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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Sat, 15 Apr 2000 15:33:32 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 15:33:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #61
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80-96-list Digest Fri, 14 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 061

In This Issue:
Tranny
Re: 347 stroker
Bronco Tailgate window
custom exhaust
Re: power brakes; rear disc swap
Re: Trailer Wiring Question
Camper charge
spark plugs for MSD

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Joel Thomas" prodigy.net>
Subject: Tranny
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 08:59:17 -0500


I have a 1984 F-150 4x4
351W/T-18/NP-208
the tranny is bulletproof and excellent but i hate it for driveing around town and on the highway,it drives like a tractor.
my question is if i found a used c-6. wouldn't the final gear be the same as the one in the 4 speed, 1:1 ??
if it is what are the choices for overdrive automatics?
my friend has a bronco with a 302 and an AOD(i think it is an 86)
it drives really good and has an excellent overdrive.
and i can find one around here pretty cheap i think.
are there any other ones that i could look for and not spend an arm and a leg.

also the 351W puts out around 270hp
i have done a little to it no internal work just intake and carb,ignition.

will the aod handle that my friends seems to do very well.

it also has 33" tires.
that i probably will trade for 31's

i am getting 9.5 mpg.

and NEED and overdrive.

that is can get used for under 300$
then rebuild.

thanks,
Joel Thomas
Little Rock,AR


------------------------------

From: "Vic Erwin" webdigs.com>
Subject: Re: 347 stroker
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 09:45:29 -0500


The problems I've always heard about the 5.0 strokers has
been the piston side loading against the bottom of the
cylinder bore causing it to wear too fast. But this was
usually in motors that were raced and spun up a bit. I was
thinking in a low RPM truck application that might not be a
problem.

After thinking about recommending the Mustang cam, aren't
truck blocks non-roller blocks? If so it won't work.

About the bottom ends being weak, from what I've heard all
the 50oz 302s are pretty lousy. In ASedan the blocks seem to
hold up fine though, its the cranks and rods that go - the
motors are commonly spun into the upper 6k range. My CP car
will use a 89 5.0 block, but will have a main gurdle and
good rods and crank - about a 7k red line.


In my personal truck, a 90, I'm planning on swaping the 302
for one of those new 351 truck motors Ford is selling for
$2195 list. I'll dress the front with the correct accessory
brackets, adapt the EFI and use a 351 speed density
computer. I originally wanted to do a 427w stroker and put
some old 427 badges on the fender but this would cost too
much, especially for something that will end up being used
almost exclusively for towing.


-Vic
www.webdigs.com

>Thanks Vic, anyway, you brought something else to mind I
remember
>learning when shoping for a stroker kit for a 351 I was
looking at
>building. The bottom end of the 302 is not really that
strong, compared
>to the 351 bottom end.


------------------------------

From: "Sam Means" inetport.com>
Subject: Bronco Tailgate window
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 11:33:45 -0500

hotmail.com> wrote that his Bronco tailgate window will not go up
and down in spite of fact that the motor will run when removed from the
tailgate. The right angle mechanical drive head in the motor assembly is
composed of plastic parts to form a "popover" mechanism similar in principal
to an impact wrench. The plastic posts in the drive break off and are chewed
up into chunks that will turn the output shaft when no load is attached.The
door window drives,at least in the mid-80's, were identical although
smaller. There is a cheap repair procedure for these that I have used on
several doors and on Bronco tailgate drives.
1) Remove the assembly from the vehicle. For the doors,as I remember it
involves drilling some holes in the
door inner frame,but there is a "holepunch" indentation where the hole
needs to be drilled. The hole should
be big enough to accept the socket/extension to be placed on the
mounting bolts.
2)Disassemble the right-angle drive,and clean out the plastic fragments and
old grease. You are left with a
triangle shaped cavity into which fits a smaller triangle shaped block
. Before failure,the triangular shaped
block pressed on plastic posts(now gone) in the corners of the cavity to
drive the window.With the posts
gone it would now spin freely if assembled.
3)Now find either three ball bearings(you must choose appropriate size) or
three stacks of appropriately
chosen junk nuts to place in the corners of the cavity,and pack in
with wheel bearing or some similar fairly
heavy grease .
4) The ball bearings or nuts must be sufficiently large to make the
mechanism "drive",and small enough that
you can assemble it .

Don't worry about the fact that the repaired unit has no ability to
"impact" slip. It never happened anyway. The motor has an overcurrent sense
and just stops when it hits either the top or bottom of the allowed travel.
Hope this helps..Sam Means


------------------------------

From: kb9odg.mark juno.com
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 12:59:01 -0500
Subject: custom exhaust

Does anyone know where I can get a custom exhaust system for a '90
Bronco? Borla only goes back to '92. And I can't seem to find anything
on the web again. Thanks,

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, staduim truck sounding, boring no
more
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 06:43:00 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: power brakes; rear disc swap

The question of brake boosters has raised no comment, so I throw in my
5c worth, for you.
The thought of someone bypassing the brake booster system sent a cold
shiver down my spine, to think I could be sharing the road with someone
else driving a truck with manual brakes only ???. Then I realized that
we're on different continents, - so then, it's Ok by me. So, now I'm
being a self righteous sod ..... but the thought was there, If heaven
forbid, you did have a prang, how would the insurance co. and
transport/police dept. view your brake 'modification' ? Down here they
would 'kick ass' ... BIG TIME
Why don't you fit a big/bigger secondary vacuum tank ? It's not even
rocket science. Buy a new tank, or if your handy with the gasaxe and
spanners, scrounge one from the truck wreckers, and fit you self. I know
what you mean by no engine + no boost= no brakes. I'm sure my truck had
only 1.25 brake applications to zero vacuum. It's a bloody 'pain in the
a*se', if you are trying to sneek home after cerfew time, and the rumble
of the V8 is enough to wake the dead, and if you turn off the motor, the
brakes don't work very well, and you run a very real risk of creating a
drive thru garage.;-))
A second tank out of an Isu*u, and a few $'s for vacuum brake plumbing
parts solved the problem, for next to nix !! One hell of a lot easier
than trying to redesign the servo assist hydraulic brake system that
Ford have installed as stock.

regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ


Zachary Colvin wrote:

> I was just wondering what it would be like to swap in
> an aftermarket master cylinder without the power brake
> booster. I have never driven a truck without power
> brakes (although I have driven tractors with
> mechanical brakes), and I was wondering if I really
> need that booster. My biggest beef against the
> booster is that it runs on vacuum, and is almost non
> exist when I have no vacuum. Maybe I could swap
> something in from a diesel truck?
> Bottom line is, do I really need power brakes?
> Also, if I were to swap in rear disc brakes, what kind
> of master cylinder would I have to swap in?
>
> 1980 Ford F-150 4X4
> 300 I6, T18 manual
> Driven daily


------------------------------

From: "Nelson Vasconcelos" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Trailer Wiring Question
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 18:35:52 -0400

Roger,
Take a test light (or a meter) and check the fuse panel for open fuse
holders. With the key off find a fuse holder with no power, then turn the
key on and check the same one for power. If you find power, wire the trailer
harness to it. If you don't have power windows and/or door locks there'll be
many open fuse holders that are switched by the ignition. Either way you'll
have at least one open. I did the same thing to wire my electric cooling fan
and amp. What ever you do don't wire the trailer to the tail lights they
don't carry the amperage you need and you'll fry the thin tail light wire.

Nelson


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 17:21:51 -0700
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Camper charge

>>>>>>>>>>I need to run a 12 V power line to a Trailer wire harness. Where would be the best place to connect this to? It needs to be switched w/ ignition.
>>>>>>>>>That's a good idea, but I don't know if the taillamp circuit could handle the amperage that maybe required. The specs call for 10 guage wire w/ a 30 amp inline fuse. I suppose that if I run a SSR w/ the tail lamp circuit, that would work. What do you guy's think?
Roger
A dead battery in the camper will draw just as much current as a dead
battery in the truck.The charge wire to the camper has to be done
properly or a fire could result.Between my father my uncles and myself
we have towed travel trailers over a million miles with the following
set-up with no problems.

Get a soleniod designed just for RV charge applications.They are
available from RV supply stores.Mount it near the starter solenoid.Run a
#10 wire from the terminal on the starter solenoid (that the + battery
cable attaches to)
to one the large terminals on the new soleniod.Run a #12 wire from a
ign.on hot source(I use a terminal on the starter solenoid)to the small
terminal on the new solenoid.Mount the 30amp inline fuse to the other
large terminal on the new solenoid and run #10 from the fuse to your
camper plug avioding any chance of wire chaffing.There will be
instuctions with the new solenoid.
Take your time and your should have no problems.When you are using a RV
you are supposed to have fun,not rewiring it or putting out fires.

------------------------------

From: 2insane excite.com
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 13:33:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: spark plugs for MSD

i was wondering what gap you guys with msd coils are running. i recently put
on a msd coil on my 89 f-150 302 and will have the ford motosport ignition
wires on as soon as i get to the local carquest to get some dielectric
grease, but with the extra voltage should i open up the gap bigger or leave
it as it is? i just put in new plugs aboout 10,000 miles ago at a stock .44
gap, can i open it up to .55 or just .50 or what are some of you guys
running?
Other things my truck has gotten lately include:
Exhaust system- decided against headers, took off second cat and have the
pipe in there now, exits out the stock location. sounds real nice, somewhat
loud but that's what i like.
Aux. lights- got my KC HiLites long range driving lights. great little kit,
comes with everything you need except for someone to install it. lights work
nice, VERY bright.
Ignition- the msd coil and wires. soon to be all together.
Tires- well not yet. bfgoodrich A/T 31 10.5 i want, not sure whether to go
chrome rims and have them rust or go the safe but not shiny way. also
thought of getting some bigger muddin tires i could throw on, like 33s (not
sure on clearance) probly if money permits.
thanks in advance for the msd answers and for listening to some of my
ranting.

DK





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End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #61
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