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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Wed, 29 Mar 2000 22:47:43 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 22:47:43 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #48
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80-96-list Digest Tue, 28 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 048

In This Issue:
High Idle
Re: plans for my 90
94' in Iowa
Re: 94' in Iowa
Pinstriping Removal?
Re: Pinstriping Removal?
Re: Clutch linkage
Re: Pinstriping Removal?
Draining the Torque Converter
Re: Pinstriping Removal?
Re: Draining the Torque Converter
Re: MSD with Ford TFI
Convert 2wd to 4wd?
Re: 94' Tune-Up
Re: MSD Fred Thank you
Idle Speed Motor
Re: Pinstriping Removal?
EGR vacuum question
Re: Pinstriping Removal?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 19:17:41 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: High Idle

In my never ending quest to get this cheeply purchased beast smogged so
I can get it registered to drive I have (this is the 1986 300cu in six)
Rebuilt and installed the carb.
Purchased new throttle linkage cable (took care of the "no power" problem)
Checked every vacuum port *I* could find and....
Even when warmed up the motor idles at 1200 RPM with the idle adjust screws
back alllllllll the way out.
Any ideas group on how to slow this idle down?
Thanks,
Chuck


------------------------------

From: LGRanch aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 22:24:27 EST
Subject: Re: plans for my 90

Please keep the forum posted on your engine change. Everyone tells me that
the 1990 302 to 351 is a real bear of a job.

------------------------------

From: "shannon hoyt" hotmail.com>
Subject: 94' in Iowa
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 05:08:40 GMT

Not to make my post to long and to also apologize to all. I don't mean the
answers are like politicians that we lie, just that sometimes the
explanation gets a little lengthy; ( going past the answer too much ).
Although I do agree with Alex, When we guys/girls want know about the best
"Fords", we do like to tell why the parts/trucks are the best. Hahaha.
Anyways to answer Alex's question?--


Just out of curiosity, why did you have to replace the distributor on your
'94? I've seen them go over 250,000 miles in the 300 cube six-bangers
without a problem.
Alex


I do not believe that the old distributer is bad, that is why I kept it. It
started out though as a belief that the distributor might be cracked. No
signs from the outside though so I figured it was next to the engine. Rather
than be sitting at home with some parts missing from my truck, I like to
sometimes get my parts in advance. To play it safe. I didn't see any cracks
once it was off, only that it needs some clean up. The #6 wire post, though,
was covered with dirt and rust. I figured I solved my moisture problem.
Sooo, to make a long story short, I had the part was planning to change the
plugs and wires anyways, so I popped a new cap on the truck. With the wire
corroded and bad though, my only choice until I had consulted with the
digest on new sets, was to just clean all wire connections and run until I
made the switch. At the same time though, I caught a glimpse of the plugs
and they looked pretty bad too. I admit, it's a shame when a 6yr old truck
with 80,000 miles needs as much work as I have had to put in it. I bought it
at 58,000 last June, and a woman had owned it before I did. She did all
proper dealership maintenance up until 36,000 and then there is no other
record. Mind you, for any more repairs, I will not be going to my local
dealership anymore. Man did I get shafted... #$%**&^# #$$%. ( always use
symbols, it gets across the meaning better than vulgarity).

94' in Iowa,
Shannon

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 21:25:20 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: 94' in Iowa

At 05:08 AM 3/29/00 +0000, you wrote:
>. I don't mean the answers are like politicians that we lie,

Ah that was my fault for not putting a smiley face at the end of
the statement :-(
It's kinda like those ink blot tests only with word association.
You say "politician", I hear "lie"
Chuck




------------------------------

From: "Michael R. Dunbar" vtc.vsc.edu>
Subject: Pinstriping Removal?
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 02:37:25 -0500


I'm trying to remove the stick-on, factory pinstriping, and am having little
luck. Using a blow-dryer, I removed roughly 8 inches in about an hour. I
think it'd be easier to remove if it were painted on. What I'm wondering is
if there is an easy (or easier) approach to removing this. Having a truck
that is roughly 16-20 feet in length, that's a lot of pinstriping to remove,
not to mention, it is painful on the fingernails when chipping at it after
heating it with my sister's hair-dryer. However, I think I'll take the day
off today from it to give the dryer a rest and fix my dad's Ch*vy van so I
can earn my rent for having Spring break off and ending up without a job.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Mike Dunbar
89 F-150 XLT Lariat
White River Jct., Vermont
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/mdunbar420/truck.htm

"Just remember, the wheel's spinning but the hamster's dead"



-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
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------------------------------

From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" home.com>
Subject: Re: Pinstriping Removal?
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 06:35:47 -0600

Mike, Inquire at your local automotive paint supplier 8^>
Smeck

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael R. Dunbar vtc.vsc.edu>
To: Ford <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 1:37 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] Pinstriping Removal?


>
> I'm trying to remove the stick-on, factory pinstriping, and am having
little
> luck. Using a blow-dryer, I removed roughly 8 inches in about an hour. I
> think it'd be easier to remove if it were painted on. What I'm wondering
is
> if there is an easy (or easier) approach to removing this. Having a truck
> that is roughly 16-20 feet in length, that's a lot of pinstriping to
remove,
> not to mention, it is painful on the fingernails when chipping at it after
> heating it with my sister's hair-dryer. However, I think I'll take the day
> off today from it to give the dryer a rest and fix my dad's Ch*vy van so I
> can earn my rent for having Spring break off and ending up without a job.
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Mike Dunbar
> 89 F-150 XLT Lariat
> White River Jct., Vermont
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/mdunbar420/truck.htm
>
> "Just remember, the wheel's spinning but the hamster's dead"
>
>
>
> -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
> -- Type: application/ms-tnef
> -- File: winmail.dat
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Mahaffey, Chris M" ch.etn.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch linkage
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 10:47:05 -0500

I checked with the Ford garage for parts and the only way I can purchase the
rod is to purchase the master cylinder. Is that what you had to do or were
you able to replace just the rod? Does that have anything to do with wether
it's an adjustable rod or not?

>Chris,
>Closer inspection will reveal the pedal arm and rod to be worn from metal
to
>metal contact. It's a poor design and Ford knows it.You can replace
bushings
>all day and they'll just keep breaking, till you replace the pedal arm,
>bushing and rod. Less than $100 at your local Ford parts counter. It's a
TWO
>beer job for a Stepper 8^>

>Smeck



------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 11:12:14 EST
Subject: Re: Pinstriping Removal?


3M makes a wheel that you put in your drill motor that is made for decal and
pinststripe removal. It's made out of a soft gum-rubber that won't damage
the paint surface if used correctly. Sorry, but I don't have the part #
handy, but it can be purchased from an auto-body supply house (about $6.00).
I too have tried heat guns and plastic scrapers and lacquer thinner but
haven't found anything else that works.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Higgins" samaritan.edu>
Subject: Draining the Torque Converter
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 10:34:54 -0700

Larry,

Finally someone has a question I can help with.

In front of the transmission
pan is a round/oval piece of rubber much like a "plug" for a hole in the
fire-
wall. It is easily (perhaps far too easily) removed with fingers. You can
then
feel the outer rim of the torque converter. If you "bump" the engine over,
hopefully you will line up a bolt with the hole (first try when I did
it-what are the
chances of that happening again?). Once the bolt is lined up it is a simple
matter of removing it with a socket wrench (I think it was 1/4"). It took a
good
10 or 15 minutes to drain and filled a "7 1/2 qt." drain pan. Better to err
on the
side of caution and get something bigger (like a big kitty litter pan).
Replace the
bolt and cover and your good to go (once you replace the fluid).

If this isn't clear e-mail me directly and I'll try to explain it again.

Tom in Phoenix

P.S. I saved myself LOTS of dirty looks from my wife by putting a huge
piece of
cardboard under everything. It IS a messy process.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 11:04:30 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Pinstriping Removal?

For removing of pin striping, go the Eastwood Co. site.
They have tools especially for this.
Chuck

At 02:37 AM 3/29/00 -0500, you wrote:

>I'm trying to remove the stick-on, factory pinstriping, and am having little
>luck. Using a blow-dryer, I removed roughly 8 inches in about an hour. I
>think it'd be easier to remove if it were painted on. What I'm wondering is
>if there is an easy (or easier) approach to removing this. Having a truck
>that is roughly 16-20 feet in length, that's a lot of pinstriping to remove,
>not to mention, it is painful on the fingernails when chipping at it after
>heating it with my sister's hair-dryer. However, I think I'll take the day
>off today from it to give the dryer a rest and fix my dad's Ch*vy van so I
>can earn my rent for having Spring break off and ending up without a job.
>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>
>Mike Dunbar
>89 F-150 XLT Lariat
>White River Jct., Vermont
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/mdunbar420/truck.htm
>
>"Just remember, the wheel's spinning but the hamster's dead"
>
>
>
>-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
>-- Type: application/ms-tnef
>-- File: winmail.dat
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.

Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint
1986 F150 six banger (Hers)


------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 14:52:34 EST
Subject: Re: Draining the Torque Converter

In a message dated 3/29/00 12:37:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Thiggins samaritan.edu writes:

<< I saved myself LOTS of dirty looks from my wife by putting a huge
piece of
cardboard under everything. It IS a messy process. >>

Tom,
You got that right. For you guys with the AODE/4R70W transmissions, Art Carr
makes a deep pan with a magnetic drain plug now. List on them is $150, but
hey I figure that the mess it saves is worth that in the long run. I am a
little biased toward Art Carr products as they are helping me with my racing
effort, but then again, I have beat the crap outta my 4R70W and I have yet to
have any of the parts from them go bad on me. Remember, I am pushing a 5200lb
brick down the track to the tune of 14.40101 mph, launching at close to 3000
rpm, and don't forget the load that is placed on the 1st and 2nd gear sprags
from the burnouts. Anyway, I have rambled enough.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: Re: MSD with Ford TFI
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 12:56:17 -0700

Dave wrote:

Hi all - The recent talk of MSD and increased MPG leads me
to this
question. In the garage I have a 2-3 year old MSD-5 box that
was on a Jeep
I bought. For some reason I thought that the MSD-5 would not
work with the
TFI ignition system (in my 87 f-150, 300 6cyl). I have no
literature with
the unit so I don't know for sure...

So, do any of you know if the MSD-5 ignition box will work
with TFI
ignition system? Any potential to damage the stock ignition
by testing the
MSD-5 with the TFI?

Yes there is no reason that it would not work with your truck.

Email me a fax number directly and I will send you installation
instructions on how to wire it in your TFI-IV system. Piece of non-fattening
cake. You will need;

two female spade connectors that will fit tightly the male spade
connectors of your coil connector AND,
two male spade connectors that will fit tightly the female
connectors of your coil.

There is a direct plug-in coil connector harness that you could make use of
with for the TFI-IV system, it was intended for the 6 series boxes but can
be easily be applied to the unit you already have.

Phred



------------------------------

Date: 29 Mar 2000 12:05:10 -0800
From: "David W" spiritone.com>
Subject: Convert 2wd to 4wd?

I think THIS is a better idea:

Find a diesel 4x4 with a blown engine, buy it cheap and
put your engine in it! It would probably be easier, and no
unfunny problems with alignment and steering to deal with!

You get lots of spare parts as part of the deal...


--------------------------------------
Opinions are my own and not those of Intel corporation.

----- Original Message -----
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> >I have an 89 F250 Supercab diesel, with only 115k miles, 5
> >speed. It's had excellent care and I am considering converting
> >it to 4x4.
>



------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: Re: 94' Tune-Up
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 13:06:09 -0700

Shannon ask;

" What is the best Spark Plugs, to
put back in this truck?" True I worry about Mileage and performance, So what

is the best brand, style, type, etc. The name please?

Phred replies;

Motorcraft, Motorcraft, Motorcraft and stick with the sticker under hood
calls out. I have tried NGK's (I liked them, they are good) and even tried
AC (so spank me, I've been BAD to my Ford, I know it, guilty as charged!!!)
and they did not last too long, developed a miss much too soon.

Went back to Motorcrafts about 15K miles back and still smooth idle, good
performance. They are just as appreciated as the NGK's but the service
manual says Motorcraft not NGK's. Did I mention you should stick with the
Motorcrafts?

Phred

------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: Re: MSD Fred Thank you
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 14:28:34 -0700

Andy wrote;

Thanks for all the answers to my questions. A couple of
follow up
questions on part No. 8778. If I understand correctly this
timing retard
unit works with the 6A box. I found my installation
instructions and
noticed the two methods of installation with the Dura-Spark
ignition.
Any advantages to one method than the other?

You are most welcome and to answer your questions;

Here is where I admit that I don't remember what year truck we are dealing
with.
If you have a Duraspark system, just use the 8778. You won't need the MSD
6A ignition, it would be a waste of money.

If you have a TFI-IV, do not use the 8778 Timing control, because that is a
Duraspark direct replacement unit. If you want/need adjustable timing
control with a TFI-IV and want to use an MSD 6 series unit, you will also
need the 8680 Timing Control.

All of the timing controls work by electronically retarding the ignition
timing up to 15 degrees depending where the knob pot is set. Initially the
distributor will need to be mechanically reset during the installation.
So when most people install these types of units their goal is to to be
able to advance a little or retard a little their ignition timing while
driving. Somewhere in the middle of knob pot's range they will be at factory
timing.

As far as installation method for your MSD either one is fine, I would
personally choose to use the method NOT using the MSD's mag input. I like to
leave small signal carrying wires "untouched" if at all possible.

Happy motoring,

Fred (Phred)



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 14:19:29 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Idle Speed Motor

How does one (me) go about checking to see if the
Idle Speed Motor is working? Does it "whirrrrr", or
pull or push something else?
Thanks,
Chuck
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint
1986 F150 six banger (Hers)


------------------------------

From: "Kevin Tansey" achs.org>
Subject: Re: Pinstriping Removal?
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 17:59:40 -0800

As another added thing to this, what about the FORD sticker on the back of
the tailgate? I want my truck to have as clean lined a look as possible and
want to shave everything off, it's a `95 F150 XL r/c s/b with midnight blue
metallic paint and a matching tanno cover. The FORD stickers are
individual, in the top right corner, they look like they'd be easy to take
off, but if I took em off would they leave any residue, the truck has 106k
miles on it, but the paint looks brand new, especially since I waxed it
yesterday ;p.

Long story short-will it look like shit if I take em off or what? I dont
want any residue or paint variation, I want it to look like a blank
tailgate...

-Kevin


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 18:12:23 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: EGR vacuum question

On my F150 4.6L, if I put a put my hand vacuum pump to the
EGR valve, shouldn't it hold the vacuum? I am trying to trace
down the cause of a high idle condition (1200RPM) and am
about out of ideas. My EGR does not hold a vacuum nor does
it cause the motor to idle down at all when vacuum is applied.
Help is greatly appreciated in this matter. I have to get it smogged
so that I can get it out of the garage entrance.
Thanks,
Chuck


------------------------------

From: Scrangler83aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 22:48:19 EST
Subject: Re: Pinstriping Removal?

Paint variation is nearly certain, tho your paint may look good, i work in a
auto body shop and see these things taken off all the time, doesnt take long
for there to be a difference,

Just my experience

Tom

------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #48
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