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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Thu, 13 Apr 2000 07:52:33 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 07:52:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #59
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Wed, 12 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 059

In This Issue:
Fw: Need more power
Michelins
Removing wheel locks
Re: Brakes
Re: Michelins
power brakes; rear disc swap
Re: Detonation problems and thanks
Re: Removing wheel locks
347 Stroker
Re: Lower Rad Hose Problem & HP Rating
Re: 347 stroker
Re: pre-luber
Re: 347 Stroker
Re: 347 stroker
Re: 347 Stroker
Engine Color
Re: Removing wheel locks
Inst panel removal
ADMIN: Ford employee in Atlanta?
Engine Color
Re: Removing wheel locks
Re: Inst panel removal
Re: Engine Color
Re: Inst panel removal
Re: Inst panel removal
Re: Removing wheel locks

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mike Jensen" flash.net>
Subject: Fw: Need more power
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 23:20:28 -0500



----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Jensen
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2000 10:35 PM
Subject: Need more power


i just bought a 93 diesel 350 CC SRW 5sp. i got it to pull my 9000 lb 5th wheel. On our first trip, the performance was terrible. My 99 Z71 seems to pull it better! On slight hills, it slows to 60, on the flat, I can just get it up to 70. Throttle is floored all the time. Milleage was 9 mpg. Any ideas on how to boost power. Thinking of a Banks or AT turbo, but don't really want to spend $2500. Anyone had luck with turbos? Any other ideas?

Thanks

Mike



------------------------------

From: "Harris, Scott" dfwairport.com>
Subject: Michelins
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 22:44:35 -0500

Steve,
I run the LTX AT's on my 150 and am real pleased with them on the street as
well as the dirt. They are holding up real well in reference to wear and
that right tire Ford wear has not been that big a hassle as with the less
aggressive tread.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 21:56:35 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Removing wheel locks

At least this does not involve computers or electronics.....Whew!
Is there a simple way to remove locking lug nuts, or do I just
break the sucker with a ton or torque? Or a nut cracker.
Hmmm, I haven't bought a new tool in quite some time now.....
This cheepie truck was gotten from an auction and it has custom
rims with locks. Of course there is no key so I was wondering
if there is a simple solution, other than brute force.
I don't mind that part and I guess I could press out the old and
press in the new using a big socket and a big C-clamp.
Thanks,
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
86 F150 300 cu in six banger


------------------------------

From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr." exit109.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 01:09:42 -0400

Joe,

Get yourself two flathead screwdrivers, one small and one large, and get
to the back of the drum brake setup. There's a hole where you can access
the star spinner to adjust the brakes. Use the big screwdriver to figure
out which way the spinner will turn. That's the direction to "tighten" the
brakes, so you'll want to turn it in the other direction. Use the small
screwdriver to pry away the plate pressing up against the spinner and back
the thing off. Once the brakes are nice and un-adjusted, the drum should
slide right off with no problems.
Good luck.

-Mike

--------------------
From: BanksRVA aol.com
Hey Folks,
I recently aquired an 82 Econoline 350. I need inspect the rear brakes. How
do i get the drum off? I removed the axle bolts and pulled the axle piece
out, but I don't see how it is held on. Is there a special socket I need to
remove some nut there?
Thanks in advance,
Joe




------------------------------

From: "Kevin Tansey" achs.org>
Subject: Re: Michelins
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 00:06:44 -0700

My `95 F150 has the Michelin X radials, the suck balls, but have a wider
tread pattern then most tires of the same width, but that also makes them
shorter tires for the same size...traction isn't bad, but they dont do jack
in the dirt

-Kevin

----- Original Message -----
From: "Harris, Scott" dfwairport.com>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 8:44 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Michelins


> Steve,
> I run the LTX AT's on my 150 and am real pleased with them on the street
as
> well as the dirt. They are holding up real well in reference to wear and
> that right tire Ford wear has not been that big a hassle as with the less
> aggressive tread.
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 04:10:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zachary Colvin yahoo.com>
Subject: power brakes; rear disc swap

I was just wondering what it would be like to swap in
an aftermarket master cylinder without the power brake
booster. I have never driven a truck without power
brakes (although I have driven tractors with
mechanical brakes), and I was wondering if I really
need that booster. My biggest beef against the
booster is that it runs on vacuum, and is almost non
exist when I have no vacuum. Maybe I could swap
something in from a diesel truck?
Bottom line is, do I really need power brakes?
Also, if I were to swap in rear disc brakes, what kind
of master cylinder would I have to swap in?

1980 Ford F-150 4X4
300 I6, T18 manual
Driven daily

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites.
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------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 07:41:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Detonation problems and thanks

Gang,
Well, I want to thank all of you that sat and helped me with online Q and A
sessions trying to get my gremlins worked out. Mark, Sal, Kyle, Dave P, Tim,
Mike and finally Jeff Sparkman and Tracy. Jeff and Trace are going HUH? To
make it short, I had some electronic problems which the guys helped me with,
after that I had a mechanical problem that Jeff and Trace unknowingly helped
me with. Jeff will remember that at Ennis he was having a detonation problem
that he was pulling his hair out over. After swapping chips a couple of times
and them backing off boost timing, Trace had an idea to brace his "home made"
intake tube setup. And it worked. Well, with me remembering others headaches
to try and avoid them myself, said what the heck and braced my rubber intake
45 degree boot, and TADA, no more detonation. So from a sideways look at it,
I have Trace to thank. If she hadn't pulled one in from left field, I never
would have thought to do that, especially since I did think I was pulling
enough air to collapse that tube. Anyway, thanks to all that helped, and to
all that saw me beating my head on the hood trying to figure out why I was
going so slow at SBSO, I AM BACK!!! Be looking forward to seeing the list
guys here in Atlanta over the weekend for FFW.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 08:27:51 -0400
From: Martin Horne optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Removing wheel locks

Chuck,
JC Whitney has a new item, part # 07PD5107A that they say will "easily
removed damaged or locked lug nuts without a key". Looks like a kind of
"inside-out" stud extractor. Says it fits from 3/4" to 1" outside diameter.
Not cheap at $40, but looks like it would save a lot of aggravation. If the
wheels are steel brute force would work, but alloys you stand a real risk
of damaging the wheel. I had the pleasure of taking a tour of McGard in
upstate NY some years back and know just how tough thay make their locks.
It may be worth checking with them to see if the original owner bothered to
register the locks. You send them the VIN and if they have it on file they
sell you a key for approx $20 as I recall.

Hope this helps


At 09:56 PM 4/11/00 -0700, you wrote:
>At least this does not involve computers or electronics.....Whew!
>Is there a simple way to remove locking lug nuts, or do I just
>break the sucker with a ton or torque? Or a nut cracker.
>Hmmm, I haven't bought a new tool in quite some time now.....
>This cheepie truck was gotten from an auction and it has custom
>rims with locks. Of course there is no key so I was wondering
>if there is a simple solution, other than brute force.
>I don't mind that part and I guess I could press out the old and
>press in the new using a big socket and a big C-clamp.
>Thanks,
>Chuck Sanborn
>Torrance, CA
>86 F150 300 cu in six banger

Martin Horne
'86 Bronco
Long Island, NY

------------------------------

From: johnhfleming juno.com
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 05:47:58 -0700
Subject: 347 Stroker

In reply to about 4 different posts from group members;


Thanks for all the input. The same day I read Waynes reply one of my Ford
Fanatic buddies told me the same thing about the 347 as compared to the
331. I had a deal lined up on a 347 kit w/steel crank and HP rods etc for
about $500. cheaper than a catalog kit.

As for stroking the beast; I need more ponies. The little 5.0 pulls
around a long bed supercab with 33" tires and I tow toys to the desert on
occasion. I had a 4.56 r/p put in but the 5.0 is so tired that it didn't
make much difference. I think it would be fun to build and I can use all
the components off the original motor so no potential problems with the
great state of California about illegal goodies or modifications to my
vehicle.

I can also use slightly larger injectors to compensate for the fuel
needs.

Thanks, again

John

________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 08:47:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Lower Rad Hose Problem & HP Rating

> Question 1
>
> I recently had the water pump on my '83 F100 302 replaced at the local
> Ford
> dealer and wanted to also replace both rad hoses. The upper was no
> proplem
> but Ford no longer listed a lowerr hose. The mechanic tried a number of
> aftermarket hoses but they did not fit right. When installed, unlike the
> original, they all layed on top of the ajustment nut on the steering box
> which would have very quickly rubed a hole through it!
>
> So can anyone suggest a solution other than a "universal" type hose?

Whenever I encounter this problem I try to make the available part
work and sometimes it works better than an OEM part.

Why not cap the steering nut/stud w/say a carb vacuum
cap(rubber) and cut a piece of the old hose and wrap it around the
new hose in the rubbing area and tape/tie it in place. That way you
have converted it to a rubber-rubber contact point. Lasts for years.

Danny
fitz011 ev1.net

------------------------------

From: "Vic Erwin" webdigs.com>
Subject: Re: 347 stroker
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 09:15:36 -0500

I agree with Mark on both the mass air, and the stock
Mustang cam as its very torquey. There may be some other off
the shelf grinds that'll work well, but I'm only familiar
with the speed parts.

Super Ford usually runs an ad from a company that offers a
mass air conversion for something like $580. The stock EFI
won't run well with a drastic change to CID.

As for doing the 347, it may be lots cheaper than a 351w
swap (which I plan on doing). It's also a well proven combo
in many fast Mustangs.

-Vic
90 F150
86 XJ6
87 RX-7
79 CP Mustang
97 Buell S1


------------------------------

From: "Rat Man" raex.com>
Subject: Re: pre-luber
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 11:26:58 -0400


First off hello there everyone,
I am usually just a lurker but I thought I would respond to this one.
Del, the commercially available pre lubers all have a valve similar to what you are looking for, either mechanical or electrical,
What makes them work so well however, is the tank itself, it usually will have a bladder in it.This is what makes them retain the pressure in sufficient volumes for a pre lube situation. Its very similar to a older water well pump tank many people have in the basement of their homes. IMHO you would be better off to buy the real deal in this situation.

Later
Ratman
'94 XLT 4x4

Del Sharp wrote:
>
> Greetings:
>
> I am in the process of installing a pre-luber. I bought a 1 1/2 quart wet
> sump canister from Summit Racing made by Moroso. I am looking for some kind
> of valve that I can open and close electrically by a manual switch. Then,
> before I shut off the motor, I will close the valve, locking the oil
> pressure in the wet sump can which I can release back into the system prior
> to restarting the engine. The valve may be harder to come by than I thought,
> unless some of you can point me to one. Thanks.
>




------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 11:43:28 EDT
Subject: Re: 347 Stroker

In a message dated 4/12/00 8:44:13 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
johnhfleming juno.com writes:

<< As for stroking the beast; I need more ponies. The little 5.0 pulls
around a long bed Supercab with 33" tires and I tow toys to the desert on
occasion. I had a 4.56 r/p put in but the 5.0 is so tired that it didn't
make much difference. I think it would be fun to build and I can use all
the components off the original motor so no potential problems with the
great state of California about illegal goodies or modifications to my
vehicle. >>
John,
On the tired little 5.0 issue, my 125K mile 5.0 in a Supercab Flareside, puts
out close to 230 to the rear wheels on motor, compared to 100 stock, and
almost 320 on the spray to the wheels. It may have some miles, but tired mine
is not. Top of the motor has been into several times, the bottom has never
been touched, stock as the day Ford put it together.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 11:48:27 EDT
Subject: Re: 347 stroker

In a message dated 4/12/00 10:14:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, vicwebdigs.com
writes:

<< As for doing the 347, it may be lots cheaper than a 351w
swap (which I plan on doing). It's also a well proven combo
in many fast Mustangs.
>>
BUT the problem with that is, how often are those fast stangs on the street
actually being driven? The second point is our trucks out weigh the stangs by
almost double. Load=Heat=Stress on components=dead motor in a short time. I
have done the race based research, for me to use the 347 as a track only
motor in a similar truck to mine, great no problem. Using it as a DD and AS a
truck, wouldn't last me 6 months, especially in stop and go Atlanta area
traffic.
MNSHO,
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: Greg Carter entrust.com>
Subject: Re: 347 Stroker
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 12:52:06 -0400

Hi,
Just one thing to watch out for when buying a crank, although it may well be
a forged crank a lot of the manufactures offer both US made and Chinese made
cranks (Eagle and Scat as examples). The Chinese made ones are the cheaper
cranks. As well as being cheaper to buy they are cheaply made.

My engine builder stressed to stay away from any Chinese made cranks, as
well when I asked RaceParts Distribution about the Chinese made Scat cranks
they replied with "We don't mess with that crap.". However I did buy a Scat
US made crank from RaceParts ($1600) for a 351 stroker I am having built.

My point? You may be better off with just a stock crank anyway (or at least
cast iron anyway) than a cheaply made steel crank for your application.
Good luck.
Bye.

Greg Carter
Entrust Technologies - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.entrust.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/buildup/dana60.html

-----Original Message-----
From: johnhflemingjuno.com [mailto:johnhflemingjuno.com]

331. I had a deal lined up on a 347 kit w/steel crank and HP rods etc for
about $500. cheaper than a catalog kit.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 15:46:36 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Engine Color

Was the engine in the 4.9L, 1986 F150, painted grey?
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint
1986 F150 six banger (Hers)


------------------------------

From: SlamedF150aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 21:34:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Removing wheel locks

it depends what kind of lug it is......., if it the kind that looks like an 8
sided star and 1/2 " breaker bar will fit right in there, but the other kinds
out there need the key or an key replacement from jc witney

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 18:42:04 -0700
From: Chris McKinnon cnx.net>
Subject: Inst panel removal

What is the secret to removing the knobs on the headlight and wiper swiches?
I seem like some special tool might be needed. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Chris
'84 F150 w/ original rust!
351W on propane
NP 435
NP 208 3.50LS
291K Km


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 22:16:37 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Ford employee in Atlanta?

If anyone on the lists is a Ford employee in the Atlanta
area, please contact me at kpayneford-trucks.com. I'm
hoping to arrange an FTE member tour of the Atlanta plant
in July or August.

Thanks,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts




------------------------------

From: Lingus0169aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 22:41:03 EDT
Subject: Engine Color

yes, your 4.9L 300 engine was painted grey
nick
82 351w
85 f150 4x4 4sp
82 300 i6 3sp

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 19:44:36 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Removing wheel locks

At 09:34 PM 4/12/00 -0400, you wrote:
>it depends what kind of lug it is......., if it the kind that looks like an 8
>sided star and 1/2 " breaker bar will fit right in there, but the other kinds
>out there need the key or an key replacement from jc witney

Damn.....the end is a recessed rectangle with a smaller rectangle protrusion
in the center. Maybe the local tire store can do it.

Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
86 F150 300 cu in six banger


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 19:45:38 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Inst panel removal

At 06:42 PM 4/12/00 -0700, you wrote:
>What is the secret to removing the knobs on the headlight and wiper swiches?

I'm waitin on this answer too :-)


Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
86 F150 300 cu in six banger


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 19:46:33 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Color

At 10:41 PM 4/12/00 -0400, you wrote:
>yes, your 4.9L 300 engine was painted grey
>nick

Thanks Nick!
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
86 F150 300 cu in six banger


------------------------------

From: Lingus0169aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 22:52:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Inst panel removal

well, there is a peice of metal behind the knob, u need a little screw driver
and put a piece of metal towards the seat, the more u pull on the knob, the
tighter it will become,rememeber that...
nick

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 19:58:16 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Inst panel removal

At 10:52 PM 4/12/00 -0400, you wrote:
>well, there is a peice of metal behind the knob, u need a little screw driver
>and put a piece of metal towards the seat, the more u pull on the knob, the
>tighter it will become,rememeber that...
>nick

OK, thanks

Chuck


------------------------------

From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" home.com>
Subject: Re: Removing wheel locks
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 07:42:49 -0500


----- Original Message -----
From: "chuck sanborn" deltanet.com>
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Removing wheel locks


Damn.....the end is a recessed rectangle with a smaller rectangle protrusion
in the center.

Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
86 F150 300 cu in six banger

Chuck,
Thanks for the lesson! These things usually never occur to me till it's too
late. (duh) If I EVER buy a vehicle w/mags, I'll make sure the 'KEY' is
included.
Smeck
Baton Rouge, LA
87 F150 302EFI T18


------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #59
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