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Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 22:39:40 -0400 (EDT)
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80-96-list Digest Mon, 11 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 189

In This Issue:
Water Injection
Re: intermittent wiper:  1994 F150 4x4
Re: intermittent wiper:  1994 F150 4x4
Re: Wiper problem
F150 Stalling/hesitation
Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation
Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation
Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation
Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation
Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation
Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation
Re: Rear axle seals
Weekend report, was Re: Rear axle seals
Rear axle questions after this weekend:
Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation
Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation
Re: Rear axle questions after this weekend:
np 208 t-case

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "mike  madden" <lugnut garlic.com>
Subject: Water Injection
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:35:27 -0700

To the guy who is playing w/ water injection and originally tried to use
window washer pumps and they burned out: (sorry, forget who it was)   It
just occured to me that they would probably last a long time if you used a
resistor to drop the voltage to 5 or 6 Volts or so.  That would slow the
flow down to a more reasonable level too.  Maybe worth a try??  Please keep
us posted- My 460 pings unless I put in 89 octane, and I just paid $2.07/gal
here in morgan hill,ca.  If i could get by w/ 87 octane I may start
tinkering around too!
mike madden
88 f-250 4x4 5-speed


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 07:53:13 -0400
From: B Smith <bryant wilmington.net>
Subject: Re: intermittent wiper:  1994 F150 4x4

It is fixable! At the end of the switch arm is a cover (looks like one
piece but its not). Pry that off with the edge of a pocket knife. Inside
carefully loosen and remove the screw. There is a small spring behind it
and a gold contact set. Clean the contact and the inside of the switch
housing out with a Q-tip and alcohol to remove the old dirt and grease.
Lubricate with di-electric grease and reassemble. This should cure your
problem.

Bryant in NC
93 F-150 SC Mark III

> Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 20:34:01 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Bill Wagner <bfw hh.bc.ca>
> Subject: Re: intermittent wiper:  1994 F150 4x4
>
> Hey, I am sure that I'm not the only one with this problem:  the
> intermittent wiper setting doesn't work.  Is it fixable, or do I have to
> replace the whole multi-function switch and/or circuit board controller?

------------------------------

From: "Obert, Scott AT3" <ObertS constellation.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: intermittent wiper:  1994 F150 4x4
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 07:02:39 -0700

Bryant,

Would this also work for a 1995 F150?  My intermittent wipers still work but
not always.  Sometimes I have to change the setting in order for the wipers
to move.

Scott
95 F150 4X4
Short Box

-----Original Message-----
From: B Smith [mailto:bryant wilmington.net]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 4:53 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: intermittent wiper: 1994 F150 4x4


It is fixable! At the end of the switch arm is a cover (looks like one
piece but its not). Pry that off with the edge of a pocket knife. Inside
carefully loosen and remove the screw. There is a small spring behind it
and a gold contact set. Clean the contact and the inside of the switch
housing out with a Q-tip and alcohol to remove the old dirt and grease.
Lubricate with di-electric grease and reassemble. This should cure your
problem.

Bryant in NC
93 F-150 SC Mark III

> Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 20:34:01 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Bill Wagner <bfw hh.bc.ca>
> Subject: Re: intermittent wiper:  1994 F150 4x4
>
> Hey, I am sure that I'm not the only one with this problem:  the
> intermittent wiper setting doesn't work.  Is it fixable, or do I have to
> replace the whole multi-function switch and/or circuit board controller?
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Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 07:27:04 -0700
From: Jim & Monica <monica centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Wiper problem


I'm am also having problems with the wipers in my F250. They don't want to turn
off
when I I want them to. It usually takes a few minutes.
Oh, and mines a '92 super cab 460 FI XLT

-jimb




------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 10:41:41 EDT
Subject: F150 Stalling/hesitation

I've only recently been having this problem, usually in parking lots or
coming out of the driveway, or at stop signs.  It runs fine until it warms
up, and after that it idles up and down like it has a huge cam in it.  It's
fine while you are driving too (like on the highway) , just a little hesitant
from standstills.  I remember someone having similar problems a while back,
just wondering if anyone remembers what the problem was?  I originally
thought maybe the fuel filter or fuel pumps, but I changed the filter and
this happens with both tanks.  I'm thinking vacumn leak.  Any Ideas?

thanks,

Joe
92 F150 4x4
302/AOD

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 07:55:32 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy <bobkennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation

Does it idle smoothly with a bit of throttle? You may have a clogged air by pass
valve.

Bob


Nite4x aol.com wrote:

> I've only recently been having this problem, usually in parking lots or
> coming out of the driveway, or at stop signs.  It runs fine until it warms
> up, and after that it idles up and down like it has a huge cam in it.  It's
> fine while you are driving too (like on the highway) , just a little hesitant
> from standstills.  I remember someone having similar problems a while back,
> just wondering if anyone remembers what the problem was?  I originally
> thought maybe the fuel filter or fuel pumps, but I changed the filter and
> this happens with both tanks.  I'm thinking vacumn leak.  Any Ideas?
>
> thanks,
>
> Joe
> 92 F150 4x4
> 302/AOD
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

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http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:09:19 -0400
From: Martin Horne <flatspin optonline.net>
Subject: Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation

Had/have the same problem on an 86 302. Changed the IAT sensor (Intake Air
Temp) the other weekend and it got better but not right. A code showed loss
of tach signal, and since I replaced the Ignition Control Unit on the
distributor when I did an engine swap a while ago, I decided to spring for
a rebuilt distributor at Pep-Boys since it was just too much trouble to get
the stator out and the rebuilt was $89. (stator on its own is $25 and a
bear to get at - you have to tear the distibutor apart). I don't seem to
have had the problem since - I believe it was a concatenation of issues
which is why it took me so long to find.

Don't forget to reset the computer - I think sometimes it has "learnt" to
deal with a faulty sensor, and if you don't reset it the problem doesn't go
away immediately.

For information, the following (impressive I think) list is parts fitted
with the rebuilt engine. It was still exhibiting the problem afterwards.

Rebuilt Engine
MAP sensor
O2 Sensor
TPS sensor
EGR Valve
EGR sensor
ICU
Computer

Harness was checked thoroughly. Fuel pressures and flow checked.

If you find anyhting else, please let me know - just in case!

At 10:41 AM 9/11/00 -0400, you wrote:
>I've only recently been having this problem, usually in parking lots or
>coming out of the driveway, or at stop signs.  It runs fine until it warms
>up, and after that it idles up and down like it has a huge cam in it.  It's
>fine while you are driving too (like on the highway) , just a little hesitant
>from standstills.  I remember someone having similar problems a while back,
>just wondering if anyone remembers what the problem was?  I originally
>thought maybe the fuel filter or fuel pumps, but I changed the filter and
>this happens with both tanks.  I'm thinking vacumn leak.  Any Ideas?
>
>thanks,
>

Martin Horne
'86 Bronco
Long Island, NY

------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:12:56 EDT
Subject: Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation

In a message dated 9/11/00 10:54:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bobkennedy uswest.net writes:

<< Does it idle smoothly with a bit of throttle? You may have a clogged air
by pass
valve.

Bob >>
not only does it idle smoothly, but it won't stall either...

Joe
92 F150 4x4
302/AOD

------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:16:18 EDT
Subject: Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation

In a message dated 9/11/00 11:09:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
flatspin optonline.net writes:

<< Don't forget to reset the computer - I think sometimes it has "learnt" to
deal with a faulty sensor, and if you don't reset it the problem doesn't go
away immediately. >>
I think that my problem would be related to the fact that I have put only 500
miles on the vehicle in the past 8 months...  things gum up and stuff like
that...  I have never really had a problem like this before and I'm not
getting any codes.  How do you reset the computer?

Joe
92 F150 4x4
302/AOD
122K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:38:00 -0400
From: Martin Horne <flatspin optonline.net>
Subject: Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation


There is normally a procedure included with the code reader - or removing the
power for at least 10 to 15 minutes will do it. Disconnect the battery and go
have lunch is the easiest way. I have been told that these computers will learn
the best parameters for an engine, allowing for wear etc. and behave
accordingly. When you change something that was causing a problem it is
therefore a good idea to reset them to defaults and make them learn again.


At 11:16 AM 9/11/00 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 9/11/00 11:09:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>flatspin optonline.net writes:
>
><< Don't forget to reset the computer - I think sometimes it has "learnt" to
> deal with a faulty sensor, and if you don't reset it the problem doesn't go
> away immediately. >>
>I think that my problem would be related to the fact that I have put only 500
>miles on the vehicle in the past 8 months...  things gum up and stuff like
>that...  I have never really had a problem like this before and I'm not
>getting any codes.  How do you reset the computer?
>
>Joe



M.

<mailto:FlatSpin Optonline.Net>FlatSpin Optonline.Net


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 08:57:40 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy <bobkennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation

Pull that air by pass valve off, (can shaped device on the drivers side top of
the throttle body) and clean up up with carb cleaner. You'll see the valve
portion of it as soon as you take it off.

Bob


Nite4x aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 9/11/00 10:54:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> bobkennedy uswest.net writes:
>
> << Does it idle smoothly with a bit of throttle? You may have a clogged air
> by pass
>  valve.
>
>  Bob >>
> not only does it idle smoothly, but it won't stall either...
>
> Joe
> 92 F150 4x4
> 302/AOD
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Re: Rear axle seals
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 10:56:38 -0600

Thanks, but I suspect that it's not the full floating axle.  However, I do
believe it's a Dana 60, based on the shape and the "60" cast on the right
side of the housing by the place where the axle joins it.  The thing is
though, I had to take the axle out by removing the "C" clips from the
differential, which allowed the axles to slide out all the way.

I'll send the report in a different message in a few minutes or so.

Chip

-----Original Message-----
From: Brazzadog aol.com [mailto:Brazzadog aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 10:53 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Rear axle seals


I should think your '80 must have a full floating Dana 60 rear axle like my
'78 does.  If that's the case, then it's actually an easier job than on a
lighter duty rear axle.  If you've ever done front wheel bearings, then it's

pretty much the same.

First you unbolt the axle shaft flange and pull the axle shaft out.  Then
remove the wheel bearing locknut and pull the hub and bearings off the
spindle.  If memory serves, the seal is in the back of the hub.

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4
'88 Bronco

>  >I recently got a 1980 F-250 and started fixing the rear brakes on
Sunday.
>  >When I got the drums off, the inside was totally covered with black
"grease"
> > that smelled of gear oil not brake fluid.
>  >
>  >I believe that the problem is the seals around the axles, and am writing
>  >mainly to ask about what sort of job this is to fix.  Am I in for an
ordeal?
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Weekend report, was Re: Rear axle seals
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:15:40 -0600

Greetings all,

Thanks for the words of encouragement in starting the rear-axle seal
project.  Here's the report from the weekend...

First, I was able to get all the brake parts and get the drums turned, so
once I get the bearings and seals replace, the brakes should be good as new
(ha ha).

I read the manual and had a tough time understanding the instructions
because it was pretty obvious that I didn't have the Ford 9 or 10.5 axle, so
it must be a Dana X.  The 60 on the right side of the housing made me think
that it was a Dana 60, but the instructions said to unbolt the axle shaft
flange and to not re-use the bolts.  Strange because there were no bolts
that matched the description.  I therefore took the diff cover off and
caught the goo that was lubricating the gears.  This goo should not be
confused with oil.  Apparently some water had gotten into the diff and it
was churned by gears for many miles and emulsified pretty well.

I got the pinion shaft out by undoing the long allen screw, poked the axles
in a bit to expose the "C" clips, took them out and removed the axles.  This
was all pretty much a piece of cake.

Next was the seal.  Mr. Claw Hammer made short work of that problem.  The
bearings are another story entirely.  I realized that I should only do one
side at a time in case something goes wrong, I'll only have to undo one
side's damage.

My first attempt to get the bearings out was somewhat laughable.  I ended up
breaking off part of the outer rim of the bearing race. The race is trough
shaped in cross section to hold the roller bearings from sliding sideways.
Also, the bearing puller ripped out the bearing retainer.  After a bunch of
hammering with a slide hammer/bearing puller, my hands were sore and the
thing hadn't budged a micron.  Part of the problem was that the puller that
I rented was kind of worn and kept popping out of the race, but anyway, it's
stuck fast.

I tried heating thing up a bit with the torch, but was afraid of getting too
hot.  It got to a bit over 200 deg F. and was still stuck.   I was afraid of
screwing up the brake hardware so I took the plate off the axle too.  Now I
can heat it up "safely" I think.

I also noticed that the axle vent was indeed plugged, which, combined with
the addition of water may indeed have been responsible for the bad seals.

Thanks for getting this far.   I'll send questions in a separate message for
the sake of brevity.

Onward....

Chip
'80 F-250 w/no rear wheels. :-)

------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Rear axle questions after this weekend:
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:20:00 -0600

Greetings,

I got my rear axle all taken apart but can't get the bearing race out.
Can anyone suggest some favorite techniques to do this?
If I should try heating it up, how hot should I go?  Boiling point of water,
smoking oil, dull red, bright orange?

The axle vent appears to be clogged solid.  Can anyone tell me if it's a
straight through hole, or is there some sort of valve?  Also, there's a bit
of rubber hose attached but it's just a ragged end.  Does this hose attach
to anything?

Thanks in advance,
Chip
'80 F-250 4x4

------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 16:39:42 EDT
Subject: Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation

In a message dated 9/11/00 11:57:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bobkennedy uswest.net writes:

<< Pull that air by pass valve off, (can shaped device on the drivers side
top of
the throttle body) and clean up up with carb cleaner. You'll see the valve
portion of it as soon as you take it off.

Bob
 >>
ok Bob, thanks alot...  I'm gonna try that...

Joe
92 F150

------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 16:40:23 EDT
Subject: Re: F150 Stalling/hesitation

In a message dated 9/11/00 11:38:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
flatspin optonline.net writes:

<< There is normally a procedure included with the code reader - or removing
the
power for at least 10 to 15 minutes will do it. Disconnect the battery and go
have lunch is the easiest way. I have been told that these computers will
learn
the best parameters for an engine, allowing for wear etc. and behave
accordingly. When you change something that was causing a problem it is
therefore a good idea to reset them to defaults and make them learn again.
 >>
I'll do this after I clean the bypass valve...  thanks !!!

Joe
92 F150

------------------------------

From: LGRanch aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 21:53:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear axle questions after this weekend:

Which axle do you have for sure?
Also the only way to get the bearing race out is pull it out. Someone has
suggested dry ice on the bearing race. Do not heat the axle very hot at all.
By heating the axle you could easily damage the axle or warp it so that the
new bearing could be screwed up.

You MUST pull out the race with puller. If the one you have does not do the
job then get the best one you can.

------------------------------

From: Lingus0169 aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 22:17:14 EDT
Subject:  np 208 t-case

hi, i have an 85 f150 np 208 t-case, i need a new 'retainer plate' and
shifter fork. everyplace has it on back-order. does anyone know how much $ it
might be if i go to a dealer?. thankx for your input...
nick

------------------------------

Subject: intermittent wiper:  1994 F150 4x4
From: craig n eggerman <eggerman juno.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 23:35:33 EDT

I put one in an E-350 that did not have one before and it was not that
difficult. Just popped the old standard one out, found another in the
junk yard and put it in to replace the standard one. The 89 was on the
left side dash next to the instrument cluster. Be careful taking the
electrical connection ears off so they don't break. The intermittent one
had a little black box looking thing attached to the wiper switch.  There
is a slide rail that can get crud on it.
Craig
Eggerman ....

---

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