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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Mon, 15 May 2000 11:25:31 -0400 (EDT) Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 11:25:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #87 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Sun, 14 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 087 In This Issue: Droopy front ends and new springs. Re: Droopy front ends and new springs. Clutch must be down to start Re: Clutch must be down to start Re: Clutch must be down to start Re: Clutch must be down to start Re: Clutch must be down to start Re: Clutch must be down to start Re: Clutch must be down to start Re: Poor Running Re: Poor Running Re: Poor Running Re: Poor Running Re: Poor Running Post-valve-job Problems Re: Poor Running Re: Pls help diagnose my AOD PartsVoice URL ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr." Subject: Droopy front ends and new springs. Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 12:34:13 -0400 For those that care... I completely agree with Ezekial on this one. My '95 has the tow package, 4wd, front-end receiver, and over 100k miles on it. Between all that and some moderate off-roading, the truck started to look like it was always in the middle of a hard stop. Plus the receiver would pick up sand while driving on the beach, and I didn't care for that any. In a frenzy of modifications that I made when I finally got paid this year I replaced the lazy front springs with Cargo Coils by Moog. They're progressive springs, so the more load, the stiffer they get. They also lifted the front end a full 1.5 inches. The truck looks great, and ride has been unbelievably improved, and the new 31" MT's look like they came stock. The coils cost $80, the alignment cost $75, and it'll take you about an hour per side once you have all your tools set up and a spring compressor handy. I used Pep Boys' free tool loaner program for the spring compressor, so that cost me the gas to get to the store and back. Also, if anybody's looking to fill up those wheelwells width-wise, I picked up some 15x8 MT's Alcoa Challengers and they look great. Between the offset and the 1" wider rim they do a perfect job of filling in where the stock rims don't. I was originally considering 10" wide rims, but the difference in cost between the 8" and the 10" was $80 per rim which made the decision really easy. Now I'm glad I didn't get the wider ones so I didn't have to deal with fender flares and whatnot. I had to tell somebody! :) -Mike ----------------------- Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 20:41:18 -0500 From: Ezekial Subject: Re: droopy front end Replace your front springs.. *snip* ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 14:36:18 -0400 From: S Spaulding Subject: Re: Droopy front ends and new springs. I am in the same boat with my '91, so I have a question for you and Ezekial. Where did you get the Moog springs? Pep Boys? The rear on mine is also drooping as a result of occasional waaaay overloading. Do they have relatively stock leaf springs as well, or should I get them from a lift-kit company? Steve "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr." wrote: > > For those that care... > > I completely agree with Ezekial on this one. My '95 has the tow > package, 4wd, front-end receiver, and over 100k miles on it. Between all > that and some moderate off-roading, the truck started to look like it was > always in the middle of a hard stop. Plus the receiver would pick up sand > while driving on the beach, and I didn't care for that any. In a frenzy of > modifications that I made when I finally got paid this year I replaced the > lazy front springs with Cargo Coils by Moog. They're progressive springs, > so the more load, the stiffer they get. They also lifted the front end a > full 1.5 inches. The truck looks great, and ride has been unbelievably > improved, and the new 31" MT's look like they came stock. The coils cost > $80, the alignment cost $75, and it'll take you about an hour per side once > you have all your tools set up and a spring compressor handy. I used Pep > Boys' free tool loaner program for the spring compressor, so that cost me > the gas to get to the store and back. > Also, if anybody's looking to fill up those wheelwells width-wise, I > picked up some 15x8 MT's Alcoa Challengers and they look great. Between the > offset and the 1" wider rim they do a perfect job of filling in where the > stock rims don't. I was originally considering 10" wide rims, but the > difference in cost between the 8" and the 10" was $80 per rim which made the > decision really easy. Now I'm glad I didn't get the wider ones so I didn't > have to deal with fender flares and whatnot. > I had to tell somebody! :) > > -Mike > > ----------------------- > Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 20:41:18 -0500 > From: Ezekial > Subject: Re: droopy front end > > Replace your front springs.. > *snip* > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: "Hummer Luvver" Subject: Clutch must be down to start Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 19:13:49 GMT Is there anyway to conveniently enable the truck to be started without having the clutch down? Is there something fairly simple that can be disconnected or switched?---Nathan '88 F-150 XLT Lariat,4.9 ________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: Scrangler83 aol.com Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 17:51:25 EDT Subject: Re: Clutch must be down to start stupid question.. why do you want or need to do this? i keep the clutchdown out of habit anyways.. im sure it can easily be changed however Tom ------------------------------ From: "Larry Kelley" Subject: Re: Clutch must be down to start Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 17:42:20 -0500 Who you calling stupid? LWK ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com> Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 4:51 PM Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Clutch must be down to start > stupid question.. why do you want or need to do this? i keep the clutchdown > out of habit anyways.. im sure it can easily be changed however > > > Tom > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: Lingus0169 aol.com Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 19:07:19 EDT Subject: Re: Clutch must be down to start yes you can disable the clutch for starting..there is a wire that connects to the clutch, if you disconnect it, you can start your truck with out the clutch in, thats what i did nick ------------------------------ From: Scrangler83 aol.com Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 19:21:15 EDT Subject: Re: Clutch must be down to start i was calling my question stupid..since it really didnt matter.. i was just wondering out of curiosity why you wanted to do this Tom ------------------------------ From: "Larry Kelley" Subject: Re: Clutch must be down to start Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 18:28:08 -0500 Just kidding. LWK ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com> Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 6:21 PM Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Clutch must be down to start > i was calling my question stupid..since it really didnt matter.. i was just > wondering out of curiosity why you wanted to do this > > Tom > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 16:31:28 -0700 From: chuck sanborn Subject: Re: Clutch must be down to start At 07:07 PM 5/14/00 -0400, you wrote: >yes you can disable the clutch for starting.. Something to think about though....a friend of mine would have had his Bronco stolen except the thieves didn't know about the clutch. I'm not saying that all crooks are that dumb but anything that slows them down is a discouragement to them. And that is why my "clutch to start" is still hooked up. Chuck Chuck Sanborn Torrance, CA 86 F150 300 cu in six banger FAX 1-310-822-6815 ------------------------------ From: "Mark Salvetti" Subject: Re: Poor Running Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 21:07:54 -0400 Bob Kennedy, thanks for the tips. Here's where I am now: >If it's the air by pass valve, partial throttle will eliminate the problem. It >opens up the butterflies in the Throttle body. OK, part throttle didn't help. >Sounds a lot like TPS, when the wiper goes out, it can do it just that fast. You >can take a volt meter and look at the smooth voltage drop as the TPS is >actuated. If it stops and then jumps, or doesn't move at all, it is the culprit. I pulled the codes, and got 31, followed by 18 and 63 from the continuous memory. As far as I can tell, the 31 is EGR valve position related, 18 is an erratic tach signal, and 63 is low TPS voltage. With the key on, engine off, the TPS voltage was about 0.8 volts, and I guess it's supposed to be 1.0. I didn't check the voltage at different throttle openings, nor with the engine running. I'll probably check that next. I did check the TPS resistance, and it's within spec both open and closed throttle. I haven't checked the EGR valve sensor yet. After checking the codes, I tried to start again, and it's been running fine since. Can the TPS go out intermittently at first? I cleared the memory codes, and decided to wait and see what happens over the next few days. The other odd (?) thing is that the engine won't run when I try to check the codes with the engine running. Sounds like it's about to start, but then it quits. Any idea what this is telling me? Thanks again. I'll let you know what happens. Mark Salvetti 1986 F150 5.0L ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 18:34:06 -0700 From: Bob Kennedy Subject: Re: Poor Running Mark Salvetti wrote: > OK, part throttle didn't help. Eliminates the TPS as the problem. 1 down. > > > > I pulled the codes, and got 31 EVP out of range, that's the sensor that sits on top of the EGR valve. EGR made need cleaning. Carb cleaner works pretty good. > , followed by 18 Memory code, Loss of tach input, IDM ( Ignition Diagnostics Monitor. A continuous monitor of the ignition input to the EEC-IV control module used to detect intermittent ignition faults) circuit failure, SPOUT circuit grounded. > and 63 from the continuous > memory. TPS below minimum voltage. If you tested it low and high, it's probably got a dead spot in it. It's a wiper assembly, so the transition from low to high should be smooth, not erratic, no flat spots. > As far as I can tell, the 31 is EGR valve position related, 18 is > an erratic tach signal, and 63 is low TPS voltage. With the key on, engine > off, the TPS voltage was about 0.8 volts, and I guess it's supposed to be > 1.0. Actually EEC-IV closed throttle .6 volts, full throttle 4.5 volts. > I didn't check the voltage at different throttle openings, nor with > the engine running. I'll probably check that next. I did check the TPS > resistance, and it's within spec both open and closed throttle. I haven't > checked the EGR valve sensor yet. > > After checking the codes, I tried to start again, and it's been running fine > since. Can the TPS go out intermittently at first? I cleared the memory > codes, and decided to wait and see what happens over the next few days. I'd probably do the same thing. > > > The other odd (?) thing is that the engine won't run when I try to check the > codes with the engine running. Sounds like it's about to start, but then it > quits. Any idea what this is telling me? How are you drawing the codes? > > > Thanks again. I'll let you know what happens. > > Mark Salvetti > 1986 F150 5.0L > > ========================================================== Bob -- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311 86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0" ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 18:54:06 -0700 From: Bob Kennedy Subject: Re: Poor Running Yikes, BIG typo, I meant it eliminate the Air by pass valve! Bob Bob Kennedy wrote: > Mark Salvetti wrote: > > > OK, part throttle didn't help. > > Eliminates the TPS as the problem. 1 down. > > > > > > > > > I pulled the codes, and got 31 > > EVP out of range, that's the sensor that sits on top of the EGR valve. EGR made > need cleaning. Carb cleaner works pretty good. > > > , followed by 18 > > Memory code, Loss of tach input, IDM ( Ignition Diagnostics Monitor. A > continuous monitor of the ignition input to the EEC-IV control module used to > detect intermittent ignition faults) circuit failure, SPOUT circuit grounded. > > > and 63 from the continuous > > memory. > > TPS below minimum voltage. If you tested it low and high, it's probably got a > dead spot in it. It's a wiper assembly, so the transition from low to high > should be smooth, not erratic, no flat spots. > > > As far as I can tell, the 31 is EGR valve position related, 18 is > > an erratic tach signal, and 63 is low TPS voltage. With the key on, engine > > off, the TPS voltage was about 0.8 volts, and I guess it's supposed to be > > 1.0. > > Actually EEC-IV closed throttle .6 volts, full throttle 4.5 volts. > > > I didn't check the voltage at different throttle openings, nor with > > the engine running. I'll probably check that next. I did check the TPS > > resistance, and it's within spec both open and closed throttle. I haven't > > checked the EGR valve sensor yet. > > > > After checking the codes, I tried to start again, and it's been running fine > > since. Can the TPS go out intermittently at first? I cleared the memory > > codes, and decided to wait and see what happens over the next few days. > > I'd probably do the same thing. > > > > > > > The other odd (?) thing is that the engine won't run when I try to check the > > codes with the engine running. Sounds like it's about to start, but then it > > quits. Any idea what this is telling me? > > How are you drawing the codes? > > > > > > > Thanks again. I'll let you know what happens. > > > > Mark Salvetti > > 1986 F150 5.0L > > > > ========================================================== > > Bob > > -- > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311 > 86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0" > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. -- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311 86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0" ------------------------------ From: FLR150 aol.com Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 22:09:12 EDT Subject: Re: Poor Running In a message dated 5/14/00 9:48:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bobkennedy uswest.net writes: < < Actually EEC-IV closed throttle .6 volts, full throttle 4.5 volts. > > Bob, I think I have to disagree with you here. The stock settings on the TPS varied from vehicle to vehicle, due to tolerances. The settings can vary from the .6 up to .98 volts. Most should be set at .90-.97 volts. This will give the optimum throttle response for the best performance and mileage. As long as you don't set the TPS above .98 , this is due to the fact that vibration can cause variances in the readings that the ECM sees. Later, Wayne Foy 94 Flareside SC 1999 Fun Ford Weekend Racing series #2 Top Truck Atlanta GA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 22:10:49 -0400 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: Poor Running FLR150 aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 5/14/00 9:48:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > bobkennedy uswest.net writes: > > < < Actually EEC-IV closed throttle .6 volts, full throttle 4.5 volts. > > > Bob, > I think I have to disagree with you here. The stock settings on the TPS > varied from vehicle to vehicle, due to tolerances. The settings can vary from > the .6 up to .98 volts. Most should be set at .90-.97 volts. This will give > the optimum throttle response for the best performance and mileage. As long > as you don't set the TPS above .98 , this is due to the fact that vibration > can cause variances in the readings that the ECM sees. > Later, I have to agree, never seen any EEC-IV ford factory set with a TPS as low as .6. I agree on the .90 to .98 setting, with the higher .9X settings being better. OX ------------------------------ From: "Jerry Isaacs" Subject: Post-valve-job Problems Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 21:27:16 -0500 I have a 1990 E250 with a 351 engine. Just reassembled after getting heads rebuilt. Several problems. Failed to hook up oil pressure sensor and tried to run engine. Starts immediately but runs rough. Usually idles about 15 seconds and dies abruptly. Restarts fine after about one second of cranking. I don't think there are any vacuum lines to the transmission (automatic with overdrive), but it shifts very hard now. I have everything reinstalled and connected that I know of, except the oil pressure sensor wire. It acts like there's a big vacuum leak, but sometimes it idles nicely for 5 to 15 seconds. Transmission was very smooth before the valve job, but it was only running on 7 cylinders then. BTW, I found the wire for the oil pressure sensor, but I haven't found the sensor yet. Are there any illustrations on the internet, or do I have to pull everything off down to the manifolds and go on a treasure hunt. Any help would be much appreciated. Would the wire off the oil pressure sender cause the computer to shut the system down after a few seconds?? Does all vacuum come off the upper intake manifold? Should it run smoothly to diagnose vacuum leaks if I plug all those connections, or does that screw up the computer and shut it down?? Jerry Isaacs ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 19:56:22 -0700 From: Bob Kennedy Subject: Re: Poor Running Well, I have 2, '86 and '92 302s. Both are at the low end. '86 sees .62, '92 sees .64 and the '86 is all brand new, hasn't been turned over yet. So, I may tweak it a little to see what it does. Bob James Oxley wrote: > FLR150 aol.com wrote: > > > > In a message dated 5/14/00 9:48:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > > bobkennedy uswest.net writes: > > > > < < Actually EEC-IV closed throttle .6 volts, full throttle 4.5 volts. > > > > Bob, > > I think I have to disagree with you here. The stock settings on the TPS > > varied from vehicle to vehicle, due to tolerances. The settings can vary from > > the .6 up to .98 volts. Most should be set at .90-.97 volts. This will give > > the optimum throttle response for the best performance and mileage. As long > > as you don't set the TPS above .98 , this is due to the fact that vibration > > can cause variances in the readings that the ECM sees. > > Later, > > I have to agree, never seen any EEC-IV ford factory set with a TPS as > low as .6. I agree on the .90 to .98 setting, with the higher .9X > settings being better. > > OX > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. -- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311 86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 09:26:38 -0500 From: Larry Schmiedekamp Subject: Re: Pls help diagnose my AOD Or the dinky plastic clip that holds the tv cable to the carb. linkage has broken and the cable has dropped out. If you drive at highway speed it will burn up the trans. Lost 2 that way. They have come out with a brass clip. It seems to have solve the problem. Been there, done that.. Larry At 02:49 PM 5/12/00 -0700, you wrote: >Transmission shift points and fluid pressure are maintained by TV cable. It is the second cable connected to Throttle Body (EFI) and regulates the AOD fluid pressure. >Sounds like the cable is loose. > >Bob > > >BSchinski aol.com wrote:> >> Something occurred very suddenly last evening which I am unable to diagnose. Within a five-minute period, I noticed that it didn't shift into OD on a level road at 55 like it always had before. Then, it wouldn't shift into third. Then second. >> I checked the fluid this morning and it is very pink, very clean and at the right level. I crawled underneath and with my wife's help, verified that the shifter and the rod connected to the throttle are operating correctly. Then I took it to work. Here are the symptoms: >> It will only shift to a higher gear when the rpm's exceed 3000-3300. I cannot force it to shift by letting off the accelerator. I can get it into third gear on the freeway but not OD. The shifts, when they occur, are very quick and firm. >> When I remove pressure on the accelerator, it remains in gear and engine braking slows the vehicle until the revs drop below about 2000 at which point they drop to an idle and the vehicle coasts freely. Any ideas on what may be wrong and what it will take to fix this tranny? Thanks for your help. >> >> ========================================================== >> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with>> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the >> message. > >-- >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311 >86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0" > > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the >message. > > ------------------------------ From: "Dave Resch" Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 10:25:01 -0600 Subject: PartsVoice URL >From: FLR150 aol.com> >PartsVoice? If that is a parts search >service, post the URL or insert a link. >I am always looking for new sources >to search for. Yo Wayne: The URL is www.partsvoice.com. I was turned on to it by a guy at a local dealership parts dept. A lot of dealers use it to search for parts they don't have in stock. The best thing is, if you know the Ford OEM part number, you can search by the number. Most Ford dealers are on their network. Dave R (M-block devotee) ------------------------------ End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #87 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 80-96-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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