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80-96-list Digest Fri, 21 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 067

In This Issue:
Re: Manual tranny swap
Re: Gear Ratio Question
Re: Static Shock again....
Oil Pressure
Re: gear swap
Re: More Air Bag Light Questions
Re: removing wheel locks
Re: More Air Bag Light Questions
Re: More Air Bag Light Questions
Re: removing wheel locks
Re: Air Bag Trouble Code
Re: removing wheel locks
Re: More Air Bag Light Questions
Body work, etc.
Question about rain
NEED HELP!!!!! MOTOR STOPS RANDOMLY
Re: removing wheel locks
Re: Body work, etc.
Re: Body work, etc.
Re: Gear Ratio Question
Re: Body work, etc.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Re: Manual tranny swap
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 13:32:55 -0400

> The question for the group is how much of a PITA
> would it be to fit a 70's C4 into the F150 that now
> has the Ford 3 speed manual.

You would need to change the steering column and/or
shift linkage, the flywheel (and give it a flex plate),
the radiator (for one that has a transmission cooler)
and add trans cooler lines. It also might be necessary
to change the driveshaft(s).





------------------------------

From: BRIGANDBAR aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 13:40:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Gear Ratio Question

Eric:

Interestingly enough, we have virtually identical vehicles, with the
exception of the limited slip differential. Even changed out to the same
size tires.

Just for comparison, what kind of gas mileage to you get with your Bronco?

Also, I stay at about 1900-2000 rpm at 70 mph indicated [74 mph true
(verified by GPS & police radar)] which is just slightly below the power
band, but it does cause the transmission to "hunt" on hills, etc. I'm not
sure if 3.73 will put you right in the power band as indicated on a number of
charts, but if you do elect to change to that ratio, I'd be interested in
hearing the results. I would suspect that the 4.10s would move you to upper
level of the power range envelope, and adversely affect mpg. if there is much
highway driving involved.

I'm planning to install ARB Air Lockers (front & rear) and had not thought
too much about the gear ratio changeover, but that may be the time to change
them as I think the ARB's will require a changeout of the other differential
components as well. Oddly enough, its not the cost that is holding up the
changeover, its the fact that I haven't been able to find a shop with
experience installing the air lockers in this area.

On a slightly different subject, do you have any problem with tires rubbing
in full lock turns using the 32x11.5's? I seem to notice that there is some
rubbing on the left side in full lock left turns, but no similar problem on
full lock right turns.

Steve

------------------------------

From: "Moe Gendron" ev1.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 12:55:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Static Shock again....

>Hey Danny, once upon a time it got cold and low humidity here.
Memory fades at exactly when, and doubt creeps in as to it ever will
again, but it HAS happened.

I think it was in the early 80's, Dec. 24th., frozen pipes, flooded the
house, I'll never forget it. All my pipes are heavily wrapped now, so I
know it won't freeze for a long time.....:-)

>And OH NO, a confederate flag thing on this list... The people of
South Carolina should decide. Period.

Right Dave. Funny how the media forgets to inform everyone that a
dem. put it there, and besides, slave ships were flying the American
Flag. Wonder if the media will show up in Ark. for Con. flag day? I
think the current prez had quite a stay in Ark. and did nothing about
it. What a Hoot. (I don't live in ark., but I heard they had a Con. flag
day, so I could be misinformed. Correct me if I'm wrong.)

>NOT Jesse Jackson, or Queesy Infoomay(sp) or especially Sheila
"where is
the Camera?" (last name escapes me, but she's a Texas Congress
Person, that
many of us DO NOT LIKE!)

I like the spellin of Queesy Infoomay, LOL!!!!!
Yep, sheila "where is the camera" jackson lee. I think she shoved
jesse out of the way one time, but I really get a kick out of her
statement about "If everyone were forced to study history, they
would find out that there is no American Flag on Mars." Huh??

>We must stop this thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I kinda like knowin somthing about the people I'm talkin too...but it
shouldn't get out of hand. It's like that last bolt that won't go on for
S__T, till you get up, walk off, puff on that cig., and when you get
back it goes right on.

And you engine swappers...(6 to 8) be prepared to crack that
checkbook ALOT if you're going to do it right. I spent way more than
the truck is worth, (5K or 6K) but barring a wreck, I'll never have to
buy another truck.

Later,
Moe
born with nothin, and still have most of it left.
NW Houston, and it's HOT today.
85 F150 95 302HO orig. 300/6, orig. owner.

------------------------------

From: Dom379 aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 14:28:20 EDT
Subject: Oil Pressure

I have an '89 351 in my '81 F-150 4x4. Just in the last couple of weeks I am
looking oil pressure under acceleration. It seem sto be most problematic at
higher RPM's (above 2000). Does anyone have any suggestion on what it might
be. Oh the motor has about 50,000 miles on it.
Thank You
Dominic

------------------------------

From: "Jared Templin" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: gear swap
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 11:47:50 PDT

If you are going to all the work to change the gears anyway you might as
well go with 4.10's especially since you have a pretty decent overdrive
anyway. The switch from 3.55 to 3.73 would not be very significant anyway.
If you go to 4.10 I believe you need a new carrier for the front
differential....this is for anything above 3.73 in the D44. If you are
having the shop do this gear swap anyway they should know about it and you
should be able to get a carrier for a pretty reasonable price. With a 96
model Ford switched over to the EEC-V computer and OBD II diagnostics along
with a mass air EFI system. This system is in response to more government
regulation and is more tempermental/complex to modify/work on.

Jared
1981 Bronco 351M
1994 F250 4X4 SC 460

snip------
I have a '96 Bronco 5.8L with and E40D, 3.55 axle gear ratio, factory
limited-slip rear, and 32X11.5R-15 Tires. The engine turns around 1700 RPM
in
OD at 70 MPH. It is really a slug on any significant grade and I usually
need
pop it into 3rd to avoid lugging. I am considering changing the gear ratio
to
either a 3.73 or 4.10. If anyone has experience or opinions on what the
better
ratio would be I would like to know. I had heard somewhere that going to
the
4.10 required the replacement of additional parts. The rig is a daily
driver
and will infrequently be used to pull a trailer in the 5,000 lb range.

Also - does anyone know where the EEC-IV unit is located in this vehicle?

Eric Larsen
Maple Valley, WA
elarsen khm1.com


________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 14:56:13 -0400
From: flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: More Air Bag Light Questions

My first indication of the problem was the failure of the horn. Then it
started working again. I don't recall if the bag light was flashing
that whole time or not. Yes, the steering wheel will have to come off.
Don't worry about the airbag. It's not difficult to remove. You'll need
a steering wheel puller. You may want to pull the wheel, get to the
clock spring and disconnect and reconnect it to see if it fixes it. If
you have another car, you can then run to the dealer for the
replacement. My dealer had one in stock as I recall. They wanted about
$300 to replace it if memory serves. It's worth it to do it yourself.
The clock spring looks like a circular ribbon cable in plastic. I was
going to try and look for a break and repair it. After getting to it, I
saw it wasn't worth the effort.


Emil



Mark Kaczmarczyk wrote:
>
> Thanks folks for the advice about my Code 32 - question though, if this
> "clock spring" also provides switching for the horn, why does my horn
> continue to function as the code flashes? Is it possible it is a
> connector to the "clock spring" that is the problem? I am pretty good
> mechanically, but my Haynes manual advises abandoning all hope with air
> bag equipped wheels and says to go to the dealer to remove. Does the
> wheel have to come off to replace the clock spring?
>
> --
> Mark Kaczmarczyk
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 14:12:12 -0500
Subject: Re: removing wheel locks
From: Paul M Radecki juno.com>

Les and Chuck posted:

>>Yep....Guess it gives some kind of false "Peace of Mind",
>>kinda like the Club, that can be cut off in about 15 seconds.
>>Chuck

>>>Makes you wonder why you bother to use wheel locking nut systems.
>>>$40 for 4 cheap, but very 'hot' mags. Sux, don't it !! :-((

Two men went for a walk in the jungle. The first man noticed that his
companion was wearing running shoes, and he asked him why. "I am wearing
running shoes", said the second man, "in case we encounter a tiger."
"Fool!", said the first man. "Running shoes will not enable you to
outrun a tiger!" "That is true", said the man with the shoes, "but I
don't have to run faster than the tiger. I only have to run faster than
YOU!"

This is why I believe in security devices such as the Club. I don't have
to defeat the thief, I have merely to convince him that it would be
easier to steal somebody else's truck. Can you guys keep a secret? I
always use my Club, but I rarely bother to lock it. Sometimes a visual
deterrent is enough.

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150
'73 F100
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 16:15:41 EDT
Subject: Re: More Air Bag Light Questions

In a message dated 4/21/00 11:04:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
markk attglobal.net writes:

<< Is it possible it is a
connector to the "clock spring" that is the problem? I am pretty good
mechanically, but my Haynes manual advises abandoning all hope with air
bag equipped wheels and says to go to the dealer to remove. Does the
wheel have to come off to replace the clock spring? >>

Mark,
That just means that the springs impedance is not totally gone, but close to
it. Yes, the wheel has to come off to replace it. The airbag will be
discharged by disconnecting the battery for about a half hour. Then its just
a regular steering wheel pulling exercise.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 17:20:48 -0400
From: Harold Norman att.net>
Subject: Re: More Air Bag Light Questions

Hi-

Here's a posting from another list that gives a short run
down on the process. Word has it that you can do the job
w/o a steering wheel puller... but why. An airbag can be
removed after the built-up charge is gone... ten minutes
or an hour... I cannot recall. It's probably close to the
former.

HTH.

-- HN

----- % cut here % -----
From: Beerknurdaol.com
To: lmbbronco.com

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Clockspring is pretty easy to replace... . first,
remove the airbag from the steering wheel, should
be four 10mm nuts, unplug it, and put it aside. Then
you have to remove the steering wheel, should be just
one bolt, remove it and put it back in a couple of threads,
and then you should be able to pull on the wheel really
hard a few times and it will come off. Then you have to
unplug the clockspring, probably two connectors, one yellow
one just a couple of wires and a wider one thats grey.
Then unbolt the clockspring, just 3 torx screws size 20.
You'll probably have to pull the trim from around the column
to fish the wires out, then run the new ones and hook everything
back up.

Remember when you get the new clock spring, there is
a piece of plastic with a loop on it that says remove
and discard. DON'T pull it out until you have the new one
bolted in or it will spin on you and won't line up right.
This should be about all you need to know. It's not as
easy to blow an airbag as every one seems to think, I've
never even heard of one blowing up during this repair.
For security, you could unhook the battery and there should
be no way for it to blow.

Good luck, let me know if you have any problems.

Ryan Woodward
'79 Bronco Ranger XLT

======
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bronco.com/lmb

----- % cut here % -----

flagship wrote:
>
> My first indication of the problem was the failure of the horn. Then it
> started working again. I don't recall if the bag light was flashing
> that whole time or not. Yes, the steering wheel will have to come off.
> Don't worry about the airbag. It's not difficult to remove. You'll need
> a steering wheel puller. You may want to pull the wheel, get to the
> clock spring and disconnect and reconnect it to see if it fixes it. If
> you have another car, you can then run to the dealer for the
> replacement. My dealer had one in stock as I recall. They wanted about
> $300 to replace it if memory serves. It's worth it to do it yourself.
> The clock spring looks like a circular ribbon cable in plastic. I was
> going to try and look for a break and repair it. After getting to it, I
> saw it wasn't worth the effort.
>
> Emil
>
> Mark Kaczmarczyk wrote:
>>
>> Thanks folks for the advice about my Code 32 - question though, if this
>> "clock spring" also provides switching for the horn, why does my horn
>> continue to function as the code flashes? Is it possible it is a
>> connector to the "clock spring" that is the problem? I am pretty good
>> mechanically, but my Haynes manual advises abandoning all hope with air
>> bag equipped wheels and says to go to the dealer to remove. Does the
>> wheel have to come off to replace the clock spring?
>>
>> --
>> Mark Kaczmarczyk

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 15:22:45 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: removing wheel locks

At 02:12 PM 4/21/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Can you guys keep a secret? I
>always use my Club, but I rarely bother to lock it. Sometimes a visual
>deterrent is enough.

Thas what I do most of the time. I figger if the sight of it doesn't deter
them then why have them cut the steering wheel to get it off. Who
knows, I might get the car back again....I did once before ;-)



------------------------------

From: "rodives" arnet.com.ar>
Subject: Re: Air Bag Trouble Code
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 20:27:02 -0300

Mark:
i had the same problem, my airbag light started with a code 32, but my
horn still worked ok, and living in south america its imposible to get the
spare, because the truck is not sold here, so i was about 6 months with the
blinking light, now the cruise control sotped working on sharp curves on the
hwy, if i turned a corner the horn now wouldn t work, in march i was in
florida and was able to get the clock spring (part number F4TA-14A664-BE)
for about $140 in a local dealer, it was easy to change, but make sure to
disconect the battery before you start doing anything, and you wont need
any special tools to do ti.


ROD FLR94
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Kaczmarczyk attglobal.net>
To: Truck-List <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2000 9:05 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Air Bag Trouble Code


> Hi folks - I've been lurking here for a number of months just soakin' up
> the information and the chatter. Now I have a problem to lay at your
> collective feet. I have a 94 F160-I6-5sp long box. Recently, the Air
> Bag warning light began flashing a code 32 (3 flashes, pause, 2
> flashes). I've called the dealer to find out what it means, and they
> refuse to tell me (they want me to bring it in for a "diagnostics
> check", for what I'm sure is a minimum $100 charge). Anybody out there
> know?
>
> --
> Mark Kaczmarczyk
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

From: Scrangler83aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 19:55:41 EDT
Subject: Re: removing wheel locks

Very Good Point and example!!

Tom

re-thinkin this now :o)

------------------------------

From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" home.com>
Subject: Re: More Air Bag Light Questions
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 19:58:02 -0500


----- Original Message -----
From: "Harold Norman" att.net>

> For security, you could unhook the battery and there should
> be no way for it to blow.

----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Kaczmarczyk attglobal.net>
, it was easy to change, but make sure to
disconect the battery before you start doing anything, and you wont need
any special tools to do ti.






------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 21:48:33 -0400
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Body work, etc.

I took my truck ('91 F150 4x4, 302, M5OD, 129k miles) to the local MAACO
for an estimate. They will replace the hood and tailgate (aftermarket
parts), weld in new panels over both rear wheels, fix some old bondo,
and paint the whole thing for $1295. I thought it was reasonable, and
other family members have had work done there that came out very well.

I have to decide now whether it is worth it, or if I should start
shopping for a replacement truck. The motor runs great, and I have done
the top end, timing set, and oil pump. It got four ball joints, a
steering box, PS pump and lines in July & August, two gas tanks in
December, and its 5th starter last week (this time I put on a heat
shield!). The only things I know it needs are a new fuse panel (I have
to leave the panel open and push on the fuse for the blower), oil pan
(already changed it once), cat-back exhaust (the headers and cats have
been replaced), and new rims to go with the new paint (A.R.E. chrome
sucks!). The strut arm bushings are suspect. The lower radiator
supports have disappeared on both sides.

How does the MAACO price sound? Is it worth it, or should I give up
now?

Steve Spaulding

------------------------------

From: JWater3961aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 23:07:21 EDT
Subject: Question about rain

Hey crew
Seems like everytime it rains or is very damp. My truck sputters like a
person with a stutter everytime I step on the gas. I don't mean to offend
anyone with a stutter it is the best way for me to describe it. Also does it
when it is idling on these days the engine just doesn't sound right. Anyone
have any suggestions much thanks

Jarod Waterman
1995 Ford F150

------------------------------

From: SlamedF150aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 23:34:27 EDT
Subject: NEED HELP!!!!! MOTOR STOPS RANDOMLY

MY TRUCK SHUTS OFF BY IT SELF. I WOULD BE DRIVIN AND IT WOULD JUST SHUT
OFF,,,,SOMETIMES IT TURNS BACK ON...BUT MOST OF THE TIME IT STAYS OFF. THEN I
HAVE TO CRANK ON IT. IT DOESNT SPUDDER , AND WHEN IT RUNS, IT RUNS GREAT. ITS
AN 87 F-150 302 C-6

I NEED HELP IT SUX HAVIN TO WAVE ON TRAFFIC

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 19:19:04 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: removing wheel locks

Paul,
I totally agree with your comments, It's like that old saying, 'Locks are for
honest people only'
I have resisted the temptation to do anything to my Effie, in the way of big
wheels chrome etc. I have stuck with the sunraysia widened wheels that were
standard fitment to the ambo's and police vehicles of the era. I don't want
to make my Effie a more attractive target to people who prefer to 'shop' five
finger discount style.

regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ



Paul M Radecki wrote:

>
> Two men went for a walk in the jungle. The first man noticed that his
> companion was wearing running shoes, and he asked him why. "I am wearing
> running shoes", said the second man, "in case we encounter a tiger."
> "Fool!", said the first man. "Running shoes will not enable you to
> outrun a tiger!" "That is true", said the man with the shoes, "but I
> don't have to run faster than the tiger. I only have to run faster than
> YOU!"
>
> This is why I believe in security devices such as the Club. I don't have
> to defeat the thief, I have merely to convince him that it would be
> easier to steal somebody else's truck. Can you guys keep a secret? I
> always use my Club, but I rarely bother to lock it. Sometimes a visual
> deterrent is enough.
>
> lordjanuszjuno.com
> '94 F150
> '73 F100
>


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 07:55:43 -0400
From: Martin Horne optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Body work, etc.


At 09:48 PM 4/21/00 -0400, you wrote:
>I took my truck ('91 F150 4x4, 302, M5OD, 129k miles) to the local MAACO
>for an estimate. They will replace the hood and tailgate (aftermarket
>parts), weld in new panels over both rear wheels, fix some old bondo,
>and paint the whole thing for $1295. I thought it was reasonable, and
>other family members have had work done there that came out very well.
>
>I have to decide now whether it is worth it, or if I should start
>shopping for a replacement truck.

Just my two cents - I spent $3500 on a truck that I knew needed a motor and
tranny. I used this to bargain the price down. I banked on spending another
$2000 for the engine and trans, figuring that for $5500 I would have a vehicle
that had a rebuilt powertrain. I could have spent $5500 on a different truck
that didn't seem to need any major work, and then have something major fail
anyway. Guess what I'm saying is it's better the devil you know ..... if you
know what I mean.


M.

Optonline.Net>FlatSpinOptonline.Net


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 07:56:27 -0400
From: Martin Horne optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Body work, etc.

At 09:48 PM 4/21/00 -0400, you wrote:
>I took my truck ('91 F150 4x4, 302, M5OD, 129k miles) to the local MAACO
>for an estimate. They will replace the hood and tailgate (aftermarket
>parts), weld in new panels over both rear wheels, fix some old bondo,
>and paint the whole thing for $1295. I thought it was reasonable, and
>other family members have had work done there that came out very well.
>
>I have to decide now whether it is worth it, or if I should start
>shopping for a replacement truck.

Just my two cents - I spent $3500 on a truck that I knew needed a motor and
tranny. I used this to bargain the price down. I banked on spending another
$2000 for the engine and trans, figuring that for $5500 I would have a
vehicle that had a rebuilt powertrain. I could have spent $5500 on a
different truck that didn't seem to need any major work, and then have
something major fail anyway. Guess what I'm saying is it's better the devil
you know ..... if you know what I mean.
Martin Horne
'86 Bronco
Long Island, NY

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 09:09:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Gear Ratio Question

> I have a '96 Bronco 5.8L with and E40D, 3.55 axle gear ratio, factory
> limited-slip rear, and 32X11.5R-15 Tires. The engine turns around 1700
> RPM in OD at 70 MPH. It is really a slug on any significant grade and I
> usually need pop it into 3rd to avoid lugging. I am considering changing
> the gear ratio to either a 3.73 or 4.10. If anyone has experience or
> opinions on what the better ratio would be I would like to know. I had
> heard somewhere that going to the 4.10 required the replacement of
> additional parts. The rig is a daily driver and will infrequently be used
> to pull a trailer in the 5,000 lb range.

With those 32's you don't have a real 3.55 anymore. More like a
3.08 now.

Your close on the rpm. By calculation, you should be running at
1800 rpms at 70mph in OD. 3.73's will only get you 1900 rpms.
Sounds like you'll like the 4.10s. That gets you 2110 rpms at 70.
Engine will be a little louder and mileage will go down though. Your
call.

You can plug your variables in yourself at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.4lo.com
Click gear ratio, use .7 for tranny ratio(that close to OD ratio of the
E4OD. Use 1 for transfer case ratio(unless its 4WD).

Danny
fitz011ev1.net

------------------------------

From: SlamedF150aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 12:22:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Body work, etc.

I don't know about where u live but around here maaco does a bad job on all
of there cars. I have never seen a good paint job come out of that place.
they do not repair body work very well. When I see a car that just got
painted from them, all I see is orange peel and runs. they don't use a very
quality paint either.

just my 2 c
Chris

------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #67
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