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From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #371
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80-96-list-digest Saturday, January 1 2000 Volume 03 : Number 371



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Jasper Engines
FTE 80-96 - Stiff Posi Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Stiff Posi Problems
FTE 80-96 - Happy New Year
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust
FTE 80-96 - 6.9 Diesel
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust
FTE 80-96 - 96 F250 slave cylinder
FTE 80-96 - Happy new years
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust

=======================================================================

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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 10:22:19 EST
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Jasper Engines

I have a Jasper 302 Class 1 which was installed around T-giving '99. Not many
miles on it yet, but since replacing the TPS (throttle position sensor) it
really runs good. We haven't hooked up to the 5th wheel RV yet, but it sure
feels like it will be a nice improvement in towing capacity. As far as the
warranty is concerned, I discussed this with both Jasper and my mechanic that
did my work and those engines that have had to be replaced under warranty
were completely covered. The one thing my mechanic did run into, is whether
he gets completely paid for his labor to replace. They worked that out
between themselves, but it didn't interfere with actual engine warranty. He
(mechanic) told me that 10 years ago he wouldn't have touched a Jasper, but
they really have improved over the years. I went with them because of the new
nalve train components and a lot of other new parts they replace where other
rebuilders do not. I checked with 5-6 remanufacturers before spending my
money, and some of those people told me that they can't produce a rebuilt to
compare with the Jasper, as far as new parts are concerned. The Class 1 comes
with a CraneCams 2021 CompuCam in it. This setup runs well without any
changes to stock setup. If your existing engine has a TPS, I strongly advise
replacing it at time of install. If you feel comfortable with what you have,
OK too. We had a problem with ours and until codes were read, we couldn't
analyze the deal. Since the TPS change, excellent!!!

Bill in KY
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 10:44:46 EST
From: LGRanch aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Stiff Posi Problems

I have a 1990 big Bronco with an 8.8 rear end. The posi is a Ford Trak Loc.
It has gotten cold here in the frozen north. In the mornings going to work I
have thought that the rear brakes were dragging. So with time off from work
during the holidays I took the rear brakes apart. Everything was just fine
with no interference. In the morning the truck will not even roll down the
driveway. I have noticed that the there is alot of resistance to the axles
turning from the cold differential lube. When the truck has run for 20
minutes or so the truck will roll fine.

Has anyone else seen this problem????? or is this only my truck. Yes the lube
is only about 6 months old and has the slip modifer added.
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 14:29:29 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki little-mountain.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Stiff Posi Problems

>I have a 1990 big Bronco with an 8.8 rear end. The posi is a Ford Trak Loc.
>It has gotten cold here in the frozen north. In the mornings going to work I
>have thought that the rear brakes were dragging. So with time off from work
>during the holidays I took the rear brakes apart. Everything was just fine
>with no interference. In the morning the truck will not even roll down the
>driveway. I have noticed that the there is alot of resistance to the axles
>turning from the cold differential lube. When the truck has run for 20
>minutes or so the truck will roll fine.
>
>Has anyone else seen this problem????? or is this only my truck. Yes the lube
>is only about 6 months old and has the slip modifer added.

Sounds like the oil is heavy from being cold. This is normal. Losening up
when warm is normal too. I just hope if you have to push your truck by hand
that you make sure you warm it up first! :-)


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2000 06:53:23 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Happy New Year

Hi All,
Happy New Year to all on the list. Well it's officially 2000 here and
all seems to be normal, whatever normal is!

...and I'm still having Fun in a Ford.....

regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ



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Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2000 06:59:06 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust

Hi Jim,
Thanks for the info, I will assume you are referring to the Windsor 302/351
family of engines, I have had a gut feeling your theory is close to the
mark, and down here in OZ, It's something to look forward to..... Do the $70
OEM parts last any better ? What is your recommendation to your customers ?
What have you got in Your truck?

I am running a 351 clevo, pre cat, in OZ, and in the course of cleaning and
detailing (??) the engine and chassis, I oversprayed the Exhaust Manifolds
with white enamel spray paint. I didn't worry 'cause I thought it would
just burn off and disappear, that was 6 months ago.
Conclusion: 1) It's really good quality paint (??) or 2) I just don't drive
this truck hard enough. ;-))

regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

Jim wrote:

> heres my 3 cents(inflation)
> as an engine rebuilder ,just about every 5.0/5.8 we see
> in the shop has one if not both manifolds cracked or
> broken. Our theory is excess heat from the cat.
> converter. These rigs are notorious for this and almost
> always used for some kind of towing. if you have access
> to one, hit the manifold with a infared heat gun just after
> pulling a hill. You won't belive what you see. Ive seen
> these things glow red after pulling a hill with a trailer on.
> for replacements try your napa store, ours here in town
> stocks brand new aftermarket ones for about 70 bucks!
> another source is A&A Midwest in Las Vegas (also
> known as Enginequest) Keep on truckin' ,Jim
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 20:21:09 -0600
From: Tom Wiggins earthlink.net>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 6.9 Diesel

Hi Guys!! I been working my new 87 6.9. Been having some problems like
when I drive 65 MPH, it wants to cut out and die on me. If I let off on
the accelerater, it will take hold and keep running. It acts like it's
running out of fuel.
I changed the fuel filter, bled the lines to the injectors. It starts
right up and runs good standing still, but when I start up the
road, it gets to 65 and then starts slowing down to about 55 and I nurse
it back home. Turn it off and it starts right up and runs good in the
yard. It does have a new low pressure pump. Every one I talk to says
that it must be sucking air in the primary fuel line. My question is;
has anyone had a problem with their switch over valve? I am wondering
if this valve might be stuck half way between the lines and restricting
the flow enough to cause this problem. Thanks, Tom

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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 19:54:40 -0700
From: "Jim" onyx.digisys.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust

Hey Les,

Jim here, I'm running a 302 (fuel infected) in my outfit,
new as of 3 weeks ago (actually, rebuilt, by me) Souped
up the cam slightly and oversized the exhaust valves with
manley swirlpolished 1.5" Stainless steel valves. and
opted for hard seat inserts as well, I use this rig for
towing all the time either campers or stock cars or
anything else you can imagine,so figgered i'd do
everything I can to make the seats last longer. Bothe my
manifolds where broke clean in half, so since we are set
up to weld cast iron I welded them back together. works
like a charm. The ultimate fix for these things is a set of
replacement headers ( I think the ones we like are from
Dynomax) they are a shorty header designed to be a bolt
in replacement, fits heads and stock pipes with no mods,
slick install, but for 325 bucks it should be. Major
improvement in flow!! anyway I couldnt afford it so, weld
weld weld and here we go again. future plans for me is to
gut the converter and remount the O2 sensor to the
manifold since I can do this myself and then it appears
that the converter is still intact, seein how the E(ternal)
P(ain) in the A(ss) can fine individuals now. as a
proffessional rebuilder all we can reccomend to our
customers is legal stuff so get out your wallet .Well good
luck and happy new yar to ya
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 22:09:04 -0600
From: "Dennis Thompson" bellsouth.net>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 96 F250 slave cylinder

My neighbor has a 96 F250, manual transmission with a leaking slave
cylinder.
Is this a tough do-it-yourself job, or should he take it to the shop?
Anyone out there do this?
Thanx,
SPECTRE

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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 20:42:21 PST
From: "Scottie Schmidt" hotmail.com>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Happy new years

Happy New Years. Have fun. Hope for a safe holiday.
Thanks,
Scottie Schmidt JR.


______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 03:07:51 -0600
From: "Shawn & Jennifer Clark" tyler.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust

"Jim" onyx.digisys.net> wrote:
>>heres my 3 cents(inflation)
as an engine rebuilder ,just about every 5.0/5.8 we see
in the shop has one if not both manifolds cracked or
broken. Our theory is excess heat from the cat.
converter. These rigs are notorious for this and almost
always used for some kind of towing. if you have access
to one, hit the manifold with a infared heat gun just after
pulling a hill. You won't belive what you see. Ive seen
these things glow red after pulling a hill with a trailer on.
for replacements try your napa store, ours here in town
stocks brand new aftermarket ones for about 70 bucks!
another source is A&A Midwest in Las Vegas (also
known as Enginequest) Keep on truckin' ,Jim
>>

Thanks for the info. This is the reason I subscribe to these lists--voices
of experience! I know that my 302 had been used by the previous owner to
tow his tractor a few miles on a trailer at times (not a big tractor I
think, but even a small one is heavy.) It does not surprise me that the
manifolds get pretty hot towing. The 302's make a lot of torque, but not
much power compared to my Nissan's inline 4 (my slightly modified Nissan
2.4L runs 178, hp, 185 ft-lb torque--same bore and stroke as the 302, but a
lot more output per cubic inch--Ford runs 185 hp and 270 ft-lb torque.) My
understanding is that not allowing the free flow of gases through the
exhaust will produce more low end torque (towing?) but this also requires
hotter, compressed exhaust gas which one would expect to work the exhaust
manifold harder. I've had the Nissan header off before, it is solid and
reasonably free flowing for a stock system. The Ford manifold looks frail
and constricted by comparison (and is broken in two). I'll call NAPA, if I
can get a new manifold for 70 bucks, it'll be on lickity split. Of course,
this problem may also be more a function of valve timing than the header
geometry. The point at which the exhaust valves open is an important
factor. (Engine builders step in anywhere that I misspeak.) This will.
have some impact on the tendency to ping or knock. Also, the hot cat
without shielding fried the passenger side radius arm bushing on my truck
(theory: CHEAP DESIGN BY FORD that saved $2 per truck), split down the
center, noticed a pull during braking.

Still loving those NGK plugs. No more cold start stalls, it gives smoother
shifts, more power all around. My guess is that cold start stalls are
typically ignition related (poor average firing). Improving your ignition
performance might do the trick (NGK's, wires, splitfires, whatever works
for *you*.) It's got me thinking about investing in...REAL PAINT!!!!!!!!!
Not the cheap Ford water soluble stuff that is now allowing the truck to
rust.


1991 "The Project" F-150
Shawn Clark
e-mail: sd&jkclark ....


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