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From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #372
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80-96-list-digest Sunday, January 2 2000 Volume 03 : Number 372



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - 6.9 Diesel
FTE 80-96 - defroster stallout.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing
FTE 80-96 - Excessive Oil Loss thru breather tube
Re: FTE 80-96 - Excessive Oil Loss thru breather tube
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 08:57:59 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki little-mountain.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 6.9 Diesel

>Hi Guys!! I been working my new 87 6.9. Been having some problems like
>when I drive 65 MPH, it wants to cut out and die on me. If I let off on
>the accelerater, it will take hold and keep running. It acts like it's
>running out of fuel.
>I changed the fuel filter, bled the lines to the injectors. It starts
>right up and runs good standing still, but when I start up the
>road, it gets to 65 and then starts slowing down to about 55 and I nurse
>it back home. Turn it off and it starts right up and runs good in the
>yard. It does have a new low pressure pump. Every one I talk to says
>that it must be sucking air in the primary fuel line. My question is;
>has anyone had a problem with their switch over valve? I am wondering
>if this valve might be stuck half way between the lines and restricting
>the flow enough to cause this problem. Thanks, Tom
>

Probably sucking air through the water separator on the firewall. I think
there may be an o-ring around the pin that you pull to let water out. The
one on our 87 was full of water and crap. Gave me lots of problems until I
took it apart and cleaned it out.

Another suggestion... put a check valve in your fuel line just before it
enters the water separator. This will keep the fuel from leaking back to
the tank while the truck is not running.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 10:08:19 EST
From: Robo917 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - defroster stallout.

just recently my 90 250 4x4 starting doing something really strange. when
the engine is warm (351w) and i turn on the heat its fine,but when i switch
to heat and defrost,or the defroster the engine wants to stall out and
sometimes does ,has anyone had this troubleand what can i do to fix it? thanks
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 10:23:30 -0600
From: "DannyF" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing

Date sent: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 06:10:18 -0500 (EST)
From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
> > I live in eastern Canada and we have a lot of cold and damp winter weather.
> > This is the season I dread as it makes cold start up and driving a pain....
> > let me explain.
> >
> > I have an '83 F100 with a 302, 2 BBL, automatic that is completely stock.
> > The choke works well under all conditions except one... when it is cold (32F
> > to about 40F) and damp. When starting the truck for the first time in the
> > morning it starts fine. However when I drive away and come to a stop at an
> > intersection the truck usually stalls and is difficult to keep idling for
> > the first 5 minutes of operation. After that, the idle speed picks up to a
> > normal level and for the rest of the day works OK.
> >
> > The choke operation is fine and the wires and cap are OK. If the temperature
> > is above 40F and raining, no problem so I don't think it is an electrical
> > problem. I am told that is a problem that is called carburetor icing the
> > happens on a cold engine under certain environmental conditions.
> >
> > My question... what can I do to eliminate or minimize the problem?
> >
> > Cheers,
> > John Bowman
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
> Hey John Your carb is most likly icing. It does not have
> to be below 32 F for the carb to ice. We all know that a
> pressure drop results in cooler temps right? well how
> much cooler do yo think it is inside the carb where the
> pressure is 15-178 inches BELOW atmosphere? Cold
> enough to form ice crystals when it is damp! if you still
> have the stock air cleaner installed, The little flapper door
> in the snorkel portion is designed to shut off out side air
> and draw from the flex hose up from the ex manifold
> introcucing warmer air to give the under hood temp
> enough time to come up. There is a small sensor
> mounted inside your air cleaner that allows or disallows
> vacuum to the door motor. in this era I believe they called
> this a thermactor air system. If all the parts are there
> check out theoperation of each piece, suck on the
> controler for the door does it move? if so and all the
> hoses are installed properly replace the sensor/switch.
> Good luck!
> Jim Flinchbaugh 87 F150 4x4 EFI5.0

Your climate makes your truck very dependent on 3 systems to
work properly on startup and pre-warmup operation: choke(seems
your covered here), intake air preheat(very important and Jim's
covered that) and int. manifold "crossover" heat. This heats up the
int. manifold during cold operation by diverting hot exh. gas thru a
passage in the int. manifold. It will assist in warming the carb also
by conduction.

See that little canister on the exh. manifold/header pipe w/a vac
line? Thats controlling exh. flow to the intake man. If you have a
bad vac. switch, stuck valve or bad diaphram, it won't work
correctly.
Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 13:25:29 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Excessive Oil Loss thru breather tube

Ford Members.

My truck is a1991 F-250 with a fuel-injected 460. On the left valve cover
there is the oil filler cap and coming off of it is a tube running to the air
filter box. Inside the box there is your normal air filter on top and below
where the breather tube enters coming from oil filler cap there is a small
paper element filter about 1inch tall by 4 inches long connected to the tube.
It is soaked completely with oil. There is so much oil going thru this line
that it runs out thru the hole in the air box, on to the frame of the truck,
and on to the ground. This was never like this before. Its even putting oil
into my air filter. I changed them both and about three days later i was
back to square one. What would cause that kind of pressure to make oil come
out of the valve cover like that? I've never seen this much oil loss in a
situation like this.

Thanks
Paul
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 10:57:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Keith Lawyer yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Excessive Oil Loss thru breather tube

That's your PCV filter. Check your PCV valve first.

Keith L.

- --- WoodStck45 aol.com wrote:
> Ford Members.
>
> My truck is a1991 F-250 with a fuel-injected 460.
> On the left valve cover
> there is the oil filler cap and coming off of it is
> a tube running to the air
> filter box. Inside the box there is your normal air
> filter on top and below
> where the breather tube enters coming from oil
> filler cap there is a small
> paper element filter about 1inch tall by 4 inches
> long connected to the tube.
> It is soaked completely with oil. There is so much
> oil going thru this line
> that it runs out thru the hole in the air box, on
> to the frame of the truck,
> and on to the ground. This was never like this
> before. Its even putting oil
> into my air filter. I changed them both and about
> three days later i was
> back to square one. What would cause that kind of
> pressure to make oil come
> out of the valve cover like that? I've never seen
> this much oil loss in a
> situation like this.
>
> Thanks
> Paul
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 14:42:36 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust

Hi Shawn,
I too, do appreciate Jim's comments. I've had a feeling that we have been
running around the question without really getting to the heart of the problem.

By the performance figures you are quoting and the observations of the quality
of the exhaust manifolds compared with your N*issan, haven't you answered your
own question? If you intend to keep the F150 for some time, wouldn't it be
better value to put the $70x2 towards the header system? Help liberate some of
the performance of that 'lazy' 302. You still have a bit to go to get that nice
round 1 hp per 1 ci. ;-)) You have now have a good recommendation for headers.
I would assume Jim's recommendation is suitable for a stock system. They don't
sound like they are 1 7/8" equal length primaries thru to 3 1/2" collectors,
which by the way look real GOOD, but I would imagine, rather difficult to hide
from the E.P.A, and be a bit of overkill in you situation. Apart from a 'Bit o
Brass' (money), you have nothing to loose. ;-))
Just performance, and if you don't peddle too hard, even some fuel economy, to
gain.

It's your call, what's you gunna do ??

Your theory: CHEAP DESIGN BY FORD, is probably why a little engine work
realizes such big performance gains, pro rata!! I'll let you theory on the
valve timing go thru to the 'Keeper'.

Geez, I would happily send my cast stock manifolds (pity their Clevo's) over
to you for a few dollars, unless sombody else needs them, cause I know when I
change over they will be relegated to the
Spare-part-boxes-that-I-may-need-one-day. Ever known a (ex)mechanic(?) to
throw ANYTHING away?

regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ


Shawn & Jennifer Clark wrote:

> Thanks for the info. This is the reason I subscribe to these lists--voices
> of experience! I know that my 302 had been used by the previous owner to
> tow his tractor a few miles on a trailer at times (not a big tractor I
> think, but even a small one is heavy.) It does not surprise me that the
> manifolds get pretty hot towing. The 302's make a lot of torque, but not
> much power compared to my Nissan's inline 4 (my slightly modified Nissan
> 2.4L runs 178, hp, 185 ft-lb torque--same bore and stroke as the 302, but a
> lot more output per cubic inch--Ford runs 185 hp and 270 ft-lb torque.) My
> understanding is that not allowing the free flow of gases through the
> exhaust will produce more low end torque (towing?) but this also requires
> hotter, compressed exhaust gas which one would expect to work the exhaust
> manifold harder. I've had the Nissan header off before, it is solid and
> reasonably free flowing for a stock system. The Ford manifold looks frail
> and constricted by comparison (and is broken in two). I'll call NAPA, if I
> can get a new manifold for 70 bucks, it'll be on lickity split. Of course,
> this problem may also be more a function of valve timing than the header
> geometry. The point at which the exhaust valves open is an important
> factor. (Engine builders step in anywhere that I misspeak.) This will.
> have some impact on the tendency to ping or knock. Also, the hot cat
> without shielding fried the passenger side radius arm bushing on my truck
> (theory: CHEAP DESIGN BY FORD that saved $2 per truck), split down the
> center, noticed a pull during braking.
>
>
> 1991 "The Project" F-150
> Shawn Clark
> e-mail: sd&jkclark ....


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