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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Sun, 02 Apr 2000 13:16:46 -0400 (EDT) Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 13:16:46 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #51 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Sat, 01 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 051 In This Issue: Alterpower Pro Re: Alterpower Pro Oil Re: Pinstriping Removal? Re: Idle Speed Motor Re: 88 Helms 88 F-250 Trans Re: Idle Speed Motor Re: Oil Re: Oil Knocking and codes ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 19:45:11 +1000 From: les williams Subject: Alterpower Pro Hi Wayne Foy and all others, Have you or anybody else had any experience using Alterpower/Alterpower Pro or an equivalent ? Is it reliable? Does it work as advertised? Ok. - the readers digest version of what it is, - It's yet another 'black box' that isolates the alternator load under certain Operator(?) predefined engine load conditions. It looks like a good idea to me, especially if you are trying to wring every last bit of performance out of you truck. I found it on the smartune.com site after a search for water injection systems. BTW: they do have a very nice looking injection system there too, and pictures of plugs before & after, which is almost totally irrelevant in a propane only fuelled engine anyway ..... .... But I'm having fun in a Ford, 351 Cleveland on LPG & Water/Alcohol Injection ....;-)) regards Les Lost in the Land of OZ ------------------------------ From: "Jay C. Brink" Subject: Re: Alterpower Pro Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 05:57:28 -0600 i have tried to be nice but please get me the hell off this list. ----- Original Message ----- From: "les williams" To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com> Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 3:45 AM Subject: [80-96-list] Alterpower Pro > Hi Wayne Foy and all others, > > Have you or anybody else had any experience using Alterpower/Alterpower Pro or an > equivalent ? Is it reliable? Does it work as advertised? > Ok. - the readers digest version of what it is, - It's yet another 'black box' > that isolates the alternator load under certain Operator(?) predefined engine > load conditions. > It looks like a good idea to me, especially if you are trying to wring every last > bit of performance out of you truck. > > I found it on the smartune.com site after a search for water injection > systems. > BTW: they do have a very nice looking injection system there too, and pictures of > plugs before & after, which is almost totally irrelevant in a propane only > fuelled engine anyway ..... > > > > .... But I'm having fun in a Ford, 351 Cleveland on LPG & Water/Alcohol Injection > ....;-)) > > regards > Les > Lost in the Land of OZ > > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. > ------------------------------ From: steve avdec.com Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 07:43:14 -0600 Subject: Oil Castrol Syntec is a partial synthetic, iirc. I've had zero problems in upgrading my F-150 to Mobil 1 at 60K...I use 10W-30. Synthetic will not "get out easier". What it will do is remove the crud on the inside of seals. If you've got erosion on the bearing surfaces or a bad seal, removal of the crud will allow leaks. A true synthetic will get you out to 10K change intervals with no problems. I'd suggest using dino-oil until 7500-10K on a new engine to make sure the rings seat, and then switch to synthetic. If you're changing oil/filter at 3K regularly, a lot of folks would debate the need for synthetic. It's primary advantage is better resistance to heat than dino-oils. Also, use a good filter...Mobil 1 and a few others. There's an oil filter website, but I don't have the link handy. I can post it later this weekend if anybody's interested. Synthetics also make sense in differentials and transmissions, if you're keeping the truck over the long run. Steve ------------------------------ From: "DannyF" Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 09:39:38 -0600 Subject: Re: Pinstriping Removal? > 3M makes a wheel that you put in your drill motor that is made for decal > and > pinststripe removal. It's made out of a soft gum-rubber that won't > damage > the paint surface if used correctly. Sorry, but I don't have the part # > handy, but it can be purchased from an auto-body supply house (about > $6.00). > I too have tried heat guns and plastic scrapers and lacquer thinner but > haven't found anything else that works. I've found that hair dryers, heat guns, scrapers, chemicals(including 3M) are a waste of time/effort for pinstripe removal. WD40 application/soak in is especially worthless advice. See this misinformation all the time on the newsgroups. Anyway, the above poster is on the right track. Get the 3M pinstripe removing wheel and the adapter. However, the adapter alone is $6. The wheel is ~$20-30 at most body shop supplies. Get it at Eastwood and will cost you their usual 20-40% markup. CAUTION: This tool will go thru paint if not used w/care! Ask me how I know! It takes a gentle touch using the edge of the wheel in a drill. It will shread it right off. Just get the vinyl off. Don't try and go deeper for the gummy adhesive. This can be removed w/lacquer thinner on a rag. Danny fitz011 ev1.net ------------------------------ From: "DannyF" Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 09:39:54 -0600 Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor From: Self To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor Date sent: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 08:58:38 -0600 > How does one (me) go about checking to see if the > Idle Speed Motor is working? Does it "whirrrrr", or > pull or push something else? > Thanks, > Chuck > Chuck Sanborn Chuckster, all you have to do is disconnect while running. It should idle down a little. It doesn't whirr, it just opens/closes a valve to control vacuum release. This is a controlled vacuum leak for idle speed. Danny fitz011 ev1.net ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 09:42:25 -0800 From: Marv Miller Subject: Re: 88 Helms Steve Schmeckpeper > Ford just re-printed 1987 Shop Manuals and 'I GOT MINE' > Mebbe they re-printed the 88's too?? Check out > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.helminc.com/ Smeck, Thanks for the URL. I did. They didn't. All out of 88's. They say to "Check back later". Thanks again, -Marv- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 10:06:43 -0800 From: Marv Miller Subject: 88 F-250 Trans Mark, Thanks for your post re: B&M. They're located about seven miles from me here in SoCal. I'm going to give them a call as soon as I actually pick up the '88. I guessed that the trans is an AOD, and in your reply you indicated that it was, indeed. Anything special about the AOD? I've gathered, from reading the list, that the torque converter's lock-up clutches eventually start to "shudder". That is a characteristic of Mopig's A-604/41TE trannys, also. They use ATF-7176 to compensate for it and cause a nicer, smoother lock-up. Although this is something I might have better asked Azie Magnuson over on the 61-79 group: Has anyone tried 7176 in a Ford? Heresy? Blasphemy? Sacrilege? All of the above? (Hey, it was just a question!) -Marv- ;-) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 11:31:26 -0800 From: chuck sanborn Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor At 09:39 AM 4/1/00 -0600, you wrote: >Chuckster, all you have to do is disconnect while running. It should >idle down a little. Thanks Danny!! I did disconnect it yesterday, more out of curiosity than anything else and it made not a bit of difference. Of course since then I have found out that my computer may not be working so there would be no difference in that case. I did get hold of another scanner today to run a second check on the computer but things ain't lookin good :-( Chuck Sanborn Torrance, CA 86 F150 300 cu in six banger ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 17:54:05 -0600 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: Oil At 01-04-00 07:43, Steve wrote: >A true synthetic will get you out to 10K change intervals with no >problems. I'd suggest using dino-oil until 7500-10K on a new engine to >make sure the rings seat, and then switch to synthetic. Why not use synthetic in a new engine? What does oil type have to do with rings "seating" (whatever that means)? How do you explain engines that come from the factory with synthetic in them like the Corvette? (Mobil 1) I see no reason not to put synthetic in a new engine at the first oil change (which on my new cars has been at 1,000 miles). Can you direct us to a reputable source for this, preferably on the web? My source is my neighbor, who is long-time specialist in Texaco's Lubes group and he says there is no reason not to run it from the start. He negotiated with Chevrolet to try to get their synthetic oil in the new Corvettes, but was not able to dethrone Mobil. Jim Cannon Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 19:48:53 -0600 From: Mike Persell Subject: Re: Oil Old stories for old metallurgy in the engines. Using synthetics with cast iron rings and fresh engines a few years ago would result in the rings not seating for way too many miles. Today's metallurgy and additive packages make some of the conventional oils as good as synthetics 10 or 15 years ago. Cheap rings would probably still have a problem. We have run synthetics in race engines from the first start and not had much of a problem. Mike Persell 86 F-150 302 2v Jim Cannon wrote: > > At 01-04-00 07:43, Steve wrote: > > >A true synthetic will get you out to 10K change intervals with no > >problems. I'd suggest using dino-oil until 7500-10K on a new engine to > >make sure the rings seat, and then switch to synthetic. > > Why not use synthetic in a new engine? What does oil type have to do with > rings "seating" (whatever that means)? > > How do you explain engines that come from the factory with synthetic in > them like the Corvette? (Mobil 1) > > I see no reason not to put synthetic in a new engine at the first oil > change (which on my new cars has been at 1,000 miles). > > Can you direct us to a reputable source for this, preferably on the web? > > My source is my neighbor, who is long-time specialist in Texaco's Lubes > group and he says there is no reason not to run it from the start. He > negotiated with Chevrolet to try to get their synthetic oil in the new > Corvettes, but was not able to dethrone Mobil. > > Jim Cannon > Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech > '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" > '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: FLR150 aol.com Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 13:16:42 EDT Subject: Knocking and codes Gang, Well for the last 2 months I have been fighting a detonation problem of HUGE proportions. It will detonate on me without the chip in and of course not on the nitrous, crazy not stupid. But to run down all I have done, I have tried 3 different ECM's and I have changed the ICM. The codes it continues to throw are 213-SPOUT circuit open-but the funny part is, when I pull the spout, the motor will idle down and it drops the timing about 4 degrees, put the plug back in, it advances the timing back up 4 degrees and idles the motor back up....hmmm sounds like its working to me, THEN WHY THE CODE? 225 Knock sensor signal not detected during Dynamic Response test- I have changed the knock sensor, checked the voltage at the pins from the PCM, checked the voltage at the sensor plug itself. I have come to my wits end here. I am hoping this will get to a Ford tech on either if these lists or someone just lurking that knows of a way to help me. To all of you guys that have tried to help me already, thanks again. If you have anymore things for me to try, email me so I can try that too. Later, Wayne Foy 94 Flareside SC 1999 Fun Ford Weekend.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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