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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:47:12 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:47:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #9
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Wed, 16 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 009

In This Issue:
94 Ranger XLT
Re: 94 Ranger XLT
Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help
Body Lift/Front Bumper???
Re: Body Lift/Front Bumper???
Re: Leaning tires
Axle wrap fixes
Re: Coil question AND oil leak results
Frame
Re: Help Finding floor mat
Body lift front bumper
FW: Unable to open web site
Re: FW: Unable to open web site
Re: Axle wrap fixes
Ignition
Re: Leaning tires
Re: Axle wrap fixes
Re: Leaning tires
Subject: Re: re second nipple
Re: 4wd Front Axle Problem
Re: Stalling when engine is hot
Re: Stalling when engine is hot
Re: max tire height-F150
Re: 4wd Front Axle Problem
Re: Subject: Re: re second nipple
Re: 4wd Front Axle Problem
Re: 4wd Front Axle Problem
Re: Axle wrap fixes

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: falcon wmmrmail.com
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 13:29:21 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 94 Ranger XLT

Hey all, I do hope someone out there can help. I am looking to "raise" my truck a little for more clearence and looks. I have a 2x4 94 XLT ranger STOCK. I want to raise the boidy 3 inches and put bigger tires on it. any ideas?

Thanks
Falcon.

....................................
Get your free WMMR email account at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wmmr.com


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:54:25 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 94 Ranger XLT

Call Darrell at 800-99-CEPEK. He'll see if it can be done.

Bob


falcon wmmrmail.com wrote:

> Hey all, I do hope someone out there can help. I am looking to "raise" my truck a little for more clearence and looks. I have a 2x4 94 XLT ranger STOCK. I want to raise the boidy 3 inches and put bigger tires on it. any ideas?
>
> Thanks
> Falcon.
> .

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 14:55:21 -0500

I thought they used spools?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>was made up when I heard that NASCAR uses Detroit Lockers.

------------------------------

From: "Nelson Vasconcelos" mindspring.com>
Subject: Body Lift/Front Bumper???
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 15:52:38 -0500

Hi, I have a 1989 Ford F150 4x4 and it has a 3" body lift. The front bumper
is still in the stock position and there is an ugly gap between the bumper
and the body. I've been looking for brackets but no one sells them. I can
fab up some myself if I have to. Have you heard of any ideas on how to make
my own lift brackets or modify the stock ones? have you seen any front
bumpers for my truck with lift brackets and what are the prices? I like the
Smittybilt tube
bumpers and the Warn Enforcer.

Please point me in the right direction, no one else has really helped me on
this.

Thanks for the help.
Nelson




------------------------------

From: Greg Carter entrust.com>
Subject: Re: Body Lift/Front Bumper???
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 16:07:45 -0500

Hi,
Check out http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/buildup/winch.html

For the bumper I went with, other pics of it on the main page (link below).
Bye. They made a bumper for me, which compensated for my 3" body life,
winch mount...

Greg Carter
Entrust Technologies - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.entrust.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/buildup/dana60.html


-----Original Message-----
From: Nelson Vasconcelos [mailto:nelson150 mindspring.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 3:53 PM
To: Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Subject: [80-96-list] Body Lift/Front Bumper???


Hi, I have a 1989 Ford F150 4x4 and it has a 3" body lift. The front bumper
is still in the stock position and there is an ugly gap between the bumper
and the body. I've been looking for brackets but no one sells them. I can
fab up some myself if I have to. Have you heard of any ideas on how to make
my own lift brackets or modify the stock ones? have you seen any front
bumpers for my truck with lift brackets and what are the prices? I like the
Smittybilt tube
bumpers and the Warn Enforcer.

Please point me in the right direction, no one else has really helped me on
this.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 17:49:50 -0600
From: Ezekial galstar.com>
Subject: Re: Leaning tires

My 88 2by does have ball joints. I didn't replace them myself, I would
now after gaining some knowledge but I ordered the parts.

Is your sons 92 a 4by or 2by??

I could send you a picture of my 88's Front end if you would like to
take a look

++++++++++++++++
On a two wheel drive truck? I just changed the king pins in a 91 ford
van
and my son's 92 sits on my lift with king pins in the beams???

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>the 87 & up for sure do not have kingpins.. I am not sure what
>year they
>dropped them in but the 87up's have ball joints

------------------------------

From: kb9odg.mark juno.com
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 18:21:39 -0600
Subject: Axle wrap fixes

Hi all,

Does anyone have a good suggestion as to how to reduce or even eliminate
rear axle wrap on an '87 F-150 with a 300 six. I just put new tires on
the back of this thing, and I can still spin my tires. But I usually end
up bouncing like a mo.... Anyway, it's gotta be hurting the truck and I
want to get rid of it. Any suggestions?

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, boring ...
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: kb9odg.mark juno.com
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 18:19:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Coil question AND oil leak results

I seriously think it was a performance gain. My old coil did work most
of the time, except when it cut out every so often. With my old coil, I
was never able to get my tires spinnin' while in first and flooring it at
about 1 grand. Now I can.

- Mark

>
> -----------------
> I bought an MSD Blaster coil
> and am more than happy with the results.
> ----------------
> is this performance wise or just now its working again? mine is
> working fine
> but have thought of getting msd blaster coil and putting it in just
> for a
> little performance gain. better milage? faster? EZ to install?
>
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: "Joel Thomas" prodigy.net>
Subject: Frame
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 18:41:18 -0600


I am looking to buy a 88 f250 frame for my big truck project.
it has the full floating HD rear axle stock.
it is a diesel with a c6.
and 2wd

how hard would it be to bolt on my 1984 f150 cab
351W/T-18/NP208
and make the frontend(2wd)
to a 4wd
i think they are just leaf springs on the front end
so couldn't i just put and axle under there then run the
driveshaft and make it 4wd
are the 2wd frames different than 4wd
and also how do i know if this is a strong f250 frame
becuase i have been told there are three different f250s
a light duty with heavyduty rear springs and more heavier one
then the heavydutiest one which would this be???


thanks
Joel Thomas
Little Rock,AR


------------------------------

From: Lingus0169 aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 21:02:50 EST
Subject: Re: Help Finding floor mat

hi, does anyone know where i can get a floor mat for my 85 f150? I ripped
mine and wanted to put a new one in. thankx in advance
nick
82 351w/4 spd
85 f150 4x4

------------------------------

From: "Kevin Crandall" anv.net>
Subject: Body lift front bumper
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 18:53:08 -0800

Nelson, I have a 94 with a 2" body lift. I also had the same problem. I
looked all over for the brackets as well. I was to the point where i was
going to notch out the bottom of the bumper so I can raise it up by using
the existing brackets and redrilling the holes. Then I found a shop that
could raise it for me. What they did was, just aft where the brackets are
they cut the frame removing the bumper and the brackets as a unit. Then they
welded steel plates aprox 6" long to the frame and rewelded the bumper to
the plates in the correct position. I have to tell you I was a bit nervous
about it, but it turned out great, and only cost me $100.00 to have it done.
I say only $100., I was to the point i would have paid anything to get it
raised. (The bumper that is LOL)

Good Luck

Kevin


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 21:12:01 -0600
From: bridgtap swbell.net>
Subject: FW: Unable to open web site



-----Original Message-----
From: bridgtap [mailto:bridgtap swbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 8:20 PM
To: truck list
Subject: Unable to open web site
Importance: High


Ken;
Is it just me or my server,I can not pull up the web site.
bridgtap swbell.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 22:29:34 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: FW: Unable to open web site

At 09:12 PM 2/16/00 -0600, you wrote:


> Ken;
> Is it just me or my server,I can not pull up the web site.
>bridgtap swbell.net

Its you or your server. The web site has been up with no
problems (averaging about 80 meg of data transfer per hour).

Ken



------------------------------

From: "Pinson" speakeasy.org>
Subject: Re: Axle wrap fixes
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:54:27 -0800

Have your Right Foot Surgically Lightened.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 23:35:32 -0800
From: Chris McKinnon cnx.net>
Subject: Ignition

I have a suspition that I may not be getting any advance from my TFI-IV. Is
there an easy way to check? I've been thinking about going to an MSD system.
Any advice (Phred?)
Thanks
Chris
'84 F150
351W on propane
NP 435
NP 208
285K Km


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:10:00 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: Leaning tires

Hi Gary,
I have learnt, over the last few years, when it comes to 'F's, Anything at
all is possible in OZ.
My '85 2WD F100 OZ assembled, has ball joints, and yes I do know the
difference between the two. I have 'done my time' of reaming bushes and
fitting pins.

Have you had the '91 & '92 since new? Not the victims of a bad cut & shut
rebuilds, although you would have to be incredibly (un)lucky to get two. There
has to be a reason. Hmm... Ford had a garage clean up, and found a swag of
'67 beams, and sent them to the assembly line in '91 ????

It's Q & A's like this that turn Spare Parts Personnel into gibbering idiots,
start cussin' real bad about the parentage of one Mr H. Ford, and start
throwing heavy three ringed binder spare part catalogues at you, Well down
here in OZ they could do!! ;-)) A special 'Hi' to the guys at
gardniers spares........in OZ....
But we're still having Fun ......in a Ford.....

regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ


"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote:

> On a two wheel drive truck? I just changed the king pins in a 91 ford van
> and my son's 92 sits on my lift with king pins in the beams???
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> >the 87 & up for sure do not have kingpins.. I am not sure what
> >year they
> >dropped them in but the 87up's have ball joints


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Axle wrap fixes
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 07:43:24 -0500

My dad had a 61 fairlane that did that, what a bummer when you're a 16 year
old kid and no body's watching :-(
Cheapest and simples would be those spring stiffeners type, half spring
dofliningies like you see on cheap drag cars. They bolt to the spring perch
and extend forward to hit the end of the spring when the axle tries to wrap
but they only work in one direction of course so you can't do reverse hole
shots :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Does anyone have a good suggestion as to how to reduce or even
>eliminate
>rear axle wrap on an '87 F-150 with a 300 six. I just put new tires on

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Leaning tires
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 07:47:23 -0500

Haven't looked at the 92 real close yet but I will this weekend for sure and
let Y'all know what I find. The 91 E-150 was a one owner handycap van that
no one else ever worked on but me. It came stock with king pins. Unless
they are doing some kind of arcane thing with ball joints these days, the 92
also has pins but I'll take a closer look this weekend anyway just to make
sure :-)

Do the ball joint versions use the twin I beam suspension?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>My '85 2WD F100 OZ assembled, has ball joints, and yes I do know the
>difference between the two. I have 'done my time' of reaming
>bushes and
>fitting pins.
>
>Have you had the '91 & '92 since new? Not the victims of a bad
>cut & shut

------------------------------

From: "David Anderson (EUS)" am1.ericsson.se>
Subject: Subject: Re: re second nipple
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 07:29:15 -0600

Try this answer and see how it fits. My '90 I6 has two nipples. One goes
to the coolant recovery tank. The other goes to a tee fitting in one the
5/8" rubber heater hoses. Could be someone eliminated the tee and just
plugged the radiator nipple. I think this setup allows some coolant through
the heater core before the thermostat opens.

David Anderson

>t 05:45 PM 2/15/00 -0500, you wrote:
>>he second nipple is for the coolant that runs thru the throttle
>>dy. If you look at yours, you will probably see, rubber hoses running
>>o it already.
>>ich
>Thanks Rich but this is a carburized truck...
>Chuck




------------------------------

From: "Chapman, David P" unisys.com>
Subject: Re: 4wd Front Axle Problem
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:34:12 -0500

Sounds to me like you have a limited slip front differential. I had a 95
F150 with it, and it drove the same way. My dealer told me that's how they
handle and the only way to fix it was to remove the limited slip.

Dave
95 Bronco

-----Original Message-----
From: RobSweed aol.com [mailto:RobSweed aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 1:43 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] 4wd Front Axle Problem


Have any of you out there knowledge of 4wd front axles?
I bought my 94 F-150 SC 4X4 used with 18K three years ago from a Ford
dealer.
The truck had just gone out of warranty and, because it was used I wanted
an
extended FACTORY warranty the dealer obliged me by certifying it. Up until
this past month, in which we had some significant snow, I have very rarely
locked the part time hubs let alone put it in 4wd. I would lock the hubs
occasionally to circulate the lubricants. When I would lock them I felt a
big
difference in the way the truck steered and I had it aligned. I've owned
numerous 4wd's and was accustomed to change in handling characteristics but
this was different. The truck wants to go straight when I want to turn.
Particularly when I turn just a little such as on a road with slight bends.
A
few times I started crossing the double yellow and the shoulder because I
was
distracted and was driving the way I would 99% of the time.

I took it to the dealer and at first they said they couldn't find anything
nor feel a problem while driving it. I took it for a test drive with the
service writer and was embarrassed because it wasn't doing it. I locked the
hub on my side and he did the same on his. I took it back and went to pick
up
the wife and it was driving me crazy that it was no longer doing it. When I
got to my wife's work I checked the hubs again. It turns out that the
passenger side hub was in freewheel. I locked it and the problem returned.

Took the service writer for a ride again, making him drive and it was
obvious
that he found the steering to be disconcerting.

The service writer's final answer was that 1, the front axle has
posi-traction, 2. none of the mechanics could find a problem nor did they
know of a fix for it, 3. no one has ever heard of this before thus there is
no fix for it, 4. it's just a characteristic of this type of vehicle (how
can
it be a characteristic if no ones ever heard of it?) and 5. what am I doing
driving on dry ground with the hubs locked? (do you want to jump out of your

truck every five minutes to lock and unlock them driving in Philadelphia
where only the major streets get plowed)?

Sorry for the long winded message but this has got me bugged,
Bob Sweed
94 F-150 SC 4X4 302ci
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To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
message.

------------------------------

From: "David Anderson (EUS)" am1.ericsson.se>
Subject: Re: Stalling when engine is hot
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:10:05 -0600

You sound like you're checking the right types of things. Neither in your
post nor in responses do I recall seeing mention of checking the throttle
position sensor (TPS). I would suspect this anytime there is a wandering
idle. I may check OK with an ohmmeter cold but get flakey when hot.
Cleaning the EGR is a good idea. They cause trouble by sticking open
causing a lean idle condition. To get it off, repeatedly soak the big nut
with WD40. To make sure the EGR is not the problem, I have in the past,
taken the thing off, plugged the two holes with rubber (or homemade wooden)
stoppers and test driven without it. After this you'll have an EGR fault
code which you may want to clear.
Good Luck,
David Anderson


>
> Stalling: My truck has a nasty habit of stalling
> just after I depress the clutch and begin to brake. It will not stall when
> the engine is cold and it gets worse if I am going downhill. Sometimes on
> flat ground it will recover before stalling and just bounce between 0-1600
> rpm a few times.
> Constant high idle: The truck almost always idles
> around 1050 rpm. I have done the usual...check all vacuum lines, clean the
> air bypass valve (IAC), etc. The one thing I haven't done is check the EGR
> valve because I .......
>



------------------------------

From: "Watkins, Robert (GEP)" gepex.ge.com>
Subject: Re: Stalling when engine is hot
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 09:28:49 -0500

David,
Thanks a lot for the advice. Actually, I forgot to mention that I changed
the TPS. I had a problem with the throttle sticking open (one of the o-rings
on the shaft that holds the butterfly valves went bad) and ended up having
to replace the whole throttle body. The TPS isn't new, but it is "different"
and the same problem exists. I will definitely try plugging the holes.
Thanks. If anyone else has any additional ideas, I'll try just about
anything at this point!

You sound like you're checking the right types of things. Neither in your
post nor in responses do I recall seeing mention of checking the throttle
position sensor (TPS). I would suspect this anytime there is a wandering
idle. I may check OK with an ohmmeter cold but get flakey when hot.
Cleaning the EGR is a good idea. They cause trouble by sticking open
causing a lean idle condition. To get it off, repeatedly soak the big nut
with WD40. To make sure the EGR is not the problem, I have in the past,
taken the thing off, plugged the two holes with rubber (or homemade wooden)
stoppers and test driven without it. After this you'll have an EGR fault
code which you may want to clear.
Good Luck,
David Anderson


>
> Stalling: My truck has a nasty habit of stalling
> just after I depress the clutch and begin to brake. It will not stall when
> the engine is cold and it gets worse if I am going downhill. Sometimes on
> flat ground it will recover before stalling and just bounce between 0-1600
> rpm a few times.
> Constant high idle: The truck almost always idles
> around 1050 rpm. I have done the usual...check all vacuum lines, clean the
> air bypass valve (IAC), etc. The one thing I haven't done is check the EGR
> valve because I .......
>


==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
message.

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:36:43 -0600
Subject: Re: max tire height-F150

Date sent: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:16:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
> What are the tallest tires & wheels that I can put on my 1996 standard
> cab
> F-150 pickup?
>
> Bob

I just asked this question to 2 busy tire shops. 33 X 12.5 X 15 will
rub on turns for sure. 31 X 10.5 X 15 will be OK except maybe
turned hard and hitting a deep hole w/weak coil springs.
Danny
fitz011 ev1.net

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 4wd Front Axle Problem
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 09:55:38 -0500

You all realize of course that with a detroit in the back and open in front
you still have the potential of having one wheel drive.....:-( And with
full time wouldn't it be possible to have no wheel drive due to the
planetary gear set? I mean you're doing a wheelie and one rear tire is on
ice so......Okokok that's not fair......You're in a ditch with two tires in
deep snow and two on icy pavement......with detroit in the rear and open
front you have one wheel drive with part time xfer case, with LS up front
you have 2wd if you use a little brake to force it. This scenerio is close
to my heart because one day I got that way in a scout with open diffs at
both ends and was pulled out by a chevy sedan with summer tires.....:-( How
utterly embarrasing :-(

Having some experience with rear LS and no slippery stuff in the oil I would
say if you have one in the front you should expect a little pulling in
curves and considerable resistance to turn and considerable chatter in sharp
corners such as in town but on dry pavement, still controllable......on ice
though this phenomenon would cause you to slip sideways and be basically out
of control but on any slippery surface with enough traction to force the
wheels to turn independently you would get along fine but not as well as
with an open diff in that situation which brings us to the
ARB/Torsen/TrueTrac way of handling it. There is no preload on any of these
to lock the wheels together, the ARB of course can be opened when you need
it and the LS's lock according to a ratio which is wide enough to allow full
turns with no preload (a 45 degree full lock turn with 104" wheel base nets
a 1.44:1 ratio between the front and rear driveshafts). The Torsen is well
known as the best of the breed for "automatic" control of the front end and
the ARB is the next best choice if you want to have more control and is
reputed to be stronger than any of the others except the Detroit.

Hummers have three Torsens in them but still get stuck in the mud......that
must be telling us something??

BTW, is everyone remembering to trim the posts?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Sounds to me like you have a limited slip front differential.
>I had a 95
>F150 with it, and it drove the same way. My dealer told me
>that's how they
>handle and the only way to fix it was to remove the limited slip.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 07:01:50 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: re second nipple

At 07:29 AM 2/17/00 -0600, you wrote:
>Try this answer and see how it fits. The other goes to a tee fitting in
>one the
>5/8" rubber heater hoses.

Hi David,
OK, that also makes sense. I will check on the heater hoses and see if either
they have been changed or if there is a plugged fitting at that end.
Thanks,
Chuck



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:18:55 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: 4wd Front Axle Problem

Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
>
> You all realize of course that with a detroit in the back and open in front
> you still have the potential of having one wheel drive.....:-(

Only for a split second and if you get stuck like that, you drive too
SLOW!!!!!!!!!

And with
> full time wouldn't it be possible to have no wheel drive due to the
> planetary gear set? I mean you're doing a wheelie and one rear tire is on
> ice so......Okokok that's not fair......You're in a ditch with two tires in
> deep snow and two on icy pavement...

Still have one wheel drive, even with three open diff's, just ain't
movin.

> be basically out
> of control but on any slippery surface with enough traction to force the
> wheels to turn independently you would get along fine but not as well as
> with an open diff in that situation

I had the opportunity recently to blast around on the snow and a frozen
lake with my trail beater. It has a LR in the front, is welded in the
back and has 38.5 tires in the rear and 36.5's in the front. Now I
wouldn't want to drive down the highway in 6" snow at 60 MPH in 4wd
(not that I would do that anyway in 6" snow with any rig) with this
setup, but with all the stuff that was theoretically wrong with this
setup it was very controllable and almost unstoppable offroad. There was
no weird pulling even at 30 MPH plus and it cornered fine, even tight
cornering. Again, not the perfect setup for ice/snow, but not in any way
the bear that you might think it would be.

> Hummers have three Torsens in them but still get stuck in the mud......that
> must be telling us something??

Yeah, not enough HP and too heavy. Also, crappy setup with susp that
hangs down and kills the portal idea. They need solid axles in those
things, like mogs.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/mog/mog05.jpg


OX

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 4wd Front Axle Problem
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 11:14:29 -0500

Actually, if the geniuses at the road commision would leave the roads alone
til the sun comes out, driving on 6" of fresh snow is a breeze in 4wd at 60
mph.....the problem comes in when there is traffic and it turns to slush and
ruts begin to develop, then no kind of rig can handle it at 60.....:-( I've
hauled to town or to work at 60 many times in the snow but you have to know
what kind of snow to do it in for sure and pay attention to the temps. On
cold days where temps stay below 20 the snow and underlying ice are "tacky"
and decent winter tires will bite very well giving you good control. It
goes without saying that you do still have to make special arrangements to
stop under those conditions but you can go like mad if you need to and use a
little common sense :-)

Another danger to this, and quite common around here is the drifting which
is very difficult to see until it is too late which will grab the outside
tires and pull you off the road and of course you react to that by sawing
the wheel in the opposit direction which more or less intantly gets you
sideways. When there are drifts which cover only part of the road I slow
down and when I approach oncoming traffic I slow down, quite a bit but when
I've got the road to myself I enjoy my 4wd, immensely :-) I'm talking two
lanes now not Eways :-) I stay off the Eways when it snows :-)

One time I was headed to Deerfield with my daughter (picked her up after
work and took her to her appartment there) we had to make a choice between
waiting for the police and wreckers to clean up an accident ahead or take a
side road which was not plowed very often and which was drifted over to over
3' in some places. I had never tried to go through that much but I figured
if I went slow I could always back out if I got stuck so I went in third
gear at about 25 mph and we just walked right through all of that and had a
good time doing it too :-) With lockers I wouldn't even question such a
challenge.....it would be a piece a cake :-)

That day I got stuck in Earl's yard would have been a blast with lockers.
The real deep part was over 4' but it was not all that long a stretch so I
feel I could have "busted" through it if I had lockers. Earl hooked up to
my chain on the same car with his F-250 with tractor fuel tank in the back
and lockers front and rear and hauled that car out of there like it was a
tabogin or tooth pick, course he was on the part that wasn't deep, just
steep and packed down.....I was in snow over the bottom of my side windows
and hood :-)

Snow is so much fun!!! :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>wouldn't want to drive down the highway in 6" snow at 60 MPH in 4wd
>(not that I would do that anyway in 6" snow with any rig) with this

------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:48:50 EST
Subject: Re: Axle wrap fixes

In a message dated 2/16/00 7:35:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kb9odg.mark juno.com writes:

<< But I usually end
up bouncing like a mo.... Anyway, it's gotta be hurting the truck and I
want to get rid of it. Any suggestions?
>>
There is a company called Desert Steel in Nevada (I believe). I was having
terrible axle wrap and hop on my Flareside trying to do burnouts and coming
off the line at races. They have a setup called the Trak Truss. It is like
the standard traction bar in theory, but it mounts to the TOP of the spring
pack instead of the bottom. I will be posting the pics and steps on
installation of these as soon as I get a chance. As far as how they work,
well I still have a little bit of hop on full bore nitrous launches but its
no where near the violent, part breaking hops I was having before. The kit
cost me $190 for all the parts and about 2 hours install time. You'll have to
a websearch for their number as I seem to have misplaced it, and they don't
have a website. If you cant find it that way, call Dick Cepek and they will
be able to give it to you.
later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

------------------------------

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