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80-96-list Digest Fri, 28 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 073

In This Issue:
Re: AODs
Re: Speaking of AODs...
Re: Ignition Switch Too Hard
Re: Speaking of AODs...
Re: Ignition Switch Too Hard
Re: Ignition switch too hard
Re: Ignition switch too hard
Oil Pan Leak
Re: Oil Pan Leak
Leaking front tank solutions
FROnt gauges
Re: air conditioning gas
Re: Oil Pan Leak
Re: Oil Pan Leak
Re: AODs
AOD reliability
Tailgate-1989 F150 XLT/Lariat
Re: Tailgate-1989 F150 XLT/Lariat
Re: Tailgate-1989 F150 XLT/Lariat
Re: air conditioning gas
Re: AOD reliability

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: johnhfleming juno.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 06:11:07 -0700
Subject: Re: AODs

I have an '86 with 208,000 on the clock and have had no problems with the
trans or the engine for that matter(aside from alt's, water pumps and the
standard stuff). I had it serviced at about 165,000 and the original fill
hole plug was still in the pan.

John

________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: "Ferino, Chris" caremark.com>
Subject: Re: Speaking of AODs...
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 09:21:29 -0500

"Why would you want to get rid of the E4OD? It is built stronger than a
AOD."

No question of that. The problem is the mass-air conversion. I want to
build up the engine part of the engine-transmission combination, and most of
the straightforward engine mods like cams/heads/etc. are all better served
by a mass-air-equipped engine as opposed to the speed density setup that I
currently have. I have absolutely no complaints with my E4OD
performance-wise - it's served me well since I bought my '93 about 18 months
and 30K or so miles ago. It just doesn't fit well into a mass-air
conversion, and I don't want to go with a third party mass air conversion
setup or extra computer to drive just the transmission. (I would like some
crisper shifting, too - and I'll certainly get that going to an AOD over the
E4OD - I've never experienced such a "slushy" slushbox!).

With the prohibitively high costs of rebuilding E4ODs, I'm thinking that I
should be able to sell my fully functional E4OD for a good chunk of the cost
of a performance-built (aka reasonably bullet-proof) AOD to substitute in
its place, so cost shouldn't be much of an issue either.

Maybe what I should do is get the engine/trans combination out of a
Lightning and drop it into my Bronco - IIRC, it's the same short wheelbase
frame except for the 2wd/4wd aspect. Any thoughts on that one?

--chris

------------------------------

From: "Latham, Wayne M" mcdermott.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition Switch Too Hard
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 11:34:00 -0500

Jim,
I feel your pain. I went thru this for years, and it was always worse in
cold
weather. I replaced lockset and ignition switch to no avail. After
breaking
the 2nd lockset, I pulled the steering wheel and found that the plunger rod
between the lockset and the ignition switch was gummy and sticky (up at the
top
in the lockset region). After spraying some good lubricant on the plunger
in
the vicinity of the lockset, it is smooth as silk.
Wayne in VA

------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 12:36:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Speaking of AODs...

In a message dated 4/28/00 10:26:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
CFerino caremark.com writes:

<< Maybe what I should do is get the engine/trans combination out of a
Lightning and drop it into my Bronco - IIRC, it's the same short wheelbase
frame except for the 2wd/4wd aspect. Any thoughts on that one?
>>
Chris,
A guy on the Lightning List has just completed that task. The only thing he
did was keep the stock dual throttle bodied intake. Email me off list and
I'll put you in touch with him.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA

------------------------------

From: Greg Carter entrust.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition Switch Too Hard
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 13:17:57 -0400

I have run into the same problem. I would do like Wayne says and fix it now
before your stuck out on the road like I was. One moment the truck started,
the next it wouldn't because the rod wouldn't engage the ignition switch.
Traced it to slop in the rod. The ignition switch is fine, key cylinder
turns fine but the rod is now really sloppy, adjusting the position of the
ignition switch didn't help. Before the rod got sloppy it was hard to
turn. So fixing it now is probably good preventive maintenance. I am
taking the wheel off tonight to fix the rod.

If you do find yourself stuck and the you don't hear the relay click, leave
the key in the run position and take a screwdriver and short the + relay
leads together to start the truck (lots o sparks :) ). It was nice to see
that the starting circuit on my '91 is the exact same as my '68 and the same
tricks applied to it. You can also try putting the wheel in the full down
position if it is tilt to try to get the rod to engage the switch.

Bye.

Greg Carter
Entrust Technologies - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.entrust.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/buildup/dana60.html


-----Original Message-----
From: Latham, Wayne M [mailto:Wayne.M.Lathammcdermott.com]
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 12:34 PM
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Ignition Switch Too Hard


Jim,
I feel your pain. I went thru this for years, and it was always worse in
cold weather. I replaced lockset and ignition switch to no avail. After
breaking the 2nd lockset, I pulled the steering wheel and found that the
plunger rod between the lockset and the ignition switch was gummy and sticky
(up at the top in the lockset region). After spraying some good lubricant
on the plunger in the vicinity of the lockset, it is smooth as silk.
Wayne in VA

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 13:21:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Ignition switch too hard

> My 89 F350 ignition switch is getting really hard to turn
> to start the truck
> Almost painful
> Has anyone had this and is there a fix?

You might me eligible for this common recall. Its Ford recall #
95S28. Its free from the dealer where they replace the switch due
to a possible fire hazard in the contact points.

You can call a Ford dealer w/your VIN # to verify.

Danny
fitz011ev1.net

------------------------------

From: Greg Carter entrust.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition switch too hard
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 14:46:56 -0400

Oddly it was after I had the recall work that my switch was hard to turn,
and the acc position stopped working... Should have brought it back to get
fixed right. I was too busy at the time... that was 2 years ago (but only
10k km). Hopefully I'll get it right...

Greg Carter
Entrust Technologies - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.entrust.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/buildup/dana60.html


-----Original Message-----
From: DannyF [mailto:fitz011ev1.net]
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 2:22 PM
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Ignition switch too hard


> My 89 F350 ignition switch is getting really hard to turn
> to start the truck
> Almost painful
> Has anyone had this and is there a fix?

You might me eligible for this common recall. Its Ford recall #
95S28. Its free from the dealer where they replace the switch due
to a possible fire hazard in the contact points.

You can call a Ford dealer w/your VIN # to verify.

------------------------------

From: "Navarra, Anthony" pepsi.com>
Subject: Oil Pan Leak
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 15:38:58 -0400

Dear FTE

Thanks to the list members for their assistance on replacing the parking
brake cables on my 1989 F250/351W 4x4. Much appreciated.

Coming out of work one day I couldn't help but notice a significant amount
of oil under my truck. I
saw that the oil was leaking from where a hole rusted through the side of
the oil pan. I need a temporary "quick fix". I figure that there is an epoxy
compound I could use for the short term.
Any suggestions?

TIA
A.J. Navarra


------------------------------

From: ACMERCGaol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 17:33:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Leak

In a message dated 4/28/00 3:41:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
anthony.navarrapepsi.com writes:

<< Coming out of work one day I couldn't help but notice a significant amount
of oil under my truck. I
saw that the oil was leaking from where a hole rusted through the side of
the oil pan. I need a temporary "quick fix". I figure that there is an epoxy
compound I could use for the short term.
Any suggestions? >>
propoxy... most hardware stores should have it probally some auto parts
stores also... or have it towed home or to a welding shop and weld a plate
to the afected portion of the pan.

JOe
Lost in Jersey
92 F150 Nite

------------------------------

From: ACMERCGaol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 17:50:23 EDT
Subject: Leaking front tank solutions

well upon taking the tank out I found that the plastic cover that goes on the
front of the tank had been housing some dirt and Jersey clay, which
in turn houses moisture, which creates rust. So, rather than replace the
tank I got it all clean and used POR-15 Gas tank sealer to do the inside and
POR-15 rust preventative paint on the outside, which is supposedly crack and
scratch resistant. I won't put the plastic cover back on, mainly because I
don't want a repeat of what happened before. So that's the deal, it looks
great, we'll see what happens when I put it in.

JOe
Lost in jersey
92 Nite

------------------------------

From: ACMERCGaol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 17:53:35 EDT
Subject: FROnt gauges

where is the fuel sender? I Have the tank and front pump still out and my
front gauge didn't work. where is the sender for the fuel gauge? is it on
the pump? is it the wires connected to the float arm? I want to try and get
this done before I get this all back together. thanks....

Joe
lost in jersey
92 nite

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 08:11:19 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: air conditioning gas

Hi Jim,

Yes, I'm quite well aware of some, but maybe not all the tricky stuff that is
going on with refrigerants, and I'm trying to be careful. Thats why your input is
so important to me.
This is claimed to useable in all refrigeration systems, from domestic
fridge/freezers thru to coolrooms and auto air con, and transport systems. Ok.
the full marketing name is 'SOLPOWER SP34e'. I believe it is of Japanese origin.
It is compatible with mineral oil, Poly Alpha Oletin & Poly Estar Oils. The only
change required changing from R-12 is to replace the reciever drier to R-134 type
- no real big deal anyway.
It is compatible with all materials such as neoprene, viton, natural rubber,
silicone, nylon, PTFE and most grades of nitrited rubber. It is not a controlled
product.
Whilst I said it was about half the price of R-12, it's still twice the price of
R-134a, that's $500 aud for 13.5Kg's of SP34e, so if you have already changed to
R-134a, I see no point in changing to SP34e, assuming all things being equal.
Reading the 1 page blurb that came from the distrubtor, who does have some credo
in the refrigeration industry down here, make the comparisons to R-12.
Under physical properties, it is claimed to be non flammable, will not burn.
Hopefully that means that there is not too much propane /butane present. They are
claiming higher efficiencies and lower operating pressures, similar to R-12.
Boiling point 1 atmosphere (C) -26.1 for SP34e & -29.8 for R-12.
What is R-134a ? I thought it was about -22 or so ...

I have three vehicles still using R-12, so if this product works as advertised, I
think it would still be good value or have I missed something.

BTW: In two states down here it is still legal to use LPG/Butane as a refrigerant
in transport units, and you wonder why I keep on the move ?? ....
Of course some unkind people might suggest that driving around in a truck with 200
ltrs LPG fuel tanks, what's the big deal about an extra pound being used as
refrigerant ?? a lot .....It's not what it is that scary, it's where it goes,
that's a problem.

.. but I'm still having fun in a Ford, on LPG, and water, and ethanol. Slice &
dice then blend till clear .... apply to problem areas three times a day, not to
be used internally ...

regards

Les
Still lost, in the Land of OZ


Jim Cannon wrote:

> Les-
> You need to try to find out the composition of the refrigerant is. It might
> be marketed in the US under a different name. Sounds like someone
> intentially named it similar to R-134a so as to confuse people and make
> them think it was similar. You need to be careful. Some of the homebrew
> freon replacements have a lot of propane and butane in them.
>
> I'm not saying you can not or should not use propane and butane in your A/C
> system, just do it knowingly and with an understanding of any additional
> risks you might be taking on.
>
> Jim Cannon
> Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
> '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
> '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
>


------------------------------

From: Scrangler83aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 19:32:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Leak

JB weld.. found in most auto shops works great.. you will have to drain the
oil and clean the area of course.. but that should hold you for a very long
time.. it worked for me!!

Tom

------------------------------

From: Scrangler83aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 19:34:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Leak

sorry.. not auto shops, more like autozone, western auto, or local parts
store..

Tom

------------------------------

From: LGRanchaol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 20:59:58 EDT
Subject: Re: AODs

Obviously not every AOD dies an early death. I believe that you have a good
one. Keep it.

------------------------------

From: BSchinskiaol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 21:02:33 EDT
Subject: AOD reliability

<< Most AOD self distruct at about 70,000 miles. You rebuild them and then
they
quit again at 140,000. >>

I've got 232,000 on my '85 Bronco with an AOD behind a 302. Never been
touched except for fluid/filter changes every 30,000 miles. The original
owner who I bought it from in '91 had ordered everything HD with the 4.11
posi rear, suspension option, trailer towing etc. Always shifted very snappy,
still does.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 18:42:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Henry Senatore excite.com>
Subject: Tailgate-1989 F150 XLT/Lariat

Not too long ago I was fortunate enough to find a cherry 89 described in the
subject. I was parked at a high school lot for an activity at night
involving a friends son and when I returned to the truck the tailgate had
been lifted. It's quite a shock to put it in reverse, look over your
shoulder and sense that you have a much better view of the road than you had
before! Checking with local yards I have not turned up much - in a few
weeks I did find one with a cracked/broken-off red reflector and dented
aluminum that I rejected. Since the truck is in good shape I'm inclined to
try to find a decent replacement and just get it painted appropriately. But
with the apparent scarcity I'm wondering if I should take what I can find at
this point - any ideas?



Henry
Mt Airy, MD






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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 18:56:01 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Tailgate-1989 F150 XLT/Lariat

At 06:42 PM 4/28/00 -0700, you wrote:
>But
>with the apparent scarcity I'm wondering if I should take what I can find at
>this point - any ideas?

Take what you can find if the price is right, then keep on lookin'. At least
you will have one for sure and *maybe* find another in good shape but....
not very many parts in good shape for a pickem-up. In fact, not many trucks
at all in the bone yards in my neck-o-the-woods.
Chuck


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 20:54:54 -0500
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: Tailgate-1989 F150 XLT/Lariat

Check out this web site:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://copartfinder.com/

I was pretty impressed with their search engine. good pictures of subject
vehicles. Photos would probably take a while to show up on regulat modem.
I have a cable modem and it is QUICK!

At 28-04-00 20:42, you wrote:
>Not too long ago I was fortunate enough to find a cherry 89 described in the
>subject. I was parked at a high school lot for an activity at night
>involving a friends son and when I returned to the truck the tailgate had
>been lifted.

>Checking with local yards I have not turned up much - in a few
>weeks I did find one with a cracked/broken-off red reflector and dented
>aluminum that I rejected. Since the truck is in good shape I'm inclined to
>try to find a decent replacement and just get it painted appropriately. But
>with the apparent scarcity I'm wondering if I should take what I can find at
>this point - any ideas?

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 21:17:10 -0500
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: air conditioning gas

Les-
A quick search on "SOLPOWER SP34e" kicked out 9 web pages where it is
mentioned. The following one is a press release (which they wrote):
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ens.lycos.com/e-wire/march/mar039902.html

Here's the company's site, but it is also very self-serving:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.solpower.com/

Some refrigeration professionals are skeptical:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/alternative/messages/1208.html

One post says this gas is about 98.5% R134a. If it is, I don't think it
will carry the oil like they claim and it will burn up your compressor. In
fact, it is hard to justify the price if it is essentially all R134a. I
have become skeptical of most of these new "drop in replacements". I do
not think such a thing exists.
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


------------------------------

From: LGRanchaol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 08:58:27 EDT
Subject: Re: AOD reliability

With a few people saying that their AODs have been good. I am interested in
trying to gather some data. What is the year of the AOD in your truck and did
it die or run past 70K?

------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #73
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