80-96-list Digest V2000 #6

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80-96-list Digest Sun, 13 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 006

In This Issue:
Re: Help Finding Exhaust Parts
steering columns
Tie down points
ADMIN: AFTE and Pigeon Forge Lists
Re: need information
ez locker vs. powertrax help
Re: Help Finding Exhaust Parts
'86 1 bbl carb
Re: '86 1 bbl carb
Re: Help Finding Exhaust Parts
Re: '86 1 bbl carb
Re: '86 1 bbl carb
Coil question
Gear ratios
Re: Coil question
Re: Coil question
Re: Coil question
Re: Coil question
Re: engine swap update
Re: Retranny ???'s
Rear disk brake conversion
Truck Value?
Re: '86 1 bbl carb
Re: Truck Value?
C-6 and extended cab question
Re: '86 1 bbl carb
Re: Truck Value?
Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help
Re: Catalytic Perverter
help, how to pinpoint problem in ABS box w/o scan tool
Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help
Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help
Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help
Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help
Re: need information
Re: Instrument clusters Part II
Choke Thermostats 101
center cap
Re: need information
Re: Coil question
Re: Clunking 4R70W
Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 09:00:39 -0500
From: Martin Horne optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Help Finding Exhaust Parts

At 12:37 PM 2/12/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Ok I am sure that someone out there has had to find the crossover pipe and to
>(2) cat converters before the muffler. This is for a 90 Bronco with a 5
>liter. This part listed as a single unit from Ford and is NO LONGER
>available. Walker says they care a universal set of cat converters, but they
>ones I have found are NOT CORRECT.

Have you tried http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.discountconverter.com/ ? Worth a call, they have
a guy in parts who really seems to know his stuff.

Oh, and BTW, they list part # 9322

$192.95 for '87 to '90 Bronco FullSize
5.0. This is the one I bought for my '86 on their advice and it fitted
perfectly. They also do a nice performance Cat-Back for about $160 as I
recall. I mated all this with the Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers from
Whitney (CARB Numbered) and put the entire system in for about $600.
According to the numbers this will fit any Bronco from '86 through '90 -
possibly more.

Martin Horne
'86 Bronco
Long Island, NY

------------------------------

From: Sloanie977

aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 10:03:03 EST
Subject: steering columns

Hi,
I have a 1990 Ford 350 with a 460 engine. I'm looking for a diagram of
the trucks steering column. Its not in the repair manual that I have. Does
anyone know of any web sites out there that would have this information?
Thanks
Dennis Sloan

------------------------------

From: "John F Brock" ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Tie down points
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 09:54:58 -0500

Ok, this may sound like a dumb question....I'm a recent convert from a '95
Ram to a '95 F-150. The Dodge had some nice tie down lugs built into the
bottom of the bed. The Ford doesn't. I have a soft tonneau, so the stake
holes are covered. The question is...what do you guys do to overcome this?
Attach somes crew in lugs? I'd rather not drill holes, but if that's it I
guess I will.
John
'95 Lightning

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 11:04:38 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: AFTE and Pigeon Forge Lists

The AFTE and Pigeon Forge lists are back up.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 10:55:59 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: need information

Joel-
You will probably get a lot of help on this one. My comment is that the
things that tend to control load limit on these trucks is the axels/springs
that are installed. Don't forget brakes, either. This much load will take a
lot more caliper to stop.

When you overload a F-150 you put loads on the axels and bearings that is
beyond what they were designed for and they will eventually fail. Short
overloads are usually ok (but no promises). You will hear people tell you
how they overload their trucks for years and years, hauling hay or wood or
such, with no problems. The more you overload it, the further you haul it,
the faster you go, and the more often you do it, the more you are asking
for trouble.

Putting in the F-350 springs and axels would be a good idea. I do not think
there are any frame mods you can/should do. Others can comment.

Swapping out front axel to F-350 would also be a good adea, for bearings
and brakes you get. By the time you are done, you could have bought a 350?

At 22:11 12/02/00 -0600, you wrote:
>
>I have a 84 F-150HD SWB 4x4
>351W
>T-18
>Dana44TTB
>9" rear
>
>I am putting on a flat bed replacing my regular bed
>so I can drag a 5th wheel easier
>and have more room to haul stuff.
>
>my question is.
>I dont have the funds AT ALL to buy a 1-ton truck at all so please don't
say you need to get a bigger truck, because I can't.
>but my question is I need to know some ways to beef up the frame to have a
tougher truck for hauling big loads like a lot of hay(and yes hay does get
heavy)
>and tons of wood and other stuff

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 18:20:37 +0100 (CET)
From: Wojtek Wysocki serv.studiokwadrat.com.pl>
Subject: ez locker vs. powertrax help

Hi i plan to install rear div lock in my f-150 90 5.0 manual gear.
I need help witch?
I use my truck as daily driver but som times i go to the mud.

Now i thing about lock right power trax. Because when i
instal lock i must put out spiders gears, it is posible
that after time and miles as power trax get us up i lost posibility to
drive .
How about driving on hard surfaces??? Any noises, jerks.....
What hapends when i make sharp turns on hard surfaces???
it is posible to acidentally lock rear dif when i maken normal turn on
normal road????

any sugestion are welcome :->

Wojciech Wysocki
cyborg

studiokwadrat.com.pl

------------------------------

From: FLR150

aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 12:24:02 EST
Subject: Re: Help Finding Exhaust Parts

In a message dated 2/12/00 9:48:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, ACMERCG

aol.com
writes:

<< I remember someone one this list (Wayne?) saying BBK was building Y pipes
to
order for like $300. >>
Yep, that was me!!! =)
BBK has 2 different Y pipes available. 1 is the "LEGAL" style that comes with
the cat. It runs about $300. (Don't know the part# though) The other is the
"OFFROAD" version. It runs about $199. As far as I know they are still
producing them.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Flareside and
Ford Page

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 09:29:27 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: '86 1 bbl carb

Can someone with an '86 F150 I-6, describe to me what the part is
that is screwed into the right side, rear/top portion of the 1 bbl carb?
Who ever had this truck before me broke half off (I think) and inserted
a small screw into it. The portion that remains is white in color and
threaded into the carb and it's about 1/2" in diameter.
Thanks,
Chuck

Chuck Sanborn FCA# 07175
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint, 289 w/351W heads, etc
86 F150 300 cu in six banger (Hers)

------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONC

aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 12:43:18 EST
Subject: Re: '86 1 bbl carb

In a message dated 02/13/2000 10:29:57 AM Mountain Standard Time,
slammer

deltanet.com writes:

<< Can someone with an '86 F150 I-6, describe to me what the part is
that is screwed into the right side, rear/top portion of the 1 bbl carb?
Who ever had this truck before me broke half off (I think) and inserted
a small screw into it. The portion that remains is white in color and
threaded into the carb and it's about 1/2" in diameter.
Thanks,
Chuck >>
Sounds like the fitting for the hot-air tube that feeds the choke, assuming
you do not have an electric choke or it was converted to electric. If you
take the screw out and can detect a vacuum leak, then that's what it is.

------------------------------

From: LGRanch

aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 13:43:54 EST
Subject: Re: Help Finding Exhaust Parts

I am the orginal requester. On these parts.

I don't need the Y pipe. I need the twin cat converters with the ait tube. I
have had some suggestions that I have not had a chance to check out yet,

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 11:01:07 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: '86 1 bbl carb

At 12:43 PM 2/13/00 -0500, you wrote:

>Sounds like the fitting for the hot-air tube that feeds the choke, assuming
>you do not have an electric choke or it was converted to electric. If you
>take the screw out and can detect a vacuum leak, then that's what it is.
>==========================================================
FULSZ,
I thank you for that piece of information. I just went out and checked the
vacuum
pull with that screw out and it did indeed pull. Upon closer looks, it is
right in front
of the choke housing and is a part of that housing. I took out the funky
broken
plactic piece and replaced with an appropriate plug from my "spare carb
parts box".
Now the question(s) is/are: Does a vacuum hose come off of that fitting and
run to
the top of the air cleaner? And, do you know if that fitting would happen
to come
in a rebuild kit?
Thanks in advance,
Chuck

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 11:03:17 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: '86 1 bbl carb

At 12:43 PM 2/13/00 -0500, you wrote:
>, assuming
>you do not have an electric choke or it was converted to electric

Oh damn, it is an electric choke...now what?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 15:36:30 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Coil question

Gang-
Tell me, has anyone ever had a coil go bad on them and have it not totally
die, just run really poorly when hot? I am having this problem right now.
Engine runs great when started first thing in the morning. By the time I
get 2 miles from the house, it runs horribly. It feels like ignition; lots
of new parts on the ignition system, except the coil right now, and no
improvement.

I have always assumed that when a coil died, it died... and the truck would
not run. That's why I'm asking if anyone has had one kind of die a slow,
painful death instead, with lots of misfiring.

TIA.

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8

------------------------------

From: DTrowbridge

webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 15:45:54 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Gear ratios

does anyone know what the gear ratios arefor an 85 4 speed overdrive
manual tranny? i am loking at changing out the rear differential with a
friend, but need to know his gear ratios first so i can see if it would
benefit him at all. thanx.....

David
85 F-150 300 I6

------------------------------

From: DTrowbridge

webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 15:57:36 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Coil question

i have had a coil on a car of mine die a slow death. but it would just
spit and sputter under load regardless of engine temp. haven't had any
experiance with the truck's though.

David
85 F-150 300 I6

------------------------------

From: ACMERCG

aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 17:00:36 EST
Subject: Re: Coil question

In a message dated 02/13/2000 4:42:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jcannon.ne79

gtalumni.org writes:

<< I have always assumed that when a coil died, it died... and the truck would
not run. That's why I'm asking if anyone has had one kind of die a slow,
painful death instead, with lots of misfiring. >>

this is not totally true... It's called heat soaking... Chevy's have this
problem with the starter solenoids after the installation of headers
Change the coil.

Joe
Lost in jersey

------------------------------

From: MRStace84

aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 17:20:37 EST
Subject: Re: Coil question

In a message dated 2/13/00 4:42:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jcannon.ne79

gtalumni.org writes:

<< Tell me, has anyone ever had a coil go bad on them and have it not totally
die, just run really poorly when hot? I am having this problem right now.
Engine runs great when started first thing in the morning. By the time I
get 2 miles from the house, it runs horribly. It feels like ignition; lots
of new parts on the ignition system, except the coil right now, and no
improvement. >>

Jim,

I have had this problem twice, once with a brand new Duraspark 2 coil, and
also with a TFI-IV coil. The TFI-IV coil just started missing really bad
then completely died, not necessarly when, hot, but the D2 would start up
fine, then start running really bad, just as you described. I swapped it out
before it completely died, though I sure it would eventually have.

Stacy

84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4

------------------------------

From: Sloanie977

aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 17:58:02 EST
Subject: Re: Coil question

In a message dated 02/13/2000 4:42:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jcannon.ne79

gtalumni.org writes:

<< Tell me, has anyone ever had a coil go bad on them and have it not totally
die, >>
Hi,
I have always found that when they go they go. There's no inbetween.
They work or they don't work. Maybe you should look elsewhere.
Dennis

------------------------------

From: Lingus0169

aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 18:22:46 EST
Subject: Re: engine swap update

well, the engine swap is almost a success, if u dont remember, i was putting
a 82 351w from a bronco, into an 85 f150 wich had a 300 i6, everything is
hooked up mechanically, and electrically.I cranked it over for the first time
today and i heard the potential that the 351w had..I have a durasprk 3
ignition which needs the eec processor to be able to run. All i have to do
now is get that processor and install the radiator and i am set to take it
for its first test drive.. :-)
nick
85 f150
82 351w 4bbl
xl 4x4 4 spd

------------------------------

From: Lingus0169

aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 18:28:41 EST
Subject: Re: Retranny ???'s

hi, i have an 85 f150 4x4 xl (had a 300 i6) but i am putting a 351w in
it...i'd like to know what kind of tranny is in it..its a 4 speed w/ granny
gear a 9" out back and a dana 44 up front, a heavy duty 1/2 ton..some one
told me it had a BW-T 18(SOME ONE FROM THE LIST) well if that is truw, what
sort of transfer case does it have?
thankx
nick

------------------------------

From: "James" colstate.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 19:27:18 +0500
Subject: Rear disk brake conversion

Has anyone ever done a rear disk brake conversion on the 8.8 axle?

Thanks,
James H

------------------------------

From: WoodStck45

aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 20:50:39 EST
Subject: Truck Value?

Guys,

I am looking at buying a new truck and was wondering what you guys think it
is worth. It is a: 95 F-250 H.D., ex-cab, long bed, 60,000, 4X4, lockouts,
460, auto, XLT and Off Road package, pwr steering,pwr windows, pwr locks,
cruise, tilt, a/c, am/fm cassette, bedliner, 4 wheel ABS, dual tanks, tow
package, two-tone paint, and alloy wheels. Kelly blue book says its worth
$17,500. Does this sound correct? The dealer wants $21,500 for it. That
sound outrageous to me. Also, i was checking the prices on some other
trucks, and when i typed in the same things and listed above only put it as a
F-350, it says 4 wheel drive isn't an option. Is this true?

------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONC

aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 21:03:43 EST
Subject: Re: '86 1 bbl carb

Since it is an electric choke, ''don't worry, be happy!'' The port on your 1
bbl was designed to pull heated air off the exhaust manifold to hasten the
opening of the choke. It's not used on carbs with electric chokes (as per
the factory manual) so your carb must have been converted. If your electric
choke works OK, then you have nothing to fear.... ignore it.
Alex

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 20:55:13 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Truck Value?

WoodStck45

aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> I am looking at buying a new truck and was wondering what you guys think it
> is worth. It is a: 95 F-250 H.D., ex-cab, long bed, 60,000, 4X4, lockouts,
> 460, auto, XLT and Off Road package, pwr steering,pwr windows, pwr locks,
> cruise, tilt, a/c, am/fm cassette, bedliner, 4 wheel ABS, dual tanks, tow
> package, two-tone paint, and alloy wheels. Kelly blue book says its worth
> $17,500. Does this sound correct? The dealer wants $21,500 for it. That
> sound outrageous to me. Also, i was checking the prices on some other
> trucks, and when i typed in the same things and listed above only put it as a
> F-350, it says 4 wheel drive isn't an option. Is this true?
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 19:20:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Keith Lawyer yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help

--- Wojtek Wysocki serv.studiokwadrat.com.pl>
wrote:
> Hi i plan to install rear div lock in my f-150 90
> 5.0 manual gear. I need help witch?
> I use my truck as daily driver but som times i go to
> the mud.

Neither the Lock-Rite or EZLocker will hold up to
serious abuse in the mud. Light bogging, maybe, never
tried it and "light" is subjective of course. . .

> Now i thing about lock right power trax. Because
> when i instal lock i must put out spiders gears, it
>is posible that after time and miles as power trax
>get us up i lost posibility to drive .

Need a translator here, no clue what you're asking!

> How about driving on hard surfaces??? Any noises,
> jerks..... What hapends when i make sharp turns on
>hard surfaces???

You'll have a ratcheting sound around corners, and an
occassinal bang maybe. Basically the LockRite or
EZLocker will not allow either wheel to turn slower
than the driveshaft. So, if you coast thru corners
you're fine. If you gas it, the inside tire in the
turn will be forced to turn at the rate of the d/s and
thus squeal.

Keith L.

=====
'90 XLT/351/E4OD/4.56/33x12.50/10.25 rear+ARB
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" gte.net>
Subject: Re: Catalytic Perverter
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 22:55:07 -0600

On my 92, they took the front one off, made a two-into-one pipe, and a hi
flow in place of my rear cat.

This in response to a guy with a 5.0 Bronco. If you need the whole
crossover, I guess you are in bad shape! But I imagine a decent exhaust
shop can fix you up!

Dave H.
Houston

(PS: Do the cat, at 212k a new one helped my truck!)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 13:31:08 +0800
From: Larry Tan pworld.net.ph>
Subject: help, how to pinpoint problem in ABS box w/o scan tool

Dear Sirs,

Need your help,how do I pinpoint where the problem exactly is inside the
ABS box without a scan tool, Mr. Bob Kennnedy was kind enough to direct me
to a site dalidesign site unfortunately it does not show how it can be done
for the ABS box, it does show for the main box. Or it could be I missed the
other inside site. Anyway would appreciate any help how to ground or short
ABS box with out a scan tool to pinpoint where the problem is. Thanks

Sam

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 21:51:01 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help

I've got a Detroit Locker and 4.56s in my 8.8" I can say that the road
manners are different, but easily managed. I have not had problem one out
of it.

Bob

Wojtek Wysocki wrote:

> Hi i plan to install rear div lock in my f-150 90 5.0 manual gear.
> I need help witch?
> I use my truck as daily driver but som times i go to the mud.
>
> Now i thing about lock right power trax. Because when i
> instal lock i must put out spiders gears, it is posible
> that after time and miles as power trax get us up i lost posibility to
> drive .
> How about driving on hard surfaces??? Any noises, jerks.....
> What hapends when i make sharp turns on hard surfaces???
> it is posible to acidentally lock rear dif when i maken normal turn on
> normal road????
>
> any sugestion are welcome :->
>
> Wojciech Wysocki
> cyborg

studiokwadrat.com.pl
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar

ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: "Phil & Debi" stargate.net>
Subject: Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 01:10:48 -0500

> I've got a Detroit Locker and 4.56s in my 8.8" I can say that the road
> manners are different, but easily managed. I have not had problem one out
> of it.
>
I am considering putting the detroit locker in my 8.8 but was concerned how
it would handle on snow and icy roads. Have you driven it in snow? how was
it cornering on icy roads?

Phil Beattie
66 F100
70 F100
91 F150 4x4
www.geocities.com/imstobu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 22:34:50 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help

It'll index as long as you let of the gas. It's design is great, once you learn
that throttle means both wheels turning, you'll be OK.

I have played with it in the snow, when you get off the gas and then back on
it'll tug on you. Just feather the throttle.

It's the same in the turns. You take it easy, the Detroit will take it easy.
You throttle it, Detroit says,'I gotcha'.

Bob

Phil & Debi wrote:

> > I've got a Detroit Locker and 4.56s in my 8.8" I can say that the road
> > manners are different, but easily managed. I have not had problem one out
> > of it.
> >
> I am considering putting the detroit locker in my 8.8 but was concerned how
> it would handle on snow and icy roads. Have you driven it in snow? how was
> it cornering on icy roads?
>
> Phil Beattie
> 66 F100
> 70 F100
> 91 F150 4x4
> www.geocities.com/imstobu
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar

ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 09:13:11 +0100 (CET)
From: Wojtek Wysocki serv.studiokwadrat.com.pl>
Subject: Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help

> > Now i thing about lock right power trax. Because
> > when i instal lock i must put out spiders gears, it
> >is posible that after time and miles as power trax
> >get us up i lost posibility to drive .
>
> Need a translator here, no clue what you're asking!
OK i try. :-> sorry for my english.
how long will it work???

Wojciech Wysocki
cyborg

studiokwadrat.com.pl

BTW: Wht do You thing about detroit gearless lock???

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 21:32:25 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: need information

Hi Joel,
The comments by Jim Cannon are quite correct as usual, the component that will break in the 9" Diff is the axle. The springs can be beefed up, air bag
assistance can be installed, heavier ply tyres can be used, but none of this will save the 9" axle. When the axle decides to let go, it will be the most
inconvenient & embarrassing place possible. That's Murphy's Law #6.
Aha ... I know what you thinking 'I'll pop it into 4wheel drive and crawl home that way' If you are real lucky the axle will snap just behind the collar and
the wheel complete with brake drum will part company with you. Been there and just done that!! You won't believe how much collateral damage it can cause.
BTW: I do like the 9" rear ends so don't think I'm dumping on them, but they were not designed to handle extreme loads.

regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

Joel Thomas wrote:

> I have a 84 F-150HD SWB 4x4
> 351W
> T-18
> Dana44TTB
> 9" rear
>
> I am putting on a flat bed replacing my regular bed
> so I can drag a 5th wheel easier
> and have more room to haul stuff.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 21:32:42 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: Instrument clusters Part II

> Hi Les,
> Which side of the cab is the steering wheel on? I really don't know much
> about
> where your Ford Trucks come from, but I'm sure you can enlighten us. Are
> they the same configurations as what we drive in the States? Our friends to
> the North use KPH speedo's, so there may be a source on this list for a good
> used one if they are compatible.
>
> << What's that old saying about Chrome? If it don't go, Chrome it!! >>
>
> More like: "chrome don't get you home"
> Alex

Hi Alex,
Good to hear from you. I hadn't thought of that angle. I did enquire about
Autometer speedo units from the OZ agent, Rocket Industries, and the first thing
said to me was 'No KPH speedo heads' How did he know what the next question was
going to be??
Then SVO parts would be even harder to come by, but maybe we will see what
develops. When I do rebuild the instrument cluster, I would like to make sure the
the speedo is directly in front, not offset to the left so the steering wheel
covers all figures up to about 120 kph. I suspect , in it's LHD position, it is
better positioned.
The steering wheel is on the 'right side' of the truck, and where and how F's get
into OZ was, and still is a bit of a mystery to me too.
For quite a number of years Ford did assemble units in OZ. I believe, talking to
more experienced people than I, cab/chassis were imported from the canadian plant,
but I suspect at this point it could be any ford plant. If they are assembled in
OZ, in relationship to my '85, the only thing in common with your trucks seems to
be the body panels, dash components, chassis, front & rear suspension. Obviously
the steering box, and steering linkages has to be a rhd unit, If auto, the
steering column and controls seem to be modified units from the Falcon/Fairlane OZ
cars. As for engines, if it's a V8, it will be more than likely a Cleveland etc.
This doesn't count the direct imports that are converted to rhd. The 'F' series
trucks in OZ is only a niche market now, and are not assembled in OZ anymore, as
far as I know. The only way to get a new F150 is to import & convert.

The big problem we have is spare parts. The easiest, two word description is
'Expensive Nightmare', especially if it is anything to do with non engine parts.
Every model seems to have at least 3 parts listed, Oz assembled, Canadian, USA
parts, and some OEM. Don't even bother to try and order a tie-rod end over the
phone, be sure to take a sample.
The ford dealer will charge you $1300 for a 9" axle, $200 for the w/bearing and
collar, OEM suppliers ? $400, complete.
Since being on this list, I have purchased a technical book or too, regarding
'85's or there abouts F's and since these are US publications, chapters about
engines, fuel system, half of the electrics, and the pollution controls etc are
almost irrelevant to my '85 F100. Using the OZ built XD/ZJ Falcon/Fairlane V8
workshop manual will help to fill in the gaps. There is a book or two dedicated to
F's in OZ, but I feel they are rather lite weight in substance. I only bought the
US books so I could work out what the hell some of the things you guy's were
talking about. Some things are just not used by Ford down here, but then you
missed out on the Ford installed Thermo Quad carby, I bet your wishing you had
them too!!, ... NOT ....

Oh Yeah, It can be real Fun, and you need to be enthusiastic to run an 'F' truck
down here. Less kind people call it 'standing out in the sun too long' - your not
thinking straight - it's not worth the trouble!!!
When you see a truck, you can assume nothing about what may be under the hood,
opening up can reveal anything from a 250cid 6 pack, 300 I-6's, 302/351
Cleveland's & Windsor's, right up to 460cid's, and I have even seen an all ally
600cid. (on Propane of course) This doesn't even cover the diesel installs that I
have heard about, like turbo Isuzu's, Perkins and even a Lite (??) Cat
transplanted engines.

If you have to pay dealer prices on repairs, you realize very quickly that it is
not a sustainable situation, unless of course you have very deep pockets. If you
can tell the difference between a cold chisel and a screwdriver, and know which
end, of which one, to use to adjust the carby with, then go for it and have FUN
!!!

<> Hmmm, Yes, very good. ;-))

regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Choke Thermostats 101
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 07:05:52 -0500

Well, I spent the afternoon Sunday monkeying with the stupid choke on the
stupid Holley on the stupid......anyway I made a mistake in my last post on
this, the thermostat has 12-15 ohms, not Kohms. Hope I didn't mess anyone
up with that little booboo......read the meter wrong, sorry :-( Temp makes
a huge difference in the readings too which explains why I got 10 the first
time and 15 later. You can also put a volt meter on the terminal with power
on and watch the voltage chage as the element heats up..... interesting :-)

Here's what I found.....the Holley unit has 15 ohms depending on how you
hold your little finger.....or 10 or 12 or.....I finally settled on 15 for
that one and the replacement Motorcraft was 20-21 ohms which was a step in
the right direction I figured so for $28 I picked one up along with a
ballast resistor for another $3.98. They had three of these with different
part numbers but they looked identical so I got out my trusty Multimeter and
checked and sure enough they were different resistances: 0.7, 1.6 and 2.0
ohms. I took the .7 one to start with and it made about a 2v change in the
available power to the choke cap, measured at the terminal with power on.
The battery read about 12.7v, the Holley cap read about 11.2v between the
terminal and the neg batt post, and the Motorcraft replacement (not
motorcraft brand) read about 9.7v.

The holley choke was going off in about 1.5-2 minutes which was way too fast
and all the electronic resistors I had were way too high a value and when
used in parallel batches to reduce the ohms they got way too hot so the
ballast resistor is the way to go for this project, absolutely no doubt
there :-) The replacement unit by itself went off in about 4 minutes and
with the ballast resistor the time was increases substantially but I didn't
really measure it.....guessing about 7 minutes for full off position or so.

What all this means is that the choke will now come off in the coldest
weather in about 7 minutes which is just about perfect to keep the bronco
happy at stop lights etc. when cold where before I had to knock it out of
gear, coast up to the car in front of me with one foot on the brake and one
on the gas to keep it from stalling....BUMMERBUMMERBUMMER!!!! This should
translate to about half of that in the summer with no adjustments which
should work well I think. I can also adjust the richness of it by rotating
the cap quite a bit and the pulloff (integral) still pulls it off far enough
to run well. It turns out that these units have a heating element in them
rather than using the spring as I originally thought. The spring is not
supposed to be part of the electrical circuit in the system but is affected
by the heat generated by the metal plate it is attached to which is a "heat
sink" to the heating element in the cap. On the Holley unit there was a
ground effect via the sping which shorted the element, possibly by design
but what ever the case it acted way too fast.

This was an interesting experiment and I learned a lot and wanted to share
my findings with the group(s) in case anyone else was struggling with this
problem. I did have to modify the Holley lever to accomodate the motorcraft
replacement because the replacement fits into a slot and the holley is a
loop that fits over the arm, other than that they are interchangeable. The
holley unit also has two terminals, one for ground and the replacement has
the traditional metal strip on the cap which is grounded to the retainer
ring. Tonight will be the acid test as my first stop light is about 2
minutes from the parking lot and then there are two more about 1 minute
apart which was the perfectly wrong scenerio for the old choke setup, I'll
keep y'all posted :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

------------------------------

From: "Alger, Timothy, , AF/TBA" pentagon.af.mil>
Subject: center cap
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 07:13:59 -0500

Anyone
I had one of my center caps stolen off of my 86 Ford F150 the other
night. Does anyone have a spare cap they would like to sell. If so contact
me off the list at timothy.alger

pentagon.af.mil

thanks
Tim

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: need information
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 08:25:00 -0500

I was going to say this too....if you are that broke you can't afford dana
70 axles either :-( You can buy a whole, rusty f350 for less than $1000 and
swap any parts you need to to get it back in shape. By the time you get all
the parts you need to make the truck reliable you will have that much
invested. BTDT!

My 78 will haul 2 tons but not easily nor are tires readily available for
this format with sufficient weight capacity. The ford 9" is a very strong
axle.......in it's own field of use but you are asking more than it can
give, reliably.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>When you overload a F-150 you put loads on the axels and
>bearings that is
>beyond what they were designed for and they will eventually fail. Short
>
>Swapping out front axel to F-350 would also be a good adea,
>for bearings
>and brakes you get. By the time you are done, you could have
>bought a 350?

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Coil question
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 08:42:10 -0500

Are you sure it is the coil? These symptoms can be caused by any number of
other problems as well. This is a common failure mode of modern modules but
coils don't usually go bad like they used to back in the old days. Metal
moves as it heats up and gaskets and valves that seal when cold can open up
when hot causing all manner of greif. Does it also run poorly when wet?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Gang-
>Tell me, has anyone ever had a coil go bad on them and have it
>not totally
>die, just run really poorly when hot? I am having this problem

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Clunking 4R70W
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 08:35:12 -0500

Bauman Engineering has an upgrade version of this valve which is supposed to
be an improvement in both performance and life. I just sent my check for
the two valves I need for the bird :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>covering it. It is caused by scoring in the 1-2 accumulator, which can
>be replaced without tearing it down. I haven't taken care of it yet,

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: ez locker vs. powertrax help
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 08:59:54 -0500

I was wishing I had lockers this morning as I tried to get to work in the
slush left by the county salt trucks. Even in 4wd one tire on each axle
found enough grease to slip making it like a 2wd under power. Lockers would
have given me much more traction in that condition for sure and it has just
move up on my list of priorities :-)

The Cheap, solid lockers don't impress me or interest me at all but I have a
quandry over the Detroit soft locker and the auburn or Trac-loc or even the
True-Trac. Of course the Torsen would be my first choice if the price
wasn't so high and since you usually do coast around curves and corners
rather than power around them the detroit might actually be a possibility
even in snow and ice since most traction needs occur when accellerating in a
straight line. I've used the arguement of ice before but in retrospect, how
often do you actually apply power in a curve or turn on ice? Even with no
lockers? That would actually be pretty foolish if you stop and think about
it unless you are ice racing.......

Probably the most bang for the buck for most applications other than reall
off road stuff would be the Auburn LS. A properly preloaded Traction loc
would work pretty well too and is a little cheaper but for mud I understand
these are more or less useless? At least for mud competition or bogging
etc. because they don't absolutely lock both axles which is what you need in
mud. Since mud is not high on my list I think the traction loc would do me
quite well on ice and snow.......but the detroit has a nice ring to it too
:-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Now i thing about lock right power trax. Because when i
>instal lock i must put out spiders gears, it is posible
>that after time and miles as power trax get us up i lost posibility to
>drive .
>How about driving on hard surfaces??? Any noises, jerks.....
>What hapends when i make sharp turns on hard surfaces???
>it is posible to acidentally lock rear dif when i maken normal turn on
>normal road????

------------------------------

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