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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Fri, 12 May 2000 20:04:07 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 20:04:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #85
Precedence: bulk

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80-96-list Digest Thu, 11 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 085

In This Issue:
Front Brake Grinding Problem on F-150
Re: Fuel pump replacement...88 F-150
Re: Fuel pump replacement...88 F-150
droopy front end
intro/fuel pump question
Pls help diagnose my AOD
Re: Propane question
Re: 81 Bronco Australian Odometer Miles or Kilometres
Re: 81 Bronco Australian Odometer Miles or
Diesel truck part needed
Re: Diesel truck part needed
Re: Pls help diagnose my AOD
Poor Running

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 20:17:44 -0600
From: Charles Biggs flash.net>
Subject: Front Brake Grinding Problem on F-150

I thought I had posted this before but I guess it got lost in
cyberspace. My 1990 F-150 developed a grinding sound in the front
brakes soon after replacing the pads. I pulled the wheels and the only
thing I could figure was the outside pads were not real tight (the
stickum didn't hold too well) so I rebonded both outside pads with
silicone seal. That seemed to take care of the problem. Now a few
weeks it has developed again and I checked the pads and they are still
well stuck this time. The caliper retaining pins have not worked lose
so I am at a loss what might cause the grinding sound. LOTS of surface
material left on all front pads. Any one experienced this problem
before?

TIA for any help from the list.

Chuck Biggs



------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 21:43:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel pump replacement...88 F-150

In a message dated 5/11/00 2:52:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, steve avdec.com
writes:

<< 1/ What's the easiest way to remove the rear tank??
>>
Remove the whole bed. There are 4 or 6 bolts holding the bed on, and 4 bolts
on the rear bumper. Unbolt the bed, and loosen the 2 top bolts and pull the 2
bottom bolts on the bumper, that way you can tilt the bumper down and slide
the bed off the back. That way you can get to BOTH tanks and not have to
empty or drop either one.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 21:52:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel pump replacement...88 F-150

In a message dated 5/11/00 6:03:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
slammerdeltanet.com writes:

<< Ah HA!!! You just discovered a new use for my cherry picker for me.. :-)
I was going to sell it as I doubt if I will have much need for it and do need
the extra room in the garage. But....if it can be put to use, such as
lifting
the bed off the truck, well then, I can't very well get rid of it.....can I
? >>

Chuck,
Where do you live? I will come take that cherry picker right off your hands
for you if you are getting rid of it.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 05:15:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul Rozell yahoo.com>
Subject: droopy front end

Hi All,
I am in a dilema. My 96 F150 sits lower on the passenger side front than it does on the driver
side front. I have checked the clearance between both front wheels and the fender well. The
Passenger side sits apr. 1 inch lower than the driver side. The cab line up well with the bed on
both sides and all of the cab mounts are in good shape. I am hopeing that one of you might have an
idea on what the problem may be.

Thanks in advance,

Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6
96 F150 5.0 SC



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------------------------------

Subject: intro/fuel pump question
From: craig n eggerman juno.com>
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 10:33:53 EDT

Is this an in tank pump?
Yes this is an in tank pump. It is not the entire sending unit. See NAPA
part P74067. You have to remove the old pump and sock filter and install
the new one on the sending unit assembly.
Craig
Eggermanjuno.com
Casper,Wyoming
O|||||O

________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: BSchinskiaol.com
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 12:57:14 EDT
Subject: Pls help diagnose my AOD

The AOD in my '85 Bronco has always performed flawlessly since I got it nine years ago. I've changed the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles, most recently about 3,000 miles ago. It has always shifted very firmly, with no signs of slipping or slow shifting.
Something occurred very suddenly last evening which I am unable to diagnose. Within a five-minute period, I noticed that it didn't shift into OD on a level road at 55 like it always had before. Then, it wouldn't shift into third. Then second.
I checked the fluid this morning and it is very pink, very clean and at the right level. I crawled underneath and with my wife's help, verified that the shifter and the rod connected to the throttle are operating correctly. Then I took it to work. Here are the symptoms:
It will only shift to a higher gear when the rpm's exceed 3000-3300. I cannot force it to shift by letting off the accelerator. I can get it into third gear on the freeway but not OD. The shifts, when they occur, are very quick and firm.
When I remove pressure on the accelerator, it remains in gear and engine braking slows the vehicle until the revs drop below about 2000 at which point they drop to an idle and the vehicle coasts freely. Any ideas on what may be wrong and what it will take to fix this tranny? Thanks for your help.


------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: Re: Propane question
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 12:13:05 -0600



Tom asked:
Question for you guys running propane; What kind of mileage you getting
from those 351W? Do you lose 10% when you advance the timing? How do
they perform at high alttitudes?

Tom Wiggins
Valley Center, Ks.

At best calculate for a 10 to 15% loss in mileage and performance. This is
considering you have a good quality conversion on a well tuned and
maintained engine. I define this as a conversion that includes;

a closed loop (feedback) system,
enclosed air filter with fresh air intake,
soldered electrical connections,
modified timing curve when using propane,
proper electronics to maintain true OEM diagnostics,
fuel injectors and fuel pump are OFF when using propane,
Ford inertia switch is included in propane system operation,
regulator and mixer are mounted in efficient manner to enhance performance,
regularly schedule for check & maintenance of propane components
pre & post (LP & gasoline) conversion emissions tests.

The above is a list (I might of forgotten something?) that when adhered to
would provide the operator of the vehicle equal performance when using
propane under most conditions. The above is applicable for a vehicle that
would have the ability to use either gasoline or propane at the will of the
operator (and pocket book).
If one deviates from the above list, count on a noticable loss of
performance and mileage, which is where the majority of conversions in the
US stand, thus the negative view and lack of credibility the industry has.
I live at 3500~4000 foot elevation and often drive up to the Santa Fe area
where +7000 foot elevations are the norm. My performance loss is about the
same as it is for normal gasoline usage. In other words, when I experienced
a loss of power using propane, switching over to gasoline did little if any
to improve the oommpphh factor.
Email me directly if you need more help.

Phred,kd5aqb
1995 F-150 4X4 propane or gasoline fed 5.0L, 5 speed with NICE Bilstein
shocks!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 05:57:24 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: 81 Bronco Australian Odometer Miles or Kilometres

Hi John,

Is your Bronco a local assembled Oz version, or a private imported RHD or a conversion ?
Is the 351 a cleveland or winsdor ? My best guess is a cleveland with a thermoquad 4 BBL, of course our USA bro's usually
don't believe that it's possible combo.
The speedo head odometer will have 6 number rollers if it's MPH, and 7 if its KPH. Don't shoot me if I'm wrong but it's an
observation I have made. The answer is not in the usual work shop manuals etc.
Also I'm no maths expert, all calculations are subject to protest -
180 / 40 = 4.5 K's per Ltr - sounds about right to me.
If it was 180 miles /1.6 = 288 k's / 40 = 7.2 K's per Ltr - quite increadible ....
I'm leaving someone else to work this out to Miles Per US Gallons and then Miles Per Imperial Gallons.;-))

Interested in an LPG conversion? Hmmm ???
It isn't by coincidence that so many Effies use LPG in OZ. Each and every time you fill up with petrol, just remind yourself
that you need only pay less than half this metered amount, if it were LPG. ;-))

.... but I'm still having fun in a Ford ....

regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ




John Watson wrote:

> All,
>
> Does anyone know if the Australian Bronco's imported in 81 had the odometers in miles, although the speedo was in km/h ?
>
> I have just purchased one and filled the long range tank and it tells me I have used 40+ Litres for 180 km 's or miles.
>
> I just thought it seemed a bit excessive consumption for a 351 Auto ???
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 13:28:14 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: 81 Bronco Australian Odometer Miles or

At 05:57 AM 5/11/00 +1000, you wrote:

>I'm leaving someone else to work this out to Miles Per US Gallons

I did the math on that yesterday and it came out to somewhere in the
20 MPG range....not too shabby. A lot better than my 64 Falcon at
8 city 11 hwy :-)
Chuck

Chuck Sanborn FCA# 07175
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint, 289 w/351W heads, etc
86 F150 300 cu in six banger (Hers)



------------------------------

From: "Dave Resch" sybase.com>
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 14:39:48 -0600
Subject: Diesel truck part needed

Fellow FTEs:

I am looking for a bracket that holds down the radiator overflow tank on a
'83-'86 (maybe other years, too) diesel pickup. The Ford part number is
E3TZ-8C062-B. The part is now obsolete, and for the first time in my many many
searches, PartsVoice has turned up no stocking dealers. If you have one you
want to get rid of, let me know.

I need this for my dual-battery project on my 1980 F250. Unfortunately, when I
scavenged all the other auxiliary battery brackets from a 1984 diesel pickup a
few years ago, I neglected to get this item.

I'd prefer to find the OEM part, but if I can't find one for a reasonable price,
I'll just make up a bracket from some 14-guage galvanized steel stock.

Thanks for your help.

Dave R (M-block devotee)



------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 16:43:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Diesel truck part needed

Dave,
PartsVoice? If that is a parts search service, post the URL or insert a link.
I am always looking for new sources to search for.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 14:49:22 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Pls help diagnose my AOD

Transmission shift points and fluid pressure are maintained by TV cable. It is the second cable connected to Throttle Body (EFI) and regulates the AOD fluid pressure.
Sounds like the cable is loose.

Bob


BSchinskiaol.com wrote:

> The AOD in my '85 Bronco has always performed flawlessly since I got it nine years ago. I've changed the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles, most recently about 3,000 miles ago. It has always shifted very firmly, with no signs of slipping or slow shifting.
> Something occurred very suddenly last evening which I am unable to diagnose. Within a five-minute period, I noticed that it didn't shift into OD on a level road at 55 like it always had before. Then, it wouldn't shift into third. Then second.
> I checked the fluid this morning and it is very pink, very clean and at the right level. I crawled underneath and with my wife's help, verified that the shifter and the rod connected to the throttle are operating correctly. Then I took it to work. Here are the symptoms:
> It will only shift to a higher gear when the rpm's exceed 3000-3300. I cannot force it to shift by letting off the accelerator. I can get it into third gear on the freeway but not OD. The shifts, when they occur, are very quick and firm.
> When I remove pressure on the accelerator, it remains in gear and engine braking slows the vehicle until the revs drop below about 2000 at which point they drop to an idle and the vehicle coasts freely. Any ideas on what may be wrong and what it will take to fix this tranny? Thanks for your help.
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

From: "Mark Salvetti" mediaone.net>
Subject: Poor Running
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 21:08:57 -0400

I had to leave my 1986 F-150 with the 5.0L EFI engine at work today. When I
started it at the end of the day, it ran with the usual high idle, but I was
in a hurry and I started to back out of the space before it dropped. When I
put it in 1st gear (it's a manual), and started to move forward, it kind of
bucked. When I lifted and pushed in the clutch, the engine died.

When I went to restart, the engine ran very poorly, bucking and sputtering,
then stalling. This happened several times before I gave up and called my
wife for a ride home.

Plugs, distr cap, rotor are new, but wires are old. However, since it ran
perfectly at startup, and it ran fine earlier in the day, I'm thinking it's
a sensor.

A couple of times this week, the high idle never dropped as I drove. I had
to shut the engine off, then on restart it would be fine. I'm thinking it
could be the TPS or MAP sensor, maybe the idle air bypass.

I'd appreciate any ideas. I tried searching the archives, but found it very
frustrating, as I couldn't search this list in particular. Tomorrow I'm
also going to try pulling the codes with a voltmeter, following the Haynes
advice and this website http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html.

In the meantime, any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'd rather not
spend the weekend in the parking lot.

Thanks!

Mark Salvetti
1986 F150


------------------------------

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