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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Sun, 16 Apr 2000 20:30:10 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 20:30:10 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #62
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List
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At 01:33 PM 4/15/00 -0700, you wrote:
>, not sure whether to go
>chrome rims and have them rust or go the safe but not shiny way
To stop chrome rims from rusting do this before putting the tires on
them (can be done with tires on also):
Take a rag soaked with motor oil (I used 30wt.)
Coat entire wheel, front and back with a good thick coat of said motor
oil. Let sit as long as possible, a week if you can. Then you can simply
wash the oil off. The oil will "soak into" the chrome molecules and your
rims should never rust :-). Keep them clean in the normal manner.
hi, i have a 82 351w with a 2 bbl, everything is stock. this 2 bbl still
sucks too much gas for me, i'd like a small carb for gas milage purpse since
the gas prices suck. can anyone tell me what a good carb. would be.? im
looking for another 2bbl for it, and later down the road a 4bbl. thankx for
in a 85 f150 4x4 t-18/np-205 tans.case
82 f100 4speed (six banger)
Oh yea, good comment on the side walls, as for the roller, I know a guy
that just installed the Ford Racing roller kit in a 69 351 and he's
loving it. If you've got the motor down that far, why not spend a
'little' extra and free up a few horses with a roller cam? If I were an
engine, I'd see it as a compliment. But I'm not an engine, so I don't
know what to think.
On Sat, 15 Apr 2000 15:33:32 -0400 (EDT), Vic wrote:
> The problems I've always heard about the 5.0 strokers has
> been the piston side loading against the bottom of the
> cylinder bore causing it to wear too fast. But this was
> usually in motors that were raced and spun up a bit. I was
> thinking in a low RPM truck application that might not be a
> After thinking about recommending the Mustang cam, aren't
> truck blocks non-roller blocks? If so it won't work.
> About the bottom ends being weak, from what I've heard all
> the 50oz 302s are pretty lousy. In ASedan the blocks seem to
> hold up fine though, its the cranks and rods that go - the
> motors are commonly spun into the upper 6k range. My CP car
> will use a 89 5.0 block, but will have a main gurdle and
> good rods and crank - about a 7k red line.
> In my personal truck, a 90, I'm planning on swaping the 302
> for one of those new 351 truck motors Ford is selling for
> $2195 list. I'll dress the front with the correct accessory
> brackets, adapt the EFI and use a 351 speed density
> computer. I originally wanted to do a 427w stroker and put
> some old 427 badges on the fender but this would cost too
> much, especially for something that will end up being used
> almost exclusively for towing.
> Does anyone know where I can get a custom exhaust system
> for a '90 Bronco? Borla only goes back to '92. And I can't
> seem to find anything on the web again. Thanks,
It depends on what you mean by "custom". If you mean the
same thing as I do when using the term, then, yeop, I have
an answer :-)
Check with any local garage that sells pieces of exhaust pipe.
Most of them are willing to custom cut and bend pipes to make
your exhaust do anything you want. It might take a bit of
driving around and/or calling places, but there usually is one in
any reasonable sized municipality. (2 of 'em relatively close
to where I live, and I am out in the wilderness !)
Good luck :-)
<< hi, i'd like to know if anyone else out there experiances a shock when you
get out of your car/truck, i knows its a static shock, but is there any way
to get rid of it? thankx for the help >>
I haven't heard of that happening to anyone in a LONG time, maybe I'm just
out of the loop - but this used to happen a lot on cars with polyester belted
tires or the old (thump-thump-thump) nylon belted bias plys. Only cure I
knew of was the hang a ground strap off the frame like the fuel trucks used
to use. Truckers used to swear that the ground strap had a secondary side
effect - no more flat tires from picking up nails on the road.... wonder if
that was true or just an old wives tale??
you can get rid of the static shock by hanging a coper wire under your
truck, so when you stop at a traffic ligth it touches the ground and joins
the trucks body and the ground getting rid of the static, it usually
happens in very dry areas, that should do it
flare side 300ci 94
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2000 6:10 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] general ?
> hi, i'd like to know if anyone else out there experiances a shock when you
> get out of your car/truck, i knows its a static shock, but is there any
> to get rid of it? thankx for the help
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
I have an 87 stepside w/man xmsn, 302, and fac air. I want to put in a 97
crate engine 351 from Ford Motorsports. I would like to use factory parts if
possible, especially the exhaust system. The 351 comes complete except for
a distributor and acc. brackets. Does any one know which dist, computer ,
exhaust pipe, fuel, and wiring mods are needed? Thanks, Stuart Falkner
<< In my personal truck, a 90, I'm planning on swaping the 302 for one of
those new 351 truck motors Ford is selling for $2195 list. >>
I've seen that ad and am wondering what truck that came out of. The ad said
it was a fairly late model ('97?), after the new body style F-150's were
introduced. I thought the 351 was dumped with the new body style trucks? Do
they have computer harness to work with this late of engine? I know that the
Motorsports catalog shows harnesses for the 5.0 engine. This would be really
sweet for an upgrade, but it must be a formidable job with all the smog
Also, re the 331 vs 347 stroket kits, Mustangs and Fast Fords magazine has an
a little article in the current issue regarding these two options. Going
from memory (can't find the issue - house is a mess) they say that the 347
option historically put the rod pin too high on the piston, next to the one
of the ring grooves, making ithe piston weak. However, the supplier
mentioned in the article (again, sorry I can't be more specific) had solved
this problem and either option was now viable for street use. I'll post
again when I find the magazine.
> hotmail.com> wrote that his Bronco tailgate window will not go
> and down in spite of fact that the motor will run when removed from the
> tailgate. The right angle mechanical drive head in the motor assembly is
> composed of plastic parts to form a "popover" mechanism similar in
> to an impact wrench. The plastic posts in the drive break off and are
> up into chunks that will turn the output shaft when no load is
> door window drives,at least in the mid-80's, were identical although
> smaller. There is a cheap repair procedure for these that I have used on
> several doors and on Bronco tailgate drives.
> 1) Remove the assembly from the vehicle. For the doors,as I remember it
> involves drilling some holes in the
> door inner frame,but there is a "holepunch" indentation where the
> needs to be drilled. The hole should
> be big enough to accept the socket/extension to be placed on the
> mounting bolts.
> 2)Disassemble the right-angle drive,and clean out the plastic fragments
> old grease. You are left with a
> triangle shaped cavity into which fits a smaller triangle shaped
> . Before failure,the triangular shaped
> block pressed on plastic posts(now gone) in the corners of the cavity
> drive the window.With the posts
> gone it would now spin freely if assembled.
> 3)Now find either three ball bearings(you must choose appropriate size)
> three stacks of appropriately
> chosen junk nuts to place in the corners of the cavity,and pack in
> with wheel bearing or some similar fairly
> heavy grease .
> 4) The ball bearings or nuts must be sufficiently large to make the
> mechanism "drive",and small enough that
> you can assemble it .
> Don't worry about the fact that the repaired unit has no ability to
> "impact" slip. It never happened anyway. The motor has an overcurrent
> and just stops when it hits either the top or bottom of the allowed
> Hope this helps..Sam Means
Sam is exactly correct on the window drive repair. I've done this
several times. I used 3/8" round alum stock from Home Depot to
replace the designed obsolesent plastic rollers. Just make sure
you cut correct length and deburr the edges. Be sure and repack
One repair lasted a year then the coil in the mtr went out. Another
is going strong after 2 years. Actually works better than the plastic
BTW, Ford obviously designed this crap for 80-100K mi
obsolesence and proceded to offer a "repair kit" for $20-25. You
get 3-4 plastic rollers for your $. When presented w/this at the Ford
parts counter, I asked the guy "wheres your ski mask and gun"?
He got his package of crap back within 30 secs.
With all this talk of engine swappage...heh.
I've been debating on dropping an 8 into my truck, a `95 F150 short cab/bed, its the baseline XL plus air and a sony Xplod stereo system (rocks :). But I'd like to get more power out of the 4.9L and 5speed combo, or if that isn't possible drop in a 302, not a 351, if the mpg drops below 16 or so I will have to start riding a bike, heh. Would the crated explorer V8 for $1400 be able to line up with the tranny and everything? What else would I need and what final cost would I be looking at (I'll be doing all the work at my friends, he has all the tools I could possibly need so dont count in labor)
so yah, any ideas on getting power out of a `95 six banger? I know everyone will say get a K&N, exhaust, but I mean real power, as in what electric fan would be good? and does anyone make underdrive pulleys for this sucker? Oh and I've looked in every truck magazine and website and NO ONE makes headers for a I6...whats up with that?
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