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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Sun, 14 May 2000 10:05:52 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 10:05:52 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #86
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80-96-list Digest Fri, 12 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 086
In This Issue:
Re: droopy front end
Re: Poor Running
Re: Pls help diagnose my AOD
Re: Propane question
Re: queation on tire size
Re: droopy front end
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 20:41:18 -0500
Subject: Re: droopy front end
Replace your front springs..
My 93 was did the same thing.. However my passenger side had one broken
ring I found when I changed them out. I didn't notice it before. I used
Performance Rate springs from Oreillys, made my Moog. They were 70bucks
for the set. VERY VERY VERY AWESOM improvent on ride. Very smooth until
the truck begins to go down and it firms right up.. Definete
recommendation for anyone!
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 20:11:11 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: Poor Running
If it's the air by pass valve, partial throttle will eliminate the problem. It
opens up the butterflies in the Throttle body.
Sounds a lot like TPS, when the wiper goes out, it can do it just that fast. You
can take a volt meter and look at the smooth voltage drop as the TPS is
actuated. If it stops and then jumps, or doesn't move at all, it is the culprit.
You can unplug the MAP, if it's the problem, it'll fire right up.
Mark Salvetti wrote:
> I had to leave my 1986 F-150 with the 5.0L EFI engine at work today. When I
> started it at the end of the day, it ran with the usual high idle, but I was
> in a hurry and I started to back out of the space before it dropped. When I
> put it in 1st gear (it's a manual), and started to move forward, it kind of
> bucked. When I lifted and pushed in the clutch, the engine died.
> When I went to restart, the engine ran very poorly, bucking and sputtering,
> then stalling. This happened several times before I gave up and called my
> wife for a ride home.
> Plugs, distr cap, rotor are new, but wires are old. However, since it ran
> perfectly at startup, and it ran fine earlier in the day, I'm thinking it's
> a sensor.
> A couple of times this week, the high idle never dropped as I drove. I had
> to shut the engine off, then on restart it would be fine. I'm thinking it
> could be the TPS or MAP sensor, maybe the idle air bypass.
> I'd appreciate any ideas. I tried searching the archives, but found it very
> frustrating, as I couldn't search this list in particular. Tomorrow I'm
> also going to try pulling the codes with a voltmeter, following the Haynes
> advice and this website http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html.
> In the meantime, any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'd rather not
> spend the weekend in the parking lot.
> Mark Salvetti
> 1986 F150
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"
Subject: Re: Pls help diagnose my AOD
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 00:18:04 -0400
> Something occurred very suddenly last evening which I am unable to
> Within a five-minute period, I noticed that it didn't shift into OD on a
> at 55 like it always had before. Then, it wouldn't shift into third. Then
> It will only shift to a higher gear when the rpm's exceed 3000-3300. I
> force it to shift by letting off the accelerator. I can get it into third
gear on the
> freeway but not OD. The shifts, when they occur, are very quick and firm.
> When I remove pressure on the accelerator, it remains in gear and engine
> slows the vehicle until the revs drop below about 2000 at which point they
> to an idle and the vehicle coasts freely. Any ideas on what may be wrong
> what it will take to fix this tranny?
I am unfamiliar with the AOD, but if it is built anything like the C4, FMX
or C6, this
sounds like you might have a malfunctioning vacuum modulator on the
They are cheap ($7 to $12) and easy to replace, but in some cases, several
modulators are used for the same transmission type (I think there were 4 or
ones for the C4.) so be ready to take the tag number to the parts store.
Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 20:45:08 +1000
From: les williams
Subject: Re: Propane question
Wow, Tom, that's a double barrel question !! I'm not a good example of
economical driving, and so don't take too much notice of fuel consumption
as such, but around the 4.5 k to the litre, and I'm using LPG only, not a
dual fuel set-up. I am aware of Effies doing better. The other two problems
are, I am using a 351 cleveland, can LPG tell the difference ?, down here
in OZ we don't have much in the way of 'high altitude' driving conditions,
and why do you have to advance the timing to lose 10% of what ? fuel
economy or performance ?
Phred Said - 'My [altitude ?] performance loss is about the
same as it is for normal gasoline usage. In other words, when I experienced
a loss of power using propane, switching over to gasoline did little if any
to improve the oommpphh factor.'
That quote kind of answers the whole arguement. My first hand experience
with LPG, over several vehicles now, tells me the same thing. If you have a
noticeable power loss, then something is wrong. The throw away line by a
lot if installers that the loss is 30% is an excuse to cover a cheap/bad
install. The only difference is in OZ there is no real good argument to use
a dual system in a carby based engine. Cut the crap and go all LPG.
If you want the Max in LPG performance then take an example out of AK
Miller's experiences and install turbocharging with LPG and you will be
playing with up to 700+ hp for Pikes Peak driving, and still near zero
pollution. Or the turbocharged 210 hp at the wheels, rotary engine truck
we have down here. That should cut the mountains down to size!! ;-))
Having just converted another carby based 302 clevo powered Fairlane to LPG
only use, using the M&M mixer. The new name for the old OHG kit. I have
reworked the dizzy, and reduced the timing advance curve, in line with LPG
requirments. I have more torque down low, consistant with LPG use, and
probably lost a bit at the top end - exceeding 5000+ rpm so I'm way past
the torque band of the engine anyway. No real big deal in real world
Phred didn't mention the improved down low end torque which I see as a real
bonus in the trucks, if it wasn't there, then the number of tow trucks
operating on LPG would not be on OZ roads.
... still having fun in a Ford, F100 351 cleveland on LPG, water/ethanol
injection, and MSD 6al to 'ignite' this brew ..... & not a single fuel pump
in sight to clap out ....
Lost in the land of OZ
Tom Wiggins wrote:
> Question for you guys running propane; What kind of mileage you getting
> from those 351W? Do you lose 10% when you advance the timing? How do
> they perform at high alttitudes?
> Tom Wiggins
> Valley Center, Ks.
From: Lingus0169 aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 17:58:59 EDT
Subject: Re: queation on tire size
i own an 85 f150 4x4 xl with a 351w in it, i am going to modify the 351
greatly this summer, to about 400hp, and i was wondering if 35" or larger
tires will fit on my truck, right now i have 31x10.5R15, does anyone know the
largest tire i can fit (without lifting or cutting the fenders out)? i dont
care about the turning radius, any tire that's larger than the 31's, are 12.5
width, thankx for the info in advance
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 10:05:14 -0500
Subject: Re: droopy front end
> I am in a dilema. My 96 F150 sits lower on the passenger side front than
> it does on the driver
> side front. I have checked the clearance between both front wheels and the
> fender well. The
> Passenger side sits apr. 1 inch lower than the driver side. The cab line
> up well with the bed on
> both sides and all of the cab mounts are in good shape. I am hopeing that
> one of you might have an
> idea on what the problem may be.
Assuming both fr tires are the same size(don't assume...check
w/measuring tape) and no wreak damage, check frame height at
the big bolt that retains the coil spring at the bottom...its ~1 1/8-1
1/4" I believe. Do this on level surface. If that measurement is dang
close then theres only 1 conclusion...
Its rare but sometimes springs just take a different "set" over time.
IOWs the pass side has weakened more in comparison to the
driver's side. A thorough check of this would be to remove both fr
springs and have a fr end shop check for compressed spring height
at different loads. Hardly anybody goes through this trouble and
some fr end shops will tell you their "not set up for that kind of
The fix: some fr end shops sell "shims" or spacers that are
installed at the bottom of the coil spring mount. Most are made out
of alum and can be cut to desired height.
I've used these things several times on Ford p/u's to level out the
truck from that damned raked look you get from most p/u's.
End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #86
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