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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 09:44:51 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #65
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80-96-list Digest Wed, 19 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 065

In This Issue:
Re: K&N stinks
Re: Check Engine LIght
Re: K&N stinks
Re: 1981F1504by4,300cu I6,SWB
Need expert advice
347 stroker no more
Re: tanks filling each other
Re: Check Engine LIght
'94 F150, 302, 4R70W - Hard 1-2 Shift
Re: '94 F150, 302, 4R70W - Hard 1-2 Shift
Re: Removing wheel locks
Re: 347 stroker no more
C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
Re: K&N stinks
Re: Removing wheel locks
Re: Removing wheel locks
Re: Radius arm bushing
Air Bag Trouble Code
Re: Radius arm bushing
Re: Air Bag Trouble Code
Re: Removing wheel locks
Re: Air Bag Trouble Code
Chrome Rims
ADMIN: Re: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
motors
Static Shock again....
Re: tanks filling each other
Re: ADMIN: Re: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
Apology
Re: ADMIN: Re: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty
Re: ADMIN: Re: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
Re: Chrome Rims
Re: Chrome Rims
newbie question
Re: K&N stinks
Re: newbie question
Re: K&N stinks

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 08:27:24 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: K&N stinks

At 09:39 PM 4/18/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Put a K&N filter on my'85 351 4bbl, and besides looking good (shiny
>chrome) and sounding good (swooshy) and maybe getting more power, I'm
>smelling some sort of fuel/exhaust gasses in the passenger compt. that I
>didn't smell before. Also it doesn't idle as well on startup as with
>orig. air filter setup. Is this normal? Rest of truck is stock. I put a
>breather oil filler cap on the valve cover where it used to connect to
>the air filter (and fill it with oil) that seems like it would be the
>culprit... but what's the fix? Thanks for any tips.
>-russ

First, with the increase in air flow, you're going to need
to adjust the idle speed. Might want to adjust the air/fuel
mixture, though if this is a problem its likely it was already
improperly set and the K&N is exacerbating what was an
unnoticeable problem. Gas fumes.... hmmmm that's a weird one
to have with a filter change. Fill it with oil? What, the
breather cap? You're not supposed to do that! Its there to
vent blow-by and oil fumes back into the intake train to
burn rather than spew into the atmosphere. It should not be
filled with oil, it should be connected to the filter. Does
the filter cover have anywhere to punch out a hole for the
breather?

Ken




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 08:27:47 -0400
From: Martin Horne optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Check Engine LIght

Don't know it it applies, but my '86 Bronco Full Size has NO check engine
light. There is an "Emissions" light that is on the top far left of the
panel, but it is just attached to a timer circuit as far as I can tell. I
had a similar discussion with a mechanic friend from Colorado who said
there has to be one. I checked the dash from the back and there wasn't even
a lens or position it would have been in.



At 08:32 AM 4/18/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Did the 86, F150. 4.9L come with a Check Engine Light? I may have to
>PROVE to the state smog certifiers that this trick never had a light and
>therefore does not now need one to get a smog certificate.
>If it did or did not, is there a anything I can referece to prove this fact?
>Thanks,
>Chuck Sanborn
>Torrance, CA
>86 F150 300 cu in six banger

Martin Horne
'86 Bronco
Long Island, NY

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 08:41:55 -0400
From: Martin Horne optonline.net>
Subject: Re: K&N stinks


Ken (and Russ)

I think Russ meant that the breather used to fill the OLD filter system with
oil. That could be caused by blow-by which, since the new installation is now
venting the block directly to the engine bay would account for the smell. When
it was filling the filter with oil the offending fumes were heading back into
the combustion chamber. A compression test may reveal the culprit.

Seems to make total sense that with a 4bbl something would need adjusting if
you feed the engine more air.

>First, with the increase in air flow, you're going to need
>to adjust the idle speed. Might want to adjust the air/fuel
>mixture, though if this is a problem its likely it was already
>improperly set and the K&N is exacerbating what was an
>unnoticeable problem. Gas fumes.... hmmmm that's a weird one
>to have with a filter change. Fill it with oil? What, the
>breather cap? You're not supposed to do that! Its there to
>vent blow-by and oil fumes back into the intake train to
>burn rather than spew into the atmosphere. It should not be
>filled with oil, it should be connected to the filter. Does
>the filter cover have anywhere to punch out a hole for the
>breather?
>
>Ken
>
>



M.

Optonline.Net>FlatSpin Optonline.Net


------------------------------

From: Mc Gregor JAMES mossgas.co.za>
Subject: Re: 1981F1504by4,300cu I6,SWB
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 14:55:34 +0200

Thanks Slik , I was somewhat lost with the steering noise problem.

The vehicle's VIN no is 1FTDF14E2BNB02529.The truck has a 4 speed manual
transmission with 265/75/15" tyres ,uses unleaded fuel and has 2 fuel
tanks.I will check for the metal tag tonight.

James




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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 09:17:39 -0400
From: "Shelley Reynolds" pct.edu>
Subject: Need expert advice

I'm new to this group, so please be patient with me!
I have a 1984 Bronco II. It is 5 speed w/overdrive, 2.9 ltr. engine.
A few months after I bought it, the engine blew. Being unable to find
another Bronco engine, my husband bought the engine from a 1984 Ranger.
The engine works fine. I can't say the same for the starter. When you
start it, it makes a horrible grinding noise, and is destroying the
teeth of the flywheel. So he went back and got the bell housing and
flywheel from the same Ranger. Same results. He has tried five
different starters and two different flywheels, with the same results.
He has also tried shimming the starter. Same thing. Three different
mechanics, plus some student mechanics where I work, say that it should
work. Can someone please shed some light on what the problem is or
could be?? I am at my wits end, and my husband is ready to take it to
the junkyard.

------------------------------

From: johnhfleming juno.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 06:36:36 -0700
Subject: 347 stroker no more

All right you SOB's <:-)> reasoned me out of the 347 so who has a page or
data on conversion to the venerable 351 with EFI using the 302 speed
density equipment? I have some info but want more and also some
performance related advice for a daily driver that sees some towing
duties. '86 F150 super, AOD, 33's, 4:56.

I was really looking forward to the 347

John

________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: BAH NWC.EDU
Subject: Re: tanks filling each other
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 09:01:23 -0500






>>Subject: 92 F150 Dual fuel tanks filling each other

>>I've been having this problem for about a week now,
>>if the front tank is empty, the rear somehow fills it.
>>Is there anyone on this list who has had a similar
>>problem? Did you find a solution? Maybe it could be
>>related to my front tank not reading at the Gauge?
>>maybe the selector switch?

>>Thanks,

>>Joe
>>Lost in jersey

>Subject: Re: 92 F150 Dual fuel tanks filling each other
>Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 12:32:33 -0700

>Call Ford Immediately -- There is an NTSB Safety Recall
>that has NOT been done on your truck.

>Wallace A. Gustafson


Common problem in this vintage dual-tank F-series...may
or may not be covered by a recall, but sure worth a call
to a Ford dealer (with your VIN #) to see if there's one
that applies to your truck. USUALLY this symptom is
caused by a faulty selector valve.

Bruce Hanson
'86 F-150
Apple Valley, MN




------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 11:00:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Check Engine LIght

In a message dated 4/19/00 8:28:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
flatspin optonline.Net writes:

< < 86 Bronco Full Size has NO check engine > >
From what I know of Ford Trucks, they didnt come with a check engine light
until the EECIII which was in 1990. Am I correct in this guys?
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 10:32:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: Russell Hunter hiwaay.net>
Subject: '94 F150, 302, 4R70W - Hard 1-2 Shift

I've had this truck for a little over a month now and really like it. It
has 73k miles on it and the 1-2 upshift is a lot harder than what I would
expect. It's really neck snapping if the throttle is about halfway to the
floor when it shifts. All other shifts and the converter locking and
unlocking are smooth. The previous owner had Mercon V fluid in it. I
changed the fluid and filter and put Havoline Mercon V back in and saw no
real difference in the 1-2 shift. I didnt see any abnormal material in the
pan when I pulled it off.

Is the 1-2 shift on 4R70W's very firm?

Is this a side effect of the Mercon V fluid?

Thanks,

Russ Hunter



------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 11:39:31 EDT
Subject: Re: '94 F150, 302, 4R70W - Hard 1-2 Shift

In a message dated 4/19/00 11:33:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rahunter hiwaay.net writes:

<< I've had this truck for a little over a month now and really like it. It
has 73k miles on it and the 1-2 upshift is a lot harder than what I would
expect. It's really neck snapping if the throttle is about halfway to the
floor when it shifts. All other shifts and the converter locking and
unlocking are smooth. The previous owner had Mercon V fluid in it. I
changed the fluid and filter and put Havoline Mercon V back in and saw no
real difference in the 1-2 shift. I didnt see any abnormal material in the
pan when I pulled it off.

Is the 1-2 shift on 4R70W's very firm?

Is this a side effect of the Mercon V fluid?

Thanks,

Russ Hunter
>>
Russ,
The 4R70W was a chronic torque convertor eater due to soft shifts and low
pressures. I believe the person you bought the truck from probably put a
shift kit in it to remedy those problems. If you have a good tranny shop,
take it to them and have them check the spring in the valve body. I believe
you probably have the heavy duty or Taxi/police level spring in there. Have
them back it down to the towing spring. That should fix the snapping shift.
If you have any other questions about your motor/tranny combo let me know. I
race one similar to yours.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 08:53:35 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Removing wheel locks

At 08:27 AM 4/12/00 -0400, you wrote:
>JC Whitney has a new item, part # 07PD5107A that they say will "easily
>removed damaged or locked lug nuts without a key". Looks like a kind of
>"inside-out" stud extractor. Says it fits from 3/4" to 1" outside diameter.
>Not cheap at $40

Took the Beast to my local mechanic and he had a full set of those sockets.
In about 1 1/2 minutes I had no more locking nuts!
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1986 F150 six banger (Hers)
1964 Falcon Sprint


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 10:16:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Lane excite.com>
Subject: Re: 347 stroker no more


On Wed, 19 Apr 2000 06:36:36 -0700, 80-96-listford-trucks.com wrote:

> All right you SOB's <:-)> reasoned me out of the 347 so who has a page or
> data on conversion to the venerable 351 with EFI using the 302 speed
> density equipment? I have some info but want more and also some
> performance related advice for a daily driver that sees some towing
> duties. '86 F150 super, AOD, 33's, 4:56.
>
> I was really looking forward to the 347
>
> John

Try this page. Alot of links on Ford EFI stuff.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.iaw.com/~aubertin/88mgt/eec-iv/eec-iv.htm
Roger
"Accomplishing the impossible only means the boss will add it to your
regular duties."





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------------------------------

From: "Mike Miller" blackfoot.net>
Subject: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 12:09:57 -0600


Test: Pretty Park.exe :)

Mike Miller


-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: application/octet-stream
-- File: Pretty Park.exe



------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 14:57:00 EDT
Subject: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe

Mike,
Sorry to say buddy, you have a virus. Please take care of it as all the other
people on your address book will be recieving it from you just like the list
has. Thanks to Ken for getting the Listar software that catches stuff like
this.
Later
Wayne Foy
#2 Top Truck Points
Point Holder
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing Series

------------------------------

From: sliknessmindspring.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 15:31:03 -0400
Subject: Re: K&N stinks

------------
First, with the increase in air flow, you're going to need
to adjust the idle speed. Might want to adjust the air/fuel
mixture, though if this is a problem its likely it was already
improperly set and the K&N is exacerbating what was an
unnoticeable problem. Gas fumes.... hmmmm that's a weird one
to have with a filter change. Fill it with oil? What, the
breather cap? You're not supposed to do that! Its there to
vent blow-by and oil fumes back into the intake train to
burn rather than spew into the atmosphere. It should not be
filled with oil, it should be connected to the filter. Does
the filter cover have anywhere to punch out a hole for the
breather?

Ken
----------------------------
Ken,

I think you have the PCV system routing backwards. The vent from the air cleaner is to pump clean air into the crankcase and the return line through the pcv valve routes to the blow-by and fumes back to the intake for combustion. I changed to an open element filter and replaced my hose to the air cleaner from the valve cover with an open element breather cap on the valve cover.

As far as the fumes, when you go to an open element filter, you will tend to smell any of the gas leaks or a rich condition quicker than you would with a closed air filter system.

Slik

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 07:26:49 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: Removing wheel locks


Makes you wonder why you bother to use wheel locking nut systems.
$40 for 4 cheap, but very 'hot' mags. Sux, don't it !! :-((

regards
Les
Lost in the land of OZ


Chuck Sanborn wrote:

> At 08:27 AM 4/12/00 -0400, you wrote:
> >JC Whitney has a new item, part # 07PD5107A that they say will "easily
> >removed damaged or locked lug nuts without a key". Looks like a kind of
> >"inside-out" stud extractor. Says it fits from 3/4" to 1" outside diameter.
> >Not cheap at $40
>
> Took the Beast to my local mechanic and he had a full set of those sockets.
> In about 1 1/2 minutes I had no more locking nuts!
> Chuck Sanborn
> Torrance, CA
> 1986 F150 six banger (Hers)
> 1964 Falcon Sprint


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 14:51:41 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Removing wheel locks

Yep....Guess it gives some kind of false "Peace of Mind",
kinda like the Club, that can be cut off in about 15 seconds.
Chuck

At 07:26 AM 4/20/00 +1000, you wrote:

>Makes you wonder why you bother to use wheel locking nut systems.
>$40 for 4 cheap, but very 'hot' mags. Sux, don't it !! :-((
>
>regards
>Les
>Lost in the land of OZ
>
>
>Chuck Sanborn wrote:
>
> > At 08:27 AM 4/12/00 -0400, you wrote:
> > >JC Whitney has a new item, part # 07PD5107A that they say will "easily
> > >removed damaged or locked lug nuts without a key". Looks like a kind of
> > >"inside-out" stud extractor. Says it fits from 3/4" to 1" outside
> diameter.
> > >Not cheap at $40
> >
> > Took the Beast to my local mechanic and he had a full set of those sockets.
> > In about 1 1/2 minutes I had no more locking nuts!
> > Chuck Sanborn
> > Torrance, CA
> > 1986 F150 six banger (Hers)
> > 1964 Falcon Sprint
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.



------------------------------

From: kb9odg.markjuno.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 16:37:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Radius arm bushing

Why do you say that?

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, staduim truck sounding, boring no
more

On Wed, 19 Apr 2000 07:13:26 -0400 (EDT) Ford Truck Enthusiasts List
Server ford-trucks.com> writes:
> Hmmm, that must just go to show ya that they make the bushings
> different for the truck :-)
> Chuck Sanborn
> Torrance, CA
> 86 F150 300 cu in six banger
>
>
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 18:05:20 -0600
From: Mark Kaczmarczyk attglobal.net>
Subject: Air Bag Trouble Code

Hi folks - I've been lurking here for a number of months just soakin' up
the information and the chatter. Now I have a problem to lay at your
collective feet. I have a 94 F160-I6-5sp long box. Recently, the Air
Bag warning light began flashing a code 32 (3 flashes, pause, 2
flashes). I've called the dealer to find out what it means, and they
refuse to tell me (they want me to bring it in for a "diagnostics
check", for what I'm sure is a minimum $100 charge). Anybody out there
know?

--
Mark Kaczmarczyk



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 15:20:58 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Radius arm bushing

Tongue in cheek......
My poly bushings squeak. Lotsa Mustang guys complain of the
same malady.
Chuck
]
At 04:37 PM 4/19/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Why do you say that?
>
>- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
>'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
>tires ...
>'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, staduim truck sounding, boring no
>more
>
>On Wed, 19 Apr 2000 07:13:26 -0400 (EDT) Ford Truck Enthusiasts List
>Server ford-trucks.com> writes:
> > Hmmm, that must just go to show ya that they make the bushings
> > different for the truck :-)
> > Chuck Sanborn
> > Torrance, CA
> > 86 F150 300 cu in six banger
> >
> >
>________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 18:27:38 -0400
From: flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Air Bag Trouble Code

That is the dreaded "Clock spring" code. The clock spring allows the
current for the horn button and cruise controls to travel through the
steering wheel as it turns. It is a relatively easy fix if you're at
all semi-handy. The part is a little over a hundred dollars if I
recall.

Emil



Mark Kaczmarczyk wrote:
>
> Hi folks - I've been lurking here for a number of months just soakin' up
> the information and the chatter. Now I have a problem to lay at your
> collective feet. I have a 94 F160-I6-5sp long box. Recently, the Air
> Bag warning light began flashing a code 32 (3 flashes, pause, 2
> flashes). I've called the dealer to find out what it means, and they
> refuse to tell me (they want me to bring it in for a "diagnostics
> check", for what I'm sure is a minimum $100 charge). Anybody out there
> know?
>
> --
> Mark Kaczmarczyk
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: Scrangler83aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 19:20:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Removing wheel locks

At the shop i work at we just pop those locks off like they are normal lugs
with the socket set that we have for them, i dont have wheel locks on mine
for that reason, if someone wants the wheels bad enough, they will get them
either way :o)

great world eh?

Tom

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 19:26:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Air Bag Trouble Code

In a message dated 4/19/00 6:10:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
markkattglobal.net writes:

<< Recently, the Air
Bag warning light began flashing a code 32 (3 flashes, pause, 2
flashes). >>
It is caused by a part called a clock spring. It is the spring that connects
the horn and other steering wheel functions through the column to the
harness, and of course the airbag. It is about a $100 part and you can do the
work yourself if you are even semi-mechanically inclined.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: 2insaneexcite.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 16:54:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Chrome Rims

------------------
To stop chrome rims from rusting do this before putting the tires on
them (can be done with tires on also):
Take a rag soaked with motor oil (I used 30wt.)
Coat entire wheel, front and back with a good thick coat of said motor
oil. Let sit as long as possible, a week if you can. Then you can simply
wash the oil off. The oil will "soak into" the chrome molecules and your
rims should never rust :-). Keep them clean in the normal manner.
Chuck
-----------------------
Does this really work? I know that oil will stop rusting but as soon as you
wash it off won't the oily "rustproofing" qualities of it be gone as well?
You have tried this and it works? It sounds like another old wives tale. I
didn't think they could be moleculely(sp) bonded together by just an
application of it. wouldn't this also affect the way the rim looks also if
it is bonded to the rim? Sorry for being skeptical but it just seems a
little odd to my mind.

DK





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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 20:08:39 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Re: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe

At 02:57 PM 4/19/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Mike,
>Sorry to say buddy, you have a virus. Please take care of it as all the other
>people on your address book will be recieving it from you just like the list
>has. Thanks to Ken for getting the Listar software that catches stuff like
>this.
>Later
>Wayne Foy
>#2 Top Truck Points
>Point Holder
>1999 Fun Ford Weekend
>Racing Series

You'd think that as often as we're seeing Listar catching this
that everyone would rush out and get anti-virus software. All
it take is one infection to destroy years of data!

Wayne, interested in an Atlanta rally?

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

From: "Rich Wood" hotmail.com>
Subject: motors
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 00:21:10 GMT

I was wondering how hard it is to replace a 302 to a 300 I-6 in a '87 F-150
w/ EFI. The 300 has EFI too. I'm having troubles w/ my rods and its time
for a rebuild and I was thinking about putting a 300 in instead, at least
for a little while, while I'm rebuilding my 302... Well, thanks in advance.

Rich
'87 Ford 150 XL
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" pdq.net>
Subject: Static Shock again....
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 19:28:27 -0500

> Dave H.
> Houston (Gee it's Hot already!) TX

C'mon Dave. The only zap you get when opening the door in
Houston is the 95% humidity hitting you in the face. More like a
brick wall hitting you :-O
Danny

Hey Danny, once upon a time it got cold and low humidity here. Memory fades
at exactly when, and doubt creeps in as to it ever will again, but it HAS
happened.

And OH NO, a confederate flag thing on this list... The people of South
Carolina should decide. Period.
NOT Jesse Jackson, or Queesy Infoomay(sp) or especially Sheila "where is
the Camera?" (last name escapes me, but she's a Texas Congress Person, that
many of us DO NOT LIKE!)

We must stop this thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dave H.
Houston


------------------------------

From: ACMERCGaol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 20:59:04 EDT
Subject: Re: tanks filling each other

In a message dated 04/19/2000 10:04:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, BAHNWC.EDU
writes:

<< Common problem in this vintage dual-tank F-series...may
or may not be covered by a recall, but sure worth a call
to a Ford dealer (with your VIN #) to see if there's one
that applies to your truck. USUALLY this symptom is
caused by a faulty selector valve.
>>
I will check this out guys... thanks for the info...

Joe
lost in jersey

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 21:51:43 EDT
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Re: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe

In a message dated 4/19/00 8:09:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kpayneford-trucks.com writes:

<< Wayne, interested in an Atlanta rally? >>
Yessir!!! Depending on the date for it of course. Need some planning help, I
have some time before the next race. Let me know.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: "Mike Miller" blackfoot.net>
Subject: Apology
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 20:21:32 -0600

I am sorry for sending the prettypark virus to the list earlier today. Good
thing the list software strips attachments.

mike
85 F250 4x4 xcab 6.9l banks turbo


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 22:51:09 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Re: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty

Late July. I'm trying to arrange a tour of the Ford plant.
The Rally would be for all years, because I realize that
the Pigeon Forge show doesn't appeal to everyone. It was
a real shame that they dropped later models. The year
before, they had all years. I could definitely use help!
Ken


><< Wayne, interested in an Atlanta rally? >>
>Yessir!!! Depending on the date for it of course. Need some planning help, I
>have some time before the next race. Let me know.
>Later,
>Wayne Foy
>94 Flareside SC
>1999 Fun Ford Weekend
>Racing series
>#2 Top Truck
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.



------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 22:57:05 EDT
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Re: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe

In a message dated 4/19/00 10:52:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kpayneford-trucks.com writes:

<< Late July. I'm trying to arrange a tour of the Ford plant.
The Rally would be for all years, because I realize that
the Pigeon Forge show doesn't appeal to everyone. It was
a real shame that they dropped later models. The year
before, they had all years. I could definitely use help!
Ken >>
Ken,
OK, July is pretty open for me. I am gonna try to make it to the Norwalk,
Ohio event which is July 14-16th. The next race after that is August 5-6 in
Bristol, TN. So late July is awesome. I will email you my new numbers off
list so that you can get a hold of me. Sounds like a good time coming.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 20:33:31 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Chrome Rims

At 04:54 PM 4/19/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Does this really work? I know that oil will stop rusting but as soon as you
>wash it off won't the oily "rustproofing" qualities of it be gone as well?
>You have tried this and it works?

Works for me and I coated mine two years ago....



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 00:15:54 -0400
From: flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Chrome Rims

I always like to look logically at claims such as these. Even well
meaning things can mess you up. Like Global warming and gun control, it
always pays to look at such claims. For instance; someone who would go
to this trouble to protect a set of rims might not realize all the other
things that might affect the outcome of a "test". For example: I always
treat my rims with oil and they never rust. Know how I know it works???
I wash my truck three times a week. I wax her three times a month. She
gets a special detailing 4 times a year. She's my pride and joy. Two
years ago I treated the rims with oil and it still hasn't rubbed off.

See how hard it is to separate fact from hyperbole. Cause and effect
are very difficult to discern.

Other examples abound. How about when your friend has a truck that
hasn't seen maintenance since he bought it used 30 years ago. Now it
barely runs. He sees an ad on TV for chrome plated, teflon coated, high
definition, stereophonic split tip spark plugs. While he's changing
them, he figures he might as well change the wires, coil, tps, egr valve
maf sensor, thermostat, O2 sensor, valve seals, and the catalytic
converter. This way he gets rid of all the codes all at one time. On
Monday after 30 hours of serious labor, he gives a glowing testimonial
for the great plugs and how now he's getting 30 miles to the gallon.

Sorry for the excess use of the bandwidth.

Emil


chuck sanborn wrote:
>
> At 04:54 PM 4/19/00 -0700, you wrote:
> >Does this really work? I know that oil will stop rusting but as soon as you
> >wash it off won't the oily "rustproofing" qualities of it be gone as well?
> >You have tried this and it works?
>
> Works for me and I coated mine two years ago....
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: "Obert, Scott AT3" constellation.navy.mil>
Subject: newbie question
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 21:42:20 -0700

Hello everybody, I am new to this list and I just bought a 1995 F150 4X4
302. I am looking for a good repair manual to get so I can do some work on
this truck. I don't have very much experience working on trucks and I want
to learn! I would like to hear which manual you guys recommend I get.
Should I go with haynes or chiltons or both, which is better for my truck?
Are there any others worth getting? Thanks.

Scott


------------------------------

From: berninghausen2juno.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 22:25:51 -0700
Subject: Re: K&N stinks

Slik:

You may have just lit a bulb in my head concerning a thread from a while
back--valve cover condensation in the carbureted 300I6. Cold air from
the intake/air cleaner area (there's a K&N in there, so more air flow)
would normally flow through the rocker and crankcase area and carry the
noxious vapors back into the intake below the throttle when the PCV valve
opens. If the PCV valve is partially fouled, the moisture in the air
(this is Oregon--we got wet air!) condenses right under the breather in
the valve cover and even works its way to the dipstick. Heat in the oil
keeps liquid water from collecting in the crankcase (no sign of it in
drained oil), but there's enough to make the peanut butter-looking
emulsion under the breather and even fill the breather hose with liquid
water.

I renewed the thermostat with a good 195 degree replacement and raised
the running temp, but the water didn't completely go away until I
replaced the PCV valve. The old one rattled, but when I shot some carb
cleaner through it, it dumped a bit of brown gunk. There's a difference
between the rattle of a partially fouled valve and an unused one that I
hadn't noticed until I compared them completely. Just takes a little of
that water/oil goo to interfere with the valve and trap some of that cold
air.

I was backwards on the airflow through the crankcase ventilation, I
guess, but your explanation clears it up. The new PCV valve and correct
operating temp fixed the condensation.

Thanks for the clear thinking!

Bill in Portland
> ----------------------------
> Ken,
>
> I think you have the PCV system routing backwards. The vent from
> the air cleaner is to pump clean air into the crankcase and the
> return line through the pcv valve routes to the blow-by and fumes
> back to the intake for combustion. I changed to an open element
> filter and replaced my hose to the air cleaner from the valve cover
> with an open element breather cap on the valve cover.
>
> As far as the fumes, when you go to an open element filter, you will
> tend to smell any of the gas leaks or a rich condition quicker than
> you would with a closed air filter system.
>
> Slik

>

________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 07:24:04 EDT
Subject: Re: newbie question

In a message dated 4/20/00 1:01:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ObertSconstellation.navy.mil writes:

<< Should I go with Haynes or Chiltons or both, which is better for my truck?
Are there any others worth getting? Thanks.

Scott >>
Scott,
I can get you the actual Ford manual on CD for your truck. Email me off list
if you would like this. I have one and have gotten too many people to list
one if these. I love it. It includes all the trouble shooting tests the techs
at the dealers use, electrical/vaccum diagrams and part numbers.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 09:44:42 -0500
Subject: Re: K&N stinks

> Put a K&N filter on my'85 351 4bbl, and besides looking good (shiny
> chrome) and sounding good (swooshy) and maybe getting more power, I'm
> smelling some sort of fuel/exhaust gasses in the passenger compt. that I
> didn't smell before. Also it doesn't idle as well on startup as with
> orig. air filter setup. Is this normal? Rest of truck is stock. I put a
> breather oil filler cap on the valve cover where it used to connect to
> the air filter (and fill it with oil) that seems like it would be the
> culprit... but what's the fix? Thanks for any tips.
> -russ

Easy one Russ. Since you went to the K&N you've eliminated the
the hose from the valve cover to the air cleaner canister. Its part of
the PVC system. It vents engine blowby into the air cleaner at idle
and low speeds for reburn. Now that you've just got an open engine
vent, thats what your smelling.

It probably doesn't idle as well cold due to the loss of the heat tube
from the exh manifold area to the air cleaner snout.

Fix: if you like the K&N, you'll have to live w/it. Until you get that oil
blowby problem solved.
Danny
fitz011ev1.net

------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #65
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