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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Fri, 14 Apr 2000 08:23:52 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 08:23:52 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #60
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80-96-list Digest Thu, 13 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 060

In This Issue:
Re: Removing wheel locks
Re: Inst Panel Removal
Trailer Wiring Question
Re: 347 stroker
Re: Trailer Wiring Question
Re: Trailer Wiring Question
Re: Inst panel removal
Re: 347 Stroker
Bronco Tailgate
Re: 347 Stroker


From: "Del Sharp">
Subject: pre-luber
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 06:42:49 PDT

Thanks for all of the suggestions.
One in particular, by Bret, directed me to a website that sells exactly what
I'm trying put together. Its called the Accusump and the website is They have the valve that I'm looking for on
sale for $99.00. The cannister and the valve sell for $269.00, a bargain
compared to the outrageous price charged for "real" Pre-luber.

Del Sharp


Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 07:19:41 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn>
Subject: Re: Removing wheel locks

At 07:42 AM 4/13/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Thanks for the lesson! These things usually never occur to me till it's too
>late. (duh) If I EVER buy a vehicle w/mags, I'll make sure the 'KEY' is

Good idea...only thing is mine came from a police auction where keys and
batteries are not included ;-)


Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 07:29:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zachary Colvin>
Subject: Re: Inst Panel Removal

On the Windshield Wiper switch, you need to use a tiny
screwdriver to pry a small metal retainer towards the
back of the vehicle. The headlight switch has a small
button on the top that you push, then pull the knob
out. Getting to the button on the headlight switch
will not be easy. If you have big forearms, you might
get your wife/girlfriend/small buddy/whatever to do it.

Do You Yahoo!?
Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites.


Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 07:56:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Lane>
Subject: Trailer Wiring Question

I need to run a 12 V power line to a Trailer wire harness. Where would be
the best place to connect this to? It needs to be switched w/ ignition. I
recently bought a new camper and need the 12 V line to keep the battery on
the camper charged while towing. The place I bought the camber from would
only hook up a harness on one vehicle, so the SO's truck was the lucky one.
I have to put a harness on my truck in the garage this weekend. Almost
forgot, the truck is a '89 F250 4X4.
PS. Funny thing about it all is, the harness is specific to the camper that
I bought. So I still have to buy the harness from the Camper dealer. (He
wanted $40 to install it on my truck, plus the cost of the harness.)

"Accomplishing the impossible only means the boss will add it to your
regular duties."

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From: kb9odg.mark
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:36:26 -0500
Subject: Re: 347 stroker

Thanks Vic, anyway, you brought something else to mind I remember
learning when shoping for a stroker kit for a 351 I was looking at
building. The bottom end of the 302 is not really that strong, compared
to the 351 bottom end. If you want more power, and want to stroke a
motor, then this is what I suggest. Find a 351 block, buy the 425
stroker kit for it, get some really nice heads (twisted wedge), get their
intake (trick flow), get the Mustang wiring for the intake so you have
mass air, and you will have one hell of a strong truck. I know qute a
few people running the 425 kit with no problems what so ever and they
have had it for a while. Also, the 351 has thicker walls between
cylinders, your 302 may run a bit hot. My Bronco list has acually talked
many people out of a stroked 302, because the acuall cost difference
isn't that much.

I guess all I saying now is be warned about the weaker bottom end and the
thin walls that may lead to over heating.

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, staduim truck sounding, boring no

On Thu, 13 Apr 2000 07:52:33 -0400 (EDT) Vic wrote:
> I agree with Mark on both the mass air, and the stock
> Mustang cam as its very torquey. There may be some other off
> the shelf grinds that'll work well, but I'm only familiar
> with the speed parts.
> Super Ford usually runs an ad from a company that offers a
> mass air conversion for something like $580. The stock EFI
> won't run well with a drastic change to CID.
> As for doing the 347, it may be lots cheaper than a 351w
> swap (which I plan on doing). It's also a well proven combo
> in many fast Mustangs.
> -Vic
> 90 F150
> 86 XJ6
> 87 RX-7
> 79 CP Mustang
> 97 Buell S1


Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 12:15:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Trailer Wiring Question

You could short cut the process and run a jumper wire from the tail lamp
circuit to the power feed so the campers battery will get charged anytime
the headlights are on. If you travel great distances when you go camping,
then driving with the headlights on will serve a dual purpose.


Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 09:40:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Lane>
Subject: Re: Trailer Wiring Question

On Thu, 13 Apr 2000 12:15:39 EDT, 80-96-list wrote:

> You could short cut the process and run a jumper wire from the tail lamp
> circuit to the power feed so the campers battery will get charged
> the headlights are on. If you travel great distances when you go
> then driving with the headlights on will serve a dual purpose.
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
That's a good idea, but I don't know if the taillamp circuit could handle
the amperage that maybe required. The specs call for 10 guage wire w/ a 30
amp inline fuse. I suppose that if I run a SSR w/ the taillamp circuit,
that would work. What do you guy's think?

"Accomplishing the impossible only means the boss will add it to your
regular duties."

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From: "Serian">
Subject: Re: Inst panel removal
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 15:25:34 -0400

>.What is the secret to removing the knobs on the headlight and wiper
> I seem like some special tool might be needed. Any suggestions?

Pull really hard ...
the knob is held by a springy clip sort of thing that holds onto the rod
that goes into the knob. If you can get a tool behind the knob to press
the clip away from the dash and toward the knob, and pull the knob
off simultaneously, it will come off easier. I typically find that approach
to be too aggravating, and just use a pry bar to brute force off the
knobs. Granted, it might scrape things up and wear out the clip
faster, but if you only do it once or twice in the lifetime of your vehicle,
it shouldnt matter much.


Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 06:48:54 +1000
From: les williams>
Subject: Re: 347 Stroker

Thank you for the explanation. I forgot about the hassles some of you guys
have over modifications to the 'engine bay', as I say this we're are about to
rip out a 460 cid and replace it with a 500+ cid, going into an ac cobra
replica kit car.
Now I can see where you are coming from, and the appeal of a stroker set-up.

Lost in the land of OZ

johnhfleming wrote:

> >> I think it would be fun to build and I can use all
> the components off the original motor so no potential problems with the
> great state of California about illegal goodies or modifications to my
> vehicle.
> I can also use slightly larger injectors to compensate for the fuel
> needs.
> Thanks, again
> John <<


From: "Strattcat">
Subject: Bronco Tailgate
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 20:30:55 -0400

I was hoping someone could help give me some info on if there was anything extra you have to do to install a new motor on
electric windows.I am trying to get mine on the tailgate of a 84 Bronco to work again,every thing seems to be there,and my
wireing harness is getting power to the motor ,I can leave it unconected and hit the switch on the dash and it will work
fine,then when I hook it up and have the teeth engaged it won't work.Can some of the motors not have enough power ,or if they spin when they are out is that good enough.I don't know where or if it has a auto disconect for when it (the tailgate) is open,but that is the only way I have to try it cause I cannot get it closed after I put the motor in,the window will not go down
so the tailgate will not close,I guess I was just wondering if there are any tricks I don't know about or just missing something
completely.Oh yes the window will go up and down fine by hand without the motor ,so I have to leave it out.Any and all help


From: johnhfleming
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 06:28:10 -0700
Subject: Re: 347 Stroker

My poor, tired '86 5.0 has just over 200,000 and has never been apart nor
has the trans (AOD. I did have it serviced once though). I leak a little
oil but don't burn much and it passes Cal smog so well that the state
should pay me for driving it. I'm not kidding, this is the best vehicle
I've ever owned from the maintainance as well as appearance aspects. It
does have a bit of trouble getting out of it's own way that's why I was
considering the 347. Before this truck I always had larger FE engines in
everything but that was the "good ol' days" when you could mix and match
and not deal with smog cops etc. If the bastards hadn't stolen my '71
F100 I'd probably still be driving that.




End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #60

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