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Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 21:11:01 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #185
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80-96-list Digest Mon, 04 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 185

In This Issue:
Slight Steering Wheel Vibration
I'm New! Go Easy!!
Re: Slight Steering Wheel Vibration
Re: Wheel Lug Nut Torque Specs
Re: water injection
Re: water injection
Re: water injection
Rear axle seals
Electrical Noise
Re: Electrical Noise
Re: Electrical Noise
Re: Electrical Noise
Re: Rear axle seals
Re: Fuel in F150
Re: Electrical Noise

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ardy2 aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 21:47:30 EDT
Subject: Slight Steering Wheel Vibration

Less than 4 weeks ago,  I had my 89 Ranger aligned and wheels balanced.  I
notice at highway speeds a slight vibration.  What might be causing this?  Sho
uld I take it back to where they balanced the wheels and did the alignment?  C
ould they have not done it correctly?

------------------------------

From: "Mark Mcknight" <chicken521 hotmail.com>
Subject: I'm New! Go Easy!!
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 01:55:07 GMT

Hey! I'm new to this group, just signed up tonight!!!
I own an 85 F-150 XLT Lariat.. 5.0L AOD, and all those other little goodies
=)
(ya can check it out at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.beseen.com/hobbies/ford150/ )
Only one question, but how do you go about taking off the emissions junk? I
have it all off because I recently rebuilt the engine, and I don't really
want to put it back on, so what do I have to do to make the engine run
right?  It idles rather rough and it sounds like royal crap.  Any
suggestions would be good! other than that no real questions as of now, but
maybe I can help answer a few!

Thanks!
Mark!

'85 F-150 2wd

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------------------------------

From: "Mark Mcknight" <chicken521 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Slight Steering Wheel Vibration
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 02:01:49 GMT

Something I tried once when I had my 92 Mustang... I had a bad vibration, so
one day I thought.. "hey my alignment might still be off" so I let the wheel
go to see if it'd go in a straight line.. and it pulled to the left..
Usually I've noticed on the cars that i've had, highway vibration is caused
by to much toe in camber on the wheels..  I'd take it back to the shop and
have it redone..


>From: Ardy2 aol.com
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [80-96-list] Slight Steering Wheel Vibration
>Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 21:47:30 EDT
>
>Less than 4 weeks ago,  I had my 89 Ranger aligned and wheels balanced.  I
>notice at highway speeds a slight vibration.  What might be causing this?
>Sho
>uld I take it back to where they balanced the wheels and did the alignment?
>  C
>ould they have not done it correctly?
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 20:05:23 -0700
Subject: Wheel Lug Nut Torque Specs
From: Joan and Walt Posluszny <redstone home.com>

Can anyone tell me the wheel Lug Nut torque spec for a 1985 F150 4x4 with
the factory mag wheels.  Thanks  Walt


------------------------------

From: "Mark Mcknight" <chicken521 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel Lug Nut Torque Specs
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 03:47:36 GMT

If I remember right.. the torque specs are 85-110ft lbs of torque.
I never really go by the book on this one.. I just tighten em as tight as I
can get them, but different strokes for all different folks. =)

Mark

>From: Joan and Walt Posluszny <redstone home.com>
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: [80-96-list] Wheel Lug Nut Torque Specs
>Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 20:05:23 -0700
>
>Can anyone tell me the wheel Lug Nut torque spec for a 1985 F150 4x4 with
>the factory mag wheels.  Thanks  Walt
>
>=============================================================
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 06:15:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Lane <Lanero excite.com>
Subject: Re: water injection

It might sound crazy, but look into using a water sprinkler valve.  Their
designed for higher pessure water and can be controlled with low voltage.
Maybe something like that would work?

On Sun, 03 Sep 2000 11:54:37 -0500, 80-96-list ford-trucks.com wrote:

>  Sam-
>  As I understand it, you plan to use the water injection at higher load
(say
>  half- to full-throttle) to reduce detonation? If so, then I suspect you
>  will not have the manifold vacuum that you need to drive the old vacuum
>  wiper motor.  All of the old cars I ever had with vacuum wipers were pain

>  in this area.  You'd step on the gas hard, in the rain, and your wipers
>  would stop. In your case, the more you need the wiper motor for water
>  injection, the less you'll get. Unless I'm missing something, you'd
better
>  re-think this one.
>
>  Jim Cannon
>  Houston TX
>
>  At 17:26 01-09-00 -0500, Sam Means shared the following brilliant plan:
>  <snip>
>  >Now, my focus is on building my own apparatus, consisting of a vacuum
>  >windshield wiper motor from a '57 ford driving a positive displacement
>  >linear pump constructed from an air actuator cylinder and a couple of
>  >in-line check valves. Finding the vacuum motor was not easy. Those
things
>  >are getting scarce as hen's teeth. Since the flow volume will be very
small,
>  >the pump stroke can be very short. The beauty of the vacuum motor is it
>  >doesn't hurt it if it stalls,and it positively stops when the engine is
>  >stopped. I have yet to test it, but I believe it has enough force to
drive a
>  >small diameter cylinder pump. I'm going to try a 7/16 inch bore to
begin.
>  >Further effort will come after a couple of weeks of vacation in cool
weather
>
>  Jim Cannon
>  Houston, TX                            "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia
Tech
>  '29 Ford Model A Phaeton                 and a helluva' engineer!"
>  '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD              '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
>





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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 06:31:45 -0700
From: Chris McKinnon <chrism cnx.net>
Subject: Re: water injection

>It might sound crazy, but look into using a water sprinkler valve.  Their
>designed for higher pessure water and can be controlled with low voltage.
>Maybe something like that would work?
>

A solinoid sprinkler valve needs at least 18V DC to fire. A relay and
flyback reg circuit could work, or maybe some other kind of DC-DC or DC-AC
convertor since the valves are AC anyway.
Chris

'84 F150 4X4 longbox
NP 435, NP 208, 9.0LS 3.50 ...
351W on propane


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 10:42:37 -0400
From: flagship <Flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: water injection

To provide pressure, why not the compressor used on air horns?  Pep boys
about $20.  I assume it's not going to run except under heavy load.  It
should take that and it's a cheap experiment.  It can be controlled by a
vacuum sensor.



Roger Lane wrote:
>
> It might sound crazy, but look into using a water sprinkler valve.  Their
> designed for higher pessure water and can be controlled with low voltage.
> Maybe something like that would work?
>
> On Sun, 03 Sep 2000 11:54:37 -0500, 80-96-list ford-trucks.com wrote:
>
> >  Sam-
> >  As I understand it, you plan to use the water injection at higher load
> (say
> >  half- to full-throttle) to reduce detonation? If so, then I suspect you
> >  will not have the manifold vacuum that you need to drive the old vacuum
> >  wiper motor.  All of the old cars I ever had with vacuum wipers were pain
>
> >  in this area.  You'd step on the gas hard, in the rain, and your wipers
> >  would stop. In your case, the more you need the wiper motor for water
> >  injection, the less you'll get. Unless I'm missing something, you'd
> better
> >  re-think this one.
> >
> >  Jim Cannon
> >  Houston TX
> >
> >  At 17:26 01-09-00 -0500, Sam Means shared the following brilliant plan:
> >  <snip>
> >  >Now, my focus is on building my own apparatus, consisting of a vacuum
> >  >windshield wiper motor from a '57 ford driving a positive displacement
> >  >linear pump constructed from an air actuator cylinder and a couple of
> >  >in-line check valves. Finding the vacuum motor was not easy. Those
> things
> >  >are getting scarce as hen's teeth. Since the flow volume will be very
> small,
> >  >the pump stroke can be very short. The beauty of the vacuum motor is it
> >  >doesn't hurt it if it stalls,and it positively stops when the engine is
> >  >stopped. I have yet to test it, but I believe it has enough force to
> drive a
> >  >small diameter cylinder pump. I'm going to try a 7/16 inch bore to
> begin.
> >  >Further effort will come after a couple of weeks of vacation in cool
> weather
> >
> >  Jim Cannon
> >  Houston, TX                            "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia
> Tech
> >  '29 Ford Model A Phaeton                 and a helluva' engineer!"
> >  '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD              '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
> >
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
> =============================================================
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> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "Atkinson, Chip" <CAtkinson Circadence.com>
Subject: Rear axle seals
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 11:25:52 -0600

Greetings all,

I recently got a 1980 F-250 and started fixing the rear brakes on Sunday.
When I got the drums off, the inside was totally covered with black "grease"
that smelled of gear oil not brake fluid.

I believe that the problem is the seals around the axles, and am writing
mainly to ask about what sort of job this is to fix.  Am I in for an ordeal?


Any particularly important/useful tips for the job?

Also, does anyone know of a particularly good junkyard for Fords that is
nearish Boulder, CO?

Thanks in advance,
Chip

------------------------------

From: "Anthony Trantham" <atrantham bigfoot.com>
Subject: Electrical Noise
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 15:52:12 -0500

I have a '92 F-250 with 351 - 5 speed.  My problem is that for the past
couple of weeks I am getting bad electrical noise through both my radio and
Cobra 29 CB.  I got a filter from Radio Shack, and it did not help at all.
I have had the CB in the truck for about two years and have never had this
problem until the last couple of weeks.  I thought about the alternator, or
maybe even the battery, but I have not changed them yet.  Also I installed a
new antenna, and the CB is getting its power from the battery (connected to
the solenoid).  Any ideas what else to try.

Thanks in advance,
Anthony


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 17:00:48 -0400
From: flagship <Flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Noise

Did the noise start with the new antenna change?  If so, reroute your
antenna lead.  Otherwise, you may need to check some grounding straps
for corrosion.  New grounding points wouldn't hurt either.  You can't
have to many.




Anthony Trantham wrote:
>
> I have a '92 F-250 with 351 - 5 speed.  My problem is that for the past
> couple of weeks I am getting bad electrical noise through both my radio and
> Cobra 29 CB.  I got a filter from Radio Shack, and it did not help at all.
> I have had the CB in the truck for about two years and have never had this
> problem until the last couple of weeks.  I thought about the alternator, or
> maybe even the battery, but I have not changed them yet.  Also I installed a
> new antenna, and the CB is getting its power from the battery (connected to
> the solenoid).  Any ideas what else to try.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Anthony
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 14:10:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Derek Whiteside <derekw rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical Noise

Someone else on the list recently had a similar problem and discovered
that a new distributor cap and rotor fixed the problem. This seems to
"fit" your situation, where nothing has changed.


best regards,

Derek Whiteside
Albany, OR




--- flagship <Flagship worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> Did the noise start with the new antenna change?  If so, reroute your
> antenna lead.  Otherwise, you may need to check some grounding straps
> for corrosion.  New grounding points wouldn't hurt either.  You can't
> have to many.
>
>
>
>
> Anthony Trantham wrote:
> >
> > I have a '92 F-250 with 351 - 5 speed.  My problem is that for the
> past
> > couple of weeks I am getting bad electrical noise through both my
> radio and
> > Cobra 29 CB.  I got a filter from Radio Shack, and it did not help
> at all.
> > I have had the CB in the truck for about two years and have never
> had this
> > problem until the last couple of weeks.  I thought about the
> alternator, or
> > maybe even the battery, but I have not changed them yet.  Also I
> installed a
> > new antenna, and the CB is getting its power from the battery
> (connected to
> > the solenoid).  Any ideas what else to try.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Anthony
> >
> > =============================================================
> > To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> > Please remove this footer when replying.
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


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------------------------------

From: "Anthony Trantham" <atrantham bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical Noise
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 16:10:49 -0500

No, I changed the antenna after the noise started, but thanks I will check
my grounds.

Anthony

> Did the noise start with the new antenna change?  If so, reroute your
> antenna lead.  Otherwise, you may need to check some grounding straps
> for corrosion.  New grounding points wouldn't hurt either.  You can't
> have to many.


------------------------------

From: LGRanch aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 20:21:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear axle seals

If you have the typical you have an 8.8 rear end. With the age of the truck
it is a guess that thew axles are bad. The spicer axles have a history of
falling apart. You can pull the axles and just look at them. If the bearing
surface is scored or checked it is time for one of two things. 1) you can buy
axles, probably aftermarket, because used in good shape are rare. or 2) a set
of offset bearings with integrated seals. These bearings move the bearing
surface to another part of the axle. They cost around $50 a piece but are
cheaper than new axles.

If you do replace the axles then you need new bearings and seals. But if the
axles look very good then just replace the seals and try it.

If you do not know how to remove the axles just ask me. The seals are easy to
pull out with a pliers are screwdriver. The bearings can be a problem. You
need either an internal bearing puller on a slide hammer or an interanl jaw
puller.

I have done this job 3 times now. It is not that big of job if you have the
right tools.

------------------------------

From: "John S. Gaythorpe" <jsg tiac.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel in F150
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 20:53:10 -0400

Thanks to Stuart Falkner for the following suggestion:


> Hello John, I will tell you what little I know about your fuel system. If
> the pump is working you can hear it run for a few seconds when you first
> switch the ign on. Don't engage the starter, just switch it on and listen
> for the pump. It will only run for a few sec. because the computer
realizes
> the engine is not running and shuts the pump down.( It is a safety thing )
> If you hear the pump run, turn the switch off when the pump stops and then
> back on again. Continue to do this for a few minutes and it should work
some
> fuel up to the engine. This is also a good way to get fuel back to the
> engine if you ever run out of gas and it saves your starter & battery.
>  If the reservoir you are talking about is a can type device between the
> fuel tank and high pressure pump, then it is not supposed to have anything
> in it but fuel (no filter).
>   I think I read somewhere that the computer and,or, the collision switch
> controls the pump by interrupting the Ground to the pump instead of the
hot
> wire, which seems odd.
>   If you don't hear the pump run, then let me know and I will look for
some
> trouble shooting tips in the manuals I have for my 87 F150. ---Stuart
> Falkner--
>

I put the system back together on the weekend. Still no fuel. I had replaced
the Fuel Pump relay, wiring colors in Haynes manual were correct and pointed
to a relay under hood, near air intake.
Then replaced other relay which luckily had brought at same time in
Pep-Boys. This other relay was next to the fuel pump relay and is the EFI
relay. Magic! I here the fuel pump(s) cut in. (Did not give it time to fill
as above, before trying to turn it over! Duh!) Anyway fuel starts spewing
out of reservoir that I had opened up as the Haynes manual said there was a
filter in it. Quite obviously I could not get it to seal right. It was a
nasty thing to open in the first place, never mind remove by cutting bolts
off the truck!
Word of warning, pay attention when it says on the side of the unit: "Do not
remove cup"
Found it could test it easier by using compressed air, just blowing in not
tightly sealed.

So it seems at this juncture the EFI relay was bad. Maybe the high pressure
pump had gone bad (Got to justify buying a new one) Not sure why it would
just die otherwise and why it caused the fuel pumps not to run.

The new relays (fuel and EFI) look indentical, except for color, will have
to scribe original Ford part numbers from original relays on them.

Got a new reservoir today! Lucky the Ford dealer had one: Part #
FOTZ-9K044-A, this is different from the original stamped part number but it
is identical. No filter in them and labeled: "Do not remove cup."
Cost me $40.61.

Will take Stuarts advice above about letting the reservoir fill and letting
the system pressurize before trying to start it. Will post update on the
weekend as that will be next chance I get to work on it.

Thank you!

John.



>



------------------------------

From: "Mark Mcknight" <chicken521 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical Noise
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 02:07:10 GMT

Ya know.. it could also be corrsion in the lines.  I had a problem with my
truck once where it made this humming noise at idle.. and a whining noise at
higher RPMS... I put new wires from the battery and from the switching power
on it, and it stopped making the noise =)
Just a suggestion

Mark
'85 F-150


>From: "Anthony Trantham" <atrantham bigfoot.com>
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: [80-96-list] Electrical Noise
>Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 15:52:12 -0500
>
>I have a '92 F-250 with 351 - 5 speed.  My problem is that for the past
>couple of weeks I am getting bad electrical noise through both my radio and
>Cobra 29 CB.  I got a filter from Radio Shack, and it did not help at all.
>I have had the CB in the truck for about two years and have never had this
>problem until the last couple of weeks.  I thought about the alternator, or
>maybe even the battery, but I have not changed them yet.  Also I installed
>a
>new antenna, and the CB is getting its power from the battery (connected to
>the solenoid).  Any ideas what else to try.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Anthony
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying. ....


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