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80-96-list Digest Wed, 26 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 071

In This Issue:
Re: Aftermarket A/C
run-only power source
Re: run-only power source
Re: Aftermarket A/C
Re: run-only power source
Re: Whoops Sorry Chuck, I goofed
Re: 981F1504by4,300cu I6,SWB,4speed
Re: run-only power source
Re: run-only power source
Re: Aftermarket A/C
The Warranty Group

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 22:10:13 -0700
From: Marv & Marge Miller lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket A/C

Bill Garett uab.campuscwix.net> wrote, in part:
> So there really isn't
> anything unusual or wrong with it having a heater hose clamp. My wife's dead '90 F-150 and her
> '96 F-250 and my Explorer are all factory air. Be thankful you don't have the Ford spring
> connectors. I don't know what engineering geniuses were behind those, but they ought to blame
> them for ozone depletion.

OK. I'm gonna tighten everything just a "schmidgen", including the hose clamp, and
connect
the gauges. If there's anything still in the system, I'll add a pound. If there's not,
I'll pull a vaccuum. If it holds, I'll put in a couple and see. This looks to be a
rotory
type compressor. Do they have shaft seals that fail?

-Marv-

------------------------------

From: kb9odg.mark juno.com
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 09:34:28 -0500
Subject: run-only power source

Good Day!

I'm finally getting to the point of wiring up my compressor system on my
truck and would like some help. I was wondering where would be a good
point to pull a run-only source for power? I really don't think I should
be able to have the clutch engaged even when the engine isn't running.
So where would be a good place to pull enough current to handle an AC
clutch?

Thanks for all help I can get. This list is wonderful.

73-

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed
cherry bomb muffler, wireless compressor system...

P.S. I'd kinda like it if the source was inside the cab, that was I can
run it through a master switch first. Thanks!
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 10:56:19 -0400
From: Martin Horne optonline.net>
Subject: Re: run-only power source

At 09:34 AM 4/26/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Good Day!

Why don't you use a 12v relay? That way you can take it off anything on the
Accessory circuit inside the cab. Don't know if you can do a "real" running
test. At least, not without some electronics. If you look at the battery
voltage and only allow the compressor on when it is charging .....?

Just a thought.

>
>I'm finally getting to the point of wiring up my compressor system on my
>truck and would like some help. I was wondering where would be a good
>point to pull a run-only source for power? I really don't think I should
>be able to have the clutch engaged even when the engine isn't running.
>So where would be a good place to pull enough current to handle an AC
>clutch?
>
>Thanks for all help I can get. This list is wonderful.
>
>73-
>
>- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
>'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
>tires ...
>'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed
> cherry bomb muffler, wireless compressor system...
>
>P.S. I'd kinda like it if the source was inside the cab, that was I can
>run it through a master switch first. Thanks!

Martin Horne
'86 Bronco
Long Island, NY

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 09:56:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Aftermarket A/C

> > May not be just that hose, but a hose clamp is ok. A/C hose clamps had a tang on 'em to
> > space how far back from the end to clamp it, but it was still a "heater hose clamp"
> > .Sometimes you can tell where a leak is 'cause the oil collects dirt/dust. If the hose
> > is wet or oily at the connection or in the middle it could be leaking there. May be
> > worth it to pay for a leak test given the cost of r-12.
>
> Bill, The clamp isn't the A/C type, with the "guage" tab, but a regular
> heater-hose clamp,
> which appears tight enough. And this may just be what the ARA guys had in
> the shop the
> day they did the install. No evidence of leaking, anywhere, but you never
> know.
> My original question was: Anybody else got this setup? Has yours got a
> hose clamp, too?
> I really want to compare mine to other ARA add-ons. Has your truck got
> this setup?
> Since the low-cutoff has been activated, I'm sure I could get the thing
> running by adding
> a pound, but I don't have a vampire if I need it, and I sure don't want to
> waste ANY.

It was pretty common to use the AC hose clamps for low side
connections for aftermkt AC. Using a heater hose clamp was a
quick and dirty method of getting the customer on his way. They
almost *always* leak later.

If you want this leak source to be fixed the hose end will have to
be crimped. This can be done w/the hose still attached. A shop
w/an electronic sniffer would charge very little to check that one
spot and then recheck after crimping. Since your down on pressure
anyway, taking off the clamp might still provide enough of a seal to
keep most of the freon while crimping is done.

Oily residue detection and soap/water tests will usually find sizable
leaks but small leaks will be missed

Danny
fitz011 ev1.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 08:04:58 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: run-only power source

At 09:34 AM 4/26/00 -0500, you wrote:
>So where would be a good place to pull enough current to handle an AC
>clutch

Run a toggle switch off of the main power lead? More of a question than
a suggestion as I am "electrical impaired" ....
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1986 F150 six banger (Hers)
1964 Falcon Sprint


------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 10:10:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Whoops Sorry Chuck, I goofed

> Hi Chuck, and other members of the list, sorry but I was not paying
> attention as to who wrote what, that happens when you only get 3 hours
> of
> sleep...Can't wait for the school semester to be over with, and at this
> stage I don't care anymore...
>
> Has anyone seen my UPS delivery person? Still have not gotten my shocks
> yet...maybe today when I get home, yeah, that's it, they'll be there
> waiting
> for me, and I'll install them and fall asleep under the truck when I do
> the
> back ones...maybe the spousal unit will just throw a blanket over me.

Phred, if your shocks are in the same boat as some of my UPS
deliveries, you'll find them rerouted back to the hub and delivered in
7-9 business days. These guys are getting worse by the year.

Danny
fitz011 ev1.net

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 10:29:14 -0500
Subject: Re: 981F1504by4,300cu I6,SWB,4speed

> This weekend I spent more time under my truck (mine now for 1 week)and
> saw
> two plastic rectangular containers on the passenger side , towards the
> front
> , below the radiator level , one above the other.Pipelines from these
> lead
> to the carburetor / manifold assembly.The containers are heavy or
> securely
> attached because I could not remove them with my Sunday afternoon
> effort.
>
> What are these for , can I remove them or should I look at maintaining
> them.My basic 4X2 F100 300cu F100 (assembled in South Africa)do not have
> these fitted.
>
> With my checking out the vehicle I noticed that the truck pulls away
> strongly but 'tires' from around 60 mph , is this normal or
> characteristic
> of the engine.

Possible restricted fuel filter. Cheap to replace.

Ignition timing/advance should be checked.

Even something as a new air filter might help a little.

As Jim mentioned, possible restricted exhaust but do above
first...cheap checks.

And yes, the 300 is well known for low end torque but not a real
mover at speed.
Danny
fitz011 ev1.net

------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 11:56:58 EDT
Subject: Re: run-only power source


<< I really don't think I should
be able to have the clutch engaged even when the engine isn't running.
So where would be a good place to pull enough current to handle an AC
clutch? >>

Most A/C's I've seen was capable of locking up the clutch w/o the engine
running. The only way I can think of to accomplish the run-only lock up is
to use the electric choke circuit (which is only powered when the alternator
is turning) and add a 30 amp relay. Run a line from the battery as the
power-in, tee off the choke wire and use it on the trigger terminal and
switch the whole thing with the grounding side of the relay with some sort of
a switch on the dash. BUT, what about your hi & low pressure switches? You
are using them, right? Then you can just run them in series on the grounding
circuit between the relay and the dash switch. Good luck and have fun!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 07:30:33 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: run-only power source

Hi Mark

I'm just a little confused as to what you are trying to accomplish. Do you
want the compressor to only operate :-|
A: with the ignition key on accessories or run, -
B: only when the engine is actually running ?

Option A, should be relatively easy to find the correct circuit.

If it's B: then you have the option of using a holley fuel pump oil pressure
switch. probably a sledgehammer approach, but it's reliable. no oil pressure,
no go.
A real sneaky way, well I think so anyway, involves a Propane Run Relay,
available at any propane installer or supplies. This relay has a green led in
the case that indicates when it's active. It also has a 2.5 sec delay after
deactivation. Your trigger for this relay is the coil HT lead, by induction.
No ignition spark, no go.
I have just gone thru the process of accomplishing a similar thing for the
water/alcohol injection system on a non-blown installation.

That should be enough to get you started. If you need more details, then feel
free to ask.

regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

kb9odg.markjuno.com wrote:

> Good Day!
>
> I'm finally getting to the point of wiring up my compressor system on my
> truck and would like some help. I was wondering where would be a good
> point to pull a run-only source for power? I really don't think I should
> be able to have the clutch engaged even when the engine isn't running.
> So where would be a good place to pull enough current to handle an AC
> clutch?
>
> Thanks for all help I can get. This list is wonderful.
>
> 73-
>
> - Mark Reimers KB9ODG
> '66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
> tires ...
> '87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed
> cherry bomb muffler, wireless compressor system...
>
> P.S. I'd kinda like it if the source was inside the cab, that was I can
> run it through a master switch first. Thanks!


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 19:39:49 -0500
From: a&b uab.campuscwix.net>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket A/C

Well don't tell my '67 about those leaky clamps 'cause it's been holding freon real well after
5-6 years, in contrast to my swell Explorer crimp-ons and those #!! spring connectors which
leaked after 3
bg

DannyF wrote:

> It was pretty common to use the AC hose clamps for low side
> connections for aftermkt AC. Using a heater hose clamp was a
> quick and dirty method of getting the customer on his way. They
> almost *always* leak later.
>
> If you want this leak source to be fixed the hose end will have to
> be crimped. This can be done w/the hose still attached. A shop
> w/an electronic sniffer would charge very little to check that one
> spot and then recheck after crimping. Since your down on pressure
> anyway, taking off the clamp might still provide enough of a seal to
> keep most of the freon while crimping is done.
>
> Oily residue detection and soap/water tests will usually find sizable
> leaks but small leaks will be missed
>
> Danny
> fitz011ev1.net
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.


------------------------------

From: "Justen Noakes" texas.net>
Subject: The Warranty Group
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 21:25:08 -0500

Fellow Fordsters,

I received a mailing today regarding an extended, unlimited mileage warranty
that I could purchase for my '95 F150, as long as it has under 100K miles
(which
mine is).

The warranty has two options. Option 1 covers (a) all internally lubricated
engine
parts, (b) all non-lubricated engine parts, (c) additional engine components
and
(d) all internally lubricated transmission parts. Option 2 covers all the
above plus
electrical, suspension, instrumentation, brake components, fuel systems and
body components.

The cost for option 1 is $108.00 a year and $158.50 for option 2. It also
includes
free towing and car rental coverage.

This sounds too good to be true...and I know what you guys say about things
that
sound too good to be true. But as I read an increasing number of postings
regarding
trucks in the '92/'93 year range, I can't help but to believe that I am
bound to have
some problems soon. Fortunately all I have had to replace so far is a
starter, battery and
radius arm bushing (plus maintenance items).

Has anybody subscribed to or used this service and what is your experience?
What questions should I ask if I call the 1-800 # (authorized repair
stations,
deductible, repair cost ceiling, etc...?) Any other plans I should look at?

For a $100 or so bucks a year, this sounds like a pretty good deal. Heck
that's
what I spend two times at the pump these days (including a 12 pack).

What ya' think?

Thanks,

Justen
jrnoakestexas.net




------------------------------

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