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Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 16:02:55 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #172
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80-96-list Digest Sun, 20 Aug 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 172

In This Issue:
Battery Size F 150
Hi Flow Cats
Re: do we need this
Re: do we need this
Re: do we need this
valve train noise?
Re: do we need this
Re: valve train noise?
Re: Battery Size F 150
Re: valve train noise?
Re: Battery Size F 150
Replacement Exhaust for '85 I-300
Results:  '92 Ignition Noise in Radio
Re: diagram needed
Smooth ride
diesel engine stalling out

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" <dharmier pdq.net>
Subject: Battery Size F 150
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 19:58:07 -0500

Found this in message board:

>I have a 351 stock engine and need proper battery size for this truck. I
had a new battery installed and it is >smaller.
>Thanks!

It has ALWAYS been my rule to stuff as big a battery as I can in my trucks.
The Beast has the two I got it with for now. The 91 and 92 both have
Duralast Gold batteries from Autozone in like group 27 F size.

Dave H.
Houston

90 F 350 Crew Diesel (The Beast)
91 F 150 SC (Dads)
92 F 150 SC (Sisters)

------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" <dharmier pdq.net>
Subject: Hi Flow Cats
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 19:52:59 -0500

This message board stuff messes with my head, but I found this:

>Hello all;

>Has anyone installed a high-flow cat on a '87 - '97 F-250/F-350 w/460? If
so:
>Which unit did you purchase? Why?
>Where did you purchase it?
>How much did you pay?
>Did you notice a difference? Power? Sound?

>Thanks, Paul

Well guys, I must confess to having a C#&\/y Hotrod. On this car to satisfy
the Nazis, we had two Hi Flow cats installed with the new exhaust with
crossover and 3 chamber flows. Total cost was like $625.00.
If these cats are in any way restrictive, I'd hate to think what kind of
performance we'd have without 'em!
The car flat scoots!!!

The Beast is okay, the 91 F 150 needs a new rear tank filler neck (and some
sheet metal) from a tread shredding Michelin (in their defense it was a way
worn tire), and the 92 is acting up according to sister (details to follow
when I know)

Dave H.
Houston
90 F 350 Crew Diesel (The Beast)
91 F 150 SC (Dads)
92 F 150 SC (Sisters)
81 El Camino 358/200R4/3.73 Posi (Weekend FUN car)

------------------------------

From: b-khanson juno.com
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 21:19:12 -0500
Subject: Re: do we need this


>I find that posting list inconvenient and a waste of bandwidth.

I second Al's comment.

>>The postings...help pay the bills.
>>So to answer your question, "Ken - do we need this?",
>>the answer is yes.
>>Ken Payne
>>Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

But, I'm also a realist.  If we need them to pay the freight,
so be it.  (But I'm also electing to zip right thru them.)

Bruce Hanson
Apple Valley, MN

------------------------------

From: Nite4x aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 22:46:55 EDT
Subject: Re: do we need this

In a message dated 8/20/00 10:23:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
b-khanson juno.com writes:

<< >I find that posting list inconvenient and a waste of bandwidth.

I second Al's comment.

>>The postings...help pay the bills.
>>So to answer your question, "Ken - do we need this?",
>>the answer is yes.
>>Ken Payne
>>Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

But, I'm also a realist.  If we need them to pay the freight,
so be it.  (But I'm also electing to zip right thru them.)
 >>
guys, just hit the delete key, and accept it

Joe
92 Nite

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 22:55:21 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: do we need this


>  >>
>guys, just hit the delete key, and accept it
>
>Joe
>92 Nite

If you use Eudora for your email software, you can
have it filter it out and not even download it off
the server.

:-)

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com



------------------------------

From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 23:09:26 EDT
Subject: valve train noise?

Guys,

   I have a 91 F-250 with a 460 EFI motor.  The other day i was pulling my
gooseneck full of hay.  I had to pass a car going about 35 or 40 in a 55. I
pulled out to pass and floored it.  The truck did as it normally would with a
heavy load, kicked down to 2nd then shifted to drive after i was done
passing.  I don't know about other 460's but my truck never revs above 4000
rpm unless you hold it in gear yourself.  I've seen newer 460's that take
4500 plus rpm.  Mine never reved about 4000 though.  Anyways after i let out
of it and drove about 1/4 mile i had to stop at a stop light, and noticed a
very very loud clicking sound.  It sound like it was right on top of the
passenger side valve cover.  Could a lifter have floated itself dry after all
that reving?  The oil pressure was as normal as usual (runs between the R and
M).  I drove it about another mile or two and it quit.  This all took place
two days ago.  Today i was testing it out to see if it was from the reving
that made it do that and i think it is.  I was going down the road 55 in OD
(turns 1550 rpm) and mashed it.  It kicked to 2nd and reved up to 4000, then
shifted to drive and then to OD again.  I then slowed back down to 55 and
drove normal and it started clicking/hammering/pinging again.  I pulled off
the side off the road and it is definatly coming from the passenger side
valve cover.  So, is this a collapsed lifter maybe with a piece of sludge in
it?  What about some of that GUNK MOTOR FLUSH before an oil change, or maybe
RISLONE?  Any ideas?  i usually run 10W-30 maxlife, but maybe i should go a
little thicker like to 20W-50 or something?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 20:40:07 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy <bobkennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: do we need this

All current email programs allow this now. You can do the same
with IE and Netscape.
If it is that much of a bother to any one, let me know. Speak
your piece and include your email OS and I'll help you set it up.

Bob


Ken Payne wrote:

> >  >>
> >guys, just hit the delete key, and accept it
> >
> >Joe
> >92 Nite
>
> If you use Eudora for your email software, you can
> have it filter it out and not even download it off
> the server.
>
> :-)
>
> Ken Payne
> Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> http://www.ford-trucks.com
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

From: "Mike Persell" <persell home.com>
Subject: Re: valve train noise?
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 23:16:19 -0500

I haven't messed with the 429-460 engines for quite a while but the last one
I had do that was a 72 Ranchero with a 460. I ended up replacing the
pushrods and the problem went away. The 460 back then oiled through the
pushrods and the rockers would dry out if the pushrod got some junk in it.

This problem was also found in some 460's running the Rhoads lifters in
their early days.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of
WoodStck45 aol.com
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000 10:09 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] valve train noise?


Guys,

   I have a 91 F-250 with a 460 EFI motor.  The other day i was pulling my
gooseneck full of hay.  I had to pass a car going about 35 or 40 in a 55. I
pulled out to pass and floored it.  The truck did as it normally would with
a
heavy load, kicked down to 2nd then shifted to drive after i was done
passing.  I don't know about other 460's but my truck never revs above 4000
rpm unless you hold it in gear yourself.  I've seen newer 460's that take
4500 plus rpm.  Mine never reved about 4000 though.  Anyways after i let out
of it and drove about 1/4 mile i had to stop at a stop light, and noticed a
very very loud clicking sound.  It sound like it was right on top of the
passenger side valve cover.  Could a lifter have floated itself dry after
all
that reving?  The oil pressure was as normal as usual (runs between the R
and
M).  I drove it about another mile or two and it quit.  This all took place
two days ago.  Today i was testing it out to see if it was from the reving
that made it do that and i think it is.  I was going down the road 55 in OD
(turns 1550 rpm) and mashed it.  It kicked to 2nd and reved up to 4000, then
shifted to drive and then to OD again.  I then slowed back down to 55 and
drove normal and it started clicking/hammering/pinging again.  I pulled off
the side off the road and it is definatly coming from the passenger side
valve cover.  So, is this a collapsed lifter maybe with a piece of sludge in
it?  What about some of that GUNK MOTOR FLUSH before an oil change, or maybe
RISLONE?  Any ideas?  i usually run 10W-30 maxlife, but maybe i should go a
little thicker like to 20W-50 or something?
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 01:54:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Battery Size F 150

<< It has ALWAYS been my rule to stuff as big a battery as I can in my trucks.
The Beast has the two I got it with for now. The 91 and 92 both have
Duralast Gold batteries from Autozone in like group 27 F size. >>

This is one of those rare cases where "size doesn't matter" (where have I
heard THAT before?)  The physical size of the battery is unimportant, it's
the CCA (cold cranking amps) that really counts.  I was able to fit a group
65 battery in my Bronco with a CCA of 850.... It'll burn up the starter
before the battery goes dead.  I left my dome light on for sixteen hours last
week without knowing it, and noticed when I went to start up that it turned
over a bit slower than normal, that's when I noticed the 3 interior lamps
were on.  Which reminds me, winter is coming (ugh!) and it's time to go out
and check and clean the battery terminals and service the engine.... you know
how it is, the neighbors always come the house with the Ford truck in the
driveway when they need a jump start.
Alex



------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 01:55:02 EDT
Subject: Re: valve train noise?

WoodStck45 aol.com writes:

<<  kicked to 2nd and reved up to 4000, then
shifted to drive and then to OD again.  I then slowed back down to 55 and
drove normal and it started clicking/hammering/pinging again.  I pulled off
the side off the road and it is definatly coming from the passenger side
valve cover.  So, is this a collapsed lifter maybe with a piece of sludge in
it?   >>

A more likely cause for your noise is a sticky valve (hanging up in the
guide).  Since high will RPM's tend to pump up the lifters, the valve(s) will
be held open (little or no noise, but that cylinder will be dead until the
lifter bleeds down a little) rather than the lifter collapsing.  In either
case, the use of some sort of engine solvent  will likely help the situation.
My old 390's used to "float" the valves like that when I got a little too
enthusiastic in 1st or 2nd gear.
Alex

------------------------------

From: soffiler centraltools.com
Subject: Re: Battery Size F 150
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:11:40 -0400

> This is one of those rare cases where "size doesn't matter"
> (where have I
> heard THAT before?)  The physical size of the battery is
> unimportant, it's
> the CCA (cold cranking amps) that really counts.

Absolutely agree, it's CCA that truly measures battery capacity.  However,
you do find some correlation between CCA and physical size.  It's a matter
of physics.  More CCA's equals more lead to store them in.


.... you know
> how it is, the neighbors always come the house with the Ford
> truck in the
> driveway when they need a jump start.

Aaargh, you just reminded me of a frustrating incident last winter.  It was
a relatively warm and rainy winter here in southern New England.
(Historically, snowfall totals have run from 16" up to 134" around here;
last year was one of those sixteen inch winters).  One wet morning, with no
warning, I had a no-start.  Cranking was healthy, but no fire and no Check
Engine light.  I had a big day at work and zero time to mess with it, so I
was forced to have it towed to a trusty local mechanic.  Diagnosis:  spark
plug wires.  "Blue lightning all over the place" he reported.  The truck was
exactly three years old and 40,000 miles at the time.  I recommend a fresh
set of wires, oh, about every 40K or so!

Steve Offiler
soffiler centraltools.com
'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:38:04 -0400
From: "Koser, Richard W" <richard.w.koser lmco.com>
Subject: Replacement Exhaust for '85 I-300

Hi all,

It is time to replace the muffler and some exhaust pipe on my '85 I-300. I
would like to put in something that will provide a performance boost. I was
thinking of a flow master with 3" pipe. Is this a good choice? Also, I Have
heard many posts mention a "cat back" system. Does a "cat back" system
include a new catalytic converter or is not?

Thanks for your suggestions,
Rich

------------------------------

From: LeeCraner aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 11:09:50 EDT
Subject: Results:  '92 Ignition Noise in Radio

Many thanks to all who contributed suggestions to cure the ignition (spark
plug) noise that plagued my '92 F150 (4.9L) factory radio and ham radio.  To
recap the suggestions:

Make sure plugs and wires are high quality suppression type.
Install a noise filter in the 12V line going to the radio.
Have the Ford fuel pump RF noise service bulletin work done.
Make sure all of the original grounding straps are in place.
Install additional grounding straps to the hood and exhaust system.
Route the ham radio's 12V and ground leads directly to the battery.
Shield the radio's 12V inside RG8 braid and keep them as far from the engine
as possible.
Make a grounded metal shield for the distributor and ignition coil.

And the fix that cured the problem in my truck (your results my differ).....

Replace the distributor cap and rotor with high quality units.

Apparently, there was enough excess to arcing under my ignition cap to cause
the problem, regardless of all of the other measures listed above.  A stock
Motorcraft cap and rotor solved the problem.

Again, thanks to all who responded.

Lee

------------------------------

From: Lingus0169 aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 12:17:08 EDT
Subject: Re: diagram needed

hi, i have an 82 351w and i took it to get rebuilt, well anyhow..i took the
alternator and power steering brackets off. well, i just got my engine back
and i am putting everything back on and the only brackets i cant figure out
how they go is the power steering pump brackets..granted i dont need the
power steering, but it would be nice to have it..if anyone has some diagrams
or can kinda show me the way it would be greatly appreciated..and i already
looked in my manual for a diagram, but there arent any that can show me the
way...thankx in advance
nick
82 351w 400hp
85 f150 xl 4x4 3.55's in dana 44 ford 8.8"

------------------------------

From: "Joel" <treefort prodigy.net>
Subject: Smooth ride
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 14:16:40 -0500


My truck rides rough!!
I have a friend with a 86 bronco that rides very good
just rolls over the bumps mine feels like it slams into them.
I know the bronco would ride better in the back because of the extra wieght. but the front rides 200% better than mine
are there things I can do.
can someone look at the door sticker and see the load capacity of thier front springs.
mine is over 3500lbs on the front and I know that it is a HDversion. but it just rides awfull?

any help?

Thanks.
______________________________
Joel Thomas treefort prodigy.net
1984 Ford F-150HD,351W,T-18,
NP208,9",37" Co-Ops,


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 15:19:54 -0400
From: "Goodwin, Jerry" <Jerry.Goodwin GD-CS.COM>
Subject: diesel engine stalling out


Can anybody answer why this happens:

Vehicle--F250 1991 with 5 speed.

When shifting between gears or just pushing the clutch in and letting the
engine go back to idle, the engine goes below idle and stops. It does not do
this everytime however. As long as i'm giving it fuel it runs OK.  It is ....


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