08 -0700
From: chuck sanborn <slammer deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Repair of roof

At 08:21 PM 9/16/00 -0400, you wrote:
>My metallurgical guess is that it will return back to the dented
>condition

That's a very plausible guess...damnit!!  Not a very expensive shot
at fixing it though as a minimum buy of dry ice is 15 lbs for $10.50.



------------------------------

From: "big red" <big_red_59 hotmail.com>
Subject: heater core hoses
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 01:28:10 GMT

Hi all. Just a quick question. I replaced the heater core in my truck just
now and I didn't pay attention to which heater hose goes where. It was dark
and I was getting eatin up by them darn skeeters and was in a hurry so I can
get on my way to a wedding reception. So I'll be hopping in my car for that
I guess. Anyway, does anyone know off the top of their head which hose goes
where? One gets split off with the throttle body and the other goes
somewhere underneath it. Which gets split and which doesn't,left or right?
If it matters. Thanks a bunch.
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------------------------------

From: "Phil Maher" <maherp voicenet.com>
Subject: Re: Painting roof
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 22:38:37 -0400


I have an 88 Bronco also that I just painted the roof . it was the original faded dark blue I scrubbed it with a cleanser and a stiff scrub brush, scuffed it with red scotch brite pads, wiped it down with enamel reducer, then shot two coats Dupont Imron white.It looks alright, but if I were to do another one in the future I think I would go over it with a DA and 220 paper first. I think with a high gloss paint it would look nicer if the surface were leveled off some.   Phil Maher    maherp voicenet.com


------------------------------

From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 16:38:39 EDT
Subject: Re: '88 Bronco 351W questions

> Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 21:45:22 -0700
>  From: Bob Kennedy <bobkennedy uswest.net>
>
>  Take a deep breath...let it out.
>  5.8L engines along then did not have knock sensors, on the 5.0s. I am not
> even
>  sure that 5.8s ever came with one.  I don't think there would be enough
> changes
>  between 88-89 to cause any alarm.

Thanks for the tip on the knock sensor.

My concern was not that there would be significant changes between '88 and
'89, but that the '88 manuals give very thin treatment to the 5.8.  This is
why I wondered if maybe it was assumed that the 5.8 would be similar to the
5.0 or if maybe the 5.8 was not really an '88 F-series engine.

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4
'88 Bronco

------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 16:55:12 EDT
Subject: Injectors

Gang,
Is there a test to see if the injectors are good off the truck? I have mine
off waiting for the new motor. Can I do a load or ohm test to make sure they
are OK? They are Motorsport 30lbers.
Later,
Wayne Foy
NLOC #484
94 Flareside SC
#2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html
ICQ#58060858

------------------------------

Date: 17 Sep 2000 15:45:45 -0700
From: Gary Peterson <cowboy350 go.com>
Subject: Emissions light

My truck turned 180,000 miles a couple weeks ago, and today my Emissions light came on and stayed on. Does anyone have the procedure to reset it? It's a 1986 with a 300 I6. Thanks.

Gary
1986 F-150 4x4 300 I6

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 17:07:35 -0700
From: chuck sanborn <slammer deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Emissions light

Hi Gary,
If memory serves correctly, the module is at the bottom of the instrument
panel,
left of the steering column  Push the reset button and you should be good
to go.

At 03:45 PM 9/17/00 -0700, you wrote:
>My truck turned 180,000 miles a couple weeks ago, and today my Emissions
>light came on and stayed on. Does anyone have the procedure to reset it?
>It's a 1986 with a 300 I6. Thanks.
>
>Gary
>1986 F-150 4x4 300 I6


------------------------------

From: "Stephen Hansen" <shansen ndak.net>
Subject: Rust prevention...
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:11:18 -0500


I found a way for some of us to prevent rust on our trucks (no this isn't an advertisement)
My story: Last fall I spotted some signs of rust on the lower section of the cab corner (behind the drivers door, lower few inches) I used my wire wheel to get rid of this minor surface problem, and promptly found out it was more than surface rust. I bought a replacement panel and today I removed the rusty area and discovered some sand and grit in this area. I've cleaned the area and prepped the new panel for replacement; am waiting for the flanging tool to arrive to press on.
Now for the rust prevention lesson. At the very bottom lip of the supercab models (there had to be something similar on regular cabs) ford has made a drain area; two possible three in mine. The best way to describe it is where two pieces of the cab are spot welded together, the top piece has a upside down "V" in it. Mine were clogged with dirt and prevented the water from coming out. I suggest somehow cleaning out these passages (wire or air pressure) and using that darn red tube that won't stay in the WD-40 nozzle spray it up into that area. That will (hopefully) flush out some more junk and lube that area preventing a chance of rust or stopping what has already started.
Just my lesson learned. I'm taking pictures as this is my first panel replacement I have ever done. I'll post them when I'm done.
Stephen Hansen
1992 F250
1950 F-1
2000 Keystone Cougar 5th wheel
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/shansenw/



------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #194
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