 |
|
|
|
|
|
Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Tue, 16 May 2000 15:37:11 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 15:37:11 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #88 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Mon, 15 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 088 In This Issue: Diesel truck part needed - followup max tire size: 92 F150 2WD Re: Clutch must be down to start TPS Voltage Re: Clutch must be down to start Re: Clutch must be down to start Re: Droopy front ends and new springs Re: max tire size: 92 F150 2WD Re: Poor Running cooling question Re: cooling question Re: TPS Voltage Re: cooling question Re: Owners manual Re: Clutch must be down to start remove from list Re: Owners manual Re: Droopy front ends and new springs Fuel pump/sender... ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Dave Resch" Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 11:07:02 -0600 Subject: Diesel truck part needed - followup Yo FTEs: Never mind. I changed my mind about using the Diesel radiator overflow tank and washer reservoir. That overflow tank is huge! It must hold at least a gallon of coolant. When I positioned the OF tank and reservoir on the bracket under the hood to eyeball the fitment, I was aghast at the amount of space it consumed. This weekend, I decided to fab up a bracket to re-position the regular OF/reservoir combo unit (D8BZ-17618-A) off the fender and rotated 90 degrees to get it out of the way of the auxiliary battery w/out taking up the whole left side inner fender. Took less than $3 of galvanized steel strip and four 5/16x1" bolts and lock nuts. Now, I just hope the dealer will take back that $86 worth of diesel OF tank and washer reservoir I bought last Friday! Dave R (M-block devotee) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 13:13:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Derek Whiteside Subject: max tire size: 92 F150 2WD Hi All: I'm about to buy new tires for my f150, which is my daily driver. I use it for its truck-like abilities, but it's also my main transportation. Current tires are shot (235/75r15), and i'm looking to install wider, slightly lower profile tires. I have the optional 7.5 inch wide wheels. So far, all i've heard is that a 255mm wide tire will fit- but this is less than 1" wider than my current tires. The question: Those of you running wide tires on the same body style 2wd truck, what size are you running, and have you had ANY problems with rubbing/interference? Ideally, I'd like to go to a 275/60-15. Thanks, Derek Whiteside derekw rocketmail.com Albany, OR ps: Cross-posted to perf-list and 80-96 list, so I apologize if any of you receive this twice. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "Hummer Luvver" Subject: Re: Clutch must be down to start Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 22:58:53 GMT To prevent theft, I already have a hidden kill switch. The reason I wanted to know is there are situtions I find where I would prefer to just simply place my truck in neutral and start it. Thank for you the help, I now have a small nylon strap rigged that I can pull and start and start it in nuetral. Thanks for your help.---Nathan ________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Travis Moore" Subject: TPS Voltage Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 17:59:27 -0500 Been following the TPS voltage thread and just wondering, how do you go about setting the voltage? Learn something new every day........................ Doc Email webdoc arkansas.net "Never knock on Death's door... ring the bell and run. He HATES that!" ------------------------------ From: "Terry & Carolyn Welshans" Subject: Re: Clutch must be down to start Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 18:03:01 -0500 I like the safety angle.... Clutch down is how I always start the engine, anyway. However, one time, while off the road on a 4-wheeling trip, I drove into what I thought was a shallow (couple of feet) of water to cross a small stream, only to find a deep hole, and plop, down I went, and the water came right up halfway to the windshield. The engine stopped. The spark plugs were under water, the carb still out, but the engine would not restart. I left the clutch up, put the trans in reverse low range, and backed out with just the starter motor until the engine was out of the water. I would not have been able to do that with one of the new "clutch-down" starting systems. Terry & Carolyn Welshans Lockport, IL http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=238749 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.chicagoweb.net/tractors ------------------------------ From: Scrangler83 aol.com Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 19:13:33 EDT Subject: Re: Clutch must be down to start OK you have convinced me.. hadnt thought of times when i was glad i could do that too, thanks Tom ------------------------------ From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr." Subject: Re: Droopy front ends and new springs Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 22:07:37 -0400 Steve, I got mine from a place that specializes in truck parts and accessories. "Monmouth Truck Center" if you're in New Jersey. Very knowledgeable, and they do everything from wheels to dump beds to lifts. If you like I could get the part numbers for you for those front springs, but know that what I got are the heaviest available (within reason) for the 150, so don't expect it to ride like a Caddy. It's smooth, but it's not soft. As for the rear springs, I imagine most shops would be able to order them for you. The replacement shouldn't be bad if it's anything like the old Mustang I worked on. The biggest problem with the '66 was having to cut the bolts that held the leaf springs in. (the bolts rusted and the rubber dry-rotted to the shaft so I couldn't pull it through the hole) Granted, the truck parts are a whole lot more heavy-duty, but things shouldn't be rusted and gunked up too bad. Hit the bolts with some liquid wrench for a week before you start the job and it should go smoothly. Good luck with it! -Mike ------------------------------ From: S Spaulding Subject: Re: Droopy front ends and new springs. *snip* Where did you get the Moog springs? *snip* The rear on mine is also drooping as a result of occasional waaaay overloading. *snip* Steve ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:04:44 -0700 From: Don or Bub Subject: Re: max tire size: 92 F150 2WD like you i own a 93 f-150 2wd. i i am thinking about adding some new tires. possibly some 31by10.5 a let me know what the answer is thanks bub ------------------------------ From: "Mark Salvetti" Subject: Re: Poor Running Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 23:49:46 -0400 Bob et al, thanks again for the suggestions, and the detailed code description. Sorry about my delay here, but being on digest mode and working late doesn't help. Anyway, no time to check the codes again tonight, but today was occasional OK running, but more low idle (stalling) or high idle periods. At least it ran, which was better than last week. I think I'll replace the TPS, and I'll let you know what happens. I thought about trying to adjust it, but the screws are rusted and hard to get to. If I'm going to all the trouble to remove the throttle, I'm going with a new part. Hopefully that will be the end of it. Although that loss of tach input code worries me. I resealed the intake manifold this past fall, and I wish I could find the gaskets I didn't use, like the one between the butterflies and the intake runners. I have a feeling I may have tossed it. "I'm never going to need that..." Oh well, cheap enough. As for trying to check codes while running, I'm following the Haynes procedure, which calls for running until warm, turn off engine, connect the jumper between the self test input and the large test connector, and then restart. I'm using an analog voltmeter to view the codes. I thought about starting the engine and then connecting the jumper, but I was afraid I might fry something, and it didn't seem important enough to take the chance. Thanks again for your time everyone. Give me a few days to take care of this, and I'll let you know how I make out. Mark Salvetti 1986 F150 5.0L ------------------------------ From: DTrowbridge webtv.net (David Trowbridge) Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 22:51:13 -0500 (CDT) Subject: cooling question which is better for hot bumper to bumper driving and some occasional towing? a flex fan, heavy duty fan clutch, or take out the fan clutch and use an adaptor to make the fan spin all the time? i noticed the other day my temp started to raise over halfway up the gauge while in traffic, and we haven't even had a 100 degree weather day yet! btw... the radiator and water pump are brand new and i am using a 160 degree stat. the coolant also only has about 3000 miles on it. David 85 F-150 300 I6 ------------------------------ From: "Mike Persell" Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 23:06:07 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: cooling question I would stick with a big clutch fan and a factory 190 thermostat. The 160 can sludge that puppy up big time and my foul up the sensor array. Mike On Mon, 15 May 2000 22:51:13 -0500 (CDT), David Trowbridge wrote: >which is better for hot bumper to bumper driving and some occasional >towing? a flex fan, heavy duty fan clutch, or take out the fan clutch >and use an adaptor to make the fan spin all the time? i noticed the >other day my temp started to raise over halfway up the gauge while in >traffic, and we haven't even had a 100 degree weather day yet! btw... >the radiator and water pump are brand new and i am using a 160 degree >stat. the coolant also only has about 3000 miles on it. > >David >85 F-150 300 I6 > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the >message. > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 21:16:08 -0700 From: Bob Kennedy Subject: Re: TPS Voltage The TPS is secured by 2 bolts at the bottom of the Throttle body. The mounting holes in the TPS can me wallowed out to allow for a different resistance to be set, and so increase or decrease the voltage setting. Bob Travis Moore wrote: > Been following the TPS voltage thread and just wondering, how do you go > about setting the voltage? Learn something new every > day........................ > Doc > Email webdoc arkansas.net > "Never knock on Death's door... ring the bell and run. He HATES that!" > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. -- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311 86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0" ------------------------------ From: FULSZBRONC aol.com Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 00:59:42 EDT Subject: Re: cooling question << and use an adaptor to make the fan spin all the time?>>> I'm a firm believer in throwing away the belt driven fan and shroud. Install a quality electric fan setup, invest in a big tranny cooler (if you have an automatic trans), and as Mike Persell suggested, put in the correct temp thermostat (probably 195 degrees). My electric fan has been flawless in keeping the temp gauge on my 351W right at the "R" in "NORMAL" for the last 6 years - summer and winter. (I've used this setup in several other vehicles over the years with great success). And as added insurance, keep the outside of the engine clean. Just my 2 cents Alex ------------------------------ From: Mc Gregor JAMES Subject: Re: Owners manual Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 10:52:40 +0200 Wayne , I sent you an off-line message as requested , last week.Any news on an owners manual for an 1981 F1504wd,300I6 swb,4speed. My e-mail is mosjmmg mossgas.co.za , in case it does not appear.Thanks James ------------------------------ From: Ledski aol.comDate: Tue, 16 May 2000 05:57:21 EDT Subject: Re: Clutch must be down to start Tom, It could be a 4 wheeling thing. If you can crank the engine without the clutch in, and in low gear, your truck moves. Tim << From: Scrangler83 aol.comDate: Sun, 14 May 2000 17:51:25 EDT Subject: Re: Clutch must be down to start stupid question.. why do you want or need to do this? i keep the clutchdown out of habit anyways.. im sure it can easily be changed however Tom >> ------------------------------ From: Todd_Johnston sony.caDate: 16 May 2000 07:52:00 -0500 Subject: remove from list Please remove me from your mailing list Thank you Todd Johnston ------------------------------ From: "John Watson" Subject: Re: Owners manual Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 22:36:02 +1000 James, Were you after a manual, or just a copy of a manual ?? John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mc Gregor JAMES" To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 6:52 PM Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Owners manual > Wayne , I sent you an off-line message as requested , last week.Any news on > an owners manual for an 1981 F1504wd,300I6 swb,4speed. > > My e-mail is mosjmmg mossgas.co.za , in case it does not appear.> > Thanks > > James > > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 10:16:42 -0500 From: Ezekial Subject: Re: Droopy front ends and new springs -snip- >The coils cost >$80, the alignment cost $75, and it'll take you about an hour per side once >you have all your tools set up and a spring compressor handy. I used Pep >Boys' free tool loaner program for the spring compressor, so that cost me >the gas to get to the store and back. I didn't need a spring compressor. I took the wheel off (obviously), disconnected the shock at the bottom and then loosened the bolt in the center of the spring and then pushed down on the axle assembly. The spring will just come loose. Then take out the bold at the top and the little bracket that holds the spring at the top and the spring will come right out. -snip- >I am in the same boat with my '91, so I have a question for you and >Ezekial. Where did you get the Moog springs? Pep Boys? The rear on >mine is also drooping as a result of occasional waaaay overloading. Do >they have relatively stock leaf springs as well, or should I get them >from a lift-kit company? I would just go to a junk yard and pick up a set off another truck that doesn't look like its hauled or pulled much. Also try to get a set with the towing package so that it will have at least one extra leaf. Possibly might want to check into F-250 springs if you still carry lots of weight... A lift company would also be an excellent choice. Be sure to ask for the heavy duty springs and possibly get them like 1in higher while your at it since you front will be higher too, you whole truck would then be an inch higher. Altough your raked look would also come back.. Oh well, just options.. Ezekial (Derrick) 93 F-150 4x4, 351, SC, SB 66 Fastback Stang, 289HP, 4sp, 9inch 96 Conv. Stang, 3.8, lil add ons ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 15:47:56 -0500 From: Steve Deis Subject: Fuel pump/sender... Just wanted to say thanks for all the advice, including a few off-list messages, about rear tank fuel pump/sender fixes for my '88 F-150. Job went easy...I did not pull the bed. Only hard part was removing the inlet tube on the tank side...helps to have very small hands. Front tank will be next weekend, and looks like no big deal as long as the driveshaft comes out first. thanks Steve Deis ------------------------------ End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #88 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 80-96-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.
Advertising -
Terms of Use - Privacy Policy -
Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company. 
|