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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Fri, 31 Mar 2000 01:15:31 -0500 (EST) Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 01:15:31 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #49 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Wed, 29 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 049 In This Issue: Re: Pinstriping Removal? Re: Pinstriping Removal? Re: MSD Fred Thank you Trip Odo Re: Water injection Re: Clutch linkage Re: UPDATE - Popping Sound in Steering Gear - 94 F150 adjustable clutch master cylinder push rod Re: Idle Speed Motor Phred (and MSD) Re: Phred (and MSD) Re: High idle Re: High idle 88 F-250 Re: EGR vacuum question Re: EGR vacuum question Re: Torque converter drain and fill Re: 88 F-250 EGR and vacuum and idle (contd) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: FULSZBRONC Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 23:11:51 EST Subject: Re: Pinstriping Removal? < < .......but if I took em off would they leave any residue, > > I agree with Tom, the paint is 4 to 5 years old-and if you take the FORD decals off the tail gate you will see what the paint used to looked like before it was exposed to sunshine. ------------------------------ From: "Gill, Timothy M." Subject: Re: Pinstriping Removal? Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:31:35 +0900 I am working overseas for the Government and parts for my truck are hard to track down. I am in the opposite dilemma. I am trying to find tailgate letters for a 1981 F-100. Does anyone know of any resources? > ---------- > From: FULSZBRONC > Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 1:11 PM > To: 80-96-list > Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Pinstriping Removal? > > > > < < .......but if I took em off would they leave any residue, > > > > > I agree with Tom, the paint is 4 to 5 years old-and if you take the FORD > decals off the tail gate you will see what the paint used to looked like > before it was exposed to sunshine. > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 21:56:49 -0700 From: Andrew Antipas Subject: Re: MSD Fred Thank you Fred, I have a 1985 F350 with a 460 and DuraSpark and I already have the MSD 6A box. My plan was to install the 6A since I had it already. The sales information I have read did not make it clear to me that the 8778 would offer the same advantage of the 6A plus being able to adjust timing on the fly. I'm hoping that I'm not giving up too much since I would have to select a compromise ignition timing. Again, Thank you for all the information. Regards, Andy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 00:25:27 -0800 From: Chris McKinnon Subject: Trip Odo My trip odo keeps sticking when it turns over from 099.9 to 100.0 When it doesn't stick there it might stick between 199.9 and 200.0 Any guesses on how to fix it? Thanks Chris ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 20:25:27 +1000 From: les williams Subject: Re: Water injection Hi Larry, First of all, Water Injection is not new technology. There are some kits commercially available, Injectronic(?) is one that comes to mind. If you check with anybody connected with Turbo or Supercharger installations, they should be able to point you in the right direction, and bring your money! That was the easy answer, and since this is the FTE site, there is no damn way we're going to go the easy route ..... There was a thread some months ago on this subject, and I would like to thank the people that did contribute to my greater knowledge on the subject, especially the posts from members' experiences with US Naval Aircraft. - Very Interesting ...... I have tried to emulate a system as used by Ak Miller ( I suspect one of many he has tried!), which is basically a washer bottle & pump to an injector nozzle mounted in the air cleaner. How you actually do this is up to your creativity. The 'brain' is nothing more than an adjustable vacuum switch, which switches the water on at almost zero vacuum in the inlet manifold, - that is hard acceleration - or in my case as the secondaries open. If and when you back off, the inlet manifold vacuum is restored and the switch turns off. The water flow is restricted to about 0.20 thou. and I am still playing - er .. Continuing Research, I still have a few loose ends to fix-up but the principle works & I'm having Fun. ;-)) A relevant question at this point would be 'What the hell am I trying to accomplish with water injection in an LPG only fuelled engine ?' Exactly the same as turbo/supercharged engines, to reduce the temperature and maximize the Propane fuel charge, and allow the maximum timing advance, without the dreaded Pinging setting in. Phred made the suggestion several times, in the course of several 'discussions' concerning the Propane feed temperature especially when the ambient temp is in excess of 30c. I just don't think he thought I would try to do it. I guess the question you have to ask yourself is why do you think you need it ? I'm not trying to be discouraging, just don't want you to go ahead and spend money on something that doesn't live up to Your expectations, and 'Come around and kick my Dunny down !!' .... Did I say 'I'm still having Fun in a Ford' ? Regards Les Lost in the Land of OZ Larry Schmiedekamp wrote: > ... But I'm having fun in a Ford, 351 Cleveland on LPG & Water Injection .... > what a Blast!! > > Where can I get information on this water injection. > I'd heard something on water injection back years ago. just an experiment. > Do they have something out on the market now? > > TIA > > Larry > ------------------------------ From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" Subject: Re: Clutch linkage Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:03:07 -0600 I was able to purchase an adjustable rod by itself. Smeck 87 F150 302 T18 ----- Original Message ----- From: Mahaffey, Chris M To: <80-96-list Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:47 AM Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Clutch linkage > I checked with the Ford garage for parts and the only way I can purchase the > rod is to purchase the master cylinder. Is that what you had to do or were > you able to replace just the rod? Does that have anything to do with wether > it's an adjustable rod or not? > > >Chris, > >Closer inspection will reveal the pedal arm and rod to be worn from metal > to > >metal contact. It's a poor design and Ford knows it.You can replace > bushings > >all day and they'll just keep breaking, till you replace the pedal arm, > >bushing and rod. Less than $100 at your local Ford parts counter. It's a > TWO > >beer job for a Stepper 8^> > > >Smeck > > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:04:24 -0600 (CST) From: Russell Hunter Subject: Re: UPDATE - Popping Sound in Steering Gear - 94 F150 I found the problem last night. The front rivet on the drivers side that holds the crossmember to the frame has loosened. I hit it with a hammer to tighten it up some and it calmed the noise down a lot. Much better than a $200 gearbox. Thanks to all who responded. Russ >Hi, > >I have a 94 F150 that has developed a sharp metallic knock or popping sound >that is coming from the steering gear. The truck has power steering with 72k ------------------------------ From: BAH Subject: adjustable clutch master cylinder push rod Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:51:31 -0600 > "Mahaffey, Chris M" > Subject: Re: Clutch linkage > Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 10:47:05 -0500 > I checked with the Ford garage for parts and the only way I can purchase the > rod is to purchase the master cylinder. Is that what you had to do or were > you able to replace just the rod? Chris, The adjustable clutch master cylinder push rod IS available separately. I just ordered/got mine. (I don't have the part # with me, but it was posted on the list a couple of weeks ago.) You will have to find a parts guy who is willing to punch the number into the parts system computer (it WILL come up as a valid part) and order the piece for you. It's a slick little rod, but it is spendy. My discounted price was almost $30. Bruce Hanson Apple Valley, MN ------------------------------ From: Fred Moreno Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 09:19:35 -0700 Chuck wrote: How does one (me) go about checking to see if the Idle Speed Motor is working? Does it "whirrrrr", or pull or push something else? Thanks, Chuck Well there are two ways, the first involves a high dollar scanner, go to the Data Stream and check the status of the IAC count. Another method is with the engine idling and normal running temperature, unplug the IAC connector. Chances are you will experience a change in the idle speed. This is a good sign that the system is working. Check your base idle RPM. If your motor stalls out, your base idle needs to be adjusted to 650 RPM (check the underhood sticker for proper value). This adjustment is done by manipulating the set screw on the throttle linkage, on the 5.0L and 5.8L its under that dogone plastic cover. IMPORTANT: Turn the key off before reconnecting the IAC connector - you could 'spike' the PCM. And YES I believe that your EGR valve should hold vacuum, I was going to suggest a vacuum leak, but it appears you already might of found your problem. Fred (oopps I mean, Phred) ------------------------------ From: "Tom Higgins" Subject: Phred (and MSD) Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 10:37:16 -0700 Phred, Considering all the help you've given everyone on the list (our own personal ignition consultant) I think you deserve a pay raise. Want us to e-mail your boss? ;) Tom in Phoenix P.S. A question for you and Wayne. I'm going to order my 6AL soon (96 F150 302/auto). Not that I really anticipate needing it but what cutoff should I use for the rev limiter? ------------------------------ From: FLR150 Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:51:38 EST Subject: Re: Phred (and MSD) In a message dated 3/30/00 12:40:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, Thiggins << A question for you and Wayne. I'm going to order my 6AL soon (96 F150 302/auto). Not that I really anticipate needing it but what cutoff should I use for the rev limiter? >> I use the 5k chip if I were you Tom. You aren't really in a high rev situation as I am. =) The stock limiter cuts out at 4800-5200 anyway. That would put you in the middle of the range. And if you decide to get a chip for your EEC then I would bump it to the 6k chip as the chip will bump you WOT shifts to around 5000-5200. Later, Wayne Foy 94 Flareside SC 1999 Fun Ford Weekend Racing series #2 Top Truck ------------------------------ From: RobSweed Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 15:19:15 EST Subject: Re: High idle Turn the idle screws in. Turning them out enriches the mixture, in leans it out and should lower the idle. If that doesn't work it is possible that the throttle plates are sticking open a bit. Turn the carb upside down (be sure to remove it from the vehicle as trucks tend to be unstable when upside down) ) ). Turn the idle speed screw out and remove any linkage that might prevent the plates from closing fully. If there is light coming around the edges of the plate, loosen the screws holding the plate to the shaft and seat the plate by lightly tapping it closed. Hold it closed while retightening the screws. Good luck, Bob ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 12:52:45 -0800 From: Chuck Sanborn Subject: Re: High idle At 03:19 PM 3/30/00 -0500, you wrote: >idle adjust screws > >Turn the idle screws in. Turning them out enriches the mixture, in leans it >out and should lower the idle. The Idle Mixture Screws were set to factory specs...I'm talking the idle screws at the rear of the carb. But, I will play with the idle mixture screws just to check. Thanks, Chuck ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:54:15 -0800 From: Marv Miller Subject: 88 F-250 Hi all..... This is an updated re-post, as I didn't get ANY response at all from it the first time around, and that is so unlike FTE'ers, that I thought I'd better ask again. Been lurking his list about a month, now. Been over at 61-79 almost since the beginning, and 48-60 for about a year and a half. But I'm gonna' get an '88 F-250 in about a month. 302 EFI and automatic (not sure - AOD?). 2WD. Anything I need to know special about this one? I bookmarked the site with the codes, and may order his book after I get the truck. Are the Helm's still available for this year? Any congenital defects? The only thing I'll have to fix is the A/C, which has been inop for about three years. I'm especially concerned about tranny life. External filter (and cooler if it doesn't already have one) are first on the list. Anybody know of any factory (or aftermarket) reliability mods for this trans? It has a utility bed, and I'll probably put most of the contents of my already stuffed garage into it, so it'll be weighted down pretty well. I've outgrown my lead foot in my old age, and fuel economy is getting to be a greater concern as time goes on, so the tranny shouldn't see any major abuse, but sometimes things go wrong that could have been prevented with a little fore-knowledge. Got any? Regards, -Marv- '70 F-250 C/S (Soon an '88 F-250) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:36:35 -0600 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: EGR vacuum question At 29-03-00 20:12, Chuck wrote: >On my F150 4.6L, if I put a put my hand vacuum pump to the >EGR valve, shouldn't it hold the vacuum? I am trying to trace >down the cause of a high idle condition (1200RPM) and am >about out of ideas. My EGR does not hold a vacuum nor does >it cause the motor to idle down at all when vacuum is applied. >Help is greatly appreciated in this matter. I have to get it smogged >so that I can get it out of the garage entrance. Chuck- No, the way they are designed, EGR valve will often not hold a vacuum. If you read that section of the shop manual, they describe the different valves used and their internal design. Most common design that results in not holding a vacuum is a little bleed vlave that needs some back pressure on exhausr side to close and keep vacuum in. Jim Cannon Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 15:41:55 -0800 From: Chuck Sanborn Subject: Re: EGR vacuum question Hi Jim, The valve I think I have is the Ported type and from what I can get out of reading about that particular one, it is suppose to hold a vacuum of 6-10Hg. The needle on my pump goes to 10 when I squeeze the handle and back to zero immediately. The book says the vacuum should not drop more than 1" in 30 seconds. Chuck At 04:36 PM 3/30/00 -0600, you wrote: >Chuck- >No, the way they are designed, EGR valve will often not hold a vacuum. If >you read that section of the shop manual, they describe the different >valves used and their internal design. Most common design that results in >not holding a vacuum is a little bleed vlave that needs some back pressure >on exhausr side to close and keep vacuum in. > >Jim Cannon >Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech >'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" >'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar >the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the >message. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 19:29:21 -0500 From: Rich Subject: Re: Torque converter drain and fill I want to drain my converter on my 96 F150 with the 4r70W also, but howw does it refill itself??, What is the proper way to refill it? Thanks Rich ------------------------------ From: Scrangler83 Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 22:34:48 EST Subject: Re: 88 F-250 A tranny cooler (if not equiped) would not be a bad idea at all in my book. I have one on all my auto tranny trucks and am happy i do especially on long trips and when the truck is loaded down, other than that, my 88 F-350 4x4 is mainly different and I am sorta new to the scene also Tom ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 22:16:58 -0800 From: chuck sanborn Subject: EGR and vacuum and idle (contd) Tonight after work I pulled the EGR (the nuts holding it on were not very tight) and cleaned it up, installed a new gasket and put it back on. After discovering that I in fact do have the postive backpressure type, I stuck a big socket in the tailpipe. Then (engine running of course) put the hand vacuum pump to it and pumped her up. It would not hold a vacuum which I believe is a bad thing, but if I kept pumping it would bring the idle down about 400 rpm to 800. If I am understanding the test procedures correctly, that means I need a new EGR valve. Not that I want to spend the 75 bux for a new one but I still need to get the truck past the smog dude. Any feedback from the more experienced? And a special thanks to Phred Marino and Dave Roberts who have both been faxing me different pages of information for this and a couple of other things I am trying to work out. Chuck Chuck Sanborn Torrance, CA 86 F150 300 cu in six banger ------------------------------ End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #49 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 80-96-list If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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