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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Mon, 01 May 2000 10:39:16 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Mon, 01 May 2000 10:39:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server
To: 80-96-list digest users
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #75
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80-96-list Digest Sun, 30 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 075
In This Issue:
Ignition switch (my point of view)
Re: Owner's Manual
ADMIN: Web site updates
More on ignition switch... RE: Re: ignition switch t
From: "Stephen Hansen"
Subject: Ignition switch (my point of view)
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 10:04:38 -0500
All of you with bad ignition switches; don't get too carried away with excessive maintenance until you have eliminated the basics. My ignition was also getting stiff at about 80,000 miles. The ford ignition switch itself (the key unit) is famous for being cheap. The cost is around 15 dollars and can be replaced with a few tools. I pulled off the cover around the column and using the old key and a small screwdriver removed the old switch assembly; then installed the new one.
I now have two separate keys so I can lock the door and leave the engine running in the cold weather.
Anyway... good luck; Steve
From: "Terry & Carolyn Welshans"
Subject: Re: Owner's Manual
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 11:15:15 -0500
Jim Cross wrote:
>Many thanks to those who helped on my ignition switch problem
>I have had a Ford shop manual for my 89 F350 on order for 9 months
>The dealer now advises it is out of print.
>Is there another manual available that is as complete as the OEM one?
There may be one available at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.helmsinc.com . They had an 89 F250
owner's manual that the dealer said was unavailable for $15.00, and the 7.3L
diesel supplement (back ordered, but available in 4-6 weeks) for only $3.00.
Give them a call like I did if you do not see what you want on the on-line
On the original topic of ignition switch problems, the "sticky" part of your
switch is the lock tumbler assembly, located under the steering wheel. I
have fixed sticky tumbler assemblies by shooting WD-40 in the key slot and
wiggling the key until it moves freely, then spraying liquid graphite lube.
This is a little messy if you don't take the wheel off first, but it can be
If the tumbler is OK, the problem is the "rack and pinion" gear set. The
key lock turns the pinion gear (part of the tumbler assembly) which pull on
the rack gear, which pulls a rod that actuates the contact portion of the
switch (the recall replaces this part only) mounted under the dash on the
top of the steering column. If the "rack and pinion" are sticky, you need
to take the wheel off to lean and lube it.
From: "mike madden"
Subject: Shop Manuals
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 13:19:04 -0700
Try ebay; I just sold a shop manual for a car I no longer own there for
----- Original Message -----
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server
To: 80-96-list digest users
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 6:10 AM
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #74
> Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 11:21:14 -0700
> From: Jim Cross
> Subject: Owner's Manual
> Many thanks to those who helped on my ignition switch problem
> I have had a Ford shop manual for my 89 F350 on order for 9 months
> The dealer now advises it is out of print.
> Is there another manual available that is as complete as the OEM one?
From: BanksRVA aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 20:37:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch
The clutch on my 82 F100 300 4 speed w/granny is slipping. So, I am figuring
it is replacement time. Only problem is, I have never done a clutch. Is a
Chilton's manual enough to get me through or do any of you clutch veterans
have some advice for me?
I have a guy out here who can put it in for $100 bucks but I figure I should
learn how to do it myself. Lastly, how long should it take? (So I can double
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 20:43:09 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Web site updates
The following additions have been made to the web site:
1950 F3, 1964 F100 4x4, 1965 F250 Flareside, 1976 F250 Camper Special
A Look At the Platinum Gasaver (similar to the Snake Oil article)
Classic Truck and Custom Classic Truck Magazine article indexes updated.
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
From: PSales264 aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 21:19:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch
Give him the $100. With the understanding that you can help. It will be worth
the money and the time. Then do the Job yourself the next time> PHIL
From: 2insane excite.com
Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 06:30:08 -0700 (PDT)
I'm hitting 76,000 with my 89 AOD and i'm having no troubles. before my dad
used it as a farm truck also hauling VERY heavy things with it. i'm
feeling/hearing slight problems but i figure i have another 20,000 more
miles at least left in it before i'll NEED to do anything with it.
just my .02
Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite
From: Greg Carter
Subject: More on ignition switch... RE: Re: ignition switch t
Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 09:42:16 -0400
Well after pulling my steering wheel I found the problem with my ignition
But just so every one understands, I'll attempt to describe the ignition
There are 3 main parts to the ignition switch assembly. The key/cylinder,
rod/linkage, and electric/mechanical switch. When you turn the key the rod
pushed down and engages a contact in the ignition switch that is located
down on the steering column (about 12" down from the wheel), when you
release the key a spring in the switch pushes back on the rod and returns
the key/cylinder assembly back to the run position.
From reading other posts it appears that the ignition switch is the part
that had the recall. While it is unlikely that the dealer could screw up
installing this piece. They could misalign the rod so that it does not have
the proper amount of movement. Which is what I think they did in my case.
Which what eventually lead to my problem.
The rod is held centered at the top of the steering column by a bracket that
slides fore and aft as the key is turned. If the rod is not moving freely,
for whatever reason placing extra lateral loads on this bracket, the bracket
may break. Which it did in my case. The bracket is either aluminum or
white metal. I managed to get the two pieces out of the column, only to
find that if I were to repair the bracket it wouldn't fit back in when one
piece, without completely disassembling the steering column. For now I have
put the two pieces back in, jb welded them and will test it out when I get
home tonight. Also going to the dealer to see if I can buy the bracket. If
I can I may take it all apart and replace it.
I took some pictures with my digital camera and hope to have them up tonight
so people can better understand what could go wrong.
You don't want to get to the point where I am, so if yours is hard to turn I
- Look at the key/cylinder. Removing them is easy on the newer trucks.
Just put the key in the run position and push in on the pin just under the
assembly and pull. Go to Ford get a new one, drop it in and try it out. If
no difference take it out and bring it back.
- If above doesn't solve your problem get a steering wheel puller and remove
the wheel (its really easy) and try lubing up the parts.
Entrust Technologies - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.entrust.com
From: DannyF [mailto:fitz011 ev1.net]
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 12:18 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: ignition switch too hard
> Oddly it was after I had the recall work that my switch was hard to
> and the acc position stopped working... Should have brought it back to
> fixed right. I was too busy at the time... that was 2 years ago (but
> 10k km). Hopefully I'll get it right...
Sheesh. Thats exactly the reason I'm still nervous about getting the
recalled switch replaced in my '90 F150. I've kept the recall notice
right here for 2 years and am still afraid the dealer will screw
something up when replacing.
From: "Moe Gendron"
Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 10:37:36 -0500
Subject: What's this?
I pulled this off another list, anybody know anything
about it? Jim Cannon, whadda think?
> Hey Ray and Guys , dont spend the $30 dollars a pound for freon
12 , the
> replacement for it is r 409a(brown drum)it is about $6 a pound
and is a
> direct replacement for 12 , i have been using it in refrigeration
> since 97 . The only catch is it only comes in 30 pound drums . I
> it with 12 and had no problems , it is a blend . The refrigeration
> want to sell you 12 because they make more money , dont
recommend it in
> cars recommend it in all types of refrigeration , freezers, dry
> equip, all 12 type units , no difference i can come up with , will
> in my 944 after tomorrow afternoon , it was hot here today , 78o
> Try to find some one who does ref and pay them to charge your
> charges the same way as a ref in Your kitchen does .(: This all
> the heading of things Forane doesn't want You to know , that is the
> manufacturer of it . I first found out about it from The EPA , I am
> certified , got notification from them about it . doesn't hurt the OZZ.
> to be charged as a liquid , i put it in in short bursts , jug upside
> and only use 80% of the normal charge , leave some bubbles in
> glass . Small tempt probe stuck in the dash vents should read
about 46o at
> about 2200 R P M depending on elevation and outside temp at
> charging . This can be purchased at any ref supply , but may
have to have
> someone get it for U ,who has license .
End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #75
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