Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages
contained in these archives without consent from the respective
author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on
any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by
individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors.

Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Fri, 21 Apr 2000 10:01:53 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 10:01:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #66
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Thu, 20 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 066

In This Issue:
Re: Check Engine Light
Re: Check Engine Light
Re: Check Engine Light
Re: Check Engine Light
Manual tranny to C4 swap
Gear Ratio Question
Re: Check Engine Light
Re: Check Engine Light
Re: Check Engine Light
Greetings
Re: Gear Ratio Question
Ford MY Transformations
Re: Ford MY Transformations
Pinging, valvetrain noise
Re: Brakes and Steering
Re: Brakes and Steering
Re: Brakes and Steering
Re: Pinging, valvetrain noise
speedometer hepl needed
Re: Need expert advice
Re: 2 more brake questions
Clutch
Re: speedometer hepl needed
Rear end codes
Re: Rear end codes
Re: speedometer hepl needed
Check engine light
Re: speedometer hepl needed
Re: speedometer hepl needed
Re: speedometer hepl needed
More Air Bag Light Questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Ferino, Chris" caremark.com>
Subject: Re: Check Engine Light
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 09:54:00 -0500

"From what I know of Ford Trucks, they didnt come with a check engine light
until the EECIII which was in 1990. Am I correct in this guys?"

I don't know about others, but my old '87 Bronco had a Check Engine light.

--Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 08:10:26 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Check Engine Light

Well, I have the truck in question on this thread and it has an EECIV.....
and supposedly an MIL or Emissions light that I CANNOT FIND!

At 09:54 AM 4/20/00 -0500, you wrote:
>"From what I know of Ford Trucks, they didnt come with a check engine light
>until the EECIII which was in 1990. Am I correct in this guys?"
>
>I don't know about others, but my old '87 Bronco had a Check Engine light.
>
>--Chris
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.



------------------------------

From: bennettr hiwaay.net
Subject: Re: Check Engine Light
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 10:21:52 -0500

My 87 F150 with the EFI 4.9L has the place for the Check Engine light but no
wire in the wiring harness for it.

Rex

-----Original Message-----
From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Ferino, Chris
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 9:54 AM
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Check Engine Light


"From what I know of Ford Trucks, they didnt come with a check engine light
until the EECIII which was in 1990. Am I correct in this guys?"

I don't know about others, but my old '87 Bronco had a Check Engine light.

--Chris
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 08:35:29 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Check Engine Light

Do you have a schematic that shows what the wire color would be and
where it would come from?
Thanks,
Chuck
At 10:21 AM 4/20/00 -0500, you wrote:
>My 87 F150 with the EFI 4.9L has the place for the Check Engine light but no
>wire in the wiring harness for it.
>
>Rex
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
>[mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Ferino, Chris
>Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 9:54 AM
>To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
>Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Check Engine Light
>
>
>"From what I know of Ford Trucks, they didnt come with a check engine light
>until the EECIII which was in 1990. Am I correct in this guys?"
>
>I don't know about others, but my old '87 Bronco had a Check Engine light.
>
>--Chris
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 10:10:09 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Manual tranny to C4 swap

I am toying with the idea of pulling the C4 out of my 64
Falcon and replacing it with an AOD. The question for
the group is how much of a PITA would it be to fit a 70's
C4 into the F150 that now has the Ford 3 speed manual.
Thanks,
Chuck
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1986 F150 six banger (Hers)
1964 Falcon Sprint


------------------------------

From: "Eric Larsen" khm1.com>
Subject: Gear Ratio Question
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 10:32:26 -0700


I have a '96 Bronco 5.8L with and E40D, 3.55 axle gear ratio, factory limited-slip rear, and 32X11.5R-15 Tires. The engine turns around 1700 RPM in OD at 70 MPH. It is really a slug on any significant grade and I usually need pop it into 3rd to avoid lugging. I am considering changing the gear ratio to either a 3.73 or 4.10. If anyone has experience or opinions on what the better ratio would be I would like to know. I had heard somewhere that going to the 4.10 required the replacement of additional parts. The rig is a daily driver and will infrequently be used to pull a trailer in the 5,000 lb range.

Also - does anyone know where the EEC-IV unit is located in this vehicle?

Eric Larsen
Maple Valley, WA
elarsen khm1.com



------------------------------

From: DTrowbridge webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 12:48:37 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Check Engine Light

my 85 F-150 does not have a check engine light. it only has an
emmisions light. if they are trying to tell you that you have one, then
go down to a Ford dealer to the parts dept and ask them for a check
engine light. from there just have the guy at the counter write down on
paper saying that your truck never came with one. have him sign it and
try to get the parts manager sign it to. if they don't accept the
paper, take it to Ford and have them back you.

David
85 F-150 300 I6


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 10:59:14 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Check Engine Light

At 12:48 PM 4/20/00 -0500, you wrote:
>my 85 F-150 does not have a check engine light. it only has an
>emmisions light

The failure notice on the visual portion of the test does say "Check
Engine Light", although they also interpret that as "Emissions Light"
with some other verbage that covers their butt in that aspect. I think
I could beat it depending upon the mood of the referee since the motor
does run so clean. It's ridiculous to think that a light that is supposed to
come on every 60,.000 miles would be the reason for a failure.
Heheheh, nice call though.





------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 11:38:26 -0700
From: Marv & Marge Miller lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Check Engine Light

Wayne Foy wrote, in part:
> >From what I know of Ford Trucks, they didnt come with a check engine light
> until the EECIII which was in 1990. Am I correct in this guys?

My '89 F-250 with 302 has a "Check Engine" light 2 5/8 inches above the center of
the windshield wiper switch.

-Marv-

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 14:50:23 -0500
From: "Michael Masse" medicine.wisc.edu>
Subject: Greetings

Howdy Folks,
I'm new to this list, but I've been on the Pre-80 list for quite some time now. I've just picked up an 87 F250 8600 lb GVWR 460 C6 4x4 to tow my 78 Bronco with. Although this is still a Duraspark II system, there are quite a few differences between this engine and the one on the Bronco. One of the problems I'm having is that there is a small coolant leak, and it appears to be coming from between the block and the timing chain cover. This job in itself doesn't look bad to fix, but there are two air pumps that are going to be in the way for this job, and anything else I might want to do with it later on down the road. The spaghetti mess of air hoses is insane and I'm going to yank all of that stuff. Since it's a 8000+ GVWR truck, it's cat exempt, and we have no emissions testing here to speak of. I'm curious if anyone has any experience doing this, and has any advice for things to watch out for when I do it. Also, looking in the owners manual, it shows a factory gauge cluster with a tach. If I come across one of these in a junkyard, is there any reason why it wouldn't be a direct swap with the one I currently have?

Mike



------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 16:34:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Gear Ratio Question

In a message dated 4/20/00 1:32:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, elarsen khm1.com
writes:

< < Does anyone know where the EEC-IV unit is located in this vehicle? > >
Eric,
It is behind the drivers side kick panel, behind the parking break pedal.
If you look under the hood, you can see the main connector going to it on the
firewall right next to the fender.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: Ford MY Transformations
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 14:51:22 -0600


Very Fast Wayne wrote:

From what I know of Ford Trucks, they didnt come with a check
engine light until the EECIII which was in 1990.
Am I correct in this guys?
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

Phred Replies:

Ford had the Duraspark (EEC III) system for the F-150 throughout most of
the late 70's and mid 80's. With the gas crisis(s) and environmental panics,
the big three were under intense pressure to develop more efficient and
cleaner engines.

By the mid 80's Ford was ready with its first large scale production of the
Electronic Fuel Injection system, the EEC-IV with the TFI-IV module. There
have been variations of this system since, and many bugs worked out. For
example the early versions had the TFI-IV module mounted right on the
distributor, which in many cases lead to premature failure of the
electronics - heat and electronics don't mix too well, and the distributor
is basically a very good heat sink.

Starting with the late 84 and 85 model year (MY), California F-150 trucks
began hitting the market with this new electronic fuel injection system, and
the rest of the country starting seeing the same shortly after.

However during the 85, 86 and even 87 MY's, one could get an F-150 with a
combination of equipment under the hood. Ford still had stock and inventory
for a lot of Duraspark ignition modules, carburetors, linkages,...The
industry was a little slower adapting to changes back then, not like today
where we have pretty fair Just-In-Time delivery and consumption system in
most computer based businesses. Of course this also applies to the other
(no-less important) members of the big three.
In my-then business of aftermarket electronics application for Propane and
CNG conversions, we got to experience a few interesting combinations. When
we would get a request for such a transitional MY, we often requested in
return that the hood be raised and its contents inspected carefully. Just
because a truck was an 86 MY did not guarantee that it had a fuel injection
system under the hood, it could of very well had an electronically
controlled carburetor. Once we got into the 88 MY, everything was pretty
well settled for the F-150's.

F-250's and F-350's are of course a different story. They did not go to EFI
- TFI until a few years later, so then again one could end up with an 89 3/4
ton truck and still have a carburetor/Duraspark system.

With the bigger delivery truck like the bobtails it is not uncommon to find
a 90 or 91 MY with the Carbureted/Duraspark system. By 92/93 these bigger
fleet trucks had pretty much gone to EFI - TFI systems across the board.

Hope this helps clarify some reasons why we sometimes have inconsistencies
and also why this list has been so helpful. Please correct any information I
typed, I did this really quick while I had some free time at work.

Phred, KD5AQB
1995 F-150: last F-150 MY with OBD I Diagnostics, 1996 MY had OBD II
Diagnostics, same body style but completely different electronics package.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 14:19:26 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Ford MY Transformations

At 02:51 PM 4/20/00 -0600, you wrote:
>However during the 85, 86 and even 87 MY's, one could get an F-150 with a
>combination of equipment under the hood. Ford still had stock and inventory
>for a lot of Duraspark ignition modules, carburetors, linkages


Uhhhh, yep....EEC IV with 1 bbl carb on 4.9L with TFI heatsink
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1986 F150 six banger (Hers)
1964 Falcon Sprint


------------------------------

From: "Kyle Pacatte" fgi.net>
Subject: Pinging, valvetrain noise
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 16:19:06 -0500


Help, I have a 94 F-150 4X4, with 302 & manual tranny. 57,000 miles. The truck has a ping or spark knock, I tried turning the timing down, but computer automatically sets it to where it is needed. Set a 10, the truck pings at around 2000 RPM. I've heard that it could be the IAC valve, EGR valve, O-2 sensors, or an intake problem. The truck also uses one quart of oil every 800 miles. It seems to hesitate in the lower RPM range, not a lot of power. I changed the plugs and wires, there is no sign in the exhaust that it is burning oil. No check engine light! I'm trying to narrow down the problem, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
klpac fgi.net



------------------------------

From: BanksRVA aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 17:31:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Brakes and Steering

Maybe I'm a bit slow, but I have never messed with brake drums on a 1 ton
before.
The vehicle is an 82 Econoline 350. Today I took off the wheel, removed the 8
bolts off the hub, and pulled the axle out. What I am left looking at is a
very large in diameter nut. Is that what I need to take off to get the drum
off? If so, does anyone know the size or if it is available at local parts
stores? Also, a bit off gear oil dripped out. Is this normal or do I have a
seal leaking? I am assuming I should repack the wheel bearings. What kind of
grease do I use?
Also, I have a lot of play in the steering. Is the little nut/screw thing on
the steering gear the adjustment? Do I just loosen the nut and turn the screw
in?
Thanks!!!
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 17:41:52 -0400
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes and Steering



BanksRVA aol.com wrote:
>
> Maybe I'm a bit slow, but I have never messed with brake drums on a 1 ton
> before.
> The vehicle is an 82 Econoline 350. Today I took off the wheel, removed the 8
> bolts off the hub, and pulled the axle out. What I am left looking at is a
> very large in diameter nut. Is that what I need to take off to get the drum
> off?

Yes

>If so, does anyone know the size or if it is available at local parts
> stores?

Most decent auto parts stores should have that hub nut removal tool.

>Also, a bit off gear oil dripped out. Is this normal or do I have a
> seal leaking?

Normal, bearings are lubed by gear oil.

>I am assuming I should repack the wheel bearings.

No!

>What kind of grease do I use?

None!

> Also, I have a lot of play in the steering. Is the little nut/screw thing on
> the steering gear the adjustment?

Yes

>Do I just loosen the nut and turn the screw in?

Yes, but not too far or you will bind it up. Try very small increments.

OX

> Thanks!!!
> Joe
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: BanksRVA aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 18:24:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Brakes and Steering

Thank you Ox
Joe

------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 19:00:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Pinging, valvetrain noise

In a message dated 4/20/00 5:28:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, klpac fgi.net
writes:

<< No check engine light! I'm trying to narrow down the problem, any
suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
klpacfgi.net >>
Kyle,
Been there. Have you pulled the SPOUT plug out before setting the timing? If
you haven't, it will change back to where it was. The spout disconnects the
ECM control over the timing circuit. Also you need to run the KOER codes.
That is Key On Engine Running. I had a problem like this. If it is the same
problem I had, it will throw a 225 code meaning "Knock Sensor Signal not
detected during dynamic response test". Basically the knock sensor circuit
controls the timing and fuel advance portions of the programming. If you get
this code, email me off list. The fix is quick, but rather painful to
accomplish, unless you are a 6 fingered triple jointed small person.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: "Onion" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: speedometer hepl needed
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 20:45:08 -0400

I have a 95 f250 4x4 diesel that the speedometer is jumping 5-10 mph , the
transmission is also
shifting rough and at the wrong time. I have checked the wiring from the
rabs unit to the speed senor
on the rearend also replaced the speed senor and reseated the connectors to
the speedometer.
Am I in the ballpark? what next ?

thanks
Onionman


------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Re: Need expert advice
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 20:48:58 -0400

> The engine works fine. I can't say the same for the starter.
> When you start it, it makes a horrible grinding noise, and is
> destroying the teeth of the flywheel. So he went back and
> got the bell housing and flywheel from the same Ranger.
> Same results. He has tried five different starters and two
> different flywheels, with the same results.

First thing to check is the connections and voltages at the
battery, the solenoid, and the starter terminal. Any chunk
of corrosion or looseness may decrease cranking power
and not bring the starter drive into full mesh with the flywheel
teeth. Check to make sure the starter is fully bolted up to
the bell housing. A loose starter will make a lot of racket, but
wont spin the engine.
Less commonly, make sure the starter is the right one for your
year, make, model, and transmission ... some starters are made
slightly different than others, and have different throw length.
And for an unusual one ... try changing out the old solenoid-to-
starter wire. I have only encountered the phenomenon once,
in a 1979 Thunderbird, but the wire that carries starting current
may have raised in resistance enough to not allow enough current
to the starter to operate it properly.
Good luck :-)



------------------------------

From: BanksRVAaol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 21:41:47 EDT
Subject: Re: 2 more brake questions

Hey folks,
Ox already answered some brake questions for me but I have 2 more concerning
my 82 Econoline 350.
The first concerns the nut holding on my rear drums. I could swear it was a
standard
nut, but all I could find at four different auto stores was 6 point sockets
for 4x4's. Is this what I need and I just didn't see it? Or is it a standard
socket that I need?
Second, how tight should the nut be for the front rotors?
Thanks again,
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 21:16:13 -0500
From: Buck Shoff sktc.net>
Subject: Clutch

Hi All,
I have a new to me 1986 F250 with a granny low 4 speed (T-18?) and a
hydralic actuated clutch. I just installed a new clutch, pp, and throw
out bearing. The clutch now seems to work fine. However, with the
clutch engaged, the slave cylinder has enough residual pressure to keep
the throw out bearing resting on the fingers of the pressure plate.
When the engine is running, the throw out bearing is turning all the
time. I've done alot of clutches, but they were all linkage operated
and adjusted to allow for free travel. I have read that there is no
free travel in the hydralic actuated clutch. If this is so, should my
throw out bearing be turning all of the time? Thanks. Buck Shoff

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 22:43:38 EDT
Subject: Re: speedometer hepl needed

Onionman,
I would check the TPS voltage. This could cause these problems. The voltage
should be no more than .98 at fully closed.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: SOBFROGGwebtv.net (Scott Mummery)
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 22:12:23 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Rear end codes

Hey Wayne, you seem quite up on all this fun Ford stuff. Do you know how
decipher the code tag that is attached to the rearend cover? I am trying
to find out if a friend rearend has 28 or 31 spined axel shafts.
Thanks
Scott Mummery
95 F-150 Flareside SC 4X4 w/ 5.8L
86 Mustang street/strip


------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 23:35:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear end codes

In a message dated 4/20/00 11:13:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
SOBFROGGwebtv.net writes:

<< I am trying
to find out if a friend rearend has 28 or 31 spined axle shafts. >
Scott,
There is no quick way to do that, besides pulling a hub and counting them
yourself...=). I could cross reference it for you if I had the VIN and axle
code. That's the only 2 ways to do it. Unless of course it is a truck, than
most will have 31 splines from 1990 up.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 00:35:59 -0400
From: Harold Norman att.net>
Subject: Re: speedometer hepl needed

Hey Mr. Pungent Edible Bulb-

> I have a 95 f250 4x4 diesel that the speedometer is jumping 5-10 mph , the
> transmission is also
> shifting rough and at the wrong time. I have checked the wiring from the
> rabs unit to the speed senor
> on the rearend also replaced the speed senor and reseated the connectors to
> the speedometer.
> Am I in the ballpark? what next ?

I am going to cut-and-paste and slightly edit a posting I just
made to another list ( http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bronco.com/lmb ). If it's
disjointed, then I apologize. I can clarify any comments later.
Oh... and I am taking some text from others w/o credit too.
This way any blame or flames can be directed solely at me.

----- % cut here % -----

Could the PSOM be on the fritz? I don't know about the F-250, but
on a '95 Bronco w/ E4OD the PSOM processes the VSS signal which
drives the speedometer display -and- goes on to the PCM.
I am wondering if your shifting problems are not a side-effect
of the bad PSOM ( PCM = Powertrain Control Module ).

Does your speedo sweep out smoothly?

From the Ford manual:

To check for normal operation, hold the reset button
( trip odometer ) down as the key is turned from off
to run. The needle is suppose to make a clean smooth
sweep of the gauge.

If the speedo did not "prove out" as indicated, then that might
be pretty serious.

When my PSOM failed it proved out fine. However the cruise control did
not work. The tranny shifted O.K. I figured that was because the speed
signal was so erratic that on average the tranny should do nothing.
The only sign that the tranny might be hiccupping was at highway
speeds on the Mass. State Speedway ( Turnpike ).

Back to the "prove out." In the '95 manual, it states to make
sure your power and ground connections are good and check again.
If the speedo does not sweep out correctly, then your SOL
( S*** Outta Luck ).

A year ago a PSOM was available on the cheap ( ~$150 ) and now you
may be looking at ~$275 at 25% off Ford retail. Prices almost doubled
after Sep. '99. AFAIK, there is no publicly available schematic to do
any electronic trouble-shooting of the PSOM. Only specific speedo
"centers" touch the units. No schematic makes trouble-shooting a PSOM
a real problem.

This expensive replacement might not be the problem. I'll just
mention that it is a rather common occurrence... the Programmable
Speedometer/Odometer Modules ( PSOMs ) fail a lot. I hear this
is especially true of the Taurus'. Perhaps there are just so many
more of those that the sheer numbers made it obvious Ford stuck
a rather unrealiable part into many of their vehicles.

Lastly, after crawling about my truck for a long while
looking for my speedo problem, I opted to replace the PSOM.
If you go this route, then you can try a boneyard ( ~$200;
may have trouble w/ calibration as '95 PSOM can be reset
only six times... the number of changes remaining is displayed
only while hooked up ). Remanufactured from Ford, I would
recommend looking for 25% off via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.worldparts.com/
( IIRC ). Your core charge will be a bundle! I went
through Sarat Ford in Agawam, Mass. for ~$275 .

Replacement is a breeze with patience.

----- % cut here % -----

HTH.

-- HN

------------------------------

From: "James" colstate.edu>
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 07:55:53 -0500
Subject: Check engine light

My 1989 F150 with a 300 six and Mazda 5 speed has a check engine
light. BTW, it blinks when the engine is cold but goes out after
the engine warms up and only does this in cold weather. Can someone
with a manual tell me how to pull the "codes"?

Thanks,
James Hiers

> From what I know of Ford Trucks, they didnt come with a check engine light
> until the EECIII which was in 1990. Am I correct in this guys?
>




------------------------------

From: "Onion" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: speedometer hepl needed
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 08:17:37 -0400

Checked the psom as suggested it sweeps full and smooth however in the
odometer it displays
"E 08 6" does anyone know what this code means?

thanks
Onion
----- Original Message -----
From: Harold Norman att.net>
To: <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2000 12:35 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: speedometer hepl needed


> Hey Mr. Pungent Edible Bulb-
>
> > I have a 95 f250 4x4 diesel that the speedometer is jumping 5-10 mph ,
the
> > transmission is also
> > shifting rough and at the wrong time. I have checked the wiring from the
> > rabs unit to the speed senor
> > on the rearend also replaced the speed senor and reseated the connectors
to
> > the speedometer.
> > Am I in the ballpark? what next ?
>
> I am going to cut-and-paste and slightly edit a posting I just
> made to another list ( http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bronco.com/lmb ). If it's
> disjointed, then I apologize. I can clarify any comments later.
> Oh... and I am taking some text from others w/o credit too.
> This way any blame or flames can be directed solely at me.
>
> ----- % cut here % -----
>
> Could the PSOM be on the fritz? I don't know about the F-250, but
> on a '95 Bronco w/ E4OD the PSOM processes the VSS signal which
> drives the speedometer display -and- goes on to the PCM.
> I am wondering if your shifting problems are not a side-effect
> of the bad PSOM ( PCM = Powertrain Control Module ).
>
> Does your speedo sweep out smoothly?
>
> From the Ford manual:
>
> To check for normal operation, hold the reset button
> ( trip odometer ) down as the key is turned from off
> to run. The needle is suppose to make a clean smooth
> sweep of the gauge.
>
> If the speedo did not "prove out" as indicated, then that might
> be pretty serious.
>
> When my PSOM failed it proved out fine. However the cruise control did
> not work. The tranny shifted O.K. I figured that was because the speed
> signal was so erratic that on average the tranny should do nothing.
> The only sign that the tranny might be hiccupping was at highway
> speeds on the Mass. State Speedway ( Turnpike ).
>
> Back to the "prove out." In the '95 manual, it states to make
> sure your power and ground connections are good and check again.
> If the speedo does not sweep out correctly, then your SOL
> ( S*** Outta Luck ).
>
> A year ago a PSOM was available on the cheap ( ~$150 ) and now you
> may be looking at ~$275 at 25% off Ford retail. Prices almost doubled
> after Sep. '99. AFAIK, there is no publicly available schematic to do
> any electronic trouble-shooting of the PSOM. Only specific speedo
> "centers" touch the units. No schematic makes trouble-shooting a PSOM
> a real problem.
>
> This expensive replacement might not be the problem. I'll just
> mention that it is a rather common occurrence... the Programmable
> Speedometer/Odometer Modules ( PSOMs ) fail a lot. I hear this
> is especially true of the Taurus'. Perhaps there are just so many
> more of those that the sheer numbers made it obvious Ford stuck
> a rather unrealiable part into many of their vehicles.
>
> Lastly, after crawling about my truck for a long while
> looking for my speedo problem, I opted to replace the PSOM.
> If you go this route, then you can try a boneyard ( ~$200;
> may have trouble w/ calibration as '95 PSOM can be reset
> only six times... the number of changes remaining is displayed
> only while hooked up ). Remanufactured from Ford, I would
> recommend looking for 25% off via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.worldparts.com/
> ( IIRC ). Your core charge will be a bundle! I went
> through Sarat Ford in Agawam, Mass. for ~$275 .
>
> Replacement is a breeze with patience.
>
> ----- % cut here % -----
>
> HTH.
>
> -- HN
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 08:48:53 -0400
From: Harold Norman att.net>
Subject: Re: speedometer hepl needed

Onion wrote:
>
> Checked the psom as suggested it sweeps full and smooth however
> in the odometer it displays
> "E 08 6" does anyone know what this code means?

English ( "E"; MPH ) vs. other ( "o"; KPH ),
ROM Version 08; Six ( 6 ) conversion constant
changes still left in the PSOM for ( nobody
has changed the PSOM since its install ).

> thanks

You are welcome.

-- HN

------------------------------

From: "Onion" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: speedometer hepl needed
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 09:02:39 -0400

Thanks
onion
----- Original Message -----
From: Harold Norman att.net>
To: <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2000 8:48 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: speedometer hepl needed


> Onion wrote:
> >
> > Checked the psom as suggested it sweeps full and smooth however
> > in the odometer it displays
> > "E 08 6" does anyone know what this code means?
>
> English ( "E"; MPH ) vs. other ( "o"; KPH ),
> ROM Version 08; Six ( 6 ) conversion constant
> changes still left in the PSOM for ( nobody
> has changed the PSOM since its install ).
>
> > thanks
>
> You are welcome.
>
> -- HN
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 11:02:14 -0600
From: Mark Kaczmarczyk attglobal.net>
Subject: More Air Bag Light Questions

Thanks folks for the advice about my Code 32 - question though, if this
"clock spring" also provides switching for the horn, why does my horn
continue to function as the code flashes? Is it possible it is a
connector to the "clock spring" that is the problem? I am pretty good
mechanically, but my Haynes manual advises abandoning all hope with air
bag equipped wheels and says to go to the dealer to remove. Does the
wheel have to come off to replace the clock spring?

--
Mark Kaczmarczyk



------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #66
**********************************
----------------------------------------------------------
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List

Send posts to 80-96-listford-trucks.com

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing
list, send an email to:

listarford-trucks.com

with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of
the message.

Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
----------------------------------------------------------

....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.