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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Sun, 02 Apr 2000 13:16:46 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 13:16:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #51
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Sat, 01 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 051

In This Issue:
Alterpower Pro
Re: Alterpower Pro
Oil
Re: Pinstriping Removal?
Re: Idle Speed Motor
Re: 88 Helms
88 F-250 Trans
Re: Idle Speed Motor
Re: Oil
Re: Oil
Knocking and codes

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 19:45:11 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Alterpower Pro

Hi Wayne Foy and all others,

Have you or anybody else had any experience using Alterpower/Alterpower Pro or an
equivalent ? Is it reliable? Does it work as advertised?
Ok. - the readers digest version of what it is, - It's yet another 'black box'
that isolates the alternator load under certain Operator(?) predefined engine
load conditions.
It looks like a good idea to me, especially if you are trying to wring every last
bit of performance out of you truck.

I found it on the smartune.com site after a search for water injection
systems.
BTW: they do have a very nice looking injection system there too, and pictures of
plugs before & after, which is almost totally irrelevant in a propane only
fuelled engine anyway .....



.... But I'm having fun in a Ford, 351 Cleveland on LPG & Water/Alcohol Injection
....;-))

regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ



------------------------------

From: "Jay C. Brink" uslink.net>
Subject: Re: Alterpower Pro
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 05:57:28 -0600

i have tried to be nice but please get me the hell off this list.
----- Original Message -----
From: "les williams" cyber.net.au>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 3:45 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] Alterpower Pro


> Hi Wayne Foy and all others,
>
> Have you or anybody else had any experience using Alterpower/Alterpower
Pro or an
> equivalent ? Is it reliable? Does it work as advertised?
> Ok. - the readers digest version of what it is, - It's yet another 'black
box'
> that isolates the alternator load under certain Operator(?) predefined
engine
> load conditions.
> It looks like a good idea to me, especially if you are trying to wring
every last
> bit of performance out of you truck.
>
> I found it on the smartune.com site after a search for water injection
> systems.
> BTW: they do have a very nice looking injection system there too, and
pictures of
> plugs before & after, which is almost totally irrelevant in a propane only
> fuelled engine anyway .....
>
>
>
> .... But I'm having fun in a Ford, 351 Cleveland on LPG & Water/Alcohol
Injection
> ....;-))
>
> regards
> Les
> Lost in the Land of OZ
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

From: steve avdec.com
Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 07:43:14 -0600
Subject: Oil

Castrol Syntec is a partial synthetic, iirc. I've had zero problems in
upgrading my F-150 to Mobil 1 at 60K...I use 10W-30.

Synthetic will not "get out easier". What it will do is remove the crud
on the inside of seals. If you've got erosion on the bearing surfaces
or a bad seal, removal of the crud will allow leaks.

A true synthetic will get you out to 10K change intervals with no
problems. I'd suggest using dino-oil until 7500-10K on a new engine to
make sure the rings seat, and then switch to synthetic.

If you're changing oil/filter at 3K regularly, a lot of folks would
debate the need for synthetic. It's primary advantage is better
resistance to heat than dino-oils.

Also, use a good filter...Mobil 1 and a few others. There's an oil
filter website, but I don't have the link handy. I can post it later
this weekend if anybody's interested.

Synthetics also make sense in differentials and transmissions, if you're
keeping the truck over the long run.

Steve

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 09:39:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Pinstriping Removal?

> 3M makes a wheel that you put in your drill motor that is made for decal
> and
> pinststripe removal. It's made out of a soft gum-rubber that won't
> damage
> the paint surface if used correctly. Sorry, but I don't have the part #
> handy, but it can be purchased from an auto-body supply house (about
> $6.00).
> I too have tried heat guns and plastic scrapers and lacquer thinner but
> haven't found anything else that works.

I've found that hair dryers, heat guns, scrapers, chemicals(including
3M) are a waste of time/effort for pinstripe removal. WD40
application/soak in is especially worthless advice. See this
misinformation all the time on the newsgroups.

Anyway, the above poster is on the right track. Get the 3M
pinstripe removing wheel and the adapter. However, the adapter
alone is $6. The wheel is ~$20-30 at most body shop supplies. Get
it at Eastwood and will cost you their usual 20-40% markup.

CAUTION: This tool will go thru paint if not used w/care! Ask me
how I know! It takes a gentle touch using the edge of the wheel in a
drill. It will shread it right off. Just get the vinyl off. Don't try and go
deeper for the gummy adhesive. This can be removed w/lacquer
thinner on a rag.
Danny
fitz011 ev1.net

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 09:39:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor

From: Self
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor
Date sent: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 08:58:38 -0600

> How does one (me) go about checking to see if the
> Idle Speed Motor is working? Does it "whirrrrr", or
> pull or push something else?
> Thanks,
> Chuck
> Chuck Sanborn

Chuckster, all you have to do is disconnect while running. It should
idle down a little. It doesn't whirr, it just opens/closes a valve to
control vacuum release. This is a controlled vacuum leak for idle
speed.
Danny
fitz011 ev1.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 09:42:25 -0800
From: Marv Miller lafn.org>
Subject: Re: 88 Helms

Steve Schmeckpeper home.com> wrote:

> Ford just re-printed 1987 Shop Manuals and 'I GOT MINE'
> Mebbe they re-printed the 88's too?? Check out
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.helminc.com/

Smeck,

Thanks for the URL. I did. They didn't. All out of 88's.
They say to "Check back later".

Thanks again,

-Marv-

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 10:06:43 -0800
From: Marv Miller lafn.org>
Subject: 88 F-250 Trans

Mark,

Thanks for your post re: B&M. They're located about seven miles from me
here in SoCal. I'm going to give them a call as soon as I actually pick
up the '88.

I guessed that the trans is an AOD, and in your reply you indicated that
it was, indeed. Anything special about the AOD? I've gathered, from
reading the list, that the torque converter's lock-up clutches eventually
start to "shudder". That is a characteristic of Mopig's A-604/41TE
trannys, also. They use ATF-7176 to compensate for it and cause a nicer,
smoother lock-up. Although this is something I might have better asked
Azie Magnuson over on the 61-79 group:

Has anyone tried 7176 in a Ford?

Heresy? Blasphemy? Sacrilege?

All of the above?

(Hey, it was just a question!)

-Marv- ;-)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 11:31:26 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor

At 09:39 AM 4/1/00 -0600, you wrote:
>Chuckster, all you have to do is disconnect while running. It should
>idle down a little.

Thanks Danny!!
I did disconnect it yesterday, more out of curiosity than anything else
and it made not a bit of difference. Of course since then I have found
out that my computer may not be working so there would be no difference
in that case.
I did get hold of another scanner today to run a second check on the
computer but things ain't lookin good :-(



Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
86 F150 300 cu in six banger


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 17:54:05 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: Oil

At 01-04-00 07:43, Steve wrote:

>A true synthetic will get you out to 10K change intervals with no
>problems. I'd suggest using dino-oil until 7500-10K on a new engine to
>make sure the rings seat, and then switch to synthetic.

Why not use synthetic in a new engine? What does oil type have to do with
rings "seating" (whatever that means)?

How do you explain engines that come from the factory with synthetic in
them like the Corvette? (Mobil 1)

I see no reason not to put synthetic in a new engine at the first oil
change (which on my new cars has been at 1,000 miles).

Can you direct us to a reputable source for this, preferably on the web?

My source is my neighbor, who is long-time specialist in Texaco's Lubes
group and he says there is no reason not to run it from the start. He
negotiated with Chevrolet to try to get their synthetic oil in the new
Corvettes, but was not able to dethrone Mobil.


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 19:48:53 -0600
From: Mike Persell home.com>
Subject: Re: Oil

Old stories for old metallurgy in the engines. Using synthetics with
cast iron rings and fresh engines a few years ago would result in the
rings not seating for way too many miles.

Today's metallurgy and additive packages make some of the conventional
oils as good as synthetics 10 or 15 years ago. Cheap rings would
probably still have a problem. We have run synthetics in race engines
from the first start and not had much of a problem.

Mike Persell
86 F-150 302 2v



Jim Cannon wrote:
>
> At 01-04-00 07:43, Steve wrote:
>
> >A true synthetic will get you out to 10K change intervals with no
> >problems. I'd suggest using dino-oil until 7500-10K on a new engine to
> >make sure the rings seat, and then switch to synthetic.
>
> Why not use synthetic in a new engine? What does oil type have to do with
> rings "seating" (whatever that means)?
>
> How do you explain engines that come from the factory with synthetic in
> them like the Corvette? (Mobil 1)
>
> I see no reason not to put synthetic in a new engine at the first oil
> change (which on my new cars has been at 1,000 miles).
>
> Can you direct us to a reputable source for this, preferably on the web?
>
> My source is my neighbor, who is long-time specialist in Texaco's Lubes
> group and he says there is no reason not to run it from the start. He
> negotiated with Chevrolet to try to get their synthetic oil in the new
> Corvettes, but was not able to dethrone Mobil.
>
> Jim Cannon
> Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
> '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
> '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 13:16:42 EDT
Subject: Knocking and codes

Gang,
Well for the last 2 months I have been fighting a detonation problem of HUGE
proportions. It will detonate on me without the chip in and of course not on
the nitrous, crazy not stupid. But to run down all I have done, I have tried
3 different ECM's and I have changed the ICM. The codes it continues to throw
are
213-SPOUT circuit open-but the funny part is, when I pull the spout, the
motor will idle down and it drops the timing about 4 degrees, put the plug
back in, it advances the timing back up 4 degrees and idles the motor back
up....hmmm sounds like its working to me, THEN WHY THE CODE?
225 Knock sensor signal not detected during Dynamic Response test-
I have changed the knock sensor, checked the voltage at the pins from the
PCM, checked the voltage at the sensor plug itself.
I have come to my wits end here. I am hoping this will get to a Ford tech on
either if these lists or someone just lurking that knows of a way to help me.
To all of you guys that have tried to help me already, thanks again. If you
have anymore things for me to try, email me so I can try that too.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend....


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