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Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Mon, 08 May 2000 08:05:49 -0400 (EDT) Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 08:05:49 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #81 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Sun, 07 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 081 In This Issue: Coil problem Re: Coil problem EFI 460 restrictor plates 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd Re: 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd Re: 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd Re: 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd Re: 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd Re: Popping Noise Re: Coil problem Re: Shift lever adjustment Re: Shift lever adjustment Re: Shift lever adjustment Re: Popping Noise Re: 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd Re: Shift lever adjustment ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Duane Brosky" Subject: Coil problem Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 11:19:22 -0400 I have a 300-6 84 F-150 and I suspect the coil may be weak although there are no codes to verify this, other than a code indicating a rich mixture during the KOER test. I have changed most of what is on this engine and rebuilt the carb. Wires, plugs, cap and rotor are OK. EGR New, Air diverter valve and check valves are new. Timing at 10 degrees with SPOUT disconnected. Compression Ok and the idle quality is not bad, al;though is does miss from time to time. the engine is backfiring alot, especially when decelerating in gear. The choke is open fully and works properly. My mileage is not too good anymore, I used to get 15-18 now I am luck if I get 12. I am considering a better coil than stock since stock coils are probably just as expensive. I am afraid to get the emissions tested because I am certain it is going to fail. The brown deposits in the exhaust pipe tell a tale. Before I give up on this one and sell it off at best offer would a coil solve any problems?/ Duane Brosky ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 08:43:04 -0700 From: chuck sanborn Subject: Re: Coil problem At 11:19 AM 5/7/00 -0400, you wrote: >, other than a code indicating a rich mixture >during the KOER test. >the engine is backfiring alot, >My mileage is not too good anymore, >I used to get 15-18 now I am luck if I get 12 Duane, I'm not sure but before I bought anything I would do a vacuum test and a leak down test. Almost sounds as if you have a valve problem. Chuck ------------------------------ From: WoodStck45 aol.com Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 12:31:07 EDT Subject: EFI 460 restrictor plates About two or three posts ago i seen you guys were talking about cutting out the little plastic restrictor plates in your intake hoses. Well, about 3 month ago i done that. I noticed zero difference, but a bunch of noise, not a good sound, but an annoying noise. And 2 months after i done that the truck misses on start up. When you start it it revs up to 1500 or a little less for about 2 seconds then starts missing really bad for about 15 seconds, then clears itself out. I don't know why it waited this long to act up, but it did. So figurtively speaking DON'T CUT THEM OUT!!!!!!!! ------------------------------ From: WoodStck45 aol.com Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 12:37:47 EDT Subject: 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd Guys I am getting ready to purchase a new, but used truck. I am trying to get a 95 to 97 F250 ex. cab, long bed 4X4. It doesn't matter to me whether its has a 460 or PSD but i am concerned about the type of tranny to get. I know all about the E40D's. I even have had the pleasure of replacing two of them. One behind a 460 and one behind a 94 IDI diesel. I know Ford recommends the Auto over the Manual for towing but, doesn't it seem more practical to get a manual so it won't go out? I don't see too many trucks out there that have 460's or PSD's with 5 spd's behind them. Is the 5 spd crappy or something? I just don't want to but a truck with an E40D and have to replace it. Do any of you guys own a similiar truck with similiar motor & tranny setup? ------------------------------ From: PSales264 aol.com Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 12:57:14 EDT Subject: Re: 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd Mine is an OLD 85 naturally aspired 6.9 but I have the 4spd. I won't own an auto. Ford recommends auto because they think most people can't drive standard. (Americans can't shift for themselves) The bad thing about auto is IF you have problems,ie. bad diesel fuel, it is not towable to start. Even if -30deg a tow will eventually start the truck. Just my little penny's worth. PHIL ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 17:16:42 -0700 From: Jason Derra Subject: Re: 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd I recently bought another Powerstroke. It is a '96 F250 4x4 ext cab with the automatic. In looking for a pickup, I also found that there weren't too many 5 speed equipped (which I would have preferred) trucks out there for sale. But, there were literally hundreds of auto equipped for sale. My only thought is that they are happy with the performance of the manual and aren't eager to trade them in. I had a '96 F350 4x4 with the Diesel and a 5 speed and lost the tranny after only 75,000 miles of normal (for a truck like this 80% commuter, 20% towing or hauling) driving, so I personally don't think that they have an advantage over the auto. I think Ford has made big strides in getting the E4OD to be reliable and tough enough to live behind a powerful, torque producing engine since the earlier, trouble prone versions. I have had mine for a couple of months now and I am very happy with the performance both around town and under heavy towing conditions. I am looking into the Banks Trans Command to help lengthen the life some more. Jason WoodStck45 aol.com wrote: > Guys > > I am getting ready to purchase a new, but used truck. I am trying to get a > 95 to 97 F250 ex. cab, long bed 4X4. It doesn't matter to me whether its has > a 460 or PSD but i am concerned about the type of tranny to get. I know all > about the E40D's. I even have had the pleasure of replacing two of them. > One behind a 460 and one behind a 94 IDI diesel. I know Ford recommends the > Auto over the Manual for towing but, doesn't it seem more practical to get a > manual so it won't go out? I don't see too many trucks out there that have > 460's or PSD's with 5 spd's behind them. Is the 5 spd crappy or something? > I just don't want to but a truck with an E40D and have to replace it. Do any > of you guys own a similiar truck with similiar motor & tranny setup? > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 17:20:05 -0700 From: Jason Derra Subject: Re: 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd If you have bad fuel, or glow plug problems, trying to tow start it isn't going to make any difference in the world, no matter what the temp is. It would be like trying to start a gas engine with no spark by pulling it. Jason PSales264 aol.com wrote: > Mine is an OLD 85 naturally aspired 6.9 but I have the 4spd. I won't own an > auto. Ford recommends auto because they think most people can't drive > standard. > (Americans can't shift for themselves) The bad thing about auto is IF you > have problems,ie. bad diesel fuel, it is not towable to start. Even if -30deg > a tow will eventually start the truck. Just my little penny's worth. PHIL > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: PSales264 aol.com Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 21:57:57 EDT Subject: Re: 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd Glow plugs make diesels start easier. They aren't necessary. and towing a truck that is cold will get it started where a battery and starter will be long gone. I've done it over and over with big trucks that do not use glow plugs. and by bad fuel I meant also in the cold. Towing is also better than using ether, some small diesels Ford, INT, GMC will vapor lock on that, not so much Cummins or Int. PHIL ------------------------------ From: Radconpro aol.com Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 21:58:08 EDT Subject: Re: Popping Noise I hope someone out there can help me with this problem. When braking from moderate speeds to come to a stop I get a popping noise from somewhere in the front end. I especially notice it when making a turn. Any help would be appreciated. Daniel M. Spicuzza ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 20:57:18 -0500 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: Coil problem At 07-05-00 10:19, you wrote: >I have a 300-6 84 F-150 and I suspect the coil may be weak although there >are no codes to verify this, other than a code indicating a rich mixture >during the KOER test. Sounds like rich mixture to me, too, with backfiring and all. I do not think it is you coil (but what do you know about the ignition module on the truck?). > I have changed most of what is on this engine and rebuilt the carb. Wires, >plugs, cap and rotor are OK. EGR New, Air diverter valve and check valves >are new. Timing at 10 degrees with SPOUT disconnected. Compression Ok and >the idle quality is not bad, al;though is does miss from time to time. When you say "wires, plugs, cap and rotor are OK", do you mean they are NEW, or you have looked at them and think they are OK? This is important, because you have unburned fuel going out the tailpipe big time and you need good ignition to burn it. Did this come on all of a sudden or gradually? Did it run OK after all the work you list above, or run poorly before and STILL runs poorly now? This is important. At the risk of insulting you, how confident are you in the carb rebuild job you did? Sounds like the carb is pouring too much fuel in there. Which carb is on the '84? (I have an '80.) Did you follow the adjustemnt procedures that came with the carb rebuild kit, or from the '84 factory shop manual? These kits are designed to cover a broad range of years and applicaitons and don't always give you the best adjustment procedures. Did you skip over anything in the procedure that you thought was probably not important? > the engine is backfiring alot, especially when decelerating in gear. The >choke is open fully and works properly. My mileage is not too good anymore, >I used to get 15-18 now I am luck if I get 12. I am considering a better >coil than stock since stock coils are probably just as expensive. Save your money, it's not the coil. >I am afraid to get the emissions tested because I am certain it is going to >fail. The brown deposits in the exhaust pipe tell a tale. Brown, not black? Excess fuel should give you black, sooty deposits in the tailpipe. > Before I give up on this one and sell it off at best offer would a coil >solve any problems?/ Don't give up on it, Duane! This is not that tough. Just continue checking stuff and let the people on the list help you figure it out. Jim Cannon Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 20:59:57 -0500 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: Shift lever adjustment Wow, I didn't even know they still SOLD 3-on-the-tree in 1986! At 06-05-00 22:01, you wrote: >Has anyone with "three on the tree" ever done an adjustment >or replacement of the shift lever or collar? The shop manual is >not very clear/descriptive and I cannot tell what has to come off >other than the steeing wheel and then somehow, the collar that >hold the shift lever. Jim Cannon Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 19:11:27 -0700 From: chuck sanborn Subject: Re: Shift lever adjustment At 08:59 PM 5/7/00 -0500, you wrote: >Wow, I didn't even know they still SOLD 3-on-the-tree in 1986! Heheh, judging by the response from this list they didn't sell very many of them..... :-| By the way, the shifting got so sloppy I have totally lost 1st and reverse. The floor shifter I was going to put in today, that was supposed to fit this application did not make allowances for the speedometer cable so right now I have only 2nd and 3rd. And the wife to hope out when reverse is called for...she pulls up on the rear lever :-) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 19:19:16 -0700 From: chuck sanborn Subject: Re: Shift lever adjustment At 08:59 PM 5/7/00 -0500, you wrote: >Wow, I didn't even know they still SOLD 3-on-the-tree in 1986! Heheh, judging by the response from this list they didn't sell very many of them..... :-| ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 21:32:38 -0500 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: Popping Noise At 07-05-00 20:58, you wrote: >I hope someone out there can help me with this problem. When braking from >moderate speeds to come to a stop I get a popping noise from somewhere in the >front end. I especially notice it when making a turn. Any help would be >appreciated. 1. Check your radius arm bushings. Not easy to tell if they are worn. Have a good front-end shop do it. 2. Check all the rivets in the front cross-member of the frame. Tap on each one with a small hammer one at a time and you will quickly notice the difference between a tight one and a loose one. 3. Check all you front caliper mounting hardware to make sure it is tight. Jim Cannon Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 22:26:35 -0700 From: Jason Derra Subject: Re: 460 and PSD: E40D or 5spd Unless a glow plug equipped engine is warm, it will not start without a preheating aid. They are very necessary on a IH 6.9 or 7.3 or other IDI engines(even the PSD DI engine needs them). Diesel engines that don't use glow plugs (CAT, Cummins, Detroit) are different from the light truck variants because they have different combustion chamber designs that build up heat much quicker (and inject fuel directly into the cylinders) than a pre-chamber head design therefore will start in most conditions with very few engine revolutions. Around here, if the fuel is jelled to the point that the engine will not start, the only way to get them running is to heat the fuel tanks enough to get the engine running. And then letting the warm return fuel to keep the fuel in the tanks from jelling. You can vapor lock any Diesel engine if you use too much ether as a starting aid. They are all affected, from light trucks on up to the large engines. Our shop pickup (84 F250, 4x4 6.9) has had non working glow plugs for almost 2 years now. A 3-4 second blast of ether into the grille intake starts it every time. Whether it's 70 or 30 below. We could tow this thing around the shop 20 times and it still wouldn't start without ether or functioning glow plugs, by design. Jason PSales264 aol.com wrote: > Glow plugs make diesels start easier. They aren't necessary. and towing a > truck that is cold will get it started where a battery and starter will be > long gone. I've done it over and over with big trucks that do not use glow > plugs. and by bad fuel I meant also in the cold. Towing is also better than > using ether, some small diesels Ford, INT, GMC will vapor lock on that, not > so much Cummins or Int. PHIL > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: berninghausen2 juno.com Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 05:52:15 -0700 Subject: Re: Shift lever adjustment Email me offline and I'll try to tell you how to make an adapter to solve the speedo cable problem--it's a booger, all right! Bill in Portland On Sun, 07 May 2000 19:11:27 -0700 chuck sanborn writes: > > Heheh, judging by the response from this list they didn't sell > very many of them..... :-| > By the way, the shifting got so sloppy I have totally lost 1st > and reverse. The floor shifter I was going to put in today, that > was supposed to fit this application did not make allowances for > the speedometer cable so right now I have only 2nd and 3rd. > And the wife to hope out when reverse is called for...she pulls up > on the rear lever :-).... 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