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From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #370
Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Sender: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Errors-To: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Precedence: bulk


80-96-list-digest Friday, December 31 1999 Volume 03 : Number 370



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
majordomo ford-trucks.com
with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list-digest" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust
FTE 80-96 - 4.6L
Re: FTE 80-96 - 4.6L
Re: FTE 80-96 - valve cover gasket job
Re: FTE 80-96 - 6.9 diesel mileage
Re: FTE 80-96 - Caliper clunk
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushings
Re: FTE 80-96 - tranny slips when cold
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust
Re: FTE 80-96 - What is the real mileage
FTE 80-96 - No oil pressure fixed
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust
FTE 80-96 - RE: 6.9 Diesel Mileage
FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing
FTE 80-96 - Jasper Engines
FTE 80-96 - new engine
Re: FTE 80-96 - Jasper Engines
Re: FTE 80-96 - new engine
Re: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing
FTE 80-96 - Answer to Rattling Calipers
Re: FTE 80-96 - valve cover gasket job
Re: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust
Re: FTE 80-96 - 4.6L
Re: FTE 80-96 - Answer to Rattling Calipers
Re: FTE 80-96 - Caliper clunk
Re: FTE 80-96 - Thanks to Jim Cannon
Re: FTE 80-96 - '88 stuff

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 08:27:55 -0500
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust

All of my bolts were intact and holding. The manifold came off in two
pieces.

Steve

craig n eggerman wrote:
>
> Been watching this thread for a while.
> The problem is the bolts on the front and back of the exhaust manifold.
> Ford did not use a good bolt and it will snap off flush with the engine.
> See TSB 89-18-10 Replace bolts with A-286 stainless steel alloy bolt
> extremely high tensile strength (170,000 psi). Use good replacement bolts
> from any speed shop that builds large block engines (Summit Racing). Some
> of these same bolts are used in aircraft engines. Where's the guy telling
> about the magnetos. When the bolts snap it will change the load on the
> manifold. Exhaust brackets missing or not lined up properly will also
> change the load pattern and can cause cracking. Headers are OK so long as
> they fit with out a great deal of modification and have a thick flange
> area that bolts to the engine. Proper bolt torque is extremely important.
> Yes the temps are 1500 or more on the big block engines.
> Craig
> Eggerman juno.com
> Casper,Wyoming
> O|||||O
>
> ________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 05:54:04 -0800 (PST)
From: rich may yahoo.com>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 4.6L

I was wondering what version of the 4.6 is in the
F-150's. I saw a Lincoln the other day and it had the
DOHC, but I thought that the DOHC was only for the
mustang cobra. Any ideas?

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:31:56 -0500
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 4.6L

F-150 has one of the SOHC variations of the 4.6L.

The Continental is the only Lincoln with DOHC, and is different from the
Cobra DOHC.

rich may wrote:
>
> I was wondering what version of the 4.6 is in the
> F-150's. I saw a Lincoln the other day and it had the
> DOHC, but I thought that the DOHC was only for the
> mustang cobra. Any ideas?
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:53:56 -0500
From: "Mark Salvetti" mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - valve cover gasket job

>You'll need to get a star bit ( I forget the size ) to get at the center
bolt
>for the intake manifold. You access it through a hole in the manifold,
close
>to where the linkage mounts.
>I actually got the screwdriver, broke the handle off and fitted a 3/8"
socket
>on it to turn the bolt.

I just went through this over Thanksgiving. The Torx bit you need for that
center bolt is a T-40. Problem was I didn't have enough space to get the
bit down to the bolt between the runners.

Bob's screwdriver idea is a good one, but I couldn't find one with a hex
shaft for a socket to grip. So I bought a Craftsman T-40 socket. This is a
two-piece unit. I drove the bit out of the socket with a punch, and
carefully placed it onto the center bolt by reaching under the intake
manifold from the left side (I have thin arms). Then I was able to turn it
using a 1/4" drive socket from above.

This is definitely an all-day job.

Good luck!

Mark Salvetti
1986 F150 5L

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 08:06:13 -0700
From: "Mike" email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 6.9 diesel mileage

- -----Original Message-----
From: PSales264 aol.com aol.com>



>Have an 85 F-250 2x4 standard trans. in the summer when fuel isn't being
>mixed for the cold I get almost 18. the winter mixture in upstate NY gives
me
>about 15. it has 133,000 mi. good luck PHIL


My 85 F-250 super cab 4x4 with a Banks turbo will get 18 mpg hiway cruising
at 60. That drops to about 15 1/2 at 68 mph (2500) rpm. Towing 7500 lbs, I
get 11 mpg usually.

mike


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 08:26:38 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Caliper clunk

At 15:56 28/12/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Does anyone know the proper corrective action for Rattling Calipers, My 1994
>F250 4X4 is rattling to the point of driving me nuts, I have replaced the
>Caliper hardware but that only lasted for a couple of days and then It back
>to the same old clatter. I am not opposed to replacing the calipers them
>selves, but I really don't want to have to replace the rest of the axle.
>Any info is appreciated
>Thanks, Britt.

You should double-check the exact position of the little anti-rattle clips
on the inner pads against the way they are shown to be installed in your
book. Others on the list have reported that if these clips are installed at
the wrong end of the pad, everything goes together OK, but the brakes clunk
and rattle. Move it to the other end and all is well. You should not have
to replace the caliper.

On my '80 F-150, the little clip installs on the lower edge of the inner
pad, but I hesitate to advise that yours would be exactly the same. These
little details change over the years and from 150 to 250. Check your book.

If this one change does not fix it, I suggest having a brake shop look at
it because brakes are such a critical safety item. Good luck!

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:07:32 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushings

At 15:15 29/12/99 -0500, Craig wrote:
>Jim,
> Thanks for the advise, I can't believe they are worn either, but they
>are badly and it makes a heck of a racket when I hit a bump. I've had the
>front end checked by two different alignment shops and they both confirm
>this is the only problem but neither wanted to change the bushings. I did
>find a kit for standard replacement of those bushings and I believe I will
>try it. If I can't get it disassembled then I can resort to grinding the
>rivets. I crawled under and looked at lunch time. Thanks for the input.

Craig-
You need to decide, really before you start, which approach you plan to
take: grind off the rivets or drop the half axels. If all you are doing is
replacing the radius arm bushings, I'd say grind off the rivets.

There is also a third approach where you use a chain and a come-along to
stretch the spring forward while you replace the bushing. This works, but
IMHO is a potentially more dangerous approach that I would not recommend.
And it puts a lot of twist on the axel pivot bushing, so if it is old and
weak, you will ruin it and be replacing it next year.

Once you have chosen your path, then "just do it".

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:16:14 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tranny slips when cold

At 22:25 28/12/99 -0600, you wrote:
>i think my C-4 tranny has to be rebuilt, but i thought i would see if
>anyone here might have a fix for this problem. when the truck is cold,
>the tranny slips in and out of gear until i have gone down the road a
>couple of miles. after that it runs fine. i have started letting the
>truck warm up in nuetral and that seems to help some. the tranny is
>full of brand new fluid and it is an 85 F-150 300 I6 with the C4 auto
>tranny. thanx....

If you are SURE that the fluid level is correct, then the only real
long-term fix is to rebuild it. You have an internal leak. When the rubber
seals and pistons and such inside get cold they shrink a bit and get firm.
The fluid leaks around them instead of applying pressure where it is
supposed to be. Lots of slipping of the bands and clutches when pressures
are not up to full spec. due to leaks. This slipping wears the clutch
material away quickly, but also warms up fluid. Eventually warm fluid
softens up rubber and it seals again (and you go).

Some people swear that this TRANS-X stuff helps in these situations, others
tell me that it is bad stuff to be avoided. I don't know. I never used it.

Hey, if you have to rebuild the sucker anyway, it might be worth a shot. If
it softens up and swells the rubber parts a bit, it might stop the internal
leaks and get you through this winter. The warmer weather next summer would
be no problem and you can just PLAN right now to start saving for a rebuilt
unit next fall before it gets cold!

Good luck.


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 08:51:59 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust

At 08:27 30/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
>All of my bolts were intact and holding. The manifold came off in two
>pieces.

Do you know, had the manifold ever been off previously? Was there an
exhaust manifold gasket? (because I'm pretty sure it came without one from
the factory). If it had ever been off, it is possible that it was torqued
incorrectly (wrong pattern, wrong torque values, or threads not cleaned and
lightly lubricated).


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 08:58:31 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What is the real mileage

At 20:43 29/12/99 +0500, you wrote:
>I bought a 1989 F150 with only 10,000 miles on the odometer, what a
>steal :) Since the odometer only has 5 digits, is there any way to
>find out what the real mileage is? Could this info be "hidden" in
>the electronics somehow?

Well, 10,000 miles is so LOW, that you can usually tell by no wear on the
brake pedal cover pad or the emergency brake pad, no wear on the carpet,
the windshield is not scratched where the wipers have been running over it,
the windshield is not "sandblasted", should still have all matching factory
tires, look for oil change stickers on the door or frame with miles and
dates on them (or just the torn remains of a bunch of stickers would
indicate more than 10 K miles). This is all I can think of off the top of
my head.


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 07:40:07 PST
From: "James Poylio" hotmail.com>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - No oil pressure fixed

After replacing the oil pump, the truck ran fine.
For a test drive, I drove to Chicago and back.
No problem.
I don't know the cause of the lack of oil pressure
in the first place. Perhaps a bit of water got in
the pickup tube assembly and froze overnight,
preventing any oil from circulating.

At least I got new engine mounts out of this.

James P.
'90 F150
______________________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 15:01:19 -0500
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust

It had never been off, and had no gasket.

Jim Cannon wrote:
>
> At 08:27 30/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >All of my bolts were intact and holding. The manifold came off in two
> >pieces.
>
> Do you know, had the manifold ever been off previously? Was there an
> exhaust manifold gasket? (because I'm pretty sure it came without one from
> the factory). If it had ever been off, it is possible that it was torqued
> incorrectly (wrong pattern, wrong torque values, or threads not cleaned and
> lightly lubricated).
>
> Jim Cannon
> Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
> '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
> '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 07:51:07 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust

craig n eggerman wrote:

> Been watching this thread for a while.

Thanks for your input. Blake was probably getting sick of just hearing from
me!


>
> The problem is the bolts on the front and back of the exhaust manifold.
> Ford did not use a good bolt and it will snap off flush with the engine.
> See TSB 89-18-10 Replace bolts with A-286 stainless steel alloy bolt

So there is a TSB out on manifold bolts?, can you elaborate? Does it involve
6's ?, V8's ? or B/Blocks only? Obviously they are cracking and/or breaking
but most people are not indicating exactly what engine config. and
circumstances.
B/Blocks are not a problem in OZ assembled 'effies'. Officially they don't
exist. Hmmmm......

> extremely high tensile strength (170,000 psi). Use good replacement bolts
> from any speed shop that builds large block engines (Summit Racing). Some
> of these same bolts are used in aircraft engines. Where's the guy telling
> about the magnetos.

I don't know what happens when you crack a plane manifold, apart from saying
'Ooh Bugger!'
I guess any malfunction at 30,000 ft would GRAB my attention, big time.;-))
Fortunately our trucks mostly (but not always) operate in a 2 dimensional
world.

> When the bolts snap it will change the load on the
> manifold. Exhaust brackets missing or not lined up properly will also
> change the load pattern and can cause cracking. Headers are OK so long as
> they fit with out a great deal of modification and have a thick flange
> area that bolts to the engine. Proper bolt torque is extremely important.
> Yes the temps are 1500 or more on the big block engines.
> Craig
> Eggerman juno.com
> Casper,Wyoming

Craig, thank you, and this is a big problem with extractors, you know what to
look for, and I'm sure a lot of others know what to look for in Extractors,
but unfortunately a lot are still being screwed, and being sold crap.

regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 15:33:26 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier" gte.net>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: 6.9 Diesel Mileage

Man I'm jealous!!! I looked at an 84 250 6.9, ans didn't act fast enough!!
Great engine!!! Mileage I'm not certain about, but I've heard 20 a BUNCH
of times!!!

>Subject: FTE 80-96 - 6.9 diesel mileage

> Hi Guys, I just got a 87 super cab F250, 6.9 diesel. What kind of
> mileage could I be looking at?


Lower it??? Why? Put step rails for entry!!! Those pipe ones look NICE!!!

> This is a two wheel drive and it sits as high as a 4WD. Is there any
> way to lower this without going
> through a lot of trouble? Thanks, Tom


Dave H.
Houston, TX
Fear the EPA/TNRCC they will take freedom away from us!!!
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:11:24 -0400
From: "Bowman, John A" mtt.ca>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing

I live in eastern Canada and we have a lot of cold and damp winter weather.
This is the season I dread as it makes cold start up and driving a pain....
let me explain.

I have an '83 F100 with a 302, 2 BBL, automatic that is completely stock.
The choke works well under all conditions except one... when it is cold (32F
to about 40F) and damp. When starting the truck for the first time in the
morning it starts fine. However when I drive away and come to a stop at an
intersection the truck usually stalls and is difficult to keep idling for
the first 5 minutes of operation. After that, the idle speed picks up to a
normal level and for the rest of the day works OK.

The choke operation is fine and the wires and cap are OK. If the temperature
is above 40F and raining, no problem so I don't think it is an electrical
problem. I am told that is a problem that is called carburetor icing the
happens on a cold engine under certain environmental conditions.

My question... what can I do to eliminate or minimize the problem?

Cheers,
John Bowman

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:19:26 -0500 (EST)
From: DBblueboy webtv.net (Jerome Kelly)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Jasper Engines

I recently checked on the price of a Jasper engine. I was interested in
the 302 for my F150. they have a phase one that is supposed to have a
little more power than
stock. It has a 36mo. 70,000 mile warranty. I realize that warranties
sometimes are legal double talk that is very hard to get the exact
meaning from them. Does anyone have any experiance
with this company. If something happens
to the engine, do they really replace it at
no charge? Or do they prorate the milage
like they do on tires. I do not want to pay
this much for a Jasper if the warranty isn't as good as the claim.



http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/DBblueboy/DayBreakblueboyblue

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 16:44:09 -0600
From: "Joel Thomas" prodigy.net>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - new engine

I am getting a new 351W out of a 86 or 87 truck put in it will be ready
tuesday
what will the break in procedure be for this engine
they will already have started is and ran it for a while, but i have a 11/2
hour drive home can i drive the whole way, or should i stop and let it cool
of some,and for how long,
also when should i change the oil first is it 100 or 1000 miles and for how
long is the break in 1000 miles??

also isn't a 86 351W gonna be the High Output.
and if it is the 87 then that would be a fuel injected engine and what would
it run like carbarated.
the engine that was in the truck was a 351W 2v not the high output. the
truck is a 84 F-150 4x4

thank you.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 14:53:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Keith Lawyer yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Jasper Engines

Ben Hynes on the Bigbroncos list has a Jasper 302. He
had problems of some sort and they did replace it.
This is extremely vague, but that's all I know. I
think his email is Ogbudha aol.com, (off the top of my
head, not certain), and you should definitely contact
him if you need further info.

Keith L.

- --- Jerome Kelly webtv.net> wrote:
> I recently checked on the price of a Jasper engine.
> I was interested in
> the 302 for my F150. they have a phase one that is
> supposed to have a
> little more power than
> stock. It has a 36mo. 70,000 mile warranty. I
> realize that warranties
> sometimes are legal double talk that is very hard to
> get the exact
> meaning from them. Does anyone have any experiance
> with this company. If something happens
> to the engine, do they really replace it at
> no charge? Or do they prorate the milage
> like they do on tires. I do not want to pay
> this much for a Jasper if the warranty isn't as good
> as the claim.
>
>
>
>
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>
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>

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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 14:58:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Keith Lawyer yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - new engine

> also isn't a 86 351W gonna be the High Output.
> and if it is the 87 then that would be a fuel
> injected engine and what would
> it run like carbarated.
> the engine that was in the truck was a 351W 2v not
> the high output. the truck is a 84 F-150 4x4

I believe the 351 did not receive FI until '88.

Keith L.
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:21:03 -0600 (CST)
From: "Mike Persell" home.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing

I live in Dallas and have the identical problem whenever the engine is between
cold/fast idle and operating temp on my 85 302 2bbl. The temperature can be 40 or 60
so I don't think the whole problem is icing. Any help from the list we be greatly
appreciated.

Mike Persell



On Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:11:24 -0400, Bowman, John A wrote:

>I live in eastern Canada and we have a lot of cold and damp winter weather.
>This is the season I dread as it makes cold start up and driving a pain....
>let me explain.
>
>I have an '83 F100 with a 302, 2 BBL, automatic that is completely stock.
>The choke works well under all conditions except one... when it is cold (32F
>to about 40F) and damp. When starting the truck for the first time in the
>morning it starts fine. However when I drive away and come to a stop at an
>intersection the truck usually stalls and is difficult to keep idling for
>the first 5 minutes of operation. After that, the idle speed picks up to a
>normal level and for the rest of the day works OK.
>
>The choke operation is fine and the wires and cap are OK. If the temperature
>is above 40F and raining, no problem so I don't think it is an electrical
>problem. I am told that is a problem that is called carburetor icing the
>happens on a cold engine under certain environmental conditions.
>
>My question... what can I do to eliminate or minimize the problem?
>
>Cheers,
>John Bowman
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:57:06 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Answer to Rattling Calipers

We have a 91 and a 94 F-250 4X4's with the same problem of the calipers
rattling. Does your noise go away if you put your foot on the brake and come
back again if you take your foot of the brake? Ours do. I found that if you
take the brake pins out (the ones that hold the calipers on) and grease them
really good, they will quit rattling. When you grease them, make sure and
use some thick grease that will last awhile and bond to the pins or you'll be
doing it again in 3,000 miles. Good Luck!
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:39:33 -0700
From: "Jim" onyx.digisys.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - valve cover gasket job

From: "Mark Salvetti" mediaone.net>
To: "Ford Trucks 80-96" <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>, dfwairport.com>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - valve cover gasket job
Date sent: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:53:56 -0500
Send reply to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com

> >You'll need to get a star bit ( I forget the size ) to get at the center
> bolt
> >for the intake manifold. You access it through a hole in the manifold,
> close
> >to where the linkage mounts.
> >I actually got the screwdriver, broke the handle off and fitted a 3/8"
> socket
> >on it to turn the bolt.
>
> I just went through this over Thanksgiving. The Torx bit you need for that
> center bolt is a T-40. Problem was I didn't have enough space to get the
> bit down to the bolt between the runners.
>
> Bob's screwdriver idea is a good one, but I couldn't find one with a hex
> shaft for a socket to grip. So I bought a Craftsman T-40 socket. This is a
> two-piece unit. I drove the bit out of the socket with a punch, and
> carefully placed it onto the center bolt by reaching under the intake
> manifold from the left side (I have thin arms). Then I was able to turn it
> using a 1/4" drive socket from above.
>
> This is definitely an all-day job.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Mark Salvetti
> 1986 F150 5L
>
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>

Your local Snap on or Cornwell tool dealers have the
right one for the job about 7 inches long I have one of
each, Does that make me wealthy? Jim
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:39:33 -0700
From: "Jim" onyx.digisys.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing

From: "Bowman, John A" mtt.ca>
To: "Ford Truck List" <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Carb Icing
Date sent: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:11:24 -0400
Send reply to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com

> I live in eastern Canada and we have a lot of cold and damp winter weather.
> This is the season I dread as it makes cold start up and driving a pain....
> let me explain.
>
> I have an '83 F100 with a 302, 2 BBL, automatic that is completely stock.
> The choke works well under all conditions except one... when it is cold (32F
> to about 40F) and damp. When starting the truck for the first time in the
> morning it starts fine. However when I drive away and come to a stop at an
> intersection the truck usually stalls and is difficult to keep idling for
> the first 5 minutes of operation. After that, the idle speed picks up to a
> normal level and for the rest of the day works OK.
>
> The choke operation is fine and the wires and cap are OK. If the temperature
> is above 40F and raining, no problem so I don't think it is an electrical
> problem. I am told that is a problem that is called carburetor icing the
> happens on a cold engine under certain environmental conditions.
>
> My question... what can I do to eliminate or minimize the problem?
>
> Cheers,
> John Bowman
>
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>

Hey John Your carb is most likly icing. It does not have
to be below 32 F for the carb to ice. We all know that a
pressure drop results in cooler temps right? well how
much cooler do yo think it is inside the carb where the
pressure is 15-178 inches BELOW atmosphere? Cold
enough to form ice crystals when it is damp! if you still
have the stock air cleaner installed, The little flapper door
in the snorkel portion is designed to shut off out side air
and draw from the flex hose up from the ex manifold
introcucing warmer air to give the under hood temp
enough time to come up. There is a small sensor
mounted inside your air cleaner that allows or disallows
vacuum to the door motor. in this era I believe they called
this a thermactor air system. If all the parts are there
check out theoperation of each piece, suck on the
controler for the door does it move? if so and all the
hoses are installed properly replace the sensor/switch.
Good luck!
Jim Flinchbaugh 87 F150 4x4 EFI5.0
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 17:39:33 -0700
From: "Jim" onyx.digisys.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cracked exhaust

heres my 3 cents(inflation)
as an engine rebuilder ,just about every 5.0/5.8 we see
in the shop has one if not both manifolds cracked or
broken. Our theory is excess heat from the cat.
converter. These rigs are notorious for this and almost
always used for some kind of towing. if you have access
to one, hit the manifold with a infared heat gun just after
pulling a hill. You won't belive what you see. Ive seen
these things glow red after pulling a hill with a trailer on.
for replacements try your napa store, ours here in town
stocks brand new aftermarket ones for about 70 bucks!
another source is A&A Midwest in Las Vegas (also
known as Enginequest) Keep on truckin' ,Jim


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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 22:49:05 -0800
From: "Pinson" speakeasy.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 4.6L

They also offer a version of the Twin Cam in the Navigator.
What a Kick.
Britt Pinson
pinson speakeasy.org


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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 22:54:16 -0800
From: "Pinson" speakeasy.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Answer to Rattling Calipers

The clunk is pretty pronounced. I was wondering what kind of Caliper hard
ware your truck has, is it pins or is it the Double rail metal lined rubber
plugs?
Mine has the Metal/Rubber plugs and I am afraid that the Caliper Carriers
are shot, which would mean changing the whole hub/spindle assembly.
I am hoping that this is not the case and that the Calipers are the problem.
Thanks.
Britt Pinson
pinson speakeasy.org


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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 22:56:25 -0800
From: "Pinson" speakeasy.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Caliper clunk

Mine has the Anti-rattle clips that run the full length of the Caliper.
Thanks.
Britt Pinson
pinson speakeasy.org


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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 23:09:14 -0800
From: "Pinson" speakeasy.org>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Thanks to Jim Cannon

Craig, I did the rivet procedure on my 1972 and it was much easier than most
believe. If you can reach the rivets with a drill then it is much easier to
drill them if you use cutting fluid than it is to grind them off ( No
pounding involved). As for the Safety part, the bolts are much stronger than
the rivets if they are properly torqued and it also makes future front end
repairs much easier.

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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 01:18:42 -0800
From: "Isaac Godsey" prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '88 stuff

There are really only 4 dents. One is big, and the other thre are small
enough to where you can't even see them. We can get those out with a magnet
or a suction cup. It's black, and we're keeping it black. The existing paint
is oxidized. That's the problem. My dad was saying maybe we could take a
class, he had a friend who did that. We'll look into that. Thanx for the
suggestion.
Isaac(Godzilla)

> David's advice about signing up for a shop class is excellent. Prepping a
> vehicle for painting is labour intensive, time consuming work, even when
> you're using the correct tools and materials, and have training and
> experience. Good bodymen have the eyes and hands of sculptors.
>
> It is also important to be realistic about your capabilities - if there is
> a significant amount of rust, a poorly done existing paint job,or body
> damage, you may still be better off getting some of the work
> professionally done.
>
> Another factor you should consider is that to properly repaint a truck, a
> lot of it will have to be dissassembled - this means more than just trim.
> It includes the truck box. And if you are planning a color change, then
> you're really going to have to tear that baby apart.
>
> Another point to remember is that today's basecoat/clearcoat systems
> require a good deal of attention to detail in smoothing and preparing the
> body surface. The paint is sparingly applied, and covers few sins.
>
> --
> katethepaintbitch