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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Sun, 28 May 2000 22:27:31 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 22:27:31 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #99
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80-96-list Digest Sun, 28 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 099

In This Issue:
: Starter or Snakebit pt.2
Electrical Problem:
Re: Starter or Snakebit pt.2
Re: Electrical Problem:
Re: popping exhaust
Re: Towing with an F350
ADMIN: Supernationals Report, part I
Re: Towing with an F350
Re: Towing with an F350
Re: Towing with an F350
Front Brake Stone Shield Question
Transfer Case ?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "mike madden" garlic.com>
Subject: : Starter or Snakebit pt.2
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 22:22:20 -0700

Do not overlook the ground circuit. It is JUST as important as the power
circuit.
good luck!
mike madden
morgan hill, ca

> Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 22:51:25 -0500
> From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
> Subject: Re: Starter or Snakebit pt.2
>
> Moe (and anyone else in the Houston area)-
>
> The BEST starter, generator and alternator guy I have found in the area
is:
>
> Fleet Electrical Rebuilding Service
> Mark Propst - Owner
> 713-643-4864
> 4139 Weslow
> Houston 77087
>
> He is down south of the Sout Loop, between Astroworld and Gulf Freeway.
>
> If you can drive it there, he can tell you what is wrong with it. I agree
> with Smeck, I would replace all of the cables. I use all 2 guage cable,
> except for the link between the engine and the frame, I do not use no
wimpy
> 16 ga., I use 4 guage.
>
> I set it up with 2 ga straight to starter mounting bolt, with the 4 ga.
> from the same bolt up to the frame. 2 ga. from solenoid to starter; 2 ga.
> from battery to solenoid.
>
> As someone else said, clean the cable conneciton points. Sounds like bad
> cable or bad conneciton to me, not bad starter.
>
> Jim Cannon
> Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
> '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
> '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
>
>>


------------------------------

From: "mike madden" garlic.com>
Subject: Electrical Problem:
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 22:43:48 -0700

Those symptoms are so wierd that it almost has to be a missing ground at the
rear wiring harness. Follow the wiring where it leaves the rear of the frame
and goes to a connector, then to both sides of the bed. Somewhere you'll
find a lug screwed to the frame or the body (bed?) What is probably
happening is that the brake lites find ground backwards through the front
park bulbs, but that ground "goes away" when the front bulbs are on. You
might have also noticed a faint glow from the turn signal indicator on the
dash.
good luck,
mike madden
morgan hill, ca




> ------------------------------
>
> From: BanksRVA aol.com
> Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 02:00:25 EDT
> Subject: Re: Electrical
>
> Here I go again, if it's not one vehicle it's the other.
> Facts: 82 F100 300 T18
> Symptoms: Brake lights work only if parking lights and head lights are
off.
> Brake lights, not reverse lights, come on when truck is
put
> in reverse.
> Head lights, blinkers, hazards, and parking lights work.
> Help! Did I lose a ground or something?
> Thanks,
> Joe
>



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 06:00:21 -0400
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Starter or Snakebit pt.2

Shawn,

In general, the transplant automakers (Japanese cars made here) don't
buy parts from more than a very few American companies. The parts that
are sourced in the U.S. are made primarily by other Japanese owned or
controlled companies.

My company supplies parts for the majority of Ford and GM vehicles
(including some in Europe and South America), and we will be in
Daimler-Chrysler for MY01. We supply the heavy duty world (Mack, DDC,
Caterpillar, etc.), and have an excellent track record for quality,
customer service, and low warranty returns.

We have poured countless dollars into chasing Honda and Nissan, building
prototypes and proving that we meet their durability requirements. Our
prices met their objectives, and our factory passed their audits. The
discussions always end there.

Our company used to own a Japanese company (with a similar name) that is
now a competitor, although we still have open sharing of technology and
some trade agreements. At Subaru's request we developed a product to
meet their functional and reliability requirements. When we were done,
Subaru visited us for further discussion. During the discussion, they
brought up our Japanese affiliate. We explained the relationship
between the two companies. The folks from Subaru apologized politely,
got up, and walked out. We never heard from them again. I guess they
don't do much research.

So don't let Toyota (or the others) kid you; there aren't very many
"American" parts in there. The profits ($$$) are still headed across
the Pacific.

Steve S.

Shawn & Jennifer Clark wrote:
>
[BIG SNIP]
> As consolation, the Tundra is built
> in the U.S. My guess is that they buy as many components as they can in
> the U.S. to reduce shipping cost. Competition with imports has improved
> all of the other lines, hope it spreads to full size trucks. Then we'll
> all be happier.
>
> Shawn Clark
> e-mail: sd&jkclark tyler.net
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: BanksRVA aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 10:43:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Electrical Problem:

In a message dated 5/28/00 1:40:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lugnut garlic.com writes:

<< Those symptoms are so wierd that it almost has to be a missing ground at
the
rear wiring harness. >>

That's exactly what it was. I found the problem yesterday afternoon, ran a
new ground, and it works just fine.
Thanks,
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 10:30:49 -0500
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: popping exhaust

I think I have the same popping exhaust sound on my 300 I-6 that he has,
and it is not raw fuel in the exhaust pipe exploding. It is more of a
"push" sound. I'm thinking I have a sticky exhaust valve. I'm thinking
about running some Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel for a couple of tank
fulls to try to clean/lubricate it.

At 18:22 27-05-00 -0400, you wrote:
> > bad exhaust problem though, it pops like something else,
> > so I'm thinking I need to fix something.
>
>a fiery bang in yer exhaust indicates raw fuel is making its way
>into the tailpipe and igniting. check the spark plugs, wires, dist.
>cap, and rotor for cracks and oxidized connections; a plug not
>firing because of such a condition will let raw fuel get pumped out
>into the tailpipe to explode later.


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


------------------------------

Date: 28 May 00 12:19:34 PDT
From: Tim Clevenger usa.net>
Subject: Re: Towing with an F350

Hi Tim,

Go with the flatbed, definitely. The last front-wheel dolly I rented from the
local equipment rental used heavy nylon straps and a ratchet system to secure
the front wheels. We had issues with the front of the car "binding" on the
dolly when trying to make a tight turn to get out of the parking lot, and
twice on the freeway the worn ratchet system released one of the wheels on the
car. A flatbed is a much safer bet, and it doesn't put any miles on the rear
diff of your Porsche.

Too bad Priceline.com doesn't let you bid on gas yet!

Regards,

Tim Clevenger
'85 Ford F250 460 T19

------------------------------

From: Ledskiaol.com
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 16:30:53 EDT
Subject: Towing with an F350

Well, little more than I week and I fly out to Washington State from Ohio to
buy my father-in-laws truck and camper. A 94 F 350 SC dually with the 460
(get this..14,000 miles) and a 12 ft Caribou camper (3000 lbs?) in the bed.
If my stepson's car is ready I'll be towing that back too. The car is a 67
Porsche 912(?).
Anyone have any good advice on how to tow that? With a Dolly, or Trailer
(Penske? or Uhaul?)
The Hitch has a 48" extension and according to the camper manual the
extension can be bolted to the bottom of the camper bumper. There are holes
there; I looked last time out.

With just the camper we got 8 1/2 mpg last month so I'll probably have to get

a loan to buy gas on the trip back.

Tim
94 EB Explorer



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 16:31:01 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Supernationals Report, part I

Part one in a series of articles about the 22nd Annual F100
Supernationals in Pigeon Forge, Tennesee is now on the web
site.

Go to the main page of the site, www.ford-trucks.com, and
click on the link in the Recent Site additions.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts




------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 14:08:46 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Towing with an F350

At 12:19 PM 5/28/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Too bad Priceline.com doesn't let you bid on gas yet

It's not Priceline.com holding things up. The gas companies
aren't going for it. They figure that gas is not a perisable so
that if it doesn't sell today or this week, it will sell tomorow
or next week. There really is no pressure for them to go for
Pricelines idea. I did sign up at the very beginning though,
just in case :-)

Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
86 F150 300 cu in six banger
FAX 1-310-822-6815


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 18:18:28 -0500
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: Towing with an F350

At 12:19 28-05-00 -0700, you wrote:

>Too bad Priceline.com doesn't let you bid on gas yet!

It does, actually!


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 18:32:43 -0500
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: Towing with an F350

At 18:18 28-05-00 -0500, I wrote:
>At 12:19 28-05-00 -0700, you wrote:
>
>>Too bad Priceline.com doesn't let you bid on gas yet!
>
>It does, actually!

Let me rephrase that... I heard from a guy not too long ago that he bought
some gas through Priceline.com; I have not personally.


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


------------------------------

From: "Bowman, John" mtt.ca>
Subject: Front Brake Stone Shield Question
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 23:36:29 -0300

I have an '83 F100 and the stone shield that protects the front brakes on
the left front wheel is rattling. The question is do I need it and if so,
how do I replace it? Is the part expensive?

*************************
John Bowman
Nova Scotia
Canada
*************************

------------------------------

From: "Phil Maher" voicenet.com>
Subject: Transfer Case ?
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 23:28:18 -0400


How much end play is normal, on the rear output shaft of a manual shift Borg Warner 13-56, fixed yoke, transfer case? The service manual makes no mention of end play or shims to get rid of it. It's not making any noise or metal, but having a good 1/8 inch of end play dosn't seem right to me. The lock nut for the yoke is torqued to the max of 180 ft-lbs. TIA Phil Maher maherpvoicenet.com


------------------------------

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