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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Thu, 27 Apr 2000 00:52:09 -0400 (EDT) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 00:52:09 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #71 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Wed, 26 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 071 In This Issue: Re: Aftermarket A/C run-only power source Re: run-only power source Re: Aftermarket A/C Re: run-only power source Re: Whoops Sorry Chuck, I goofed Re: 981F1504by4,300cu I6,SWB,4speed Re: run-only power source Re: run-only power source Re: Aftermarket A/C The Warranty Group ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 22:10:13 -0700 From: Marv & Marge Miller Subject: Re: Aftermarket A/C Bill Garett > So there really isn't > anything unusual or wrong with it having a heater hose clamp. My wife's dead '90 F-150 and her > '96 F-250 and my Explorer are all factory air. Be thankful you don't have the Ford spring > connectors. I don't know what engineering geniuses were behind those, but they ought to blame > them for ozone depletion. OK. I'm gonna tighten everything just a "schmidgen", including the hose clamp, and connect the gauges. If there's anything still in the system, I'll add a pound. If there's not, I'll pull a vaccuum. If it holds, I'll put in a couple and see. This looks to be a rotory type compressor. Do they have shaft seals that fail? -Marv- ------------------------------ From: kb9odg.mark juno.com Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 09:34:28 -0500 Subject: run-only power source Good Day! I'm finally getting to the point of wiring up my compressor system on my truck and would like some help. I was wondering where would be a good point to pull a run-only source for power? I really don't think I should be able to have the clutch engaged even when the engine isn't running. So where would be a good place to pull enough current to handle an AC clutch? Thanks for all help I can get. This list is wonderful. 73- - Mark Reimers KB9ODG '66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35" tires ... '87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed cherry bomb muffler, wireless compressor system... P.S. I'd kinda like it if the source was inside the cab, that was I can run it through a master switch first. Thanks! ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 10:56:19 -0400 From: Martin Horne Subject: Re: run-only power source At 09:34 AM 4/26/00 -0500, you wrote: >Good Day! Why don't you use a 12v relay? That way you can take it off anything on the Accessory circuit inside the cab. Don't know if you can do a "real" running test. At least, not without some electronics. If you look at the battery voltage and only allow the compressor on when it is charging .....? Just a thought. > >I'm finally getting to the point of wiring up my compressor system on my >truck and would like some help. I was wondering where would be a good >point to pull a run-only source for power? I really don't think I should >be able to have the clutch engaged even when the engine isn't running. >So where would be a good place to pull enough current to handle an AC >clutch? > >Thanks for all help I can get. This list is wonderful. > >73- > >- Mark Reimers KB9ODG >'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35" >tires ... >'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed > cherry bomb muffler, wireless compressor system... > >P.S. I'd kinda like it if the source was inside the cab, that was I can >run it through a master switch first. Thanks! Martin Horne '86 Bronco Long Island, NY ------------------------------ From: "DannyF" Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 09:56:48 -0500 Subject: Re: Aftermarket A/C > > May not be just that hose, but a hose clamp is ok. A/C hose clamps had a tang on 'em to > > space how far back from the end to clamp it, but it was still a "heater hose clamp" > > .Sometimes you can tell where a leak is 'cause the oil collects dirt/dust. If the hose > > is wet or oily at the connection or in the middle it could be leaking there. May be > > worth it to pay for a leak test given the cost of r-12. > > Bill, The clamp isn't the A/C type, with the "guage" tab, but a regular > heater-hose clamp, > which appears tight enough. And this may just be what the ARA guys had in > the shop the > day they did the install. No evidence of leaking, anywhere, but you never > know. > My original question was: Anybody else got this setup? Has yours got a > hose clamp, too? > I really want to compare mine to other ARA add-ons. Has your truck got > this setup? > Since the low-cutoff has been activated, I'm sure I could get the thing > running by adding > a pound, but I don't have a vampire if I need it, and I sure don't want to > waste ANY. It was pretty common to use the AC hose clamps for low side connections for aftermkt AC. Using a heater hose clamp was a quick and dirty method of getting the customer on his way. They almost *always* leak later. If you want this leak source to be fixed the hose end will have to be crimped. This can be done w/the hose still attached. A shop w/an electronic sniffer would charge very little to check that one spot and then recheck after crimping. Since your down on pressure anyway, taking off the clamp might still provide enough of a seal to keep most of the freon while crimping is done. Oily residue detection and soap/water tests will usually find sizable leaks but small leaks will be missed Danny fitz011 ev1.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 08:04:58 -0700 From: Chuck Sanborn Subject: Re: run-only power source At 09:34 AM 4/26/00 -0500, you wrote: >So where would be a good place to pull enough current to handle an AC >clutch Run a toggle switch off of the main power lead? More of a question than a suggestion as I am "electrical impaired" .... Chuck Sanborn Torrance, CA 1986 F150 six banger (Hers) 1964 Falcon Sprint ------------------------------ From: "DannyF" Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 10:10:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Whoops Sorry Chuck, I goofed > Hi Chuck, and other members of the list, sorry but I was not paying > attention as to who wrote what, that happens when you only get 3 hours > of > sleep...Can't wait for the school semester to be over with, and at this > stage I don't care anymore... > > Has anyone seen my UPS delivery person? Still have not gotten my shocks > yet...maybe today when I get home, yeah, that's it, they'll be there > waiting > for me, and I'll install them and fall asleep under the truck when I do > the > back ones...maybe the spousal unit will just throw a blanket over me. Phred, if your shocks are in the same boat as some of my UPS deliveries, you'll find them rerouted back to the hub and delivered in 7-9 business days. These guys are getting worse by the year. Danny fitz011 ev1.net ------------------------------ From: "DannyF" Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 10:29:14 -0500 Subject: Re: 981F1504by4,300cu I6,SWB,4speed > This weekend I spent more time under my truck (mine now for 1 week)and > saw > two plastic rectangular containers on the passenger side , towards the > front > , below the radiator level , one above the other.Pipelines from these > lead > to the carburetor / manifold assembly.The containers are heavy or > securely > attached because I could not remove them with my Sunday afternoon > effort. > > What are these for , can I remove them or should I look at maintaining > them.My basic 4X2 F100 300cu F100 (assembled in South Africa)do not have > these fitted. > > With my checking out the vehicle I noticed that the truck pulls away > strongly but 'tires' from around 60 mph , is this normal or > characteristic > of the engine. Possible restricted fuel filter. Cheap to replace. Ignition timing/advance should be checked. Even something as a new air filter might help a little. As Jim mentioned, possible restricted exhaust but do above first...cheap checks. And yes, the 300 is well known for low end torque but not a real mover at speed. Danny fitz011 ev1.net ------------------------------ From: FULSZBRONC aol.com Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 11:56:58 EDT Subject: Re: run-only power source << I really don't think I should be able to have the clutch engaged even when the engine isn't running. So where would be a good place to pull enough current to handle an AC clutch? >> Most A/C's I've seen was capable of locking up the clutch w/o the engine running. The only way I can think of to accomplish the run-only lock up is to use the electric choke circuit (which is only powered when the alternator is turning) and add a 30 amp relay. Run a line from the battery as the power-in, tee off the choke wire and use it on the trigger terminal and switch the whole thing with the grounding side of the relay with some sort of a switch on the dash. BUT, what about your hi & low pressure switches? You are using them, right? Then you can just run them in series on the grounding circuit between the relay and the dash switch. Good luck and have fun! ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 07:30:33 +1000 From: les williams Subject: Re: run-only power source Hi Mark I'm just a little confused as to what you are trying to accomplish. Do you want the compressor to only operate :-| A: with the ignition key on accessories or run, - B: only when the engine is actually running ? Option A, should be relatively easy to find the correct circuit. If it's B: then you have the option of using a holley fuel pump oil pressure switch. probably a sledgehammer approach, but it's reliable. no oil pressure, no go. A real sneaky way, well I think so anyway, involves a Propane Run Relay, available at any propane installer or supplies. This relay has a green led in the case that indicates when it's active. It also has a 2.5 sec delay after deactivation. Your trigger for this relay is the coil HT lead, by induction. No ignition spark, no go. I have just gone thru the process of accomplishing a similar thing for the water/alcohol injection system on a non-blown installation. That should be enough to get you started. If you need more details, then feel free to ask. regards Les Lost in the Land of OZ kb9odg.mark juno.com wrote:> Good Day! > > I'm finally getting to the point of wiring up my compressor system on my > truck and would like some help. I was wondering where would be a good > point to pull a run-only source for power? I really don't think I should > be able to have the clutch engaged even when the engine isn't running. > So where would be a good place to pull enough current to handle an AC > clutch? > > Thanks for all help I can get. This list is wonderful. > > 73- > > - Mark Reimers KB9ODG > '66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35" > tires ... > '87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed > cherry bomb muffler, wireless compressor system... > > P.S. I'd kinda like it if the source was inside the cab, that was I can > run it through a master switch first. Thanks! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 19:39:49 -0500 From: a&b Subject: Re: Aftermarket A/C Well don't tell my '67 about those leaky clamps 'cause it's been holding freon real well after 5-6 years, in contrast to my swell Explorer crimp-ons and those # !! spring connectors whichleaked after 3 bg DannyF wrote: > It was pretty common to use the AC hose clamps for low side > connections for aftermkt AC. Using a heater hose clamp was a > quick and dirty method of getting the customer on his way. They > almost *always* leak later. > > If you want this leak source to be fixed the hose end will have to > be crimped. This can be done w/the hose still attached. A shop > w/an electronic sniffer would charge very little to check that one > spot and then recheck after crimping. Since your down on pressure > anyway, taking off the clamp might still provide enough of a seal to > keep most of the freon while crimping is done. > > Oily residue detection and soap/water tests will usually find sizable > leaks but small leaks will be missed > > Danny > fitz011 ev1.net> ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: "Justen Noakes" Subject: The Warranty Group Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 21:25:08 -0500 Fellow Fordsters, I received a mailing today regarding an extended, unlimited mileage warranty that I could purchase for my '95 F150, as long as it has under 100K miles (which mine is). The warranty has two options. Option 1 covers (a) all internally lubricated engine parts, (b) all non-lubricated engine parts, (c) additional engine components and (d) all internally lubricated transmission parts. Option 2 covers all the above plus electrical, suspension, instrumentation, brake components, fuel systems and body components. The cost for option 1 is $108.00 a year and $158.50 for option 2. It also includes free towing and car rental coverage. This sounds too good to be true...and I know what you guys say about things that sound too good to be true. But as I read an increasing number of postings regarding trucks in the '92/'93 year range, I can't help but to believe that I am bound to have some problems soon. Fortunately all I have had to replace so far is a starter, battery and radius arm bushing (plus maintenance items). Has anybody subscribed to or used this service and what is your experience? What questions should I ask if I call the 1-800 # (authorized repair stations, deductible, repair cost ceiling, etc...?) Any other plans I should look at? For a $100 or so bucks a year, this sounds like a pretty good deal. Heck that's what I spend two times at the pump these days (including a 12 pack). What ya' think? Thanks, Justen jrnoakes texas.net------------------------------ End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #71 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 80-96-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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