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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Fri, 31 Mar 2000 01:15:31 -0500 (EST)
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 01:15:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #49
Precedence: bulk

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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Wed, 29 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 049

In This Issue:
Re: Pinstriping Removal?
Re: Pinstriping Removal?
Re: MSD Fred Thank you
Trip Odo
Re: Water injection
Re: Clutch linkage
Re: UPDATE - Popping Sound in Steering Gear - 94 F150
adjustable clutch master cylinder push rod
Re: Idle Speed Motor
Phred (and MSD)
Re: Phred (and MSD)
Re: High idle
Re: High idle
88 F-250
Re: EGR vacuum question
Re: EGR vacuum question
Re: Torque converter drain and fill
Re: 88 F-250
EGR and vacuum and idle (contd)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 23:11:51 EST
Subject: Re: Pinstriping Removal?



< < .......but if I took em off would they leave any residue, > >


I agree with Tom, the paint is 4 to 5 years old-and if you take the FORD
decals off the tail gate you will see what the paint used to looked like
before it was exposed to sunshine.

------------------------------

From: "Gill, Timothy M." usfk.korea.army.mil>
Subject: Re: Pinstriping Removal?
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:31:35 +0900

I am working overseas for the Government and parts for my truck are hard to
track down. I am in the opposite dilemma. I am trying to find tailgate
letters for a 1981 F-100. Does anyone know of any resources?

> ----------
> From: FULSZBRONC aol.com[SMTP:FULSZBRONC aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 1:11 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Pinstriping Removal?
>
>
>
> < < .......but if I took em off would they leave any residue, > >
>
>
> I agree with Tom, the paint is 4 to 5 years old-and if you take the FORD
> decals off the tail gate you will see what the paint used to looked like
> before it was exposed to sunshine.
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 21:56:49 -0700
From: Andrew Antipas sopris.net>
Subject: Re: MSD Fred Thank you

Fred,

I have a 1985 F350 with a 460 and DuraSpark and I already have the MSD
6A box. My plan was to install the 6A since I had it already. The sales
information I have read did not make it clear to me that the 8778 would
offer the same advantage of the 6A plus being able to adjust timing on
the fly. I'm hoping that I'm not giving up too much since I would have
to select a compromise ignition timing.

Again, Thank you for all the information.

Regards,

Andy


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 00:25:27 -0800
From: Chris McKinnon cnx.net>
Subject: Trip Odo

My trip odo keeps sticking when it turns over from 099.9 to 100.0 When it
doesn't stick there it might stick between 199.9 and 200.0 Any guesses on
how to fix it?
Thanks
Chris


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 20:25:27 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: Water injection

Hi Larry,

First of all, Water Injection is not new technology. There are some kits
commercially available, Injectronic(?) is one that comes to mind. If you check
with anybody connected with Turbo or Supercharger installations, they should be
able to point you in the right direction, and bring your money! That was the
easy answer, and since this is the FTE site, there is no damn way we're going to
go the easy route .....

There was a thread some months ago on this subject, and I would like to thank the
people that did contribute to my greater knowledge on the subject, especially the
posts from members' experiences with US Naval Aircraft. - Very Interesting
......

I have tried to emulate a system as used by Ak Miller ( I suspect one of many he
has tried!), which is basically a washer bottle & pump to an injector nozzle
mounted in the air cleaner. How you actually do this is up to your creativity.
The 'brain' is nothing more than an adjustable vacuum switch, which switches the
water on at almost zero vacuum in the inlet manifold, - that is hard acceleration
- or in my case as the secondaries open. If and when you back off, the inlet
manifold vacuum is restored and the switch turns off. The water flow is
restricted to about 0.20 thou. and I am still playing - er .. Continuing
Research, I still have a few loose ends to fix-up but the principle works & I'm
having Fun. ;-))
A relevant question at this point would be 'What the hell am I trying to
accomplish with water injection in an LPG only fuelled engine ?'
Exactly the same as turbo/supercharged engines, to reduce the temperature and
maximize the Propane fuel charge, and allow the maximum timing advance, without
the dreaded Pinging setting in. Phred made the suggestion several times, in the
course of several 'discussions' concerning the Propane feed temperature
especially when the ambient temp is in excess of 30c. I just don't think he
thought I would try to do it.

I guess the question you have to ask yourself is why do you think you need it ?
I'm not trying to be discouraging, just don't want you to go ahead and spend
money on something that doesn't live up to Your expectations, and 'Come around
and kick my Dunny down !!'

.... Did I say 'I'm still having Fun in a Ford' ?

Regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ


Larry Schmiedekamp wrote:

> ... But I'm having fun in a Ford, 351 Cleveland on LPG & Water Injection ....
> what a Blast!!
>
> Where can I get information on this water injection.
> I'd heard something on water injection back years ago. just an experiment.
> Do they have something out on the market now?
>
> TIA
>
> Larry
>


------------------------------

From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" home.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch linkage
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:03:07 -0600

I was able to purchase an adjustable rod by itself.
Smeck
87 F150 302 T18

----- Original Message -----
From: Mahaffey, Chris M ch.etn.com>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:47 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Clutch linkage


> I checked with the Ford garage for parts and the only way I can purchase
the
> rod is to purchase the master cylinder. Is that what you had to do or
were
> you able to replace just the rod? Does that have anything to do with
wether
> it's an adjustable rod or not?
>
> >Chris,
> >Closer inspection will reveal the pedal arm and rod to be worn from metal
> to
> >metal contact. It's a poor design and Ford knows it.You can replace
> bushings
> >all day and they'll just keep breaking, till you replace the pedal arm,
> >bushing and rod. Less than $100 at your local Ford parts counter. It's a
> TWO
> >beer job for a Stepper 8^>
>
> >Smeck
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:04:24 -0600 (CST)
From: Russell Hunter hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: UPDATE - Popping Sound in Steering Gear - 94 F150

I found the problem last night. The front rivet on the drivers side that
holds the crossmember to the frame has loosened. I hit it with a hammer to
tighten it up some and it calmed the noise down a lot. Much better than a
$200 gearbox.

Thanks to all who responded.

Russ

>Hi,
>
>I have a 94 F150 that has developed a sharp metallic knock or popping sound
>that is coming from the steering gear. The truck has power steering with 72k



------------------------------

From: BAH NWC.EDU
Subject: adjustable clutch master cylinder push rod
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:51:31 -0600



> "Mahaffey, Chris M" ch.etn.com

> Subject: Re: Clutch linkage

> Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 10:47:05 -0500



> I checked with the Ford garage for parts and the only way I can purchase
the

> rod is to purchase the master cylinder. Is that what you had to do or
were

> you able to replace just the rod?



Chris,



The adjustable clutch master cylinder push rod IS available separately.

I just ordered/got mine. (I don't have the part # with me, but it was
posted

on the list a couple of weeks ago.) You will have to find a parts guy who

is willing to punch the number into the parts system computer (it WILL come

up as a valid part) and order the piece for you. It's a slick little rod,
but it is

spendy. My discounted price was almost $30.



Bruce Hanson

Apple Valley, MN


------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Motor
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 09:19:35 -0700

Chuck wrote:

How does one (me) go about checking to see if the
Idle Speed Motor is working? Does it "whirrrrr", or
pull or push something else?
Thanks,
Chuck

Well there are two ways, the first involves a high dollar scanner, go to
the Data Stream and check the status of the IAC count.

Another method is with the engine idling and normal running temperature,
unplug the IAC connector. Chances are you will experience a change in the
idle speed. This is a good sign that the system is working. Check your base
idle RPM.

If your motor stalls out, your base idle needs to be adjusted to 650 RPM
(check the underhood sticker for proper value). This adjustment is done by
manipulating the set screw on the throttle linkage, on the 5.0L and 5.8L its
under that dogone plastic cover. IMPORTANT: Turn the key off before
reconnecting the IAC connector - you could 'spike' the PCM.

And YES I believe that your EGR valve should hold vacuum, I was going to
suggest a vacuum leak, but it appears you already might of found your
problem.

Fred (oopps I mean, Phred)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Higgins" samaritan.edu>
Subject: Phred (and MSD)
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 10:37:16 -0700

Phred,

Considering all the help you've given everyone on the list (our
own personal ignition consultant) I think you deserve a pay raise.
Want us to e-mail your boss? ;)

Tom in Phoenix

P.S. A question for you and Wayne. I'm going to order my 6AL
soon (96 F150 302/auto). Not that I really anticipate needing it
but what cutoff should I use for the rev limiter?




------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:51:38 EST
Subject: Re: Phred (and MSD)

In a message dated 3/30/00 12:40:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Thiggins samaritan.edu writes:

<< A question for you and Wayne. I'm going to order my 6AL
soon (96 F150 302/auto). Not that I really anticipate needing it
but what cutoff should I use for the rev limiter?
>>
I use the 5k chip if I were you Tom. You aren't really in a high rev
situation as I am. =) The stock limiter cuts out at 4800-5200 anyway. That
would put you in the middle of the range. And if you decide to get a chip for
your EEC then I would bump it to the 6k chip as the chip will bump you WOT
shifts to around 5000-5200.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: RobSweedaol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 15:19:15 EST
Subject: Re: High idle


Turn the idle screws in. Turning them out enriches the mixture, in leans it
out and should lower the idle. If that doesn't work it is possible that the
throttle plates are sticking open a bit. Turn the carb upside down (be sure
to remove it from the vehicle as trucks tend to be unstable when upside down)
) ). Turn the idle speed screw out and remove any linkage that might prevent
the plates from closing fully. If there is light coming around the edges of
the plate, loosen the screws holding the plate to the shaft and seat the
plate by lightly tapping it closed. Hold it closed while retightening the
screws.

Good luck,
Bob

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 12:52:45 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: High idle

At 03:19 PM 3/30/00 -0500, you wrote:
>idle adjust screws
> >
>Turn the idle screws in. Turning them out enriches the mixture, in leans it
>out and should lower the idle.

The Idle Mixture Screws were set to factory specs...I'm talking the idle
screws
at the rear of the carb. But, I will play with the idle mixture screws
just to check.
Thanks,
Chuck





------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:54:15 -0800
From: Marv Miller lafn.org>
Subject: 88 F-250

Hi all..... This is an updated re-post, as I didn't get ANY response at all from it the
first time around, and that is so unlike FTE'ers, that I thought I'd better ask again.

Been lurking his list about a month, now. Been over at 61-79 almost since the
beginning, and 48-60 for about a year and a half.

But I'm gonna' get an '88 F-250 in about a month. 302 EFI and automatic (not sure
- AOD?). 2WD. Anything I need to know special about this one? I bookmarked the
site with the codes, and may order his book after I get the truck. Are the Helm's
still available for this year? Any congenital defects? The only thing I'll have to fix
is the A/C, which has been inop for about three years.

I'm especially concerned about tranny life. External filter (and cooler if it
doesn't already have one) are first on the list. Anybody know of any factory
(or aftermarket) reliability mods for this trans?

It has a utility bed, and I'll probably put most of the contents of my already
stuffed garage into it, so it'll be weighted down pretty well. I've outgrown
my lead foot in my old age, and fuel economy is getting to be a greater concern
as time goes on, so the tranny shouldn't see any major abuse, but sometimes things
go wrong that could have been prevented with a little fore-knowledge.

Got any?

Regards,

-Marv-
'70 F-250 C/S
(Soon an '88 F-250)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:36:35 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: EGR vacuum question

At 29-03-00 20:12, Chuck wrote:
>On my F150 4.6L, if I put a put my hand vacuum pump to the
>EGR valve, shouldn't it hold the vacuum? I am trying to trace
>down the cause of a high idle condition (1200RPM) and am
>about out of ideas. My EGR does not hold a vacuum nor does
>it cause the motor to idle down at all when vacuum is applied.
>Help is greatly appreciated in this matter. I have to get it smogged
>so that I can get it out of the garage entrance.

Chuck-
No, the way they are designed, EGR valve will often not hold a vacuum. If
you read that section of the shop manual, they describe the different
valves used and their internal design. Most common design that results in
not holding a vacuum is a little bleed vlave that needs some back pressure
on exhausr side to close and keep vacuum in.

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 15:41:55 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: EGR vacuum question

Hi Jim,
The valve I think I have is the Ported type and from what I can
get out of reading about that particular one, it is suppose to
hold a vacuum of 6-10Hg. The needle on my pump goes to
10 when I squeeze the handle and back to zero immediately.
The book says the vacuum should not drop more than 1" in
30 seconds.
Chuck

At 04:36 PM 3/30/00 -0600, you wrote:

>Chuck-
>No, the way they are designed, EGR valve will often not hold a vacuum. If
>you read that section of the shop manual, they describe the different
>valves used and their internal design. Most common design that results in
>not holding a vacuum is a little bleed vlave that needs some back pressure
>on exhausr side to close and keep vacuum in.
>
>Jim Cannon
>Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
>'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
>'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 19:29:21 -0500
From: Rich snet.net>
Subject: Re: Torque converter drain and fill

I want to drain my converter on my 96 F150 with the 4r70W also, but
howw does it refill itself??, What is the proper way to refill it?
Thanks
Rich

------------------------------

From: Scrangler83aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 22:34:48 EST
Subject: Re: 88 F-250

A tranny cooler (if not equiped) would not be a bad idea at all in my book. I
have one on all my auto tranny trucks and am happy i do especially on long
trips and when the truck is loaded down, other than that, my 88 F-350 4x4 is
mainly different and I am sorta new to the scene also

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 22:16:58 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: EGR and vacuum and idle (contd)

Tonight after work I pulled the EGR (the nuts holding it on were not very
tight)
and cleaned it up, installed a new gasket and put it back on. After
discovering
that I in fact do have the postive backpressure type, I stuck a big socket
in the
tailpipe. Then (engine running of course) put the hand vacuum pump to it and
pumped her up. It would not hold a vacuum which I believe is a bad thing, but
if I kept pumping it would bring the idle down about 400 rpm to 800. If I am
understanding the test procedures correctly, that means I need a new EGR
valve. Not that I want to spend the 75 bux for a new one but I still need
to get
the truck past the smog dude. Any feedback from the more experienced?
And a special thanks to Phred Marino and Dave Roberts who have both been
faxing me different pages of information for this and a couple of other
things I
am trying to work out.
Chuck
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
86 F150 300 cu in six banger


------------------------------

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