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From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V4 #3
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80-96-list-digest Wednesday, January 5 2000 Volume 04 : Number 003



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Transfer Case stuck in 2WD on 88 F150
Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausted Manifolds
FTE 80-96 - Lubing the Chassis
FTE 80-96 - Re: Hi-Idle
FTE 80-96 - Re:Exhaust Leak
FTE 80-96 - bad coil?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Hi-Idle
FTE 80-96 - Slave Cyl
Re: FTE 80-96 - Water Pump Woes!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing Update
Re: FTE 80-96 - Sometimes Hard To Start
FTE 80-96 - Water pump woes
Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausted Manifolds
FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
Re: FTE 80-96 - bad coil?
Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
FTE 80-96 - Exhaust manifolds
FTE 80-96 - Tranny
Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 08:43:19 -0500
From: William Bowie lucent.com>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Transfer Case stuck in 2WD on 88 F150

I just found out about this group yesterday an hope you can help. If
there is a FAQ with the answer please point me to it cause I couldn't
find it.
The problem is that the transfer case is stuck in 2 wheel drive. The
conditions leading to this are:
-Everything fine
-Clutch goes bad in summer time
-Replace clutch leaving front drive shaft out since U-joints are bad
-Change fluid in transfer case since some leaked out and has 120K miles
-Replace front drive shaft after around 1 month
-Shifter stuck

The linkage is installed correctly and does move the input shaft a
minimal
amount. I've tried driving with the hubs locked for days with periodic
attempts to engage. I've tried going in reverse but no luck.
According to the ford manual the internals doesn't look to complicated.
I can't find anyone who has taken one apart or knows anything about the
inner workings of a transfer case. Is this a job for a professional?
I'm quite capable but if this requires all kind of special tools to
reassemble I know the cost to have it put back together after I take it
apart will be much higher then if I let them do the whole job.

All help is greatly appreciated
Thanks
Bill Bowie
wbowie lucent.com
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 09:30:17 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki little-mountain.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausted Manifolds

>... By the late 70s, Ford
>>built the best trucks they have ever made- before or since. ...
>>
>>Blake
>
>Blake,
>
>I agree, but I'd love to have a 79 F150, 4X4, 3.70 gears, 31x10.f0-15, with
>a modern, FI 300 or 302 and overdrive 5 speed (no Mazda). If the difference
>between my 93 Mustang and 74 Pinto (both 2.3s) is an indicator, the later
>300 or 302 in the 79 chassis would be heaven. Should deliver 20+ mpg when
>used as a car and laugh at any load the truck could safely carry or tow.
>

My favorite Ford engine is a 390 - even without a computer, I would take
one. I would go with 35" tires and 4.56 gears.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 08:43:42 -0600
From: Andy Norris allenpress.com>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Lubing the Chassis

Don't laugh.

Before anyone responds with RTFM or anything like that, I use my Chilton's
manual a lot. And it's pretty sad how much it doesn't cover. Regarding
chassis lubrication, there are two small paragraphs. And it refers me to
the "lubrication chart". But I can't find any "lubrication chart" in my
Chilton's.

What do I need to do this? And where are the grease fittings on an '89 F250
2WD SC?

There are a lot of things I'm probably neglecting since I've started doing
more of the work myself.

Thanks for your help,

Andy Norris
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 08:52:27 -0600
From: Robert M Sands juno.com>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Hi-Idle

I spent the holiday weekend(s) replacing the head gasket in my 92 F-150
300-I6.The head was warped and had to be re-surfaced. It looked
intimidating at first,
but the R& R went well. The one thing that is not the same as before the
tear down is that it idles faster now. I was meticulous in labeling all
the connectors and vacuum lines, and positive all is where it should be.
The only thing that I can think of, that might be causing the faster
idle, is that I disconnected the negative side of the battery before I
started the tear down. Does the computer have to re-learn the idle
setting? Any ideas ? Thanks

________________________________________________________________




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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:12:24 EST
From: BanksRVA aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:Exhaust Leak

Hey Folks, I got in my truck today, drove for about 30 minutes
and my cab stunk of exhaust fumes. I tried, but can't find the
leak. Any suggestions?
Thank You,
Joe
82 300 I-6
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 09:42:43 -0600 (CST)
From: DTrowbridge webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - bad coil?

mornin guys,
i think my coil is shot, but let me pass this by yall to see if it is
something else. about 2 weeks ago i noticed that the truck was loseing
mid to high rpm power. i had no power higher than 20 mph in first gear
with the truck floored. then the truck started smoking at WOT. last
night i had to change out spark plugs that i had just installed about a
week ago. they looked like they were carbon fouled. this morning i
started the truck up to let it warm up. when i came back outside to go
to work, the truck had died. i started it back up, and it reved up like
it normally does, them died. i tried spraying starting fluid and
starting it, but it did the same thing and died within about 1 second.
it is getting fuel, fuel filter has 1000 miles on it as do the cap and
rotor and plug wires. but it looks like the coil is still factory and
the truck has 159,000 miles on it. any help would be greatly
appreciated since i am missing work today, well i don't really miss it!

David
85 F-150 300 I6

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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 07:57:21 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Hi-Idle

The computer will need to re-learn the values again. Should be that way a
couple of days.

Bob


Robert M Sands wrote:

> I spent the holiday weekend(s) replacing the head gasket in my 92 F-150
> 300-I6.The head was warped and had to be re-surfaced. It looked
> intimidating at first,
> but the R& R went well. The one thing that is not the same as before the
> tear down is that it idles faster now. I was meticulous in labeling all
> the connectors and vacuum lines, and positive all is where it should be.
> The only thing that I can think of, that might be causing the faster
> idle, is that I disconnected the negative side of the battery before I
> started the tear down. Does the computer have to re-learn the idle
> setting? Any ideas ? Thanks
>
> ________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:48:45 -0600
From: "Stephen W.Hansen" minot.com>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Slave Cyl

Sorry I didn't reply sooner, sometimes you figure there would be a mass of
replies covering the same topic.
Anyone "could" do the replacement yourself but do you want to? I did my
clutch last summer on my 92 F-250. It was WORK, but not imposable. The F-250
transmission is real heavy. Due to the work involved, you might want to do
an entire clutch change while your in there. I was doing the clutch because
it started slipping, and when I saw where and how the slave cylinder was
located, I replaced it to prevent leakage later.
The Slave cylinder is a "circle" type that goes around the output shaft of
the transmission. It pretty much "pops" apart and you put the new piece in.
be sure you have the correct one, there was a size difference in the one
that Napa gave me and it didn't fit just right. I had to return to Napa to
get the right one. It is definitely something you want to get right the
first time.
There is no adjustment on the slave cylinder, all you do is bleed it. My
pedals do not line up with each other, I was going to go under the dash and
look at it, but never have.
So unless the clutch isn't working right, or your getting fluid leaking from
it out of the bellhousing. I wouldn't mess with it. I think it cost my
friend 500-600 dollars to have the ford dealership do his clutch (a F-250
4WD). A clutch pack is about 200, the slave cylinder about 25 dollars.
The only other thing I had go wrong was after I got the transmission up (Did
I mention it was HEAVY?) we did a test start up. I heard a tickticktick as
it was running. So out the transmission came again. The new pressure plate
was hitting a rib on the bellhousing, just a little bit. A quick grind with
the disk grinder solved that and it all went back together.
Stephen Hansen
92 F250
50 F-1

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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:51:13 -0600
From: "DannyF" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Water Pump Woes!

> I think I have a water pump problem. I have an '83 F100 with a 302 and
> on
> really cold days (or nites) when the engine is cold, I get a puddle of
> coolant on the drive way just under the pulleys on the front of the
> engine.
> The coolant weeps until engine warms up and then seems to stop. There is
> a
> chattering noise from the area of the front of the engine... water pump?
>
> Any thoughts?

The chattering *might* be from the water pump but just the coolant
"weeping" is enough evidence for you to change it and find out. The
seal/bearing is history.
Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:51:13 -0600
From: "DannyF" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing Update

> > > I live in eastern Canada and we have a lot of cold and damp winter
> weather.
> > > This is the season I dread as it makes cold start up and driving a
> pain....
> > > let me explain.
> > >
> > > I have an '83 F100 with a 302, 2 BBL, automatic that is completely
> stock.
> > > The choke works well under all conditions except one... when it is cold
> (32F
> > > to about 40F) and damp. When starting the truck for the first time in
> the
> > > morning it starts fine. However when I drive away and come to a stop at
> an
> > > intersection the truck usually stalls and is difficult to keep idling
> for
> > > the first 5 minutes of operation. After that, the idle speed picks up to
> a
> > > normal level and for the rest of the day works OK.
> > >
> > > The choke operation is fine and the wires and cap are OK. If the
> temperature
> > > is above 40F and raining, no problem so I don't think it is an
> electrical
> > > problem. I am told that is a problem that is called carburetor icing the
> > > happens on a cold engine under certain environmental conditions.
> > >
> > > My question... what can I do to eliminate or minimize the problem?
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > John Bowman
> > >
> > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> > >
> >
> > Hey John Your carb is most likly icing. It does not have
> > to be below 32 F for the carb to ice. We all know that a
> > pressure drop results in cooler temps right? well how
> > much cooler do yo think it is inside the carb where the
> > pressure is 15-178 inches BELOW atmosphere? Cold
> > enough to form ice crystals when it is damp! if you still
> > have the stock air cleaner installed, The little flapper door
> > in the snorkel portion is designed to shut off out side air
> > and draw from the flex hose up from the ex manifold
> > introcucing warmer air to give the under hood temp
> > enough time to come up. There is a small sensor
> > mounted inside your air cleaner that allows or disallows
> > vacuum to the door motor. in this era I believe they called
> > this a thermactor air system. If all the parts are there
> > check out theoperation of each piece, suck on the
> > controler for the door does it move? if so and all the
> > hoses are installed properly replace the sensor/switch.
> > Good luck!
> > Jim Flinchbaugh 87 F150 4x4 EFI5.0
>
> Your climate makes your truck very dependent on 3 systems to
> work properly on startup and pre-warmup operation: choke(seems
> your covered here), intake air preheat(very important and Jim's
> covered that) and int. manifold "crossover" heat. This heats up the
> int. manifold during cold operation by diverting hot exh. gas thru a
> passage in the int. manifold. It will assist in warming the carb also
> by conduction.
>
> See that little canister on the exh. manifold/header pipe w/a vac
> line? Thats controlling exh. flow to the intake man. If you have a
> bad vac. switch, stuck valve or bad diaphram, it won't work
> correctly.
> Danny
> danf01 worldnet.att.net
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
> I really appreciate all the help so here is an update.
>
> OK... Here is what I found. The choke seems to be working OK.
>
> The "flapper" on the end of the air cleaner closes while cold and draws
> warm
> air from the plenum around the exhaust manifold. However it remains
> closed
> when the truck warms up! What gives? If I trace the vacuum line from it
> goes
> to a module in the side of the air cleaner. I removed the vacuum line
> from
> the module and the "flapper" snapped open so the "flapper" seems to be
> working OK. The module on the air cleaner seems to be the problem but
> that
> is not an issue when cold.
>
> Now I see the valve that is on the end of the exhaust manifold. When the
> engine is cold that valve should be closed thus preventing exhaust gasses
> to
> pass to the tail pipe. Now you say that these gasses are routed to heat
> the
> intake manifold but how do they get there and once through the intake
> manifold, where are the gasses routed? I have yet to test this valve but
> will watch it on the next cold start up.
>
> Anything else I should be checking?

Yes, sounds like your "module" on the air cleaner housing is bad.
Its nothing but a vacuum switch. When it senses cold temps, it
opens diverting vac to the flapper diaphram and the flapper closes
diverting hot/warm air to the intake. With warm temps there is no
vac to the diaphram and the flapper stays open.

Onto the "crossover" heat operation: Once again, on your truck
operated by a vacuum switch(screwed into an water passage or
water outlet). When cold the switch opens diverting vac to the
"canister"(diaphram housing) and a "flapper" closes diverting hot
exh. gas into a separate passage in the middle of the intake man.
This will warm up the intake and carb area for manageable
driveability when cold.

The exh. gas is merely passed through the pass. side head, into a
separate intake "crossover" port, into the driver's side head thats
ported out to the driver's side exh. manifold. Theres no mixing of
exh/int gasses here.

If all this checks out(you've already found 1 problem) a choke adj
might be in order.
Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:51:13 -0600
From: "DannyF" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Sometimes Hard To Start

Engine has ~100K mi w/original starter? Change it. Thats all that
most Ford starters are good for. Your symptoms sound exactly like
one giving up.

The Ford solenoid is usually pretty reliable. That clicking you hear
is the sol. doing its job.

If you want to be sure, just have the starter load tested. There are
plenty of places in SA that will test it for free(on the truck) in about
5 mins.

> Justin,
>
> Did you clean both ends of the wires and cables? Next time it won't start
> clamp a jumper cable to one of the big terminals on the selenoid at tape
> the
> other end of the cable to the other big terminal on the selenoid--it could
> be a cruddy selenoid. Make sure it is out of gear first. Also, it is
> possible the starter brushes are cruddy--a good soaking with WD-40 might
> cure that.
>
> Ken
>
> >Folks,
> >
> >Got in the truck yesterday, everything started fine. Stopped to get donuts
> >about a block away and when I got back in the truck wouldn't start. I had
> >to
> >get the clerk to give me a jump (always have cables). It started right up
> >on the
> >first try while connected to the jumper cables...OK the battery is finally
> >shot I thought.
> >
> >Went to work (had a presentation or would have gone to get battery then)
> >and
> >sure
> >enough had to be jumped again after work (expected that).
> >
> >This morning, hoped in and it started right up. Soooo, I took the battery
> >to
> >Monkey
> >Wards and had them test it...OK under the regular test and the load test
> >(gotta
> >love Motorcraft). Cleaned cables, connectors, posts, top of battery (looks
> >good!).
> >Corrosion wasn't that bad, I try to keep an eye on it, but there was some
> >build up.
> >Put battery back in, truck started right up. Went out an hour ago to go to
> >the store,
> >and what do you know...click, click, click and finally it started. I none
> >the less took
> >the wife's car.
> >
> >What's going on...The truck is a '95 F-150, 300 I6, 5spd., will have owned
> >5
> >years
> >in May..so the battery (OEM) is at least 5 years old and has probably been
> >on-line that long
> >as well.
> >
> >Is it the battery? Starter?
> >
> >I have never had a problem with my truck and I don't want to get stuck
> >because of a damn
> >maintenance item.


Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:56:27 -0600
From: "Stephen W.Hansen" minot.com>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Water pump woes

With the engine off (it would be difficult and hazardous to try this with
the engine on) Grab the fan and try to shake it from side to side. Any
movement isn't good. Disconnect the fan/serpentine belt and spin the pump..
it should be free feeling.
The leakage just tells you the seal inside is starting to go out. Not
critical, but notable. Watch it, but change it when you feel like it or when
it starts leaking fluid all the time. If there is any bearing play or noise
from the water pump, it is really bad, change it real soon.

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Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 06:39:55 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausted Manifolds

Hi Ken,
Good to hear your back.
I never thought I would see the day I would appear to be ever be
defending
stock manifolds, any excuse to be rid of them is a good one. In all my
years I
have only replaced one set of extractors due to rusting out. That is a
falcom gt
that gets driven twice a year, and one of those trips includes the
inspection,
under these circumstances, it doesn't suprise me.
Yes, I do appreciate extractors can be a pain in the ar*e and other
regions
to install, and as a general rule, the cheaper, the bigger the hassles
fitting,
but almost every vehicle I have owned has had extractors installed, If
you have
a gas axe available, it does make the job easy(er).
As you point out, fuel economy can be gained, and if the truck is your
daily
driver then rusting out should be of minimal concern, especially
considering
your alternatives.

regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ


ken haley wrote:

> Les,
> Anyway, headers are not without problems, either, but I've found headers
> much easier to afford ($$$), find (except 302 with clutch), and
> install/change out (oh, my aching back) than manifolds.
>
> Headers, properly selected and engine tuned to match, clearly have
> performance advantages. As much as I drive, fuel economy alone makes headers
> financially attractive, even if I have to swipe some of a Mustang GT every
> couple years when the rust out (which none have yet).
>
> Ken
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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 17:52:44 -0600
From: "a b" uab.campuscwix.net>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford

My wife's F-150 didn't make the millennial change-over I think due to a
rod not being Y2k compatible. Anyhow, she has found a '96 C***y 1500
with 350 5speed and 3:42 rear, as well as '94 125k mile F-250 diesel.
I'm trying to figure out if the C***y will pull her horse/trailer at
2500lbs and can't remember what the rear ratio was in the F-150 (3:73
maybe), and/or trying to find out what the final ratios are for the
F-150 vs 1500. Somebody posted a link for ratio info once. I'm kinda
leery of the F-250 'cause of the miles. Somebody once told me they last
forever. I know the suspension would be better, but she puts probably
35k a year on a vehicle so it wouldn't be long till it was up to where
the F-150 gave up (230,000). Which truck would you get?
thanks,
Bill

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 18:04:42 -0600
From: "Dennis Thompson" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "a b" uab.campuscwix.net>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 5:52 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford


> My wife's F-150 didn't make the millennial change-over I think due to a
> rod not being Y2k compatible. Anyhow, she has found a '96 C***y 1500
> with 350 5speed and 3:42 rear, as well as '94 125k mile F-250 diesel.
> I'm trying to figure out if the C***y will pull her horse/trailer at
> 2500lbs and can't remember what the rear ratio was in the F-150 (3:73
> maybe), and/or trying to find out what the final ratios are for the
> F-150 vs 1500. Somebody posted a link for ratio info once. I'm kinda
> leery of the F-250 'cause of the miles. Somebody once told me they last
> forever. I know the suspension would be better, but she puts probably
> 35k a year on a vehicle so it wouldn't be long till it was up to where
> the F-150 gave up (230,000). Which truck would you get?

I'd still take a Ford with 125K on it over a NEW C***y any day.
( why do you think we spell C***y that way ? )

SPECTRE


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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:44:33 EST
From: Lingus0169 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford

i agree, buying,driving a c***y is a discrace to everyone here that owns a
ford. No matter what, i'd take my ford over anything.
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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 20:51:34 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - bad coil?

I do not think it is the coil because the truck runs. Sounds like way too
much fuel to me. Is it carb or EFI in '85?

At 09:42 04/01/00 -0600, you wrote:
>mornin guys,
>i think my coil is shot, but let me pass this by yall to see if it is
>something else. about 2 weeks ago i noticed that the truck was loseing
>mid to high rpm power. i had no power higher than 20 mph in first gear
>with the truck floored. then the truck started smoking at WOT. last
>night i had to change out spark plugs that i had just installed about a
>week ago. they looked like they were carbon fouled. this morning i
>started the truck up to let it warm up. when i came back outside to go
>to work, the truck had died. i started it back up, and it reved up like
>it normally does, them died. i tried spraying starting fluid and
>starting it, but it did the same thing and died within about 1 second.
>it is getting fuel, fuel filter has 1000 miles on it as do the cap and
>rotor and plug wires. but it looks like the coil is still factory and
>the truck has 159,000 miles on it. any help would be greatly
>appreciated since i am missing work today, well i don't really miss it!


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 19:19:21 -0800
From: "Pinson" speakeasy.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford

Friends don't let Friends Drive C***y's

Britt Pinson
pinson speakeasy.org


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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:26:36 -0800
From: "Kevin Moore" earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford

I would rather have half a ford than two c***y's.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: aol.com>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford


> i agree, buying,driving a c***y is a discrace to everyone here that owns a
> ford. No matter what, i'd take my ford over anything.
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:26:42 EST
From: BanksRVA aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford

Why not put another engine in the truck you already have? If the rest of the
truck is in good shape then it is probably a safer bet to stick with it
instead of buying a truck you know nothing about.
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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:24:34 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki little-mountain.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford

>----- Original Message -----
>From: "a b" uab.campuscwix.net>
>To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 5:52 PM
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
>
>
>> My wife's F-150 didn't make the millennial change-over I think due to a
>> rod not being Y2k compatible. Anyhow, she has found a '96 C***y 1500
>> with 350 5speed and 3:42 rear, as well as '94 125k mile F-250 diesel.
>> I'm trying to figure out if the C***y will pull her horse/trailer at
>> 2500lbs and can't remember what the rear ratio was in the F-150 (3:73
>> maybe), and/or trying to find out what the final ratios are for the
>> F-150 vs 1500. Somebody posted a link for ratio info once. I'm kinda
>> leery of the F-250 'cause of the miles. Somebody once told me they last
>> forever. I know the suspension would be better, but she puts probably
>> 35k a year on a vehicle so it wouldn't be long till it was up to where
>> the F-150 gave up (230,000). Which truck would you get?

If it was a 76 instead of a 96, I would say try it. But those independent
front suspensions are pretty weak - even worse than our Fords.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:35:16 EST
From: Lingus0169 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford

thats right..that is what i am doing, good truck, bad engine..put a bigger
engine in it. my friends offered me a c***y and a d***e, said screw you, im
staying with my ford
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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:43:23 EST
From: Lingus0169 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford

i would rather take an old ford than a brand new c***y.it is all about
principles..if you even think about a c***y..your not a big fan of fords
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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 22:46:24 -0500
From: flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust manifolds

With all the talk about exhaust manifolds lately, I thought I'd pass
this on...

Someone on ebay currently has a set with less then 500 mioles on them
for a 92-96 5.0. Currently going for 19.99. He also has a set of
ypipes with the cat on it. I think that's at $50. Search on ebay under
F150.
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Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 20:54:38 PST
From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Tranny

Greetings,
My '93 F150 SC has a E40D that is slipping, my question is, is there
anything such as an aditive that would prolong the life for a few more
months, I know the end result will be a new tranny but I just can't afford
it right now and my '67 F100 isn't road worthy yet.


TIA,


Christopher Worley
Waxahachie, TX
'93 F150 SC 351
'67 F100 LWB 352
______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 20:55:30 PST
From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford

AMEN!!!!!!!


>From: "Kevin Moore" earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
>Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:26:36 -0800
>
>I would rather have half a ford than two c***y's.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: aol.com>
>To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 6:44 PM
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - C***y vs Ford
>
>
> > i agree, buying,driving a c***y is a discrace to everyone here that owns
>a
> > ford. No matter what, i'd take my ford over anything.
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 00:39:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Keith Lawyer ....


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