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Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Thu, 06 Apr 2000 00:11:13 -0400 (EDT) Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 00:11:13 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #54 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Tue, 04 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 054 In This Issue: sender for temp gauge Re: fuel filter removal Airbag Re: Tailgate Up? Or Tailgate Down? Re: Electrical Problems Re: Electrical Problems Tailgate up/down Re: Electrical Problems Sigh.... Re: Electrical Problems Re: Tailgate Up? Or Tailgate Down? Toe-in Setting Re: Tailgate Up? Or Tailgate Down? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 03:44:41 -0500 Subject: sender for temp gauge From: Robert M Sands I had to replace the head gasket on my 92 300-I6 awhile back. You'll find the sender unit for the gauge tucked behind the exhaust manifold, on the backside (firewall) of engine. And yes I changed mine when it was out in the open and easy to get to. I got the OEM from the Ford dealer. Good Luck, Mike S. From: "James Hannon" Subject: Temperature Sending Unit Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 16:27:52 -0500 Hi All, I have a 92 F-150 with a straight 6 300 4x4 and I'm having a problem finding the temp. sending unit for the temperature gage. In my shop manual it shows it to be to the left of the oil filter, but when I went to the auto parts store the sender they tried to sell me was smaller and had only one pin. The unit onthe block has two. Another auto parts store sold me one to replace the sender on the thermostat housing, but I'm not sure if thats the unit for the gage. Can someone tell me which sender is for the gage and where I can find the right one? Thanks, Jim Hannon 1992 F-150 Super Cab 4x4 ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: RobSweed aol.com Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 17:33:42 EDT Subject: Re: fuel filter removal I had the same problem with mine (same truck). I bought a set of those tools your talking about and used the next smaller one. Also had to push it in with a twisting motion. I worked out a simple system to remove the filter because the order which we would normally think to do it just does not work. No give in the lines and no room next to the tank. 1. Locate the bolt(s) (can't remember if it's 1 or 2 bolts) that that holds the filter bracket to the frame. It is much longer than necessary and will make it difficult to remove the filter and bracket between tank and frame. Leave the nuts (on frame side) on and cut the bolt leaving several threads showing, file smooth and remove nut. Now you will have room to move filter around. If you try to remove filter from bracket (which is very hard to due, I had to put mine in a bench vise and used 2 large screwdrivers) the bracket will keep the filter from moving enough to release the fuel lines. 2. Remove fuel line with special tool (I forget the name). Try using smaller one with a twisting motion. Plug the rear line with a rubber hose and bolt. Or have a pan ready, don't smoke and make sure your life and fire insurance is paid up. 3. Remove fitter and bracket together as it is almost impossible to separate them while working under the vehicle. good luck, Bob Sweed 94 F-150 4X4 SC 5.0 E4OD ------------------------------ From: RobSweed aol.com Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 17:34:02 EDT Subject: Airbag Does anyone know a safe method of disabling an airbag? I carry a lot of tools and equipment in the back-seat of my SC and have no place for two car seats for my kids It is recommended, and I concur, that it is not safe for a child to be located in the seat next to an airbag. In this case the middle jump seat next to me. The airbag law allows you to disconnect the airbag if there is no other place to seat a child. Several web sites offer instructions for what I consider to be exorbitant amount of money. Ford dealers, while they are allowed to do it, refuse fearing liability issues. Any advise is appreciated. Bob Sweed 94 F-150 4X4 SC 5.0 E4OD ------------------------------ From: RobSweed aol.com Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 17:33:43 EDT Subject: Re: Tailgate Up? Or Tailgate Down? Driving with the tailgate down will increase your mileage. It will also cause your P/U bed to fail prematurely. The sides of the bed are supported at the back by the tailgate preventing from moving from side to side. If you don't carry 4X8 sheets of plywood you can make brackets (they may be available commercially for this purpose) going from the top rear of the bed to the floor to keep it stiff. Or you can buy a replacement gate that looks like a grill allowing air to pass through. Bob Sweed 94 F-150 4X4 SC 5.0 E4OD ------------------------------ From: BanksRVA aol.com Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 21:31:12 EDT Subject: Re: Electrical Problems I hope someone can help me with problems I can't seem to solve relating to my 82 E350 dash lights. Here's the list of them: 1: When I turn the wipers on, they won't work, but the blinkers and high beam lights light up. 2: When the hazards are turned on, the high beam indicator blinks, not the blinkers. 3: I have no reverse lights, does anyone know where the reverse light switch is? No power is going to the reverse lights so I'm banking on the the switch. Thanks in advance! Joe ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 18:37:22 -0700 From: chuck sanborn Subject: Re: Electrical Problems At 09:31 PM 4/4/00 -0400, you wrote: >I hope someone can help me with problems I can't seem to solve relating to my >82 E350 dash lights. The first thing I think you should relay to the list is letting us know if you have been doing any work on the car and more specifically, under the dash. You may get a better response that way. Good luck, Chuck ------------------------------ From: "Dave Harmier" Subject: Tailgate up/down Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 20:29:54 -0500 Down always seems better to me. I have a loose rubber mat over a piece of plywood in my '92 work truck. Gate up rolls that mat up towards the front. Gate down never does, and the bed is pretty clean of leaves and stuff. As to mileage, I can't say for certain, but without that turbulence, I GOTTA think it's better!!!! Dave H. Houston 90 F-350 Crew LB 7.3 E4OD Knapheide service body liftgate (The BEAST) 91 F-150 SC LB 5.8 E4OD Gas Hog (Dads) 92 F-150 SC SB 5.0 E4OD My service truck (to be Sisters) ------------------------------ From: BanksRVA aol.com Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 22:38:38 EDT Subject: Re: Electrical Problems In a message dated 4/4/00 9:37:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, slammer deltanet.com writes: << hope someone can help me with problems I can't seem to solve relating to my >82 E350 dash lights. The first thing I think you should relay to the list is letting us know if you have been doing any work on the car and more specifically, under the dash. >> When I bought the van ($150!) the electrical was screwy. I transplanted a 351W for the 400 that was in there. Alot of stuff was cut or unplugged but I got everything working on the outside (headlights, brakelights,etc.). The wipers were working, but stopped for no apparent reason. Now the blinkers are lighting up screwy and the fuel and temp guage are reading high when the blinkers are turned on. When you shut the blinkers off, the guages go back to normal. Joe ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 21:41:49 -0700 From: chuck sanborn Subject: Sigh.... Picked up the new EEC Power Relay, came home, put it in and.... nothing. Still cannot pull codes. Test light will not come on in self test connectors. Same condition as before. I know the relay receptacle is getting power 'cuz I put a test light to it. One contact always hot and the other is hot with key turned on. The other two must be returns and they both have juice. The relay is a five contact relay and my receptacle is a four wire type with space for a fifth so the relay must be the right one....then again I don't really know for sure. Went down to the library and copied five pages of the wiring diagram from their microfilm library so to those of you I had asked for a diagram from, thanks but I actually put out some physical effort and got it myself ;-) If ANYONE has any ideas as to why I am not getting power (apparently) to the test connectors, don't be afraid to jump right in. I know I have continuity to the single pin test connector but due to not having a breakout box I decided not to test the continuity to the other self test connector. Your help will be greatly appreciated, Chuck Chuck Sanborn Torrance, CA 86 F150 300 cu in six banger ------------------------------ From: FULSZBRONC aol.comDate: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 01:40:54 EDT Subject: Re: Electrical Problems BanksRVA aol.com writes:<< my 82 E350 dash lights. Here's the list of them: 1: When I turn the wipers on, they won't work, but the blinkers and high beam lights light up. 2: When the hazards are turned on, the high beam indicator blinks, not the blinkers. 3: I have no reverse lights, does anyone know where the reverse light switch is? No power is going to the reverse lights so I'm banking on the switch. >>> Your problem(s) may actually be fairly simple to remedy. The weirdness going on with your dash lights and wiper controls sounds like the typical ''poor ground syndrome". To prove (or disprove) this theory, run a jumper wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the body...find a good clean place on the firewall. As for your back-up lights, before you condemn the switch (which should be attached to the base of the steering column) be sure you've double checked the fuses with a test light - not just a visual inspection. Then start at the rear of the van and check the harness for any abrasions, pinches cuts, etc. If there is a trailer plug on it, concentrate there..take it apart, inspect it, and make sure that whoever wired it didn't foul it up and bypass the lights on the van and direct them to the pig tail instead (I've seen this many times). It's been my experience that B/U switches rarely fail. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out. Alex ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 18:48:38 -0400 From: flagship Subject: Re: Tailgate Up? Or Tailgate Down? I thought this was settled a long time ago. Leaving the tailgate down does nothing but spread trash around the interstate. When Billybob drops the tailgate, drives 10 miles to another gas station and fills up again, he does the math and figures two more miles to the gallon! Of course, he was also getting only ten before and now he's up to 12!!! He doesn't think a 20% increase in mileage just for dropping the tailgate would be unusual. In fact, he's expecting it. That way he doesn't have to use any brainpower to figure that the whole ten mile trip was down a 45% slope and he had to keep his brakes on just to keep it under 80mph. Or when he got there, the fact he parked on a slope which diddn't allow him to fill it up to the same level as before. No more/ no less. It's the same lack of logic that stops appropriate fixes for medical problems or crime or gun "control". Is there not an engineer on the list with a proper but simple explanation of the aerodynamics involved that can put this to rest? RobSweed aol.com wrote:> > Driving with the tailgate down will increase your mileage. It will also > cause your P/U bed to fail prematurely. The sides of the bed are supported > at the back by the tailgate preventing from moving from side to side. If you > don't carry 4X8 sheets of plywood you can make brackets (they may be > available commercially for this purpose) going from the top rear of the bed > to the floor to keep it stiff. Or you can buy a replacement gate that looks > like a grill allowing air to pass through. > > Bob Sweed > 94 F-150 4X4 SC 5.0 E4OD > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 07:10:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Roger Lane Subject: Toe-in Setting Anyone know what the toe-in should be on an 89 F250 4x4? I'm running slightly larger then stock tires ( 235/75/R16 compared to 205/75/R16). I just replaced the right inner tie rod end and need to reset the toe. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Roger "Accomplishing the impossible only means the boss will add it to your regular duties." _______________________________________________________ Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://freelane.excite.com/freeisp ------------------------------ From: "Harris, Scott" Subject: Re: Tailgate Up? Or Tailgate Down? Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 22:41:11 -0500 Even when I leave the tailgate up the trash still blows out so I thought about totally removing the bed of my truck. That way the weight saving will compensate for not having the tailgate down. -----Original Message----- From: flagship [mailto:Flagship worldnet.att.net]Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 5:49 PM To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.comSubject: [80-96-list] Re: Tailgate Up? Or Tailgate Down? I thought this was settled a long time ago. Leaving the tailgate down does nothing but spread trash around the interstate. When Billybob drops the tailgate, drives 10 miles to another gas station and fills up again, he does the math and figures two more miles to the gallon! Of course, he was also getting only ten before and now he's up to 12!!! He doesn't think a 20% increase in mileage just for dropping the tailgate would be unusual. In fact, he's expecting it. That way he doesn't have to use any brainpower to figure that the whole ten mile trip was down a 45% slope and he had to keep his brakes on just to keep it under 80mph. Or when he got there, the fact he parked on a slope which diddn't allow him to fill it up to the same level as before. No more/ no less. It's the same lack of logic that stops appropriate fixes for medical problems or crime or gun "control". Is there not an engineer on the list with a proper but simple explanation of the aerodynamics involved that can put this to rest? RobSweed aol.com wrote:> > Driving with the tailgate down will increase your mileage. It will also > cause your P/U bed to fail prematurely. The sides of the bed are supported > at the back by the tailgate preventing from moving from side to side. If you > don't carry 4X8 sheets of plywood you can make brackets (they may be > available commercially for this purpose) going from the top rear of the bed > to the floor to keep it stiff. Or you can buy a replacement gate that looks > like a grill allowing air to pass through. > > Bob Sweed > 94 F-150 4X4 SC 5.0 E4OD > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com withthe words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #54 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 80-96-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. 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