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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Mon, 24 Apr 2000 16:29:00 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 16:29:00 -0400 (EDT)
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80-96-list Digest Sun, 23 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 069

In This Issue:
Re: Brake Sticking
Re: modules and spark
Re: Aftermarket A/C
Re: Brake sticking
ADMIN: Web site updates
body work
Re: Aftermarket A/C
Re: K&N stinks
Re: Body work, etc.
Re: Brakes
Re: Oil Pressure
Re: Question about rain
Re: Brakes


From: JDavis1277
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 17:41:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Sticking


Had the same problem with my 90 F-250HD 4X2. After replacing the caliper
twice along with pads, finally replaced the hoses which cured the problem.
Was later told by Ford mech that front hoses should be replaced about every
five years. My second five is coming up in a couple of months. While you're
at it, you may as well flush and install fresh fluid, too.

Hope this helps.



From: "Serian">
Subject: Re: modules and spark
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 17:50:54 -0400

> In the 92-96 F150s the TFI module is mounted to the inside
> fenderwall on the drivers side of the truck

I'll have to defer here ... I don't ever drive anything that new,
so I must admit to my lack of knowing how these "modern"
units are put together. Though ... the gentleman in question
indicated that it is a '87, so it is likely that the TFI module
would be found on the dist. .. if its a TFI system. If its a
DuraSpark II or III, the module would be a square box
(about 4" x 4") mounted on the fender with 2 (or sometimes
there is 3, if the unit has an altitude compensator) wiring
harnesses coming out of it.

> To test if you're getting spark from the coil, pull the coil wire from
> the distributor and install a small bolt or something similar into the
> boot to extend the wire (homemade spark tester)

or just use a spare spark plug, and either wire or press the threaded
part to a good piece of engine ground :-)


From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr.">
Subject: Re: Aftermarket A/C
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 22:14:54 -0400


Easy way to check for leaks around A/C connectors is with soapy water,
providing that there's enough pressure in the system to keep the compressor
turned out. May be a little late for it now, but if you have it recharged
and feel that there's still a slow leak, use a little soapy water and look
for the bubbles.



From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr.">
Subject: Re: Brake sticking
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 22:21:07 -0400


I'd put money on the bad caliper. The pieces that allow the caliper to
"float" get gummed up and stick. A temporary fix is to just grease the
floating mechanism inside the rubber boots. It'll work for maybe 15k miles
before it needs to be re-addressed, and it'll just get worse over time even
with the attention. NAPA has rebuilt calipers for about $55 bucks per
(after returning the core), and they come with new anti-rattle clips and new
Good luck.



Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 23:54:07 -0400
From: Ken Payne>
Subject: ADMIN: Web site updates

The Ford Truck Enthusiasts web site has been updated:

- New top of page banner through-out the site. I think you'll really like it.

- Pictorial additions (marked with a star in the pictorial)
1950 F1
1961 F100
1986 F150 Lariet
1993 Ranger Splash - V8
1997 F150

- New articles added:
Ford 9 inch rear end rebuild by James Oxley

- Link additions
Xtreme Motorsports added to Monster trucks
South Central Illinois Ford Club added to clubs
Bloodog added to late model section of links
Flatratetech added to Ford trucks section of links

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


From: "Duane Brosky">
Subject: body work
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 00:13:02 -0400

I would be careful with that estimate. Maaco gave me a 1100 dollar estimate
for my POS rusty truck and I had the feeling that it could go higher. My
friend had his 66 T-bird in to them for 2800 initially and it ended up being
4700 by the time they were done.
I think the labor cost is hidden here, they may trump it up after they have
your truck in pieces. Make them aware that you are not going to allow a
doubling of the price and ask them " are you really sure that it can be done
for this amount?" after that is made clear to them.

Personally, I would just run the thing and put the money into keeping the
truck running good.

Duane Brosky
84 F-150 300-6


Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 22:38:23 -0700
From: Marv & Marge Miller>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket A/C

Bill Garrett> wrote, in part:

> May not be just that hose, but a hose clamp is ok. A/C hose clamps had a tang on 'em to
> space how far back from the end to clamp it, but it was still a "heater hose clamp"
> .Sometimes you can tell where a leak is 'cause the oil collects dirt/dust. If the hose
> is wet or oily at the connection or in the middle it could be leaking there. May be
> worth it to pay for a leak test given the cost of r-12.

Bill, The clamp isn't the A/C type, with the "guage" tab, but a regular heater-hose clamp,
which appears tight enough. And this may just be what the ARA guys had in the shop the
day they did the install. No evidence of leaking, anywhere, but you never know.
My original question was: Anybody else got this setup? Has yours got a hose clamp, too?
I really want to compare mine to other ARA add-ons. Has your truck got this setup?
Since the low-cutoff has been activated, I'm sure I could get the thing running by adding
a pound, but I don't have a vampire if I need it, and I sure don't want to waste ANY.


Subject: Re: K&N stinks
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 00 23:05:13 -0700
From: russ beebe>

Ken said:
>First, with the increase in air flow, you're going to need
>to adjust the idle speed. Might want to adjust the air/fuel
>mixture, ...
I didn't adjust anything yet, but will check that. It ran fine before I
switched filter setups.

and Martin said:
>I think Russ meant that the breather used to fill the OLD filter system with
yes, this is what I meant. there was always a little oil in the air
filter housing next to the outlet of the hose connected to the valve
cover cap.
>That could be caused by blow-by which, since the new installation is now
>venting the block directly to the engine bay would account for the smell. When
>it was filling the filter with oil the offending fumes were heading back into
>the combustion chamber. A compression test may reveal the culprit.
>Seems to make total sense that with a 4bbl something would need adjusting if
>you feed the engine more air.
thanks for sharing your common engine sense!

and Slik said:
>... The vent from the air cleaner is to pump clean air into the crankcase and
the return
>line through the pcv valve routes to the blow-by and fumes back to the intake
>combustion. I changed to an open element filter and replaced my hose to the
air cleaner
>from the valve cover with an open element breather cap on the valve cover.
so there should be air flow _in_ through the valve cover breather cap? It
seems like some air is blown out when I open the throttle from under the
hood with my hand over the breather hole.
>As far as the fumes, when you go to an open element filter, you will tend to
smell any of
>the gas leaks or a rich condition quicker than you would with a closed air
filter system.
I didn't anticipate that this would be the result of an open system.

and Danny said:
>It probably doesn't idle as well cold due to the loss of the heat tube
>from the exh manifold area to the air cleaner snout.
This is correct, it doesn't idle as well after starting cold now. I used
to be able to slip it into drive right after it started, but now it needs
to idle in park for 20-40 secs before it can overcome the resistance of
the cold auto tranny fluid without stalling.

I'll try replacing the PVC and check the carb mix. You guys are a real
gold mine. Thanks for all your advice on air flow.


From: "DannyF">
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 09:02:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Body work, etc.

> I don't know about where u live but around here maaco does a bad job on
> all
> of there cars. I have never seen a good paint job come out of that place.
> they do not repair body work very well. When I see a car that just got
> painted from them, all I see is orange peel and runs. they don't use a
> very
> quality paint either.

First, Maaco is a franchise. Different owners/operators at almost
every location. Results can certainly vary. I've read close to 100
posts throughout the country on Maaco results and it ranges from
poor to very good.

I've personally had 3 paint jobs from Maaco. 2 were reasonably
good and 1 had problems w/the clearcoat but they recleared after I

On the paint, this is where Maaco does not vary. They use Nason
brand paint and thats just a co. owned by DuPont. If you ask them
what brand paint they use they'll tell you DuPont...a selling tactic.
Actually, Nason is the budget end of DuPont.

You can choose synthetic enamel(used car dealers opt for this, acrylic enamel(not too bad and reasonably priced,
maybe 2-4 yr life expectancy), or the polyurethane(most expensive
but usually lasts 3-5 years). Want more gloss? They'll just mix in
some clear to the poly for another $50-100.

The poly will come out glossy w/o the clear but adding clear will
prolong the life of the paint w/reasonable care.


From: Fred Moreno>
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 11:53:10 -0600

Slammer wrote:
GREAT. ITS AN 87 F-150 302 C-6

Phred replies:

Assuming you have a fuel injected engine, it sure sounds like the infamous
electronics gone bad because of too much heat exposure. Have you started
pricing out a TFI-IV module? Yours is mounted on the distributor (heat
sink). They did not start mounting the TFI-IV module on the inner fender
well until '92.


Yeah especially when you can read lips of "other brand" drivers when they
see you in your Ford. Been there done that.

Take care and good luck. Keep us posted.



Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 11:26:02 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn>

At 11:53 AM 4/24/00 -0600, you wrote:
>Slammer wrote:

Uhhhh, Phred...I didn't write that :-|


From: BanksRVA
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 14:55:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Brakes

Quick question,
How tight should the nut that holds on the front rotor of an 82 E350 be?
Thank you,


Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 16:01:46 -0500
From: Jim Cannon>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure

At 21-04-00 13:28, you wrote:
>I have an '89 351 in my '81 F-150 4x4. Just in the last couple of weeks I am
>looking oil pressure under acceleration. It seem sto be most problematic at
>higher RPM's (above 2000). Does anyone have any suggestion on what it might
>be. Oh the motor has about 50,000 miles on it.
>Thank You

Others have reported a partially clogged pickup screen to cause this problem.

Before I pulled that oil pan, I think I would first check the oil presure
sender. It's a pretty cheap part and easy to replace. Could save you a
lot of needless hassle. You might also want to put a mechanical guage on
it (temporarily) as a test of the cheap Ford original indicator
system. (To call them guages is a big overstatement.)

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 16:03:48 -0500
From: Jim Cannon>
Subject: Re: Question about rain

At 21-04-00 22:07, Jarod wrote:
>Hey crew
> Seems like everytime it rains or is very damp. My truck sputters like a
>person with a stutter everytime I step on the gas. I don't mean to offend
>anyone with a stutter it is the best way for me to describe it. Also does it
>when it is idling on these days the engine just doesn't sound right. Anyone
>have any suggestions much thanks

Others mentioned distributor cap/rotor. After that, I'd say replace
ignition wires. Moisture allows them to leak. Buy good ones; not Auto
Zone store brand.

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 17:28:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Brakes

BanksRVA writes:
< < How tight should the nut that holds on the front rotor of an 82 E350 be? > >

Tighten nut to 22-25 ft. lbs. while rotating the rotor in the opposite
direction, then back off the nut 1/8 turn. That will give the hub between
.0001 - .0010 end play. All of this is the factory recommended method.
Wheel bearing adjustment is a controversial subject among mechanics -
professional and shade-tree alike. Never pre-load the bearing unless the....

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