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Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. From: owner-80-96-list-digest  ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest) To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com Subject: 80-96-list-digest V4 #15 Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com Sender: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com Errors-To: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com Precedence: bulk 80-96-list-digest Monday, January 17 2000 Volume 04 : Number 015 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: FTE 80-96 - Hard to turn ignition key FTE 80-96 - Re: Brake Lines Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard to turn ignition key Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard to turn ignition key Re: FTE 80-96 - Propane FTE 80-96 - 87 Ranger Codes Re: FTE 80-96 - 87 Ranger Codes FTE 80-96 - Hard Starting RE: FTE 80-96 - Hard Starting FTE 80-96 - 1993 F150 w/A40D Trans. Re: FTE 80-96 - 1993 F150 w/A40D Trans. Re: FTE 80-96 - Fan clutches: how to tell if they are good Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch Fan Re: FTE 80-96 - DI propane? ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 06:57:49 -0600 From: "Kevin Lindstedt" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hard to turn ignition key I own a 1986 F150 XLT Lariet w/300-6 and C6 transmission. When the outside temperature falls below 20 degrees F the key is exceedingly difficult to turn, and if the temp is really cold, I can *just* turn the key enough to start the engine. I don't believe this would be fixed by spraying any lube into the key cylinder. I did a search on the NHTSA site and found the following: Service Bulletin Number: BC2154900329 Bulletin Sequence Number: 071 Date of Bulletin: 9003 NHTSA Item Number: SB020764 Make: FORD TRUCK Model: F150 Year: 1986 Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH Summary: INSTRUCTIONS ON REPAIR OF IGNITION SWITCH THAT IS HARD TO TURN DUE TO FREEZING TEMPERATURE-FORD TRUCK BB I tried calling a few Ford dealers with this info, but none of them keep TSBs back into the '80s. Has anyone else encountered this same problem and if so, how did you fix it? Thanks in advance for your help. Kevin Lindstedt lindstdt netnitco.net 1986 F150 XLT Lariet == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 10:34:29 EST From: BanksRVA aol.com Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Brake Lines Hi, has anyone had any experience with companies who offer pre bent brake lines? If anyone has, can you tell me who you used. Thanks, Joe 82 F100 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 12:50:47 EST From: FULSZBRONC aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard to turn ignition key << When the outside temperature falls below 20 degrees F the key is exceedingly difficult to turn, and if the temp is really cold, I can *just* turn the key enough to start the engine. I don't believe this would be fixed by spraying any lube into the key cylinder. >> I ran into the same problem on an '83 - in fact it was so stiff when cold that the switch would not completely return to the run position on its own.... causing the accessories and gauges to be inop. I took the steering wheel off and once inside the column started cleaning and inspecting everything. I didn't find anything broken or worn beyond use, so I re-lubing everthing as I put it back together and the complaint was cured. Hopfully it'll be that simple for you too..... all that is needed is a steering wheel puller and a bit of patience. Good luck. Alex == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 17:08:24 EST From: LGRanch aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard to turn ignition key Got the same problem, never have been able to fix it.. Post with the answer if you get it fixed == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 18:20:00 EST From: Kbeverwein aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Propane Here in San Diego we are paying 1.59 plus for diesel. Brian '67 Econoline van '86 F250 '83 E150 (custom made in to Pick-up) '99 F250 Crew cab Powerstroke '98 Contour == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 18:25:03 EST From: Kbeverwein aol.com Subject: FTE 80-96 - 87 Ranger Codes Friend of mine has an '87 Ranger 2.9. He is receiving a Code telling him that there is a problem with the O2 Sensor. He replaced it and is still getting same code. Does anyone have an idea what else may be causing him to receive this code? Brian == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:23:47 EST From: SlamedF150 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 87 Ranger Codes u have to reset the computer and wait a couple of days, then take another reading == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:13:41 -0600 From: vince a smith Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hard Starting My 1993 F150 302FI is having a very hard time starting on the first ignition key cycle. If I turn the key to on for about two second then off and on again (allowing fuel pump to cycle on) it will start just about normal. Any ideas?? Thanks Vince Smith == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 23:11:54 -0400 From: "Brad Watts" Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Hard Starting Some times, a fuel pump relay can go bad and not pull up on the first cycle of the key, The second cycle of the key seems to give the relay just enough bump to close it's contacts. Once it closes, it stays closed as it's not burnt, just sticking. When the relays are just starting to fail, they will eventually pull up on their own most times if you hold the key in the start position long enough given the illusion that your truck is just hard to start when in fact, it starts as soon as the relay contacts make. I learned this one from experience and am also told that the ignition relay can do the same thing. Given the low cost of these relays, I replaced both of them. You can check for this problem by getting a friend to try to start the truck while you get ready to tap the relays with a screwdriver. If the truck starts when the relays are tapped, you've found the problem! They are located on the drivers side (on this continent anyway) under the hood about 1/2 way back. Brad Watts / AMT E-mail wattsb nbnet.nb.ca Web www.amt.nb.ca - -----Original Message----- From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of vince a smith Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 10:14 PM To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hard Starting My 1993 F150 302FI is having a very hard time starting on the first ignition key cycle. If I turn the key to on for about two second then off and on again (allowing fuel pump to cycle on) it will start just about normal. Any ideas?? Thanks Vince Smith == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 22:17:10 EST From: Spruce1495 aol.com Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1993 F150 w/A40D Trans. I have (2) questions: 1. Does anyone know of a device to allow a more positive shift in the A4OD without rebuilding or removal. I have heard of a unit that simply plugs into existing control, but can't find info on it. 2. I have had a metallic vibration sound coming from the transmission when shifting from OD to normal Drive. Ford replaced the torque converter at 58K, but that didn't seem to have any or little effect. The truck has 91K on it, and the trans never has given me any trouble, even towing my 5th wheel. Whaddayathink?! Bill in KY == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:14:17 -0800 From: Bob Kennedy Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1993 F150 w/A40D Trans. Enlighten me, Bill. I can't recall an A4OD. What rig is it in? Bob Spruce1495 aol.com wrote: > I have (2) questions: > 1. Does anyone know of a device to allow a more positive shift in the A4OD > without rebuilding or removal. I have heard of a unit that simply plugs into > existing control, but can't find info on it. > > 2. I have had a metallic vibration sound coming from the transmission when > shifting from OD to normal Drive. Ford replaced the torque converter at 58K, > but that didn't seem to have any or little effect. The truck has 91K on it, > and the trans never has given me any trouble, even towing my 5th wheel. > Whaddayathink?! > > Bill in KY > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 22:53:51 -0600 From: "DannyF" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fan clutches: how to tell if they are good > Thanks all for your help on the fan clutch. I think I will look for a > Hayden if that is the best. I too hate buying some of the junk at > AutoZone. > I have dealt with NAPA for 30 years, but sometimes I fall into the > AutoZone > lure. Who sells Hayden? NAPA has them. Danny > > Mine certainly does not roar. > Danny fitz011 ev1.net == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 22:53:51 -0600 From: "DannyF" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch Fan > It will burn a little more fuel, any other reaction is negligible. > > Bob Warm up will be extended but Bob may be correct in saying its negligible. However, you may not like the constant roaring as you accelerate. Generally, the more cfm you move w/a fan, the louder it is. Danny > Kevin Crandall wrote: > > > There has been a lot of talk about clutch fans lately, and I have a > > question. Can you just remove the clutch fan and replace it with an after > > market fan that rotates all the time? Will it cause any problems? Thanks > > > > Kevin Danny fitz011 ev1.net == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:57:59 +1100 From: les williams Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - DI propane? Hi Chris, It's already been done. If you remove the fuel injectors, and replace with propane, and you use liquid propane, the injector will freeze, so a gas is still the way to go. The Eurpeans have a few models using true DI but it is EXPENSIVE, and now you are back to the reliability of injectors. Diesel fuel trucks using 30% diesel injection & 70% propane mix, a Dutch creation, I believe, and Phred can probably give us even more options. GM in Oz has spent a lot of money & time integrating petrol & propane, being controlled by the ECU. This system uses both fuels together for the optimum performance, and this is a vast over simplification, but for example under 3,000rpm, it will run on propane, over 3,000 it will use petrol. Of course Ford & GM will nail you for software piracy, if you manage to open up their proprietary programs....... Take your pick. The choices are enough to make your head spin!! A propane installer, over here is doing M.Benz cars, where the bosch jetronic injection system is too old & expensive to repair, some of these systems are 30-35 years old. The fuel pump drive is disconnected and injectors are sealed off and left in to look stock and the propane mixer is installed in the back of the air cleaner, where it can't be seen. Don't think these cars can't go, these 6.9 ltr 2 ton+ vehicles are still capable if burning rubber in 1st & 2nd gear and pulling over 150mph top speed. The only real problem I have with your suggestion is the issue of simplicity. Have you taken the propane mixer apart? The OHG -450X, if you count the return spring, has TWO (2) moving parts. There is nothing to them, they make the Pommy S.U. or a Briggs & Stratton mower carby look complex. In this day of increasingly complex engine control systems that are fast outsmarting the dealers, I find it refreshingly simple to use. Just watch this list to see how much trouble fuel tanks & pumps cause, not a worry on a dual tank propane truck. There isn't even a bronze sinter fuel filter to clog, or needle & seat to fail. There is not even a cold start choke control. What is a FI filter worth?. I am using the 'Over the Hill Gang-450X'. This mixer next to an injection system, is in my opinion still going to be more reliable and less prone to failure than injectors. Why do you need propane injection to up the Comp. Ratio? Do it anyway. 10 to 1 is a good start, especially if you are getting the 110 octane propane. Are you having pre ignition problems ? Has your dizzy been optimized ( re-curved ) for propane? By all means install the pentium III computer in your truck, but use it to control 'mission critical' systems like the video wall, in the back, or to automate the stereo system, and the CD, DVD stacker and disco lighting system. Use it to control the air compressor for the air bag suspension ride height control. ;-)) open & shut the sun roof, or the air conditioning control......and still keep up with the latest breaking news on this web site. regards Les Lost in the Land of OZ Chris McKinnon wrote: > > > DI or direct injection where the fuel is added directly to the cylinder just > prior to the spark. This is the same (almost) system that diesels use. The > differance bieng in the diesel there is no spark... A DI head would have an > extra hole in each combustion chamber for the injector. I'm not sure if > there is space in the head for an injector or if it would come out somewhere > under the rockers. The idea behind DI is that compression ratios canbe > higher without any pre-detonation problems, not to mention that the engine.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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