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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Tue, 28 Mar 2000 21:54:45 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 21:54:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #47
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Mon, 27 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 047

In This Issue:
ADMIN: Mail storage
Fw: performance mods for 1996 F-150
Re: Broken Crossmember
MSD Fred Thank you
plans for my 90
E4OD - take control of TC lockup????
Re: MSD & Spark plugs comments
Re: Clutch linkage
Re: Clutch linkage
Re: Popping Sound in Steering Gear - 94 F150
ADMIN: Nascar Craftsman Truck Series forum added
Re: Clutch linkage
FS: Ford Dually Alloy Wheels For Sale
Re: New List Member
Tranny "shuddering"....
Re: Tranny "shuddering"....
Re: Tranny "shuddering"....
graffiti removal
torque conv. draining
Re: graffiti removal
Re: MSD & Spark plugs comments, and comments...
Water injection
MSD with Ford TFI
94' Tune-Up
Re: 94' Tune-Up
Re: 94' Tune-Up

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 21:23:28 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Mail storage

Many of the people with ford-trucks.com or ford-trucks.net accounts
are either not checking their mail or in the case of ".com" addresses,
not having their mail software delete the messages after retrieval.

This situation is getting out of control, with half the mail queue
space being taken up by mail 3-9 weeks old. This weekend, I will be
installing software that will delete all mail over 3 weeks old. FTE
is not meant for online storage of mail.


------------------------------

From: "Chris G" sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Fw: performance mods for 1996 F-150
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 20:24:48 -0600



----- Original Message -----
From: Chris G
To:
Cc:
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 4:37 PM
Subject: performance mods for 1996 F-150


I have a 1996 Ford F-150 with a 5.8L auto, I was wondering if there is anyone out there that could give me some advise on what performance modifications I can make without adversely affecting my gas milieage.


Thanks for your time. dfrey14 hotmail.com


------------------------------

From: BanksRVA aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 22:39:26 EST
Subject: Re: Broken Crossmember

Hey folks, I have a broken front cross member on a 1985 F150 4x4. Can it be
replaced by any F150 cross member or does it have to be from a 4x4?
Thanks,
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 21:56:01 -0700
From: Andrew Antipas sopris.net>
Subject: MSD Fred Thank you

To Fred Moreno,

Thanks for all the answers to my questions. A couple of follow up
questions on part No. 8778. If I understand correctly this timing retard
unit works with the 6A box. I found my installation instructions and
noticed the two methods of installation with the Dura-Spark ignition.
Any advantages to one method than the other?

Again, thank you for all the information!

Regards,

Andy


------------------------------

From: "Vic" webdigs.com>
Subject: plans for my 90
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 23:05:02 -0600

I've got a 90 long bed I think I've decided to keep as a tow vehicle for my
race car and trailer (about 4500lbs), and for back-up daily driving.

I'm planning on installing one of the Ford 351 crate truck engines selling
for about $2200 complete (currently its a 302).

I'm trying to decide on either a 2/4 or a 3/5 drop. I've heard I can do a
2/4 with just springs and shackles, but a 3" drop in front will take an
i-beam swap. DJM sells a 3/5 kit for about $300 - seems a little cheap. As
for 5 in the rear I can go a combination of leaf springs and shackles or an
axle flip - but will the flip kit require me to notch the frame rails? I'll
also need to beef up the suspension because towing the trailer right now
makes the rear sag a good bit. What should I do here?

Finally, any recommendations on roll pans? just want something simple and
nice fitting.

Thanks for any advice.

-Vic
www.webdigs.com/autophile


------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" pdq.net>
Subject: E4OD - take control of TC lockup????
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 23:11:14 -0600

I remember from some time back, a way to have control over the TC via a
toggle switch.
Memory (BAD) says the wire is green??? And does it just get interupted, or
does one side go to ground?
I would like to isolate the TC in the Beast as the cause of the shudder!!!!

Thanks in Advance!!!!

Dave H.
Houston
90 F-350 Crew LB 7.3 (the Beast)
91 F-150 SC LB 5.8 (Dads)
92 F-150 SC SB 5.0 (my work truck, to be sisters)


------------------------------

From: "Moe Gendron" ev1.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 23:51:21 -0600
Subject: Re: MSD & Spark plugs comments

Well Heck,
I have a MSD ignition system that I bought from
Tommie Vaughn Ford a year ago, Installed it and the truck ran for
6000mi. and then quit. The MSD box (module 6A) died and is out of
warranty, of course. I had to get a new one from Ford, another
$168+tax. Can I have my old one repaired? It would be nice to keep
one handy for another 6000mi.:-) I'm sorry, I'm just disappointed. I
installed this box when I did my 300/6 to 302HO crate motor that
came with a DuraSpark 2 dist. Can't be wired wrong, bought the
Ford wiring harness and Hi-Energy coil and it all plugs together 1
way. (only a ground and 12vdc wire to hook up)
What should my plug gap be? Is it OK to use the
Motorcraft plugs that came with it? I have some Accell plugs in now
and gapped at 44, and not impressed, what is the best plug to use in
this motor? I have a new AFB on top of a RPM performer manifold.
If it makes any difference.

Thanks,
Moe
911T
85 F150
89 Maxima
Houston

------------------------------

From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" home.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch linkage
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 05:27:35 -0600

Chris,
Closer inspection will reveal the pedal arm and rod to be worn from metal to
metal contact. It's a poor design and Ford knows it.You can replace bushings
all day and they'll just keep breaking, till you replace the pedal arm,
bushing and rod. Less than $100 at your local Ford parts counter. It's a TWO
beer job for a Stepper 8^>

Smeck


----- Original Message -----
From: Mahaffey, Chris M ch.etn.com>

> I'm having a problem which I know was addressed before but I don't
remember
> the solution. Hopefully one of you will and can share it with me. The
> plastic bushing which attaches the clutch pedal to the rod in the master
> cylinder is worn out. This happened to me once before and I replaced the
> bushing which solved the problem for about a year. I seem to remember
> someone replacing some other parts of the linkage in addition to the
bushing
> but I don't remember which parts it was. Which parts probably need to be
> replaced, how much should they cost, and how difficult are they to
install?
> (The truck is a 92 F150.)
>
> Thanks
> Chris



------------------------------

From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" home.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch linkage
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 05:43:07 -0600

P.S. This is a SAFETY ISSUE so don't put it off. If you'r stopped (in gear,
engine running) and the rod pops off the clutch pedal arm, the truck might
jump forward someone could get hurt!

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Schmeckpeper home.com>

> Chris,
> Closer inspection will reveal the pedal arm and rod to be worn from metal
to
> metal contact. It's a poor design and Ford knows it.You can replace
bushings
> all day and they'll just keep breaking, till you replace the pedal arm,
> bushing and rod. Less than $100 at your local Ford parts counter. It's a
TWO
> beer job for a Stepper 8^>
>
> Smeck
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mahaffey, Chris M ch.etn.com>
>
> > I'm having a problem which I know was addressed before but I don't
> remember
> > the solution. Hopefully one of you will and can share it with me. The
> > plastic bushing which attaches the clutch pedal to the rod in the master
> > cylinder is worn out. This happened to me once before and I replaced
the
> > bushing which solved the problem for about a year. I seem to remember
> > someone replacing some other parts of the linkage in addition to the
> bushing
> > but I don't remember which parts it was. Which parts probably need to
be
> > replaced, how much should they cost, and how difficult are they to
> install?
> > (The truck is a 92 F150.)
> >
> > Thanks
> > Chris



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 07:58:01 -0600 (CST)
From: Russell Hunter hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Popping Sound in Steering Gear - 94 F150

I'm beginning to think that's a possibility. I can feel the knock in the
coil spring and in the spring retainer bracket. It still feels strongest on
the gear housing but it could be transmitting it there. I'm going to try
clamping a piece of rubber between the gear housing and frame to try and
isolate it.

Is the standard procedure for replacing frame rivets to replace it with a
grade 8 bolt?

Thanks,

Russ

>Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 20:07:43 -0600
>From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
>Subject: Re: Popping Sound in Steering Gear - 94 F150
>
>Sounds like frame rivets to me.
>
>At 26-03-00 19:29, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>
>>I have a 94 F150 that has developed a sharp metallic knock or popping sound
>>that is coming from the steering gear. The truck has power steering with
>>72k miles on the truck. The sound occurs when turning the steering wheel



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 09:00:49 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Nascar Craftsman Truck Series forum added

A "Nascar Craftsman Truck Series" forum has been added to
the web site message boards. In addition being a place for
you to discuss the races, I'll also be posting Ford truck
series press releases there.

Ken Payne
Admin




------------------------------

From: "Mahaffey, Chris M" ch.etn.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch linkage
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 09:01:32 -0500

Smeck:

Thanks for the reply about the clutch.

Chris


------------------------------

From: BobTunnell aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 10:55:08 EST
Subject: FS: Ford Dually Alloy Wheels For Sale

I thought I'd try one more time before wholesaling these.

The fronts and outer rears are Ford factory (Alcoa) alloys and the inner
rears are Ford factory steel wheels (typical setup).
- 16" x 6"
- standard Ford 8-bolt pattern
- lug nuts are not included
- tires not included
- highly polished (virtually chrome-like)
- excellent condition

You can see a photo of them at www.tunnellracing.com.

The following information is stamped inside the alloys:
FORD (logo) 16x6K DOT-T A 100395 F4TA-1007-HA

I recently purchased a set of alloy wheels for my "Brand X" dually and,
although these are much nicer than what I just bought, all I really care
about is getting what I just spent.

First offer over $550 takes them and I'll include UPS Ground shipping
anywhere in the US. (Can accept credit cards under certain conditions; write
me for info.)

Bob Tunnell
bobt tunnellracing.com
bobtunnell aol.com

------------------------------

From: Awfanning aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 12:18:33 EST
Subject: Re: New List Member

Ted wrote:

< that others may have done..especially in the creature comforts.>>

The best interior mod I ever made was to replace the factory bench seat with a couple of bucket seats from an early '70's BMW. I'd picked these up when they were nearly new and lugged them around for years before using them, but only now are they starting to show their age.

I used a spare set of factory seat mounts to bolt to the floorpan, 1x2 rectangular tubing on top of that as a spacer, and 1x1 square tubing from side-to-side to create mounting points for the BMW seat tracks. Best part? When the wife's driving, my knees don't bang against the dashboard.

Alan
San Jose
'82 F150 S'Cab, 4.9l



------------------------------

From: Oohgnsaol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 12:49:52 EST
Subject: Tranny "shuddering"....

In regards to the transmission "shudder" when shifting. I was also starting
to develop this dreaded problem on my 96 F150 302/auto. At first I thought
it was uneven road surface until I noticed that it always happened at 40-45
mph. A real faint feeling. Well, it was time for a fluid change anyway
so.... I dropped the pan, drained the torque converter and replaced the
filter. Refilled with synthetic. Shifts smooth as a bayb's bot***. No
complaints but I only did it last weekend. A couple of other points.

1) I had a heck of a time getting the pink "seal" off of the housing since
it didn't come off with the filter. Careful application of needle nose
pliers solved this (as well as about an hour on my back.

2) The manual says about 18 qts of fluid for the whole system. I have a
stock "tow package" cooler (but I didn't blow the lines or cooler with
pressure). I used about 14.5 qts when all was said and done (could have
saved myself some trouble if I had asked Wayne first and just added the
appropriate amount).

3) I'm curious about the "add a drain plug" to your tranny pan that is for
sale in the Jeg's catalog. Anyone try this? Any thoughts good or bad? It
sure would be easier to get that pan off next time if it didn't have 3 qts of
fluid in it.

4) One final point. My tranny fluid looked good on the dipstick. However,
once I got it out into the plastic jugs it was obviously much darker than the
new fluid. I knew it was time to have it changed anyway so it didn't matter.
Anyway, don't trust the color of the fluid on the dipstick.

The bottom line. Total cost was about $30 for the filter from Ford. Found
the synthetic fluid for about $2.50 a qt. Invested a couple of hours of
time. Before doing anything else, change the fluid.

Tom in Phoenix

------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 13:49:14 EST
Subject: Re: Tranny "shuddering"....

I installed a B&M drain plug in my C-6 auto (don't have a Jeg's to see what
you're referring to) and was (am) very disappointed with it. It's very
cheesy. I knew It wouldn't drain the pan completely no matter where I
mounted it, but after a few heating/cooling cycles it loosened up. And, I
had used the permanent Loctite for the peace of mind that the threads
wouldn't back out. The threads didn't loosen up, it was the cheepo gaskets
that seals the assembly to the pan that changed shape/size. It doesn't drip
on the ground while it's parked or anything, but it's always wet around it
and behind it from blow-back. Next time I have the pan off, I'm going to
weld a bung on the pan..... at the time a little voice in my head was telling
me I was taking a short cut that I might later regret, but it had a well
known brand name on it - so what could possible go wrong?? Oh well, live and
learn.
Alex

<< 3) I'm curious about the "add a drain plug" to your tranny pan that is
for
sale in the Jeg's catalog. Anyone try this? Any thoughts good or bad? It
sure would be easier to get that pan off next time if it didn't have 3 qts
of
fluid in it. >>

------------------------------

From: jrnoakes texas.net>
Subject: Re: Tranny "shuddering"....
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 13:07:18 -0600

Fellow truckers,

My wife used to drive a '94 Thunderbird with the auto trans with overdrive
(can't remember the number). At about 85/90K miles I started to notice
the shudder at 35-40 MPH. I had the u-joints, and drive shaft checked..no problem.
I started poking my nose around the internet and found this problem to be
common among Thunderbirds and Cougars of the early to mid 90's.
Basically what I found was that Ford admitted that the temp. of the trans.
fluid would rise to the point where the viscosity would break down...just a
design flaw. The BEST solution was to replace the torque converter with an
aftermarket model. The most COMMON solution was to add an aftermarket
transmission cooler and to change the trans fluid every 5K miles with Mercon
V. It was also recommended that you install an extra-capacity trans fluid pan
with a drain plug (BMG). After changing the fluid every 5K miles and trying
all sorts of additives...the trans pretty much gave out at about 115K. So,
after dealing with the transmission, three bad driver's side electric window
motors, a re-occurring AC problem and fading paint, I fixed the problem
permanently by driving a '99 VW Passat underneath it. I love the VW,
but do I ever miss the 4.6L V8.

Just my $.02 worth.

Justen Noakes
San Antonio, TX
jrnoakestexas.net



-----Original Message-----
From: Oohgnsaol.com [SMTP:Oohgnsaol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 11:50 AM
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Tranny "shuddering"....

In regards to the transmission "shudder" when shifting. I was also starting
to develop this dreaded problem on my 96 F150 302/auto. At first I thought
it was uneven road surface until I noticed that it always happened at 40-45
mph. A real faint feeling. Well, it was time for a fluid change anyway
so.... I dropped the pan, drained the torque converter and replaced the
filter. Refilled with synthetic. Shifts smooth as a bayb's bot***. No
complaints but I only did it last weekend. A couple of other points.

1) I had a heck of a time getting the pink "seal" off of the housing since
it didn't come off with the filter. Careful application of needle nose
pliers solved this (as well as about an hour on my back.

2) The manual says about 18 qts of fluid for the whole system. I have a
stock "tow package" cooler (but I didn't blow the lines or cooler with
pressure). I used about 14.5 qts when all was said and done (could have
saved myself some trouble if I had asked Wayne first and just added the
appropriate amount).

3) I'm curious about the "add a drain plug" to your tranny pan that is for
sale in the Jeg's catalog. Anyone try this? Any thoughts good or bad? It
sure would be easier to get that pan off next time if it didn't have 3 qts of
fluid in it.

4) One final point. My tranny fluid looked good on the dipstick. However,
once I got it out into the plastic jugs it was obviously much darker than the
new fluid. I knew it was time to have it changed anyway so it didn't matter.
Anyway, don't trust the color of the fluid on the dipstick.

The bottom line. Total cost was about $30 for the filter from Ford. Found
the synthetic fluid for about $2.50 a qt. Invested a couple of hours of
time. Before doing anything else, change the fluid.

Tom in Phoenix
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 11:30:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Christopher Funk darkwing.uoregon.edu>
Subject: graffiti removal

Hello all
Much to my dismay I awoke this morning to find that someone had "tagged"
my truck. It looks like normal permanent marker on the front fender. Any
ideas or suggestions for removing this?

Thanks
Andrew Funk


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 13:35:01 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp angelo.edu>
Subject: torque conv. draining



dropped the pan, drained the torque converter and replaced the
filter. Refilled with synthetic.

How did you drained the torque converter? And how do you refill?

I'm having that problem also.

TIA
Larry


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 15:35:20 -0500
From: Martin Horne optonline.net>
Subject: Re: graffiti removal

At 11:30 AM 3/28/00 -0800, you wrote:
>Hello all
>Much to my dismay I awoke this morning to find that someone had "tagged"
>my truck. It looks like normal permanent marker on the front fender. Any
>ideas or suggestions for removing this?
>

If it is "Normal" permanent marker Ronsonol Lighter Fluid (in the yellow
container, aka Naptha) will normally work. Usual disclaimers apply, try on
inconspicuous area etc. etc. Mineral spirit can also be used on most paints
without damage. I'd try the lighter fluid first.

Martin Horne
'86 Bronco
Long Island, NY

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 06:51:05 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: MSD & Spark plugs comments, and comments...

Hi Phred,

Thanks for the comments on the ford site. They were not indicating what system
was being used. If this list is anything to go by then nobody is going in to bat
for it !! .....
and if your anything like me, then being dressed in Pink is not a kodak moment
.....

I was looking for an SVO parts catalog and ended up at ford.com. Any pointers ??

.... But I'm having fun in a Ford, 351 Cleveland on LPG & Water Injection ....
what a Blast!!

regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

Fred Moreno wrote:

> And to the OZ-Man himself, considering that Ford has the GFI system on
> their OEM environmental fuel vehicles, I would rather wear pink. The system
> is not reliable, I am dissappointed that Ford would even consider such a
> system, but it happened. Ask about their sales of such vehicles, I bet its
> not much at all. However Ford does plan on giving the Bi-Phase system a try
> in Mexico this year or next (not sure exactly when). That will be the system
> to have.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 16:22:49 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp angelo.edu>
Subject: Water injection

... But I'm having fun in a Ford, 351 Cleveland on LPG & Water Injection ....
what a Blast!!


Where can I get information on this water injection.
I'd heard something on water injection back years ago. just an experiment.
Do they have something out on the market now?

TIA

Larry





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 18:07:14 -0500 (EST)
From: Dave Borkman gsosun1.gso.uri.edu>
Subject: MSD with Ford TFI


Hi all - The recent talk of MSD and increased MPG leads me to this
question. In the garage I have a 2-3 year old MSD-5 box that was on a Jeep
I bought. For some reason I thought that the MSD-5 would not work with the
TFI ignition system (in my 87 f-150, 300 6cyl). I have no literature with
the unit so I don't know for sure...

So, do any of you know if the MSD-5 ignition box will work with TFI
ignition system? Any potential to damage the stock ignition by testing the
MSD-5 with the TFI?

Thanks for any input,
Dave Borkman
1987 F150, 300 6 cyl
Narragansett, RI


------------------------------

From: "shannon hoyt" hotmail.com>
Subject: 94' Tune-Up
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 00:17:37 GMT

Okay guys, I have just read the last 4 posts, and all I seem to understand
is that everyone talks like politicians when it comes to explaining answers
to questions.
I just replaced the distributer on my 94' F-150, 4.9L, I-6. I also cleaned
up some corosion that was inside two of the plug wires. Aside from a
possible performance set of Plug wires, " What is the best Spark Plugs, to
put back in this truck?" True I worry about Mileage and performance, So what
is the best brand, style, type, etc. The name please?
I found these problems ( Corrosion and such ), when my truck wasn't starting
whenever it rained or moisture was present. I found the wires to be bad when
I pulled them from the old distributer and the tops of plugs I just checked
and found to be rusty and some corroded also.

The 94' in Iowa,
Shannon Hoyt
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 16:24:41 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: 94' Tune-Up

At 12:17 AM 3/29/00 +0000, you wrote:
>Okay guys, I have just read the last 4 posts, and all I seem to understand
>is that everyone talks like politicians when it comes to explaining
>answers to questions.

Now Shannon, I have not seen one lie posted to this list yet....


Chuck Sanborn FCA# 07175
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint, 289 w/351W heads, etc
86 F150 300 cu in six banger (Hers)


------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 21:55:06 EST
Subject: Re: 94' Tune-Up

In a message dated 03/28/2000 05:18:49 PM Mountain Standard Time,
securluvhotmail.com writes:

<<< I just replaced the distributer on my 94' F-150, 4.9L, I-6. I also
cleaned
up some corosion that was inside two of the plug wires. Aside from a
possible performance set of Plug wires, " What is the best Spark Plugs, to
put back in this truck?" True I worry about Mileage and performance, So what
is the best brand, style, type, etc. The name please? >>>

I'm sure, from reading your post, that you'd like a hard and fast answer to
this (and all) questions... dream on. Ask what the "best" of anything is
and you're going to get a variety answers. (of course, the "best" truck is
still a Ford) I use non-resistor Autolite plugs in everything. There may be
''better'' plugs for different applications, but overall Autolite delivers
consistency and reliability. (opinion) Unless there is a problem indicated, I
recommend staying with the recommended heat range.
Just out of curiosity, why did you have to replace the distributor on your
'94? I've seen them go over 250,000 miles in the 300 cube six-bangers
without a problem.
Alex

------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #47
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