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From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V4 #2
Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Sender: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
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80-96-list-digest Tuesday, January 4 2000 Volume 04 : Number 002



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - engine swap
FTE 80-96 - 4.6 DOHC
Re: FTE 80-96 - 96 F250 slave cylinder
FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing Update
FTE 80-96 - Water Pump Woes!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Sometimes Hard To Start
Re: FTE 80-96 - engine swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-Water Injection
Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausted Manifolds
Re: FTE 80-96 - 351M/9" rear
Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausted Manifolds
Re: FTE 80-96 - 351M/9" rear
FTE 80-96 - RE: Exhausted Manifolds
Re: FTE 80-96 - Water Pump Woes!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Water Pump Woes!
FTE 80-96 - re: Instrument cluster

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 08:17:24 -0500
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - engine swap

I swapped a 351W for a 300 I6 in my '82 F150, so I've gone through quite a bit of what you're looking at. The '82 did not have a computer unless you call the ignition module a computer (which I guess it is). The ignition module does not have any of the feedbacks from the EGR, O2, or anything else, it just controls the coil and distributor.

I put a 600 cfm Edelbrock on top of my 351W and it works great. I had problems building the throttle linkage, kickdown linkage, and I lost the cruise control. Also, you will need a larger radiator and you may need to figure out how to get the fan closer to the radiator.

Anyway, good luck, and don't hesitate to ask questions. I may not have the answer, but I sure went through the pain. I really enjoy the engine and my "new" truck.

Slik

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Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:02:36 -0600
From: BAH NWC.EDU
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 4.6 DOHC

>Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:31:56 -0500
>From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 4.6L

>The Continental is the only Lincoln with DOHC, and is
>different from the Cobra DOHC.


The Mark VIII also has a DOHC 4.6 and Lincoln made a
running change (mid-model year, either '98 or '99) to
a DOHC 5.4 in the Navigator.

Bruce Hanson
Apple Valley, MN


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Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 11:51:35 -0600
From: "Dennis Thompson" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 96 F250 slave cylinder

Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 96 F250 slave cylinder

You're the first to reply!
I haven't even crawled under his truck to look yet, but think it's in the
bell housing from what he's said.
I seem to remember this thread from a while back, just thought I'd check
with the group tho' .
Also don't think I can make it to the land of OZ, but if I ever do, we'll
look you up!

SPECTRE


> Hi Dennis,
> I have been waiting to see what the answer was, and there isn't any!!
or
> did you get private e-mail solutions to your question.
> For what it's worth, a quick answer would be: if the s/cylinder is
external,
> then maybe DIY- if internal to the bell housing then maybe a shop job. Of
> course you wouldn't pull the bell housing without doing a clutch job at
the
> same time, would you?.
> You can come on right over and we'll fix it for you, and chuck a Prawn or
> three (sorry, Shrimp) on the B-B-Q at the same time ;-))
> regards
> Les
> Lost in the Land of OZ
>
> Dennis Thompson wrote:
>
> > My neighbor has a 96 F250, manual transmission with a leaking slave
> > cylinder.
> > Is this a tough do-it-yourself job, or should he take it to the shop?
> > Anyone out there do this?
> > Thanx,
> > SPECTRE
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 15:27:36 -0400
From: "Bowman, John A" mtt.ca>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing Update

Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 10:23:30 -0600
From: "DannyF" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing

Date sent: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 06:10:18 -0500 (EST)
From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
> > I live in eastern Canada and we have a lot of cold and damp winter
weather.
> > This is the season I dread as it makes cold start up and driving a
pain....
> > let me explain.
> >
> > I have an '83 F100 with a 302, 2 BBL, automatic that is completely
stock.
> > The choke works well under all conditions except one... when it is cold
(32F
> > to about 40F) and damp. When starting the truck for the first time in
the
> > morning it starts fine. However when I drive away and come to a stop at
an
> > intersection the truck usually stalls and is difficult to keep idling
for
> > the first 5 minutes of operation. After that, the idle speed picks up to
a
> > normal level and for the rest of the day works OK.
> >
> > The choke operation is fine and the wires and cap are OK. If the
temperature
> > is above 40F and raining, no problem so I don't think it is an
electrical
> > problem. I am told that is a problem that is called carburetor icing the
> > happens on a cold engine under certain environmental conditions.
> >
> > My question... what can I do to eliminate or minimize the problem?
> >
> > Cheers,
> > John Bowman
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
> Hey John Your carb is most likly icing. It does not have
> to be below 32 F for the carb to ice. We all know that a
> pressure drop results in cooler temps right? well how
> much cooler do yo think it is inside the carb where the
> pressure is 15-178 inches BELOW atmosphere? Cold
> enough to form ice crystals when it is damp! if you still
> have the stock air cleaner installed, The little flapper door
> in the snorkel portion is designed to shut off out side air
> and draw from the flex hose up from the ex manifold
> introcucing warmer air to give the under hood temp
> enough time to come up. There is a small sensor
> mounted inside your air cleaner that allows or disallows
> vacuum to the door motor. in this era I believe they called
> this a thermactor air system. If all the parts are there
> check out theoperation of each piece, suck on the
> controler for the door does it move? if so and all the
> hoses are installed properly replace the sensor/switch.
> Good luck!
> Jim Flinchbaugh 87 F150 4x4 EFI5.0

Your climate makes your truck very dependent on 3 systems to
work properly on startup and pre-warmup operation: choke(seems
your covered here), intake air preheat(very important and Jim's
covered that) and int. manifold "crossover" heat. This heats up the
int. manifold during cold operation by diverting hot exh. gas thru a
passage in the int. manifold. It will assist in warming the carb also
by conduction.

See that little canister on the exh. manifold/header pipe w/a vac
line? Thats controlling exh. flow to the intake man. If you have a
bad vac. switch, stuck valve or bad diaphram, it won't work
correctly.
Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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I really appreciate all the help so here is an update.

OK... Here is what I found. The choke seems to be working OK.

The "flapper" on the end of the air cleaner closes while cold and draws warm
air from the plenum around the exhaust manifold. However it remains closed
when the truck warms up! What gives? If I trace the vacuum line from it goes
to a module in the side of the air cleaner. I removed the vacuum line from
the module and the "flapper" snapped open so the "flapper" seems to be
working OK. The module on the air cleaner seems to be the problem but that
is not an issue when cold.

Now I see the valve that is on the end of the exhaust manifold. When the
engine is cold that valve should be closed thus preventing exhaust gasses to
pass to the tail pipe. Now you say that these gasses are routed to heat the
intake manifold but how do they get there and once through the intake
manifold, where are the gasses routed? I have yet to test this valve but
will watch it on the next cold start up.

Anything else I should be checking?

*************************
J.A. Bowman
'83 F100, Big Red
*************************

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 15:35:56 -0400
From: "Bowman, John A" mtt.ca>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Water Pump Woes!

I think I have a water pump problem. I have an '83 F100 with a 302 and on
really cold days (or nites) when the engine is cold, I get a puddle of
coolant on the drive way just under the pulleys on the front of the engine.
The coolant weeps until engine warms up and then seems to stop. There is a
chattering noise from the area of the front of the engine... water pump?

Any thoughts?

*************************
J.A. Bowman, P.Eng.
Project Manager
Aliant
5788 North St.
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Canada, B3K 1N7
ph: (902) 486-3848
cell: (902) 471-3165
email: jbowman mtt.ca
*************************

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 12:05:26 PST
From: "ken haley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Sometimes Hard To Start

Justin,

Did you clean both ends of the wires and cables? Next time it won't start
clamp a jumper cable to one of the big terminals on the selenoid at tape the
other end of the cable to the other big terminal on the selenoid--it could
be a cruddy selenoid. Make sure it is out of gear first. Also, it is
possible the starter brushes are cruddy--a good soaking with WD-40 might
cure that.

Ken

>Folks,
>
>Got in the truck yesterday, everything started fine. Stopped to get donuts
>about a block away and when I got back in the truck wouldn't start. I had
>to
>get the clerk to give me a jump (always have cables). It started right up
>on the
>first try while connected to the jumper cables...OK the battery is finally
>shot I thought.
>
>Went to work (had a presentation or would have gone to get battery then)
>and
>sure
>enough had to be jumped again after work (expected that).
>
>This morning, hoped in and it started right up. Soooo, I took the battery
>to
>Monkey
>Wards and had them test it...OK under the regular test and the load test
>(gotta
>love Motorcraft). Cleaned cables, connectors, posts, top of battery (looks
>good!).
>Corrosion wasn't that bad, I try to keep an eye on it, but there was some
>build up.
>Put battery back in, truck started right up. Went out an hour ago to go to
>the store,
>and what do you know...click, click, click and finally it started. I none
>the less took
>the wife's car.
>
>What's going on...The truck is a '95 F-150, 300 I6, 5spd., will have owned
>5
>years
>in May..so the battery (OEM) is at least 5 years old and has probably been
>on-line that long
>as well.
>
>Is it the battery? Starter?
>
>I have never had a problem with my truck and I don't want to get stuck
>because of a damn
>maintenance item.
>
>Any help greatly appreciated.
>
>Justen Noakes
>San Antonio
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 15:01:44 EST
From: Lingus0169 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - engine swap

thankx everyone for the help...i appreciate it, and it was greatly needed.
especially the flywheel situation, i would have never thought of that. U can
be sure that i will have more questions along the way. ill keep you posted.
nick
mohrsville,pa
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 12:00:34 PST
From: "ken haley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-Water Injection

>It has been 25 years sense I have messed with a Neptune, but just thinking
>about them brings back a 1000 sea stories and a few fairy tails.
>Hang in there!
>Dick
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

..fairy t-a-i-l-s??????? Hmmm??????

Ken
______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 12:40:47 PST
From: "ken haley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausted Manifolds

Les,

I have no idea why manifolds crack as they do. Temperature extremes (hot
manifold + cold water, excessive heat, etc.) or maybe machining tolerances
may be excessive, or maybe...

Anyway, headers are not without problems, either, but I've found headers
much easier to afford ($$$), find (except 302 with clutch), and
install/change out (oh, my aching back) than manifolds.

Headers, properly selected and engine tuned to match, clearly have
performance advantages. As much as I drive, fuel economy alone makes headers
financially attractive, even if I have to swipe some of a Mustang GT every
couple years when the rust out (which none have yet).

Ken

>Hi Blake,
>
>I don't really know and besides, things are a little different down under.
>If you
>accept the theory that Mr. Johnson put forward, as to why cast manifolds
>crack in
>the first place, then the logical extension is, we should expect more
>problems. I
>don't really know the temperature the exhaust manifolds run at in the
>'70's, but I
>sure as hell know, in the late 90's it's hotter. Phred may be able to get
>this info
>from his 'toy room' or Ken may be able to 'cast' some light on this.
>Anyway, as this is a discussion group, and there are ?? subscribers to this
>list.
>Does anyone have a better theory to discuss? ;-)
>
>BTW: Does anyone know what the approx. floating population of subscribers
>to this
>particular list is ? I am on one other list and each time you post, you are
>told
>how many people will receive the post. I'm not complaining, just
>curious.......
>
>Well, I have posted at least 3 mails and not used the word 'Propane' - your
>luck
>just ran out.;-))
>Propane 351 V8 engines idle at about 550 rpm - considerably less than the
>petrol
>equivalent, which has to help reduce manifold temps.
>
>Blake, I noted you post on the Fire Engines with Dual Mags and that
>reminded me of
>a Citroen of the late 40's era. It had dual ignition system, both Mag &
>Dizzy
>selectable from the drivers seat, - I think .... it was a bloody long time
>ago!!,
>for both of us.....and I was about 12 at the time I saw it ....and NO I
>wasn't 12
>in the late 40's either!!
>
>regards
>
>Les
>Lost in the Land of OZ
>
>Blake Malkamaki wrote:
>
> > In regard to manifolds... are the cast iron manifolds on the 80s style
>302s
> > different from the 70s? I never had a bit of problems with the 302
>manifold
> > in my 78 F-150 or my Bronco.
> >
> > Blake
> > Little Mountain
> > Concord, Ohio
> > Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
> > "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
> > "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 13:10:15 PST
From: "ken haley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 351M/9" rear

> Anyway, a swap to consider would be the Ford
>Sterling rear, aka 10.25. This already has an
>identical ABS plug, and is second in strenth to
>perhaps only the GM 14 bolt. However, just how you're
>gonna get 8 lugs on your front TTB is whole 'nother
>adventure. . . if you figure out how to do this LMK.
>
>Keith L.
>Full flame suit and body armor on. . .

Hey, swapping in a 10.25 is a good idea. Perhaps the 5-bolt pattern can be
drilled into the replacement axle's flanges???

Ken

______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 13:27:58 PST
From: "ken haley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausted Manifolds

... By the late 70s, Ford
>built the best trucks they have ever made- before or since. ...
>
>Blake

Blake,

I agree, but I'd love to have a 79 F150, 4X4, 3.70 gears, 31x10.f0-15, with
a modern, FI 300 or 302 and overdrive 5 speed (no Mazda). If the difference
between my 93 Mustang and 74 Pinto (both 2.3s) is an indicator, the later
300 or 302 in the 79 chassis would be heaven. Should deliver 20+ mpg when
used as a car and laugh at any load the truck could safely carry or tow.

Ken

______________________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 15:09:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Keith Lawyer yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 351M/9" rear

> Hey, swapping in a 10.25 is a good idea. Perhaps the
> 5-bolt pattern can be
> drilled into the replacement axle's flanges???

Well, it certainly cannot be done on the full floater.
On the semi-floater 10.25 (which is rare BTW), you can
re-drill it to 5 on 5 1/2. And, even though it's a
semi-floater, it should be beefy enough for most
applications, short of stroked 460s or serious bogging
:-)
However, the biggest problem is that the only
traction devices currently avail for the semi-float
are the factory Crap-Lok or the Lockrite. Neither of
these are terribly appealing IMHO. Or you could just
go w/a Lincoln Locker if your rig doesn't see a lot of
pavement.

Keith L.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://messenger.yahoo.com
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Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:10:18 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier" gte.net>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Exhausted Manifolds

I broke down today and went to a recommended freind of a freind about my
exhaust.
I called a local Napa, and they said "we can get you headers, but not
manifolds"
F of F says "Mustang shorties (SS), front cat punched out, new high perf
rear cat, 21/2" to a GOOD muffler, and out behind the wheel". (Single, as I
have no need for duals) about 575.00
Quote a bit more than I hoped, but not bad... just gotta find time to do
it!

Oh and he says, never seen a 5.0 or 5.8, without at least ONE cracked
manifold.

Happy 2000 y'all, looks like all the bad stuff that was supposed to happen
is gonna wait a day or two!

Dave H.
Houston
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 15:55:10 -0800
From: Mark Ponsford uvic.ca>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Water Pump Woes!

>I think I have a water pump problem. I have an '83 F100 with a 302 and on
>really cold days (or nites) when the engine is cold, I get a puddle of
>coolant on the drive way just under the pulleys on the front of the engine.
>The coolant weeps until engine warms up and then seems to stop. There is a
>chattering noise from the area of the front of the engine... water pump?
>
>Any thoughts?

Try the old siphon hose trick. Stick one end of the hose in your ear and
probe around the running engine with the other end until you find the
noise. (insert usual warning regarding fan blades and fan belts here).

mark


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Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 20:02:17 EST
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Water Pump Woes!

I think you do too. Probably the bearing which will weep fluid and make the
aforementioned noise. Eventually all will go to H - - - and everything will
kind of freewheel around in the fan shroud 'til it catches hold of something, ....


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