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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Sat, 20 May 2000 07:19:36 -0400 (EDT) Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 07:19:36 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #91 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Thu, 18 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 091 In This Issue: Re: Seat Interchangeability Oil Pressure Sender Re: Seat Interchangeability Re: Poor Running - Fixed! Re: Oil Pressure Sender Re: droopy front end-measurement Re: Seat Interchangeability 1995 Questions HO or NO?(351W) Re: 1995 Questions Re: Corporate Rear-End TEST 80 Ford F250 351 M - Choke Heater - Question 87 5.0 Oil Pan Removal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Awfanning aol.com Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 21:13:54 EDT Subject: Re: Seat Interchangeability In a message dated 5/18/00 Chuck wrote: < < Am looking to install either bucket seats or a 64/40 seat> > Have you considered shrinking the truck consider the approach I used on my '82 (when it was new) after discovering my kneecaps were in the glovebox when my wife drove. That was to fab a support structure that let me mount a set of BMW buskets in the cab. It's not all that hard to do using the existing bench seat brackets, a riser section of 1" x 2" rectangular tubing running fore-aft ontop of the OEM bracket, and a front and rear piece of 1" x 1" square tubing running transversely (i.e., side-to-side). Contact me off list for more details. I do make it to the LA and Orange Co. areas from time to time, if that helps. Alan San Jose '82 F-150 S'Cab I fab'd a set of mounts for bucket ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 18:16:09 -0700 From: Marv & Marge Subject: Oil Pressure Sender OK, so I discover the Mickey-Mouse way they "digitize" an analog oil pressure guage using a 20 ohm resistor. Has anybody found a suitable sender that allows one to bypass the resistor and get a real analog oil pressure relative reading using the stock guage? ^^^^^ -Marv- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 19:10:31 -0700 From: chuck sanborn Subject: Re: Seat Interchangeability At 09:13 PM 5/18/00 -0400, you wrote: >. That was to fab a support >structure that let me mount a set of BMW buskets in the cab Thanks Alan....I was pretty sure I could use any seats I wanted to dig up and have no trouble fabbing the tracks. I appreciate the comeback on this. How do those BMW seats look/feel anyway? Chuck ------------------------------ From: "Mark Salvetti" Subject: Re: Poor Running - Fixed! Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 23:18:00 -0400 Well, I'm back. Haven't had time to check email for a couple of days. Tuesday the truck left me at work again. Didn't get back there to remove the throttle until around midnight. The Phillips-head machine screws that held in my TPS were so badly rusted I had to take the throttle home and cut them off with a Dremel. A little tip: When you're standing in the hardware aisle of Home Depot at 1AM with a throttle in one hand and you're unable to find any replacement machine screws that fit the TPS threads, it's because they're METRIC (M4)! Figured that out Wed AM with the help of the dealer's parts fiche. Replaced the screws with bolts so I can get them off with a box wrench if I ever have to go at this again. Anyway, replaced the TPS and now the truck runs great. Oh, as for checking the TPS output voltage, these are the wire colors per the Haynes. There are three wires coming off the connector where the TPS connects to the wiring harness. This test is done with the connector together and the engine not running (but the ignition on): Pre-1991: Neg voltmeter probe to the black/white wire, pos probe to the dark green/light green wire. 1991 and later: Neg probe to grey/red wire, pos probe to the grey/white wire. Rather than pierce the wires, I pushed sewing needles into the connector where the wires went in. Then connected the probes to the needles using alligator clips. I was able to vary the throttle-closed output voltage of the new TPS from about 1.0 to 1.2 volts (I went with 1.0) by shifting it around, but as Bob Kennedy mentioned it would have been easy to elongate the mounting holes a bit and get a greater range. Thanks again everyone. This list is great! Mark Salvetti 1986 F150 5.0L ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 01:28:22 -0400 From: Harold Norman Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Sender hi- Marv & Marge wrote: > > OK, so I discover the Mickey-Mouse way they "digitize" an analog oil > pressure guage using a 20 ohm resistor. Has anybody found a suitable > sender that allows one to bypass the resistor and get a real analog > oil pressure relative reading using the stock guage? > ^^^^^ > -Marv- here's some info. i posted elsewhere... gathered from other folks. HTH -- hn ----- % cut here % ----- On a '91 the stock gauge is nothing more than a glorified idiot light. The sender is a light sender that just goes to ground when there is 7 lbs. of pressure [ other posts suggest 4.5 lbs. ] and the gauge is set to swing into the "normal" range when the sender grounds. Before you do anything mechanical, you can convert the gauge to a "real" gauge by replacing the sender with one from an '87 Bronco. You will need an adaptor because the sender is too big and will hit the block. Get this from your Ford dealer. Check the archives, I have detailed this procedure before and it will give you a part number for that piece. Then just pull the instrument cluster out and jump the 20 ohm resistor on the back of the oil pressure gauge and then you will have a "real" gauge. Chances are you do not have a pressure problem. _ _| ~~. John Strauss \, *_} jstrauss inetport.com \( Texas Fight! ----- % cut here % ----- ----- % cut here % ----- P/N referred to above is: D1UZ-9B339-A . This ought fix ought to work for vehicles up through '91. I haven't looked at the gauge schematics to compare the '88-'91 oil pressure gauge setup to a '92-'96 configuration. ----- % cut here % ----- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 19:55:44 +1000 From: les williams Subject: Re: droopy front end-measurement Hi Paul The usual disclaimers apply: No responsibility taken etc, and assumes that the truck has no chassis twists, smash damage, etc. and as Phred would say, you know which end sissors cut ... I assume you are referring to a 2X4 ? Still the normal twin 'I' beam front end ? If so my understanding of the front end is that the ride height is mission critical, to the alignment figures. The more the truck sags in the springs the worst the camber will be. This isn't rocket science. Since ford officially frown upon the modification of the 'I' beam (heating, bending, twisting, yes, I have seen it all done), I quite fail to see the point in bending a $500 'I' beam to save a $90 spring replacement. Remember Mrs Murphy's Rules ? A $300 TV 'tube blowing to save a 10c fuse ..... A block of wood 5 inches long, placed under the chassis rail, next to the bump stop and the top of the 'I' beam should be used. I'm not sure how many years the 5 inch block works for. Obviously if the gap is too small, then the springs have sagged. Park the truck on a level floor - I mean spirit level, level. Lift the front of the chassis, one side at a time and place the 5" block as described above and ease the load back of the jack. When both sides are done, This is what your truck front ride height should have been when it rolled of the assembly line. Use the spirit level on the underside of the chassis rail just foward of the front of the rear leaf spring hanger. If the 'bum' reads high, your lucky, but more than likley it will indicate sagged rear springs also. Once again lift the rear of the chassis, with a floor jack till the spirit level is level, stand back and that should be close to original level and pre-load ride height. Like I said, it aint rocket science, but time consuming. If you are lucky enough to talk a friendly wheel aligner type person into doing this on a wheel alignment equipment, check the castor before the 5" blocks go in, and compare with the after. When you have finished mucking around and have convinced youself that new springs are/are not required, don't forget to remove the wooden blocks ....it's going to be one of a hell of a firm ride till something lets go. After close examination of the front end like this, you will realize that there is no user caster/camber adjustment, and to try and lower or raise the ride height from stock by cutting or spacing the coil springs, & not chop out tyres, is bloody difficult. If anyone else has anything to add, then please feel free to jump right on in, I don't claim to know it all. I am aware that ford do supply c/camber figures for variations of ride heights right down to 3" (as the spring saggs) but I don't feel this is the answer in this case. .... But I'm still having fun in a Ford ....yes, with a matching set of saggy springs ..... regards Les Lost in the Land of OZ Paul Rozell wrote: > What is the best way to check the front end on a truck to see if it is indeed the springs. Are > there any points on the frame that I should measure from. I am considering changing the springs > just because I don't like the diving front end on my truck. Several places here have the springs > ranging from 70 to 85 bucks. Any help would be highly appreciated. > > Paul Rozell > 65 F100 460 C6 > 96 F150 5.0 SC > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 19:56:17 +1000 From: les williams Subject: Re: Seat Interchangeability Hi Chuck, The XE-XF Falcon, and Sheel Falcon bucket seats fit real good. The falcon seats were fitted as an ambo option, using a fabric woven with Stainless Steel fibres, I'm sure, almost wear proof, and blood & chunder just wipes clean off. ;-)) That leaves you with a space between the seats to fit a fridge big enough for a couple of slabs of beer ... er sorry, fizzy pop!! Of course, there is only one thing wrong, I have no idea if you falcons are anything like ours down here in OZ, but then a locally assembled F100, of our vintage, has a lot of falcon parts. Can the gearstick be worked over with the gasaxe (I love the the gasaxe !!) and bent foward, a la 'R' series manual floorshift Valiant/Dodge sedans ? regards Les Lost in the land of OZ Chuck Sanborn wrote: > Subject truck: 86 F150 w/bench seat > Wife is 5'4" > Her truck > I have built "training blocks" for the clutch and she still has > trouble reaching the damn thing. I just installed a floor > shifter so the seat cannot go any further forward and still > us 1st and 3rd (three speed) > Am looking to install either bucket seats or a 64/40 seat. > My question is (finally), what year seats will ingterchange > to the 86? Probably kind of a no brainer question as I think > I can probably use any seat I want but if any of you have done > this I'm lookin for suggestions as junkyard trucks are in short > supply out here in So. Cal. > Thanks, > Chuck > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: bennettr hiwaay.net Subject: 1995 Questions Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 06:53:18 -0500 Ok I just traded my old 87 F150 for a 1995 F150 SC 4X4 and I have a couple of questions. This truck has a 5.0L with mass air and I was wandering if the mass air engine also had SEFI or if it still uses bank fired injection? Also someone mentioned a while back about being able to get factory manuals or copies of factory manuals, the Haynes manual doesn't reference the fact that some of these trucks came with mass air and has no electrical diagrams for a mass air equipped truck. One last thing does anyone have any information on checking the EEC codes on this truck, it apparently uses a different set of codes because I got a stored code of 452 or at least that what I think it is the 3 digit code thew me. I cleared it and it hasn't come back but I wanted to know what it was. Rex ------------------------------ From: "Joel Thomas" Subject: HO or NO?(351W) Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 22:10:31 -0500 I have a 1987 351W in my 1984 F-150. it is a fuel injected engine with all fuel injected and computer parts taken off. it has a edelbrock600,mallory ignition and distributor,K and N filter. would this engine be an HO with the slightly proted heads or what since it was an fuel injected engine. WAIT, i just though of something didn't the injected 351Ws not come out till later?? i know the 302 were in 84 i think but when were the windsors and would a 87 be an HO becuase this motor will fly it had an 84 351W 2V that was good but nothing like this motor. i tore that one up with water LONNNGGG southern 4wheeling story, with a thunder storm thrown in. can anyone help my dilemma?? thanks Joel Thomas ------------------------------ From: FLR150 aol.com Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 11:16:18 EDT Subject: Re: 1995 Questions In a message dated 5/19/00 7:54:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bennettr hiwaay.net writes: << This truck has a 5.0L with mass air and I was wandering if the mass air engine also had SEFI or if it still uses bank fired injection? Also someone mentioned a while back about being able to get factory manuals or copies of factory manuals, the Haynes manual doesn't reference the fact that some of these trucks came with mass air and has no electrical diagrams for a mass air equipped truck. One last thing does anyone have any information on checking the EEC codes on this truck, it apparently uses a different set of codes because I got a stored code of 452 or at least that what I think it is the 3 digit code threw me. I cleared it and it hasn't come back but I wanted to know what it was. >> Rex, Yes it has SEFI. I am also the one that can get you the manual on CD. Email me off list and we'll chat. These trucks have the 3 digit codes. The 452 is a PSOM failure. That is probably due to the fact that the person you bought it from pulled the battery cable with the key on. Did it throw any other codes? If not than it is a "ghost" code, as long as the truck is running good. Later, Wayne Foy 94 Flareside SC 1999 Fun Ford Weekend Racing series #2 Top Truck Atlanta GA ------------------------------ From: Greg Carter Subject: Re: Corporate Rear-End Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 11:19:33 -0400 See http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/buildup/dana60.html then follow the link to the rear axle. Greg Carter Entrust Technologies - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.entrust.com -----Original Message----- From: Marv & Marge [mailto:ae722 lafn.org]Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 8:32 PM To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.comSubject: [80-96-list] Re: Corporate Rear-End And then said: > I converted it to disks at the same time so never had to worry about drums. Wanna' tell me more? Costs? Rear ABS deletion? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ From: "droptopgt" Subject: TEST Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 10:58:01 -0500 TEST Craig Staggs ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 16:42:17 -0400 From: Dick Hughes Subject: 80 Ford F250 351 M - Choke Heater - Question Hello: Truck is equipped with a thermostatic spring housing which controls the choke action. Choke plate is not opening fully. Removed the Choke Heater. The inlet tube to the choke had a small hole in it. Replaced that portion of the assembly. Question: How is the air drawn into the choke heater inlet tube? Is is done by vacumn? The inlet tube of the choke heater attaches to the main body of the carb. I am assuming that the air is drawn into the heater through the passageway in the body of the carb. (Asses like u-an- me assume.)(smile) There is a picture of the Choke Heater at the following url: > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://infoweb.magi.com/~tedwyn/index.html Scroll down to "Testing Area", then scroll down a bit further and click" "Go to Frame". I aplogize for the screwed up text! I tried, Lord God, I tried, but I am not too swift. My thanks for your help. Regards, Dick Please remove (spam) from my mail address to reply directly. -- ------------------------------ From: MRStace84 aol.comDate: Sat, 20 May 2000 08:18:42 EDT Subject: 87 5.0 Oil Pan Removal Hello List, I'm trying to remove the oil pan on an 87 5.0 2WD without pulling the engine. I unbolted the motor mounts, and transmission mounts and jacked the motor and tranny up against the firewall, but I still don't seem to have enough clearance to get the pan out. I was wanting to know if anyone else had tried doing this with any success... or lack of success? Thanks Stacy Fisher 84 F150 4x4 98 Ranger XLT 4x4 ------------------------------ End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #91 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 80-96-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- |
